Careless

sorry, but you must be refering to the smaller turbocharger that came on the later z31's. the one in my z can no way in hell come from the underside, as the steering shaft guard plate is in the way, and the bolts are rusted to ♥♥♥♥, and somewhat inaccessible. I managed to get the turbo up from the top side, and I know how to do it efficiently now, as long as the valve covers are off and don't get scratched (hey, i put a lot of hours into painting and repainting them!). I think if I were to have to remove the turbo and fix something and re-fit it without damaging anything, I would be able to do it, replacing all studs (if unbroken) in about 3 hours. But this time around the valve cover would most likely get dinged as the angle of attack I've found calls for having the flange of the cross-over entry on the manifold rest upon the valve cover mating surface. anyway, no point in beating a dead horse. I got it out, all that's left is the wiring for injectors and engine bits, and hoses + vacuum lines and belts. then the trans goes on. then I drive it. I love this hobby too. I love doing things like porting heads and getting things to go on and look nice. I mean, I didn't detail my engine like that just cause it was necessary. I didn't have to! But I like making things work, while looking kinda like they should work. LOL. I would have loved to shove another turbo in there, but at that point I would spend more money on a intercooler and injector upgrade. I'm not prepared to do that to this car yet. I was very limited in the way I am able to work because I can't fit an engine hoist in my garage to take out the engine, and just to lower my car off the jackstands requires removal of PLENTY of things that are in the way, just because I DID NOT forsee this rebuild going so extensively, so we moved things into the garage. so, I make due with what I'm given. And I'm a week and a half at the most away from getting this thing back on the floor with the driveshaft in, ready to go

actually, there are somewhat easier ways to remove the sensor that what the book tells you. there is actually a video on youtube! if you break the sensor that is in the head (the plastic end), and then use a 19mm socket to get it off with a u-joint socket adapter, and then use a 17mm 12 point socket on the plastic head of the new unit to install it (and don't over tighten!) it will be tight enough to get a good reading and will be done in half the time! Raff

that's what i was getting at. don't replace THAT injector. replace all of them, with bigger ones.

I'm finding that the single overhead cam RB30E had a lot of parts shared from the VG30E's, and it looks as though the RB30E dizzy has a disc much like the L28 one, with 6 slits and a 1-TDC reference slot. If you could source the RB30 disc, it may work?

RB20 and RB25 flywheels are the same, and I was told they are the ones that work if used with an RB25 clutch kit

I don't think that's how it works on these types of cars. I was told that an unmodified z31 ECU will cut out at 187 kmh, and will shut the car down, and it needs to be reset. Most of the earlier nissan cars used a speed sensor, or 5th gear speed sensor that would cut the car out at higher rpm's in 5th gear. 240sx guys usually cut the wire to the 5th gear sensor, or they run an automatic ecu in a manual equipped car to circumvent the cut-out while retaining tach and speedo function. for the Z31 and RB25, it could be related to the purple wire in the Z31 that removes the rev limiter, and work on the same principle of ecu-feedback signal wire. The SpeedCut Defender works to circumvent that by providing a stable analog signal that will not trigger the igition or fuel hard-cut.

is that your quarter mile time for this car in your sig? nice numbers

had to take the timing belt and cam gears off, and then the stud came out when the tensioner had to be removed. I thought I could rotate the cams to access the bolt holes for the rear timing plate, but i was being lazy. So it didn't work out. I had to pull it all off and use the old bolts to put it back to how it was. and then I put the tensioner back, with teflon tape around the studs. I hope it will seal well enough. I then put the belt and properly tensioned it as well (using the rear timing cover as a depth guage of sorts, and later checking with a fine ruler for proper deflection). I also put the front cover on properly, and I layed the rocker arm setup + lifters onto the passenger side head, all cleaned up with fine #0000 steel wool, which brings it to a nice shine. Then I put some assembly lube on all the parts and plopped them onto the valve train. I hope to get both sides torqued by tomorrow, and the valve covers on for good. Then it's just a matter of intake, piping, accessories + wiring, and the trans. Wish me luck! shooting for dec 14!!!!!!!!!!

