Careless

tony, there is a quote button that you could use, and it shows what is being quoted when you're writing your reply. you could remove any text you would like not to be shown from the quote. and I've not had a chance to compare the mounts to the S30 cross member, I've not taken the L28 out yet. I guess you saved me some time thanks! But I wonder if it bolts to an S14 cross member... HMMMMMMMM

lol. a woeyz goey, eh!? why I oughtta! Fast swapped the numbers on me! LOOK AT THE TOP of the first pic! HONEST! When replacing the the oil pressure sender, use FAST and crossreferce, find local cars that use the same unit, and then buy a AFTERMARKET unit that will fit the same cars. Nissan units around the 90's don't seem to like Synthetic Oils for some reason. As soon as I put synthetic, my pressure guage showed like 0-20psi. and when my friend did the same in his Z32, it was constantly at 15psi, and no higher. it even hit 0psi at one point, and scared him. but it ran fine. he had them changed for aftermarket units and got a good 40-60psi if I recall, with AMS 10w40 Swapping the unit out for an aftermarket unit did the trick.

LOL i've seen that photo everywhere, I didn't know you took it (watermark!!!). AFAIK, and if you take a look back at fentin_fury's build with his blue block and CP pistons, the RB26 pistons are also half a millimeter proud of the deck. From what I've been told by a friend of mine (when selecting pistons and mentioning the positive deck clearance), he said "well the '26 pistons come over the deck anyway, so It's nothing to be concerned about..." Is this correct? It could be that given the compression height of the RB26 piston and the stroke, it would seem as though the piston is shorter so side-wall scuffing does not occur at extreme rod angles, and does nothing to the deck clearance once assembled. In either case, it will end up still being proud of the deck. can someone correct me on this? I'm not sure if it's right... When you post your piston manufacturer as well as the head volume (please do not go by the piston manufacturers specs, as I've stated before... there are tons of conflicting readings) I will then redo the specs if they differ.

look at the top of the pictures where it says "App. Model"

Just checked my dealership. 5.00 a piece, my price. so they are available. There is a second program that your dealer has to input the number into, not the local stock. keep it in mind for future parts look-up. sometimes they just dont wanna order from overseas.

just for technical terminologies sake, the bulge in the middle of the piston is referred to as the "dome", and the edge of the pistons that come out passed the block are referred to (and someone correct me on this) the "crown" of the piston, and not the ring-lands like some people incorrectly say (as there is no ring on it, persay). Now, as I had mentioned earlier, the RB30 pistons are 1.280 compression height pistons, and RB26 pistons stick out of the block by 0.020 inches, or 0.5 mm. This is referred to as "positive deck" clearance. The VG30 pistons, being 1.260 compression height would give you a "zero deck" clearance. This isn't too bad, because you will not have to worry about the piston crown hitting the head if you incorrectly select your gasket, or the rods start to stretch while they're hot @ high RPM. You could get anywhere from 8.2 - 8.9:1 compression ratio without skimming the block by some rough calculations I did. I'm at work so I can't really look into it.

z31 mount has a pair of dumbbell weights on the end, so that will not fit, and it looks like one side is elevated, whereas mine is not on the z31.

The trans mount, shown here, is the same in all these cars with the designated engines. For some reason, my US CD isn't working properly, and showing European cars, so I think the KA tranny mount would be the same being that this is the FS5R30A trans, and the other cars listed have the FS5W71C trans. So does the KA S13 and S14's. Sadly, the isolator is only the same as the C34 trans isolator, so I don't think you'll have luck finding a factory replacement, and may have to look into other vehicles or aftermarket parts / parts bin accessories:

Once I figured it out, the rest of the weekend went kinda smoothly. I reinstalled and removed it 4 times more to get it right. It should ok now. I think I'm a master at doing it now. It's in another thread in the Nissan V6 forums.

