Miles

More info: Set up is a 1974 350 out of a Monte Carlo with a performance cam according to the previous owner of the engine. Edlebrock 1406 4 bbl and point type distributor. Nothing fancy. Engine runs rough and lacks power when stepping on the gas. It tends to stumble as it reaches shift RPM in 1st, 2ed 3rd etc. For a brief period I was able to rev up to 4000 RPM (no load) and it sounded very tight and normal. Shut the engine off and it was hard to start. Held pedal to the floor while cranking for about 15/20 seconds and then it finally started in fits and spurts. Idles ok at 600 RPM. The electric fuel pump is putting out 4-6 psi. Mostly around 4 psi with spurts of 6 psi. Is that good enough for a 350?

Symptoms: engine (350 sbc) ran rough at all speeds with backfiring through exhaust when the throttle is released. Flat spot and rough running at 1500 RPM and up. Replaced wires, plugs, cap, points, rotor, condensor etc. Set timing 12 DBFTDC. Replaced old Carter 4 bbl with an Edlebrock 1406. Set timing at 12 DBTDC. Installed fuel pressure gage. Electric fuel pump is putting out 4-6 psi. Stays at 4 psi and jumps to 6 psi then back to 4 psi. Engine still backfires through open headers. Local speed shop guy told me that running without exhaust hooked up will cause back firing and can cause a flat RPM spot. Engine won,t start after it heats up. It will start if pedal is held to the floor and just keep cranking. Also, advancing the timing to 12 DBFTDC seems to make it hard to start (engine was hot when this happened). However, engine ran smooth through 4000 RPM with timing at 12 DBFTDC. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 74 350 sbc with a holly 4bl carb in a 72 240z. Engine looses power around 1500-2000 RPM and backfires through the exhaust. I have replaced all ignition electrical: points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,and condensor. I set the dwell at 31 and the timing is set at 8 deg btdc. I tweaked the mixture screws and got some minor improvement e.g., when I stomped on it in 2ed gear it took off like a rocket, but then crapped out at about 2500 RPM. The carb is very old and I am thinking of replacing it. Any suggestions on getting the car tuned smoothly and for a replacement carb. Also, When I let off the gas at any speed the engine backfires through the exhaust. Thanks

I used a Ford F 150 MC with the Camaro slave. Pump the MC and open the bleed screw on the slave. Note that the fluid will spray out and eat your paint so cover up any paint you want to keep. With the F 150 MC it took about half can of fluid to bleed out the air. Once bled I have a very smooth clutch and full movement of the T.O. arm.

Mike I was wondering the same thing. We are on a budget so I am debating using Eibach progressive springs or just go with 175 spring rates with Tokico performance struts front and back and a sway bar on the front.

Thanks for the info. The seats are for my son's 72 240. Currently have Accura seats, but the frame on the drivers seat is twisted and seats are a little wide. Miles

will 95+ Honda Civic seats fit in a 72 240Z?

Just a thought. Have you considered the MSA tranny mount? It bolts up inside of the tunnel and does not weigh much. Very easy to install and it allows a lot of flexibility in adjusting the tail shaft angle. MSA sells the tranny mount with their v8 conversion kit. You may be able to buy the tranny mount separately. You can contact MSA at 800-633-6331, 714-639-2620, www.zcarparts.com. Very simple to install and it's solid. MSA also sells the tranny rubber mount as part of their conversion kit. The rubber mount is designed for the 700r auto trans, but it worked fine for my T5 install. Cheers

I just installed a new clutch, T.O. bearing, pilot bearing and T5 Camaero trans on my sbc 350. The pilot bearing fits tightly into the flywheel. I tapped the pilot bearing into place using a socket that was about the same diameter as the pilot bearing. You could also use a tool to install the bearing, but I was too cheap so I used a socket. Start the pilot bearing into the hole in the flywheel so that it goes in evenly. Then tap it gently using the socket until it seats at the bottom of the hole in the flywheel. The input shaft should fit into the pilot bearing without having to apply a lot of force. When I installed the T5, the input shaft, once aligned, just slipped into the pilot bearing with no effort.

Lone I priced the Toyota conversion here in Sacramento using parts purchased from a Nissan dealer, Southern Auto parts and Auto Zone. To buy rebuilt Toyota calipers and install stock rotors with new bearings and seals is only going to cost about $250.00. I am going to keep the MC stock, but I am concerned about two things: 1-will there be a problem suppling enough volume with the stock MC and 2-if I go to a larger bore on the MC will I then have problems modulating the brakes and/or will they grab at the bottom of pedal travel? Cost-wise rebuilding the front brakes with stock parts costs about the same as the Toyota conversion. Either way I just want to do this once right the first time.

How well does the Toyota brake upgrade work. I have a new master and master vac in place place in a 72 240Z and ready to do the Toyota brake upgrade, but review of the forum on this subject indicates some folks are happy with the Toyota conversion and some have had problems. Given new stock rotors, new master and master vac can I expect a bunch of new problems with the conversion or will I see some improvement?

I am considering Eibach progressive springs. Looking for a good price. MAS wants about $279.00 per set. Do you know of a better price or source?

