Careless

blueovalz, may i suggest a wide bolstere'd seat for the driver, and a less obtrusive one for the passenger? just like the 350z seats... the driver one is a tad different because in their ad campaign, they had said "it's all about the driver"

hey what media blasting did you do? walnut shell? glass bead? plastic? looking to do the same over the winter. and how much did it cost for the primer and the sandblast. thanks =) great work

man that smells. i liked your cage, but that's why my friend had his cage done at a shop. im gonna go check his out and copy the plans then do'er mahsulf! what is this "book" you speak of... i'd like to get my hands on it. i assume it's scca regulation manual? i still love you and all your zee-ness, even though you had to cut her up once again !!

nazar i pm'd you but no one seems to get my pm's for some reason. what wheels are those? i love them. is it your car that is running the carbon ZG flares that i see on every website? i notice they are the same wheels. nevermind, i noticed they are centerline thrusters (Nice!!!) and they are not the same as the wheels in the carbon zg flare pic, but similar!

after reading the entire RB30 thread on SAU, i've come to the conclusion that the crank colar is somewhat tapered on R32 GTR and VL C rb blocks. they taper ever so slightly, and allow only about 1/8th of an inch seating area on the pump drive or whatever it is you would call that circular provision with the flat spots on it. the drive ends up getting cut away as the smaller surface area tends to not hold up to the excessive harmonics at 6500+ rpm, due to the fact that it's not making full contact, and that there is room for vibration. also, if you change your oil pump, you will have to install some restrictors which you can make out solid brass rod that is a smidgen over 6mm in diameter. u just need to drill a hole at the proper size, directly in the center.... toss it in the freezer, and wait a couple of hours. then when you're ready to install it, you just hammer it in over top the factory restrictor. you may also need to make some restrictors that block off the two further holes completely, depending on your engine application. there are sizes from 1.5, 1.25, and 1.00 mm which you would drill into the restrictors holes that would allow only the required amount of oil to enter the head, and cause it to not overflow with the added pumping of the N1 or JUN/HKS larger blades. again, that's what i've read.... you can buy the JUN crank collar to rid the issue completely, but i hear it's an expensive part and i dont think it's made any more.

price expectancies?

is it possible to use the techtoy tuning rear strut mounts for the front instead, and forego the pillow ball mounts of a s13 coilover set and use that as a camber adjustment guide instead? or should one drill a large hole and weld up the exisiting ones, and then drill out new bolt holes just as they appear on the s13 strut tower,.... and then use the coilover's triangular shape pillow ball mounts like you would on an s13 as well? i would LOVE pics of this if you could provide them =) i have access to a gajillion million eleventy billion S13 parts that I could buy using my trade services =) one last edit: those Lca's and caster rods you made... are they the same as aftermarket s13 ones that i can get from say... kazama or cusco or some other brand? cause i can get deals on those too. and they are fully adjustable and i think they could survice a nuclear blast, they're so huge. just wondering if yours are a whole world of a difference and if aftermarket ones would suffice. pics pics pics =) I thinks we got a good thread going on here... and you can say hi to my cousins in australia for me too! OK, very last edit: is it too much to ask to keep this thread up to date with regular checkups by me, as i am getting my zee on the weekend (hopefully) and i would like to upgrade the suspension first and do whatever neccessary mods to handle the power of the engine i will be building. this IS THE FIRST thread of it's kind here, as i've looked for similar ones, but they don't deal with suspension swaps, moreso than just factory upgrades made by aftermarket, and not cross-platform... cheers to contributors.

Gasoline just posted that one. it was aired once because pretty much all the cool ZTT comercials were aired during the superbowl. once a year

have you considered using a helper spring with a coilover setup? it allows two different spring rates. the softer one would compress before the harder one takes action. usually for stability almost like adjustable shocks they use on paris dakar, only without the gas/oil and about as much as 10% of the technology involved.

you rocks! nice wheels too. how's the offset? need flares?