14465-05U11 3 per vehicle. there is a small bend on the front turbo that has two of them, one on top, and one beneath, and one on the rear turbo.

haaaaaaahahahaha.. I actually yelled at the top of my lungs trying to take the turbo out, and then I sat down and had a chat with it. "Listen Tee-Three. I gave you a fresh pair of underwear, I brushed your teeth, I put some vaseline on your parts that you keep saying are chaffing you, and all I want is for you to come out, so I can put your hat on straight, ok!?... this isn't my garage, and it's not yours, so quit hiding in there!" surprisingly, 2 or 3 pulls and attempts later, the little guy just came right out! i bent 3 tabs today on the parts that i forgot to bend before putting it back in. It was all I could access with a screw driver and calibrated smashometer. I'll see if I can get some more bent up tomorrow. got some more oil hose, and made a new oil drain and surprisingly it went on easier than I thought after I realize that the hose I was using was about 2 mm too long and not giving enough room to align the bolt holes. I fastened my TB to my intake after using scissors to cut the hole of the gasket about 2 mm wider (stanza throttle!), and I fastened it using new nissan TB Bolts. I bought T-Bolt clamps from princess auto that match the TB Bolts, so I'll put those on, and they look might nice and are a lot better than those shitty band clamps. I also put my magna-filter and cheapo filter on (for first 100 miles after reassembling valvetrain). I then installed my new oil pressure switch. I put the crossover pipe (after spraying it with 3 coats of VHT manifold paint). And I also sprayed my intake pipe with the same caliper paint I used to do my valve covers, which came out amazing. Tomorrow I will shoot it with some Clear and let it sit for a couple of days while I get the injectors/cam-gears/timing belt/valve train back on. I think I'll be ok for my deadline if I give it 3 to 4 hours a night for at least 2 or 3 nights a week. 3 weeks and counting!

I don't like it. cause it's not on my car, when it should be...

JUST MY OPINION. motorhead. I like your logo, i was envisioning a leaf the first time i read the project outline as well. May I suggest going out on a limb with the leaf and using it on the left hand side, with no border. In the middle of the leaf, use a darker version of the green and have it span out from where the stem meets the petal, and growing outwards towarsd the edges... that would make it look like.... a spark! LOL also, the font is kinda 80's. not bad, but I think with the leaf + spark idea and perhaps a font like Avenir Bold + Avenir light ALL-CAPS for the sub-title, it would look a bit cleaner and more up to date. Or even VAG Arial Rounded if you want to make it look closer to what you ahve there. My suggestion does not neccesarily give it the web 2.0 look and feel, but then again, that's not the target look, so I think it's almost there!

I think that metal plate at the back with the 2 rods attached to the bottom and the bent edges is the parachute mounting plate.

OK. UPDATE. in this dreadful -11* celsius weather, I managed to get the turbo out, reclock it, and put it back in. but I forgot one stupidly small thing, and I'm not going to take it out again, now that all the oil and coolant lines are lined up, bolted and ready to fly (except the drain tube, I'm going to cut a new hose and see put that sucker on good this time. So. I had to remove the engine mount-block bracket. remove the oil line, and oil drain, bend the heat shield bracket at the vacuum booster out of the way, let the turbo fall, remove the coolant line and hard-pipe bracket, and use a lot of four letter words to take it out in ways I would never think possible. I then bent the locking tabs and loosened the turbine housing center cartridge bolts, put the turbo back in by wrestling it once again, put the bracket hard pipe bracket back in (used for aligning center section properly), put the turbo back onto the head using only 4 studs, pulled on the coolant lines to align them with the bracket hole (moved a good inch, which translates to about 3 or 4 millimeters on the center cartridge), went under and over the car tightening bolts enough so that it wouldnt move. I then removed the turbo again, put it on the floor, loosened the bolts I had tightened, and then retightened them all in stages so that the turbine shaft would not bind. At this point, haste got the best of me, and I did not bang up the locking tabs on the turbine center section bolts (the small part I said I forgot). But I remembered that Nissan did not have the locking tabs there before I removed the bolts (and broke some in the process) when I was sending it out for rebuilding. So I don't think it's going to concern me much. I'll shove a long screwdriver in there and tap it with a hammer to bend as many as I can in tomorrow if i can reach. SOOOOO I hope it's not gonna rear its ugly head and bite me in the ass, but I'm sure it will be ok. Does anyone have any objections? Cause I will pull that mother F'er back off if anyone has experienced any situation where they backed out!. I had a bitch of a time aligning the oil feed, as I had installed it nicely with the original gasket, and then realized that the rear coolant tube was not connected, and I could not wedge it into place. So I had to remove the oil tube, and put the coolant tube to the side, slide in the oil tube, tighten down the coolant tube banjo bolt, and then realign the oil tube, cracking the gasket in half in the process. I then remembered that kit had a new gasket in there, so I used that one. Hopefully this doesn't haunt me either. Now everything is back together, the crossover pipe was delivered today from my friend Nick, who welded it up for me because the small welder I was using ran out of wire as we were finishing up, and my new power cable for my 225amp mega welder has the wrong plug end, and I didnt want to spend an hour re-trimming the wires and putting on a new cable end at this point. I just sprayed the welds with some VHT manifold paint, and it will go on tomrrow, then the rear coolant pipe for the lower intake, and then the timing belt + valve train accessories. From there it's clutch, flywheel, and trans + exhaust and whatnot. Hopefully by next week it will be done. Definately will be done before my birthday (Dec 14, if anyone wants to send me a box of beer!). UGHHHHHHHH IM BEAT. someone hit me over the head with a baseball bat so I can sleep (like some are looking for a reason, anyway! ahaha.... *sigh*)

