Miles

Pete Bearings make sense. If they were worn they would move around under changing loads. My worst fear has been that the splines are damaged. I'll check it out some more. What has to be done to change out the bearings? My research on stub axle repair suggests it's a pain to do. Thanks Miles

I think my stub axles are going out. Lots of free play when both of the rear wheels are turned back and forth by hand and there is a clunking coming from the passenger side rear wheel when I shift or reverse direction. Diff mount, U-joints, drive shaft etc. are all tight. How hard is it to rebuild the stub axles and what causes the clunking? Is it worn splines or bearings that cause the looseness and clunking? Thnaks Miles

Found the problem. Looks like the stub axles are worn and will have to be replaced. Local recycler says its' easier to replace the whole stub axle and strut assembly than to replace the stub axle due to problems with getting the lock nut off of the stub axle. Has anyone in the Forum replaced stub axles? Thanks Miles

Found the problem. A small spring in the lock plunger mechanism is missing. The spring allows the door plunger to stay in the up (unlocked) position or the down (locked position). The lock plunger was designed so that if the spring falls out or breaks the lock will fail in a secure mode i.e., it stays locked unless you keep the key turned or hold the plunger up. The spring looks like the spring part of a safety pin. It appears that I will have to remove the door latch mechanism from the door to replace the spring. Looks like a pain to work on. Miles

Just purchased a 72 240Z in all stock condition. Everything on the car works except for a clunking sound when sifting or reversing. I thought this might be the front diff mount. I jacked up the car on jackstands. Inspection of the front diff mount shows that it is not torn and I could only slightly move it with a long screw driver. I then checked for play in the drive shaft. Only very little play when turning the drive shaft back and forth. Next I put the car in gear and rotated the the right and left rear wheel back and forth. There is a lot of free play when turning the wheel back and forth. Is time to replace the rear end?

Having trouble getting to the nuts on top of the diff front mount. I can barely get an open end wrench on the bolts heads at the bottom of the mount. I removed the front cross member and left a jack under the rear end to keep things lined up. Should I remove the drive shaft and the jack and just let the diff hang off the rear mount. The last one of these I did with the diff out of the car. Trying to minimize downtime as this is my daily driver. Thanks Miles

OOps This is a 72 240Z with manual locks. Thanks Miles

The drivers doorlock will not stay in the unlocked position. I have to turn the key while pulling on the door handle to unlock the door. If I unlock it and remove the key the door goes back into a locked mode. Also, to get out I have to hold the lock knob up while pulling the interior door handle. Thanks Miles

My front differential mount is failing. Do I have to remove the differential to install a solid front mount or can I just pull off the front cross member to get at the bolts? Thanks

I was going to hook up the oil pressure cut out per JTR, but there is not much space where the senor is located near the fire wall. I noticed that there is a plug just above the oil filter boss and was wondering if a pressure sensor switch could be screwed into where the plug is. I have also located a supplyer for an inertial cut off switch that chops all of the power in an accident. It is the same inertial cut off switch used in Ford explorers.

More info: Set up is a 1974 350 out of a Monte Carlo with a performance cam according to the previous owner of the engine. Edlebrock 1406 4 bbl and point type distributor. Nothing fancy. Engine runs rough and lacks power when stepping on the gas. It tends to stumble as it reaches shift RPM in 1st, 2ed 3rd etc. For a brief period I was able to rev up to 4000 RPM (no load) and it sounded very tight and normal. Shut the engine off and it was hard to start. Held pedal to the floor while cranking for about 15/20 seconds and then it finally started in fits and spurts. Idles ok at 600 RPM. The electric fuel pump is putting out 4-6 psi. Mostly around 4 psi with spurts of 6 psi. Is that good enough for a 350?

Symptoms: engine (350 sbc) ran rough at all speeds with backfiring through exhaust when the throttle is released. Flat spot and rough running at 1500 RPM and up. Replaced wires, plugs, cap, points, rotor, condensor etc. Set timing 12 DBFTDC. Replaced old Carter 4 bbl with an Edlebrock 1406. Set timing at 12 DBTDC. Installed fuel pressure gage. Electric fuel pump is putting out 4-6 psi. Stays at 4 psi and jumps to 6 psi then back to 4 psi. Engine still backfires through open headers. Local speed shop guy told me that running without exhaust hooked up will cause back firing and can cause a flat RPM spot. Engine won,t start after it heats up. It will start if pedal is held to the floor and just keep cranking. Also, advancing the timing to 12 DBFTDC seems to make it hard to start (engine was hot when this happened). However, engine ran smooth through 4000 RPM with timing at 12 DBFTDC. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a 74 350 sbc with a holly 4bl carb in a 72 240z. Engine looses power around 1500-2000 RPM and backfires through the exhaust. I have replaced all ignition electrical: points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,and condensor. I set the dwell at 31 and the timing is set at 8 deg btdc. I tweaked the mixture screws and got some minor improvement e.g., when I stomped on it in 2ed gear it took off like a rocket, but then crapped out at about 2500 RPM. The carb is very old and I am thinking of replacing it. Any suggestions on getting the car tuned smoothly and for a replacement carb. Also, When I let off the gas at any speed the engine backfires through the exhaust. Thanks

I used a Ford F 150 MC with the Camaro slave. Pump the MC and open the bleed screw on the slave. Note that the fluid will spray out and eat your paint so cover up any paint you want to keep. With the F 150 MC it took about half can of fluid to bleed out the air. Once bled I have a very smooth clutch and full movement of the T.O. arm.

