Careless

block should be resurfaced... had looks really clean... so far so good... and what's with that notch on the piston crown? is that supposed to be there on? for what reason? As for the creme carpet colour. I think the reason you may not live long is because grease stains look like doodie, and if your wife thinks you dragged a piece of doodie into the house or decided to let one lose on the carpet, you'll never see the carpet again. or more importantly, the house (whether the deed is in your name or not!). or the light of day... which ever one she can make disappear first.

Hi everyone. I bought a hayden 3647 unit, and found that the wiring for this thing on Taurus fans is NOT correct. The hayden unit is not made for a DUAL MODE setup, it is made for a DUAL FAN setup. so the taurus fan will run both motors and possibly burn up your hayden unit, your relays, or your fan motors from over-running or over-amping the coils in either of the units (since they all have coils of some type). The hayden unit's wires may take the quick shock of the motors starting amp-draw, but it will not take high-speed mode for long, as it's only a 14 or 16 gauge wire (I dunno, I returned mine). I studied and studied and made some electrical schematics for hours (8 - 10 hours) on a weekend with my father, and on the computer using TINA Pro V6, and I came up with a simple diagram that I am posting below. This diagram shows the ignition wire on the hayden unit being powered at all times, to allow for fan run-on as Dan Juday has just pointed out in the post above this one. I apologize for being almost 2 years late on this, but I haven't hard a car long enough to care for the circuit. This setup, wired with fuses where they are shown, will allow one fan to always act as a backup if the relays do not go with the fuses. What I have done myself, is returned the hayden unit, and I bought the Standard Motor Products TS189 fan switch that will turn on at 191-197 degrees F, and turn off at 181-187 degrees F. This puts it just over my OEM thermostat opening of 175, so the engine will not cycle the thermostat open and closed and cause premature wear, or will not let the engine fall below recommended operating temp. The fans should only come on when the engine is really hot, and the second relay will be hooked up to my condenser fan switch which will trigger at 212F (factory rating, as per FSM)... Alternatively, I was considering an A/C switch to power the fan to full speed immediately, but instead I would like to keep the switch independant of the A/C circuit, so I will wire in a small switch beside my stereo deck as there is a nice spot to put some switches there. I apologize for the fact that this image may not be here in a couple of months or years time when it's viewed by others, but the Hybridz Image sizes do not allow the full size of my schematic. Cheers, I hope it helps you guys, and any comments or suggestions are welcome. I took my time to explain what each of the circuit components do in relative detail to one another, while trying to keep the font readable. It prints well on an 8.5x11 with colour (but it's not needed), and it is all hand-drawn. No clip-art here... took me a bit of work, but you guys will find use from it, I'm sure. P.S, you may ask why I returned the hayden unit? well, once I figured how much wiring would be inside a box, the hayden unit got too big or the box too costly. I then did some testing with the temperature probe and it does not seem like an automotive grade unit, and I figure that running the unit close to the fan or in the radiator will cause it to cool down against the actual coolant temp of the rad due to windage from the front of the car. What I noticed from the hayden unit is that when it trickles down below the hysteresis shut-off point, the probe clicks the relays on and off VIOLENTLY (that was how mine was, sorry if it's untrue for anyone else). Almost as if it were on the edge of cool down (well, that's because it is). So I put this into perspective. Fans draw the most amperage on startup... One of the other Z31 users had a problem with a melted hayden unit or relay... This led me to believe that the rapid clicking caused the unit to burn down quickly because of the high-amp draw in rapid succession, like machine-gun fire. So That's why I switched to the Nissan Pulsar NX / Sentra sensor. I am removing the plug on the lower intake manifold of my Z31 that the 84-86 models housed the condenser fan switch within, and I'm placing the main sensor there as it is closest to the thermostat. That should be accurate enough and easy to access. The Hayden unit is tiny and it's great for dual-fan low-amperage setups though. Would by again, but possibly with the GM screw-sensor type.

did you possibly paint over a ground or not hook an engine ground up properly? loud clicking noise? is there a relay that is wired somewhere that it is not supposed to be.