I just finished installing a SBC and 89 World Class T5 trans into my son's 72 240Z. We used the Motor sports Auto (MSA) conversion motor and transmission mounts. The tranny mount was designed for the 700R auto trans, but it worked just fine with the t5. Using the Camaro bell housing the shifter comes right up the stock hole in the tunnel with a little trimming on the drivers side. The advantage of the MSA tranny mount is that it fits up in the tranny tunnel and you can move it up and down within a range of several inches to fine tune the angle of the ouput shaft. I just put an angle finder on the end of the output shaft while my son jacked the tranny up until I got the angle I wanted. We then bolted the mount in place. The differential is off horizontal by 2.5 deg. We have road tested the car and the drive train is smooth as silk with no vibrations. MSA does not put the engine as low or as far back as the JTR mounts, but this is fine for a daily driver. It depends on how you are going to use the car. Overall I would rate the installation of the SBC and T5 using the MSA mounts fairly easy. The hardest part was converting from a R100 diff to the R200 diff. You can get lots of help doing your V8 conversion through the folks here in the HybridZ forum. Cheers

Are replacement dimmer/TS switches available for the 240Z? The white plastic connector on the back of the switch disintegrated. Volt meter shows power to the red/white and red/yellow wires that attach to the back of the dimmer switch. Have no low or high beams. All other lights work. Also, where is the article on headlight harness replacement by BLKMGK? Thanks.

Does anyone else supply a fuel safety switch besides Summit? What is the Summit cat. no. for the saftey switch. I may install one using a relay. How about an inertial fuel/power shut off switch?

The car is on the ground and road tested. It shifts perfectly using Lee's hydraulic set up from a Ford F150 and a Camaro slave. problem was that I failed to mention that the drive shaft was not installed when I tested gear changes after the clutch was installed. Once the driveshaft was installed the grinding in reverse disappeared.

Pete Re: Drive shaft angles. I measured the tranny level at the output shaft with an angle finder at exactly 90 deg with the car level. The differntial measured at the input flange with the car level was about 92.5 deg from level. I road tested the car, but did not take it over 20 mph. No vobrations at low speed. Hope it will be ok at hwy speeds as I have seen some of trouble some of you have had with this.

After 8 weeks of work and help from hybrid Z we now have our 72 240Z on the ground and running. The major components include: 82 Camaro radiator with Flex-A-Lite 150 fan, 74 sbc 350 w/performance cam, MSA block hugger headers, MSA motor & trans mounts, Holly 4bbl carb, Ford F150 clutch master, Camaro clutch slave, 89 Camaro World Class T5 trans, and 78 280Z R200 differential, 91 Acura seats. Cost to date is about $4000.00 including the cost of the car and all of the above. We still have suspension and brake upgrades to do, but I think this puts us over the hump. Note the MSA mounts were very easy to install. The MSA trans mount allowed very easy leveling of the trans which is phased almost perfectly with the differential. They are within about 3 degrees. The hardest part was the R100/R200 changeout and the mustache bar. Road tested the car with open headers and it was second best feeling in life. Thanks for all of your help along the way

Thanks for all of your input. I was going to rip the engine and trans out, but will wait until I get my driveshaft cut and installed for some road testing. If after more tweaking of the hydraulics/linkages does not solve the problem then I pull the clutch apart.

I just installed a t5 with all new clutch components as part of a 72 240Z sbc v8 conversion. I am using a Camaro slave driven by a Ford M/C with a 1 in. bore. I am getting 1 in. of fork travel at the point where the slave connects to the t/o arm but the trans grinds going into reverse. Any help would be appreciated.

Has anyone in the forum used a Ford fuel shut off inertia switch instead of the oil pressure switch set up given in the JTR manual? The inertia switch seems like a simpler approach to shutting off the electric fuel pump in the event of a crash. Do any of the Speed shops offer an inertia type fuel shut off switch?

Just finished installing a 350 sbc and T5 Wc trans in a 72 240Z. What is the best/easiest throttle cable to adapt to the 350 and 240Z? Also, I can get a pair of 75 280Z seats for $75.00, but will they fit in the 240Z?

Lone I have installed a r200 too and next week will be installing a T5 in place of a Saginaw 4 speed. It will be several weeks before I can road test the car. From what I have read here in the forum, it's almost a given that I'll have to do the mustache bushing mod. I am also considering going to a hard front diff mount.

Just want to check my understanding of driveline phasing. Basically, the angle of the transmission center line and the differential input shaft centerline must be parallel. So, if the angles of the trans and diff sum to 180 deg then they are parallel. For example, from the book Practical Engine Swapping, if the diff is 80 deg nose up and the trans is 100 deg down then everything sums to 180 deg and is properly aligned in the verical axis. Right? So much for vertical alignment. Has anybody had a problem in the horizontal axis of driveshaft alignment?

Davy Thanks for the email. I spent about 2 hours going through old HybridZ posts on this subject. Didn't find anything on tweaking the rear mount of the T5 when the Camaro bell housing is used. I am assuming that using the Camaro bell housing will place the rear mount in a level position and the shift er pointing towards the driver. Question: does the shifter angle make for awkward shifting? As for the hydraulic MC and slave units I plan on using a Tilton 13/16" MC and the Camaro slave. Several old posts indicate this combo works well. I have a Corvett bell housing as well so if the Camaro BH doesn't work I'll go with Corvett as a back up.