Mike I was wondering the same thing. We are on a budget so I am debating using Eibach progressive springs or just go with 175 spring rates with Tokico performance struts front and back and a sway bar on the front.

Thanks for the info. The seats are for my son's 72 240. Currently have Accura seats, but the frame on the drivers seat is twisted and seats are a little wide. Miles

will 95+ Honda Civic seats fit in a 72 240Z?

Just a thought. Have you considered the MSA tranny mount? It bolts up inside of the tunnel and does not weigh much. Very easy to install and it allows a lot of flexibility in adjusting the tail shaft angle. MSA sells the tranny mount with their v8 conversion kit. You may be able to buy the tranny mount separately. You can contact MSA at 800-633-6331, 714-639-2620, www.zcarparts.com. Very simple to install and it's solid. MSA also sells the tranny rubber mount as part of their conversion kit. The rubber mount is designed for the 700r auto trans, but it worked fine for my T5 install. Cheers

I just installed a new clutch, T.O. bearing, pilot bearing and T5 Camaero trans on my sbc 350. The pilot bearing fits tightly into the flywheel. I tapped the pilot bearing into place using a socket that was about the same diameter as the pilot bearing. You could also use a tool to install the bearing, but I was too cheap so I used a socket. Start the pilot bearing into the hole in the flywheel so that it goes in evenly. Then tap it gently using the socket until it seats at the bottom of the hole in the flywheel. The input shaft should fit into the pilot bearing without having to apply a lot of force. When I installed the T5, the input shaft, once aligned, just slipped into the pilot bearing with no effort.

Lone I priced the Toyota conversion here in Sacramento using parts purchased from a Nissan dealer, Southern Auto parts and Auto Zone. To buy rebuilt Toyota calipers and install stock rotors with new bearings and seals is only going to cost about $250.00. I am going to keep the MC stock, but I am concerned about two things: 1-will there be a problem suppling enough volume with the stock MC and 2-if I go to a larger bore on the MC will I then have problems modulating the brakes and/or will they grab at the bottom of pedal travel? Cost-wise rebuilding the front brakes with stock parts costs about the same as the Toyota conversion. Either way I just want to do this once right the first time.

How well does the Toyota brake upgrade work. I have a new master and master vac in place place in a 72 240Z and ready to do the Toyota brake upgrade, but review of the forum on this subject indicates some folks are happy with the Toyota conversion and some have had problems. Given new stock rotors, new master and master vac can I expect a bunch of new problems with the conversion or will I see some improvement?

I am considering Eibach progressive springs. Looking for a good price. MAS wants about $279.00 per set. Do you know of a better price or source?

I just finished installing a SBC and 89 World Class T5 trans into my son's 72 240Z. We used the Motor sports Auto (MSA) conversion motor and transmission mounts. The tranny mount was designed for the 700R auto trans, but it worked just fine with the t5. Using the Camaro bell housing the shifter comes right up the stock hole in the tunnel with a little trimming on the drivers side. The advantage of the MSA tranny mount is that it fits up in the tranny tunnel and you can move it up and down within a range of several inches to fine tune the angle of the ouput shaft. I just put an angle finder on the end of the output shaft while my son jacked the tranny up until I got the angle I wanted. We then bolted the mount in place. The differential is off horizontal by 2.5 deg. We have road tested the car and the drive train is smooth as silk with no vibrations. MSA does not put the engine as low or as far back as the JTR mounts, but this is fine for a daily driver. It depends on how you are going to use the car. Overall I would rate the installation of the SBC and T5 using the MSA mounts fairly easy. The hardest part was converting from a R100 diff to the R200 diff. You can get lots of help doing your V8 conversion through the folks here in the HybridZ forum. Cheers

Are replacement dimmer/TS switches available for the 240Z? The white plastic connector on the back of the switch disintegrated. Volt meter shows power to the red/white and red/yellow wires that attach to the back of the dimmer switch. Have no low or high beams. All other lights work. Also, where is the article on headlight harness replacement by BLKMGK? Thanks.

Does anyone else supply a fuel safety switch besides Summit? What is the Summit cat. no. for the saftey switch. I may install one using a relay. How about an inertial fuel/power shut off switch?