Staged injection RB26 dual rail throttles?

HOW THE F do you get this turbo out of the engine bay without removing the head? This is impossible. Are you removing a T25 or a T3 from the 87? Split year, mine has a T3 turbo with the W block casting. I Think I may have to remove all the studs to even get close to having enough room to lift this bitch out. I have the engine jacked up as high as it will go with a bottle jack so that the opening is further away from the slope of the strut towers, and I removed the oil line banjo bolt and the bracket that holds the oxygen sensor wire (seriously, did they need a bracket for that? LOL come on, Nissan!). There is next to no room to remove this thing, and I'm really getting frustrated. Had it not been for this god forsaken center section mis alignment on my turbo it would be a done deal by now. ARGHHHHHHHHHH!

it's obvious that they're old kitchen furnishings that were moved into the garage during a renovation. what's wrong with it? I would love two corvettes in my kitchen.

I'll second the VHT comment. I used both, and I like the VHT better. Even VHT's caliper paint is rated higher than their engine paint, and it sticks better and is good for twice the temperature for only like 2 bucks more!

I think I should mention that if you decide to put receiver grooves in your head and o-ring the block, it would be a good idea to bore using a torque plate. it makes more sense!

I like that. what a great idea. The flexplate is so light compared to flywheels! But are you sure it's strong enough?

TRIED THERE, BEEN THAT. you most often cannot even get an angle drill in there properly and hit the stud square in these engine bays. It's worth a shot. I tried doing it for 2 weeks. Then I tried welding on the stud to build it up and put a nut on the end and remove it.... did not work, metal got too hot and gravity caused the bolt hole to become eliptical. If I were to do it again, I would at least lift the engine out high enough to put some cinder blocks under it and lessen the tension on the engine hoist chain, and then try and remove the studs while the engine is in the air. Nissan redesigned the studs later on the pre-95 maximas. You will get new studs if you order them. Replace them all!

I rode my bike home during the snowfall with only front brakes. was quite fun Git'r done, jerry. There'll be plenty more where that came from! Pop some blizzaks on the Z!

I got some other things that I've been asked to work on, but as a pointer for some of you who decide to take on this project: 1) make sure your logo works in grayscale first before applying colour. 2) make sure you don't over do it with the colours or gradients. It's a bitch to print. 3) try and keep lines well separated and use text no smaller than 7 point, as it starts to become harder to print on a 4 colour press, as opposed to a spot colour job. 4) work in Illustrator or another vector capable program. Photoshop is not ideal. 5) unless you're making your own typeface, keep the fonts original and use a good font that can be legible at both large and small sizes, and don't use anything whacky. It's most often not needed. 6) What you're really asking for here is "workmark", and not a logo. If you guys need inspiration, looking for wordmark in google will find some nice results. 7) Think of the "industrial" market. Unless you're designing high-fashion girders, I would stay away from GENUINE italicized fonts and scripts. Some could be well used, but more often than not you burn some hours trying to make it work when simplicity is key. 8) Before you decide to add an element that may make it more creative, think of the brand itself and where you see parts of the logo being used, and perhaps designing a letterhead to go with the logo may lend a more helpful hand to picking the proper brand. Ideally, it should be applicable to the letterhead, business card, shipping label, and #10 envelope. Personal opinion: I think only the "environmental leaders" is nicely designed. The others look as if they're from the 80's. Not necessarily a bad thing... I have an 80's car and I think it looks purdy nice but they just don't sit right, and I would not go in that direction. It's possible to explore newer avenues that may look simpler, cleaner, and more effective. Hope to see some good ones, z'ers!

Roger... I remember you calling me about a year ago regarding a project, and you told me the story of how you met Jack... I think you should include it as a second volume. In my opinion, it was the better half of the story, where the friendship between you and Jack began.