don't replace that injector! 400+ whp will require some 500cc's to be safe. Nice 87. I am almost done putting mine back together. Do yourself a favour and take the engine out completely! check out my thread for some small details http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141122&page=2

I think you're being too aggressive in your posting. I posted the module installation page to show that it's possible, and with the current version of vBulletin installed, it's somewhat of a simple process... But there is something you don't seem to understand. there are posts in here starting from 2001. If you have to back up nearly a decade of pictures/ posts/ pdfs/ manuals/ and other information.... ...YOU NEVER EVER EVER EVER install something on a well established and widely used (600 users online at a time) forum without backing up COMPLETELY to the hour before running an update like this. Small or large. There are some updates that clash with what HybridZ team has currently installed into the server's posting management interface. ...DO NOT rush them. this is something that has to be done along with OTHER updates and in an orderly fashion. When the time comes, there will be more than one update to the site at one time to facilitate a good server load status and not overload the server or the back-up device used by doing an update then backup, then update, then back up, repeat, repeat, repeat. It's stupid. ...BE PATIENT. there is more involved than you know. anyone who tells you any different probably has nowhere near even 100 members on their forum and almost 10 years of information to back up.

That looks like a great kit. I'm, once again, glad to see hybridz making solid people/people connections and parts adaptation easier and more attainable for everyone.

That was my reason for the question. The Turbo sound like it got a nice jolt of exhaust fumes to wake it up, and I wondered if it were button activated. I figured it had to be small, seeing your unassisted numbers from before... If it were running something bigger it would have not been "just" 1000 whp, that's for sure.

I hope I don't catch flak from the mods for this. when you guys are ready, perhaps I can assist. http://www.vbulletin.org/forum/showthread.php?t=151714

was this run bottle assisted?

that's gotta be one of the best 240z dyno vids of all time!

I really don't see the need for oil restrictors either. I mean, there already is one in there... and perhaps just chamfering the drain holes on the block deck and making sure the head gasket holes have clearance and do not inhibit drain back would be sufficient, and if you're still worried about oil pooling up in the head and causing loss of oil in the sump, add half a little more oil, it's not that much and would probably still be below the windage tray. of course. drysump system would be the bees kneez in this discussion!

meh! brazing works for me! looks like something i would have fun trying.

Ahhh. seems like a bitch to do. But I guess it's worth a shot if you got the time, seeing as you did it and I don't feel stupid for being the one to come up with some off-the-wall idea... at least one other person has attempted it! LOL I think if I were to do it... I would mark it as you said, and find the middle of each hole and drill through there with the smallest bit at a very high speed with some cutting oil and light pressure. then use electrical component and surface mount snips to cut the remaining to the left and right of the hole very carefully, and then clean the inside top and bottom of the holes with some machinist files by positioning the disc on a piece of wood with a hole in it. center the disc hole over the wood hole and file slowly. the wood will stop it from vibrating while filing which would make it hard to do properly. so you're saying even though it's hard it's not entirely impossible to get it to work well?

looks great. I would have no problem sporting one of those if I needed one! I bet that thing would not break with the insert tubes, and it looks like a clean modification. would it be just as effective as long as the inserts that are in there were present, even if MIG'd? I'm not sure how hard that steel is to weld. never tried.

lemme know when this happens.

ahhhh. i got it. find out how many slits per AEM hole. start where AEM's leading hole starts and cut out the Z31 slits so they are the same size. (they should be 5 slits wide, with 10 slit gap, and then 5 slits open again, and then 10 slit gap) using precision cutting tool, cut the slits to size, then JB weld the remaining gaps that have smaller slits in between. clean the falling and leading edges of the new larger holes, and there you have it. I THINK this would work. It would take time, but it should be identical to AEM's wheel. Of course not a lot of people would take the time to do that. I could see myself watching a movie I already watched (cause i wouldnt be entranced by the screen!) and doing it over the dialogue. It would happen so quick this way. LOL

could you somehow cover the holes on the Z31 cas wheel to mimic the AEM ones?

