Careless

i like this idea.

double stack or gussets or 12 gauge

just send me a box of australian electrons, and we'll call it a day.

well when it's 0* Celsius outside and you've shoveled snow for an hour and feel like nothing on the car has been done today, it pays to see someone in the club make some progress!

it can't possibly be as bad as the main method of public transportation in the Philippines. Ever see a Jeepney?

noiiiiiiice

Would you believe I'm "Legally Blind" in my right eye too? Following the vac and dotted lines, it plumbs down to the vac lines on the turbo, behind the engine on some pipes, and back to the valve where the outlet probably goes to the boost pressure guage. My thoughts is that it equalizes the pressure reading. You may benefit from having two separate boost guages if you plan on keeping the twin setup. That would make it easier to see if a cylinder or a turbo is starting to degrade in performance

Dear Diary, JACKPOT!

the elasticity of the paint is of most importance. I'm not sure what kind of binders or hardeners are mixed in with POR15 or Rust Bullet. talk to a powder coater who sounds like he knows his stuff, rather than "sure, i'll do ya some springs! what colour ya wanna'um? Pink!?"

what "fun" would that be. I mean, I love finding rats poo and leaves drenched in oil under my lower intakes. makes my shop-vac useful!

Woah, you live right around the corner from the Delta-Quadrant. Do you know my cousins, The Borgs?

take some Circa 1895 (i think) vertical paint stripper for wood furniture, and use a dollar store paint brush and slather it on there. shove it into a garbage bag and seal the bag with a knot. come back in 5 hours and use a stainless steel brush or wire wheel on a power drill to clean the flakes off. I do that for everything I paint because the sandblaster traps too much moisture in the gun because I did not install my moisture trap. It doesn't take long and it leaves it nice and smooth. Sand blasting will leave a texture. It's the heating of the powder coat that will change the spring rate if anything!

it's the equivalent of tolerance stacking. you bore something at one size, on a certain pitch and plumb 90 degrees to something that will shift when another main part is attached to it. that's not good. specialized tools like this will reduce that amount of shift. if you feel it necessary, do it. if you don't, then the choice is yours! *queue Rush tune* if you choose not to decide, you've still have made a choice!

lol you're going to town with these parts

ATP Turbo: T3 Internally Gated Turbos @ ATP

Forgive me for saying this, but Eric has been posting updates and progress and his trials and tribulations over finding correct pistons to work for about a year and a half... and I know he's waited that long because his block has been from machine shop to incompetent machine shop throughout this whole ordeal... I have bought a set exactly like his that will work well for me because of the result of manufacturer specification errors that prevented AKWIKZ from using them as well (cancellation of project/compression too high), and that was over a year ago... so I know how long he's been at this. It's kinda too late to even bother making a comment like that, considering he asked for help a while ago and got no response. He (as well as I) have even posted on Skylines Australia, and the feedback is poor in respect to sharing info to help someone out. I mean... pistons, unless designed in-house like Engine Dynamics Roller Wave pistons are not the "underlying secret" of any build in my eyes. I just think it hurts the community, especially RB goers who are trying to get expensive parts and info from overseas without error when someone who could have saved "over complication" could have also spoke up earlier or perhaps gave a car/model/year that an off the shelf piston could come from. That's how I see it. And that's why I choose to post parts numbers when someone asks for specific parts. I've been through that, and I know how much of a bitch it is when you get the wrong parts.

nissan's gasket is 0.041 inches = roughly 1mm. there are some people seeing 500 -600 bhp on standard gaskets. And there is a "Nismo" gasket kit too.

my eyes show me a 45L00 on the sticker. what are the other 5 numbers, and I will tell you.

if you're having trouble with the heater lines, you could get some brass reduction double barbs. they are 3/4 on one side and 5/8ths on the other, as well as various other combinations. get some fuel injection #8 clamps, and it should be good for both ends. you could get some fuel injection #6 or #4 size clamps but they are so close, and the #8's can go down to the size of a #4 as far as I recall.

here is the timing chain: here is the valvetrain break down: here is the gasket set, there are different models for different years: here is the breakdown of what you get, individual parts are listed. if you need individuals, let me know by 5 digit number:

yepp. looks like I'll have to remove that front brace that gussets the mount, and I could pull it foward and out, but I still think I have to keel the engine over a touch. I'll use an old seatbelt and feed it through the passenger manifold separations and have someone pull on it while I wedge out the turbo. I think I only have to turn it 5 to 10 degrees, but with the length of the lines, it makes a big difference.

you can attribute my "slothliness" to the cold weather we're having. laying on my back on concrete in the garage with no heater for hours is enbrittling my bones. well I dunno if that's true. but it's definitely not strengthening them through cryogenics, I can tell you that much! I would do the following to do it again: 1) drain engine of fluids (maybe tranny too) 2) remove hood 3) raise engine out with a cherry picker 4) shove cinder blocks underneath engine to support it. remove manifolds with turbo, and cross pipe (remember to unbolt oil feed, unclamp oil drain and coolant feed/return lines). 5) get out a nice cobalt drill bit set and start small and work up with some GOOD (i.e. - not 20 bucks for a set of 5) extractors. 6) have the studs on the manifolds that hold the cross over pipe removed. 7) retap cross over pipe holes. 8) on the cross over pipe, there are two extensions that stick out beyond the flange, and go INTO the manifolds on both sides. Cut those down to half of their original size. 9) on the driver side, leave the top two studs in if you want. on the passenger side, remove all the studs and replace with good quality bolts and lock washers. this will allow you to remove the crossover pipe when it decides to crap out on you (and it will!). 10) then put it back together and put it back in. good luck and godspeed. i broke an extractor in one of the bolt holes and i cursed to the point of nearly picking up the head and tying it to the landlords SUV and going around the block a couple of times. by the time I was done cursing (about an hour), he had used a small chisel, a small screwdriver, and a telescoping magnet and had removed the extractor by chipping at it with a tiny hammer for an hour straight. I don't have that patience. I was going to send it to the machinist instead but he said he would do it!!!!

it should definately be threaded. that is the hole. if it's not threaded, you will have to remove the front timing cover, and tap the hole. then insert a helicoil (timesert) that fits the proper size of the coolant temperature sender.

if i were to describe it, I'd say behind the timing cover, to the right of the thermostat housing, almost directly underneath the distributor.

I assume I have to loosen the engine mount and chain the engine to the wall and pulley-block it so that it leans over well enough to move the turbo out, cause I don't see how it would come out without tilting the engine while the head is on.