Lovin' the head porting tips. I did the same, cleaned up the radii and smoothed the transitions and casting marks, and finished it off with a very fine sprout-shaped wire wheel that was used to just whisk the lines back into the smooth surface. I tried it on my Z31 heads to get used to it, and I will not be afraid to touch my RB26 head in this manner now Just gotta load yourself with a beer before taking a grinder to the first port... it's kinda nerve wracking getting used to the tool. Always have a spare block of aluminum around to chip away at for a minute or so when trying a new bit. It pays to do that and get used to the skipping or the shuddering of the bit diflection BEFORE inserting it into the costly part.

you must pull the block and at least check the bearings. and if they're out, replace them... it's like 100 bucks for a set of new big end and crank bearings. you don't need anything fancy shmancy like the 300 dollar Calico Coatings CT-1 ACL Bearings I have for my build. There are 1200 hp engines running standard nissan bearings with the RB's. Some people recommended above all others. A friend of mine just bought new edelbrock heads and intake for his 350 sbc, and then he bought a bottom end that was built by someone who worked at a GM facility of sorts. The 7th cylinder piston had a smiley on it from valve to piston contact. But he thought nothing of it as the engine turned over by hand fine. The car lost oil pressure on the highway on the way to a Camaro show about 10 days after driving it because the bearing moved a touch when the previous owners valve/piston made contact. The starter would back the bolts out with Red Loctite, the car started to get harder and harder to crank over. And it just made a lot of rumbling noise from the rear of the engine. Turns out that bearing was crushed and spun, threw a rod into the oil pan. You do not want the same thing to happen, so at the least, pull the crank, get it checked for scarring. have it micropolished if needed. replace it with bearings similar to what you had in there just now, get the head checked. And locate a set of oversized aftermarket replacement pistons of the cheaper kind. That way you can drive it conservatively at least or on less boost. They should still be able to take a pounding, and if you pull everything and just refit the block yourself, you'll looking at half the price, with the polishing and straightening of the crank and having the head rebuilt if the builder owns up to doing something wrong with the seats (if he did). You can install pistons and rods and bearings yourself. If you have the balls to drive a car at 16psi and know enough to pull the head, this may be the chance for you to refresh your skills (if you've done it before) or learn some new tricks and acquire some new tools. Plus, you get to say you took it down to the last bolt... even if it's something that you don't wanna get into right now.

man, that is the luckiest form of destruction one could possibly hope for, short of a blown head gasket and a few other minor things. Don't feel dismayed, even though you have to get the head re-checked and that guide probably needs to be pushed out and replace. It could have been far far worse.

factory parts are balanced to within a certain tolerance... 5 to 10 grams, maybe? for a performance application you want things balanced within a gram of eachother or close to that. you want to have the pistons, rods and gudgeon pins balanced as an ASSEMBLY as well... so that when balanced with the crank later, there will be no vibrations think about he differences between pistons, then between rods, and then with the pins installed. if pistons were off 5 grams, rods 5grams, and pins 3 grams, you have say... 13 grams worth of imbalance. remember, you're taking material off TWO parts. they have to be weighed. I wouldn't skip the balancing duuuuuuuuuuude!

http://www.savefile.com i would like a copy of this too, please you r0x. best deep engine analysis on L's I've seen.

PSHHHH. Jitter and I drag engines across fields with with broken rubbermaid bins and do the lift-and-toss into truck beds like nobodies business. CAUSE IT AIN'T CHO'R BUSINESS! *runs away with seat belt straps and RB30's*