So if I ran an RB26 head on my RB30 with an oil drain mod, total seal gapless rings so that there is no blow-by (it's N/A, do I really need it?!) no restrictor, and an increased volume / pressure oil pump... could there be any side affects, and on which side of the sum should it return? EDIT: is this what we're looking at here (except the feed line for the blow-by release would be above the oil level, and not below it)

congrats to the Ruschmans!... bet you weren't expecting to see this thread in the future 20 years ago! what a Rusch!

thanks max no talking about cranks and bikes. the bike I ride to work sounds like the bearings are munched in the crank, so at any time during my trips to work it could seize on me. SHHHHHHHHHHH! as for my engine Today I installed the missing exhaust stud nut for the cross pipe, the coolant tube at the back of the lower intake, and the injectors + fuel rail are back on and fastened with new lower seals. I had to remove the lower intake passenger rear bolt (which was torqued to spec) and then put it over the tab that comes down from the injector rail. Didn't notice it at first. I think it will be ok, I fastened the bolt down after with just my ratchet and no torque wrench. Hopefully it will be ok, it's one of the outer bolts, and the last one I tightened anyway. I also installed my new coolant temp sensor wire, installed a new distributor o-ring, and the spark plugs so I could attempt to turn the engine over by hand and hold it while it's compressing at various states in the crank shaft rotation to hear for any hissing coming from the valve seats. Sounded ok to me, but that's not a good indicator. A compression test is definately in order. I also installed the rear cover plate for the timing belt with one bolt for now. All others can be accessed even with the timing belt on. It's a matter of turning the engine over to various positions to access the bolt holes through the cam gear and whatnot. I then installed the cam gears and torqued to spec. Installed the timing belt correctly, however, I'm not sure how or why nissan does their tentioning method like they do on the late 87's and later models. 22 lbs of force? I have a fish scale that I use to pull down on to gain adequate 22lbs. But then you need to do some stupid ♥♥♥♥ with a feeler gauge, all while holding this allen L wrench for tension, and turning the crank shaft, and looking for 15mm of deflection across the two gears and the tensioner/R.H gear. LOL sounds like a two person job. It was 2 in the morning so I stopped. I figure that is a lot to get done for one night. Now all that's left is the setting the timing belt to tension (it's all lined up), putting the distributor in, (already lined it up to check that it's 180degree in the right direction, and not reversed pointing at cyl 6.), I'll then put the timing cover, turbo inlet piping and mafs, block drains, upper valve train in stages, accessory drive with new belts, upper intake with EGR blanking plate, and then the electronics. That is my goal by Friday. Then if all goes well, I may put the transmission on during the next week, along with the starter, driveshaft, exhaust, and vacuum piping. I have 2 weeks to meet my goal, I think I'll be able to get it ready, and insure it for january. I'll be running 15w40 Rotella T for the first 100 miles, or 160ish K. then I'll get it up at the front and drain that sucker and put in my AMS 10w40 and call it a done deal! Hopefully I have time to install my braided brake lines. Once that's all done, I'll attempt to install my alarm system into it if I can solder in the sub-zero temps! I'm starting to forget what it felt like to drive this car, and it was my first car in my name that I drove (for a stinkin 10 days!) before all this stuff happened. But hopefully it lasts me for another 2 or 3 years, and I'll be happy =) I'm curious to see what my head work and my lightweigh flywheel, egr removal, and lower boost will do this time around (seeing as I removed the carburetor jet that someone shoved into the actuator vac line! I'll get a boost controller soon as well. Just not in the budget right now! It will be accompanied by a synchronic bov with an anti-stall valve. Raff