nice! good work man =) i love z's that are being ressurected. makes me feel special =) so where'd u get those seatbelts from!? are they part of another car or something? perhaps a nice plastic cover out of fibreglass should be in your future

just checkin out the other thread about 240sx IRS being swapped in for extra camber correction and added strength of the R200 diff, and CV axles. now im wondering about the front. I know the rear s13/14/z32 irs parts can be used in the rear when the subframe is fabbed in, but what about the front? is there any better upgrade for the standard suspension that would allow the use of the same coilovers as the rear? i mean, if i wanted to order a set of Tein EDFC's for s13/14, what would i do with the front coilovers if i were to get them as a set?? is there a way to put the front suspension onto the Z from the s13/14? what are some viable options. The intent for the car would be somewhat street driven on weekends maybe, and some light track duty when my friend holds events at which i do photography at, so i'll wanna show up in something camera ready myself that looks good through the twisties =D any ideas? If i could use the EDFC on all 4's that would probably be my most ideal setup. i like the idea of a stepper motor to control dampening.

well if thats what it takes to figure it out, then thats what it takes. are you going to be welding and molding in a panel like that to make it looks somewhat factory.

i would so turn this into a megasquirt project.

Good on you guys for posting the other commercials. There are still a ton more. My personal favourite has to be the "Black Gold" edition 280zx. It had all the flash from the 80's, it was so shitty and good. (Brown Gold?)

Now... the Z commercials of the 70's were down-right rediculous with their superhero like ad campaign and their "awesome" technical enhancement showcases... I thought they let go of that funky super-electronica technology hype back in the Mid 80's. And you know what? They did. Then they toyed with the sports car revolution theory of the Z32, and how it was the last letter in sports cars. And that campaign did well, albeit not in sales, but in attraction to the car, it sure as hell did. One thing the new campaign and redesigned model of the Z didn't do was help them get out of bankruptcy. And it is my belief that the Japanese marketing budget was probably the worst monitarily saturated resource for business. Nissan bit the bullet. Nissan's advertising head and art director in Japan probably spent their last cheque on a commercial director and script writer that actually made a living harvesting wild funghi on the side of togue hills. Probably picked a couple of poisonous mushrooms on the way too. and you'll see why after you watch this: Video No. 1 It's almost as if this guy coaxed the company into taking a page from Tron with which he would perform cold fusion to successfully mold the American salt-flat Nissan commercials with a soundtrack from Stryder from the NES. Advanced life forms which take on the aesthetics of the 8 bit Stryker sword slash turned 3-Dimensional populate the many cracks amongst the dry salty surface. I am confident in saying they're most likely top secret transportation containers disguised as pearl balls which the Deceptacons have programmed in order to deliver energone throughout the salt-flats in various locations for quick-battle consumption. Now I've seen them all. Nissan has the corniest commercials ever, and I love them for that. And when it really comes down to what I like about nissan it's commercials like the following one that make me remember why I am contemplating to join the road going crowd using one of their products. And it's commercials like the one linked below that really just wanna say... I love You, SKYLINE. Video No. 2 Enjoy the corniness as much as I did.

pics.. pics!

i noticed you said "on a z" after i finished photoshopping. so here's a file that i've made that is 3 layers. http://rapidshare.de/files/31421610/rod_psd.psd.html background (only important for background base colour fender and sill colour door reflection sorry to populate the thread with pics that aren't z's. but you can still use that file to find a nice colour combo... then i can photoshop i onto a Z

and IKEA! they're better!

question: do you know how to read compressor maps? they don't distribute compressor maps for exhaust housings, but for compressor housings, if you look at the GT30R, it seems as though it would run out of breath. Then again, the GT30R would make power sooner, but falloff would also happen sooner, which is ok, since you wouldn't have to redline every gear to squeeze power out of it. But i still think you could benefit from the extra power that the GT35R provides. is there anything in between?

right on! also, RB's suffer from a common oil starvation, or over-oiling problem with restrictors. so you're gonna have to machine up some restrictors out of 6mm+ wide brass or aluminum rod with a proper hole size, and bumping them down into the oil restrictor holes, overtop the stock restrictors, to keep oil level at a neutral height in the head, or to allow it to leak back into the sump efficiently. that is done by plumbing one of the plugs on the back of the head back down into the oil pan. RB's were made to take around 6000 - 7000 rpm. constant, so anything over that will make the oil do funny things once it reaches the cam cover area. again, a lot of info on SAU