Careless

oh. hehe. i didnt read that part. good thing you're around

not sure if the z ecu is a layered PCB, but if it is, you're not gonna get anywhere with a cracked PCB. on layered Printed Circuit Boards, there are traces (small flat wires) sandwiched between the layers. they basically make a board that would be 4 times the size become much more compact. dont know if you know, but if the Z one is not like that, then forget i said anything, and you could be ok.

im participating in hosting a drift event today and there are all kinds of engines today at the track. skylines, 240's, GTR's, 350z's. I'll get some specs

yah notching the underside of the block shouldnt be too much of a deal. but i wouldnt do it with an angle grinder like some custom hobby shops do. i know someone personally, with a 400 crank in a 350 SBC. the thing hauls ass, but now he's suffering from some major problems, relating to probably the rotating assembly being balanced for a 400 instead of a 350, and it's thrashing the block really bad. and if it is cracked, it's probably cracked where most of his webbing was grinded off so that the rods would clear the 400 rotating circle. correct me if im wrong guys.. but wouldnt you have to hone the cylinders really well to get this to actually work, as the stroke is increased, BDC is now further down the cylinder, and the cylinder walls are of unscored metal further down into the engine, so wouldn't that cause for some overly worn rings as it travels further in it's rotation!? so if and when it comes up back to TDC, the rings would then be scored to the point where they're tightly fit at the bottom, and loose at the top. or do you just get by this with a tiny little bore and oversized rings

i was ready to come in this thread and assume someone jumped the gun on the number 5 key on their keyboard. but this is good info. more.. MORE!

i was just wondering about this. what kind of numbers and performance specs are people seeing. how does the engine respond well to a very high compression and high revs. i'd imagine some valvetrain work would be needed. whats they likes?! selling off all the turbo **** on the imported engines could pay for virtually evreything that you need to do the job. or close to it, atleast.

12 point?... jeez!!! lol i love the way you think =) anyways, in regards to colour, here is an example of how you may want to decide what you might consider as a good colour, seeing as your car is going to be the best of the best in terms of time and effort. when i was drawing a Z on paper the other month, i decided to colour it when i was done, and i spilled limeade (its the Lime version of Lemonade) on the paper, and it turned the paper a aqua green. so i coloured the entire car green, and then i said "hey, that colour is ******* awesome!" (not the aqua, but the colour i picked)... so i coloured it green, added black MSA carbon flares, and put some oldschool wheels with huuuuuuuuuge dish. and i thought to myself "that looks like an old steam locomotive from the 1930's" so i decided to add some pinstripes to the side, just very subtle, no fast and the furious superhero stuff. just a small thin golden line. and then i painted the wheels gold. and i added "Z-GTR" at the rear quarter, in a style of letter that you would see on an old train from the 30's. I later changed the lettering to RB26, or RB30, as i figured most trains have numbers instead of all letters. so it was quite fitting. in the end i decided it was really cool because the car will pull like a train, have the moving power of a train, and probably sound like one too when in boost. so, basically that's the theme i decided for my future Z when i get it. your thread is an inspiration to my future project =D so yah, back to my point. don't just pick a colour. pic a colour theme. down the line you're gonna realize that some stuff wont fall into place because of parts that you choose that might not look right if painted one colour because of parts that re adjacent to it. soooooooooooooooooooo... plan out more of the car, not just body panels. my 2 cents.

best thread ever.

is there a reason why you're secretive?

one of my best pics. all on film too! digital is too far out of reach for me as of yet.

hmm. i had no idea. precisely why i asked.

hehe, thanks for the heads-up the engine was running in the corolla already, prior to being pulled in favour of chassis rebuilding. you may know the owner if you're on DoriKaze or Club4AG. dysfunctional: here's a pic i took on at an event we held. it was one of the last pics of the day.

hehe. sorry dood =) foh-givaness, pleez ummm. i wont be getting a Z for a while. im just here for the info for now. i will be interested in a RB30 though when i do get the flow to pick one up, and i'll probably contact you. i could, however, contact my cousin in australia to send it somehow =/ and i dont think it would require all of what you had typed out. maybe they can send air shipping, which would arrive somewhere closer to me. isnt that possible.?!

might wanna change some info on the R34 Z-Tune it has a 500 hp output with a 389ftlbs torque rating. it also covers a 10.1 in the quarter mile, not a 13.1 like the standard R34. this is due, in part, to the firewalls in the car being replaced with dry CF parts, and various parts being borrowed from the JGTC 500 class cars, like the front fenders. example. the rear trunk wall weighs 14.2 kilos on the original R34. it has been knocked down to 2.2 kg with carbon fibre replacement. also, the z-tune uses a special Phase Z2 rb26 engine that has all parts from the nismo catalogue, and a superior lightweight rotating assembly that is handbuilt/installed by their top mechanics. it is also only available in the 20 some odd z-tunes that were made. they were customer cars that nissan had been keeping an eye on with service history records at select dealerships. they offered up cash to buy back the cars from the owners, right after the period in which the engine was well seasoned. all the Z2 phase engines they stripped from the cars they recovered were rebuilt and put back to factory spec before being beefed up. truly awesome car i think it's also the only GTR you can buy in the US, being 175 thousand US dollars. not quite sure though, as there would have been no crash tests done.

engine is from a MR2 with a distributor ignition supercharged 4agze going into Jover's 1985 ae86 corolla, from Driftstar.com him and I are building the car.

im building one for a 4AGZE . which VG30 engine are you using it for?

yew rocks!

Oo0o0ohhh Ohh!! pull a rabbit out of your hat, pweeze !!1!shift+one!

if thats the case, would it be a good idea to just cut the original pan and flatten it out for use with the S30's steering rack setup, and then weld on a sort of bung that would allow the sump to connect directly to the oil galley that syphon's the oil all the way to the head? also. not too sure about this, but does the RB26 have oil squirters for the underside of the pistons? if so, then oil would eventually leak down back into the pan, and sooner or later the external oil supply would gradually fill up the entire shaved pan ,and leave the head with nothing to glide with, and would cause a catastrophe. what's the ideal way?

more info please? a lightly ported and nicely polished 26 head should flow enough to get that sucker really full. that would mean business for the 8cyl guru's round these parts.

any idea how much shipping for an engine like that would be to canada? ust one engine. whichever one is better to use with the RB26 head.