as far as i've been told by a competent turbo rebuilder and turbo powered engine builder... walnut shell is ideal. it's just as abrasive as using a scotch brite pad, and in reality the scotch brite pad is actually worse due to the uneven scores of lines they leave in the surfaces you are prepping. Walnut shell leaves a consistent slight texture that can be polished with ease. It's also ideal for adding ceramic coating to, and leaves the perfect amount of bite for the ceramic coating to hold onto, so that there are no high or low spots that didn't cure properly. Those spots will break off and fly around in your engine. The Ceramic is where the polishing can be done, as ceramic coatings can be brought to a near mirror finish. The same goes with piston skirts that take oil-retention coatings... they have to be sanded lightly or blasted with walnut shell to allow the coatings to adhere deeper than the level at which your tool used for checking tolerances and clearances will be reading from. Walnut shell is safe and basically turns into dust as you blast it. And it gets finer and finer as used... so if you're REALLY concerned, just ask to use some older walnut shell that is finer (they usually keep this stuff).

have you considered RB30 rods and having them cut. I think they are same or similar to VG30 and 33 you can get some good forged rods from SPOOL, and why not, since it's gonna be a badass engine

PISTONS, WITH PIN and LOCK

no hood snout clearance issues? It might pay to dip the front down just an inch and a half or so.

probably flexes when u press the button or something.

Woah! Your caliper has an Anti-lock Braking System! good for those slip-of-the-wrist measurements! saaaahweeEeEeEeEeEeEet!

HBD from HBZ

aww shucks

lol. same here. I root for the little guy, and Nissan is my fav too.... but you can't contest with a guy who has "Nissan" in his family name and got to the end of the race first.

you should get a polishing kit for your IHS's

is 91 all you guys get? i wouldn't even bother to build a motor that well and then run off 91 if there were higher points.

Flywheel balancing uses a cool type of light-strobe that identifies the out of balance area. Crankshaft balancing uses pin-bobs that are filled with shot-peen balls to mimic the weight of your rotating assembly so that vibrations can be seen across the entire crankshaft and it's spun at the RPM you want it to be balanced to. The bob weights are static in that they do not rock back and forth like pistons on a wrist/gudgeon pin, which would throw off the weight in an atmospheric environment, whereas in an engine the rings add enough spring tension to brace them to the point where balancing with the bobs of equal rod/piston weight will closely or almost exactly mimic the weight of the engine assembled as a running unit, pistons/pins/locks/bearings and all. The latest machines use a washer/jam nut style two-sided clamp with threaded rods sticking out. Washers are stacked down onto the clamp outer face and jam-nut locked to the base. This method is supposed to be easier and quicker. If a machinist is working on time/hourly basis, it may be a good idea to check which machines they use. It makes a very noticeable difference in your bill. Harmonic Damper balancing I would imagine is done using the light-strobe method with holes drilled in the back side of the damper. All additional metal used to fill any holes if weight is to be added to a hole that has been drilled to accept a heavier metal than the host-metal is "mallory", which is expensive and is required to be a separate purchase from the machinist in most cases. It's got a good bite when press-fit and it's made of a bunch of alloys, notably tungsten in most mixtures.

mannnnnnnnn. the one that my turbo rebuilder had in the shop to do some custom work on some other things was gigantic, the base was probably the size of a full sheet of drywall and a bit, and had a huge screw drive. needed to be warmed up to operating speed on cold days because of the gigantic motor/gearing. soooo cool

did you get this thing tuned? may have cracked a ring land due to detonation and had a chunk fly into your plug.

I had a friend with a JE Piston that snapped along the gudgeon pin and did a 70 degree turn into the bore and cracked the water galleys so hard that it pushed the adjacent bores walls into the cylinder and caused the engine to go from 3000 to 0 RPM in under 5 seconds. Diagnosis was faulty piston from JE. I can't remember what the deal was but there were cracks all along the gudgeon pin bore area, and it looked as though the forging was not uniform or the pin was punched along with a twist that was in the grain. small hairline cracks sprang outwards from the line where it snapped. I'm so sad this happened to you man I know what it feels like to spend a lot of money and have something like this happen. Makes you wanna give up... but it's part of the hobby.

Take a look at http://www.nissan.com to find that out. but you shouldn't be worried. It's a totally different reason for "infringement" with the domain name issue and what you're doing here.