Miles

72 240Z with sbc 350: After fitting all new front and rear brake parts and putting about 300 miles on the pads (KVR) and shoes (OEM) I am having a problem with rear wheel lock up on heavy braking. Either the left or right wheel will lock up. The fronts will not lock up at all. Originally I adjusted the rears to where the drums just dragged on the shoes, but either the left or right wheel would lockup on hard braking. So I then backed off both sides, but either the left or right wheel will still lock up under hard braking. Slackening the adjustment further compounds the problem by increasing pedal travel. I am considering that I may need to install an adjustable proportioning valve to balance the front and rear braking in an effort to prevent the rear wheel lock up problem. What is the best approach for adding an adjustable PV? How do you get the rear brakes adjusted evenly? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Miles

I am considering installing an adjustable Proportioning valve (APV) in my 72 240Z. The stock PV is located in the rear on the passenger side near the diff and connects to a three way connector that connects to the rear brakes. I would like to install the APV on the left front fender near the MC and tap into the rear brake line that goes from the distibution block to the rear section of the MC. Or should I tap into the hard line that leaves the distribution block routed back to the rear brakes? Has anyone done this? What fittings were required? Thanks Miles

Thanks for all of your input. The company I bought the coupler from has provided conflicting stories about the bushing ID being too large. Based on the input from you folks I am going to go with an ABS plastic coupler from Energy Suspension. Miles

I recently bought a urethane steering coupler. The dealer I bought it from has informed me that the manufacturer included metal bushings with IDs that are too large. Sure enough comparing the ID of the metal bushings to the bolts that hold the coupler together shows that the ID of the bushing is way bigger than the bolt diameter. Has anyone else run into this? Or is this normal? I don't want to install the bushing only to have it slop around due to the large bushing ID. Thanks Miles

Can anyone recommend a manufacture and part number for a bottom radiator hose to fit between the SBC water pump and the Griffin bottom outlet? My 19" x 22" Griffin has the bottom outlet tube angled slightly up so it looks like the hose is going to have to make some compound bends to line up with the outlet tube. Thanks Miles

Ron Any problems fitting the wiring/connectors through the metal canisters that hold the lights? Seems like Blackmagic used a painless kit and had trouble getting the sockets wired through the metal canister behind the light. This kit sounds easier to install then the painles kit. Thanks Miles

The previous owner of my 72 240Z installed Hella H4 headlights. I need to replace one of the bulbs. Do I have to remove the entire assembly from under the fender or is there a way to pull the headlight from the front? Thanks Miles

Doug PV is mounted in the rear. Miles

BTW... what is the procedure for bleeding the MC? Thanks Miles

Doug All parts front and rear except the stock proportioning valve and the connection block located under the MC are new OEM parts. The MC is new OEM also. I have tried to adjust the rear shoes to just short of dragging, then the right or left wheel will lock up under hard braking . Miles

Mike The rear shoes have a leading and trailing shoe. I installed them per my manual and compared them to my other 72 240Z. The install looks ok. Also, the fronts just will not lock up. I don't have the tools or tubing knowledge to install a proportioning valve so I may have a speed shop install one or find someone who could make me up a complete bolt in kit. I was planning on removing the stock PV and attaching the new adjustable PV to the old stock PV lines in the rear and then mounting the new PV in the passenger side tool box. If someone could make me up a kit with PV, flared pre-bent tubing,and adaptor fittings would be preferable to paying a speed shop to do the work. Thanks Miles

Mike Thanks Miles

While testing the yellow and black wires that attach to the fuel tank sending unit I attched a volt meter to the black and yellow wires and turned on the ignition. The volt meter initially went to 12 volts and then started pulsing as if the fuel gauge wiring were attached to a turn signal. The voltage would drop to zero and then pulse to 12 volts. The fuel gauge has never worked so I am pulling the fuel tank to seal the various unused tubes and replace the fuel level sending unit. The pulsing voltage at the yellow and black wires is an unexpected find. Anyone seen this before? Thanks Miles

While testing the yellow and black wires that attach to the fuel tank I attched a volt meter to the black and yellow wires and turned on the ignition. The volt meter initially went to 12 volts and then started pulsing as if the fuel gauge wiring were attached to a turn signal. The voltage would drop to zero and then pulse to 12 volts. The fuel gauge has never worked so I am pulling the fuel tank to seal the various unused tubes and replace the fuel level sending unit. The pulsing voltage at the yellow and black wires is an unexpected find. Anyone seen this before? Thanks Miles

Per JTR I installed the 84 Camaro Radiator (see page 12-6 in the JTR book 7th ed.) with a Black magic model 150 electric fan and 160 deg. thermostat in my 72 240Z. The Camaro radiator is not keeping up with the hot Sacramento days. Water temp is around 250 and fills the overflow tank on a regular basis. I am looking to replace the Camaro radiator. Anyone have a a part number and source for a radiator that fits and keeps the temp down. My shorty headers are cooking every thing under the hood. What are the pros and cons of applying header wrap? Thanks Miles

After installing all new rear brake parts on my 72 240Z I have had a problem with the right rear locking up when making an emergency stop. The OEM shoes have about 200 miles of city driving on them. So I backed out the right side adjuster and now the left rear tends to slightly lock up and pedal travel has increased. I was thinking I should just slacken the adjusters all the way loose and use the hand brake to adjust the shoes and not mess with the adjusters at all. Also, on this car the front brakes,new with about 200 miles on them, will not lock at all. The master cylinder is new OEM. We have put about a gallen of Ford brake fluid through the system and no air bubbles are present. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Miles

While I was road testing rear brake adjustment on my 72 240Z with a 350 sbc the engine would just quit when making a hard stop (clutch in). I am guessing that this may have something to do with carb float adjustment. Any ideas? Thanks Miles

I recently installed a new Master cylinder on a 72 240Z. There appears to be a leak at the fitting of the rear brake hard pipe where it is attached to the MC or at the large nut where it screws into the bottom of the MC directly under the reservoir for the rear brakes. I can detect fluid between the large nut and the main body of the MC and, over a few days, fluid builds up around the fitting for the rear brake line where it screws into the large nut. I assumed being a new MC they would have properly tightened that large nut at the facory. I have the rear brake fitting that bolts to the MC as tight as I can get it with out risking stripping the threads. I thought of pulling the MC and tightening the large nut the rear fitting screws into. I was also wondering if there may be a problem with the fitting that screws into the MC. Is it ok to put plumbers tape on the threads? Should I go buy a new hard pipe and fitting? Thanks Miles

Once you get the gland nut off the strut tube is there anything else holding the shock in the tube? Also, does anyone know if any parts stores sell the gland packing nut removeal tool. It is availble from Kentmoore Tools, but I would like to find one closer to home if possible. Thanks Miles

I am going to install a proportioning valve near the brake master cylinder in my 72 240Z. What should be done with the stock proportioning valve? Leave it? Gut it out? Thanks Miles

I get steering wheel shimmy when braking to a stop in my 72 240Z. Is it caused by warped rotors or worn suspenion parts? Thanks Miles

Would 180 lb/in. front and 200lb/in. rear spring rates be too stiff for a street 72 240Z V8? Arizona Z sells these springs for $89 per pair. I'd like to hear from anyone running close to 180 front and 200 rear spring rates in a V8 Z. Hows the ride? This is very subjective, but on a bone jarring scale of 1-10 (1-soft to 10-skate board) what is your ride like? Thanks Miles

Pete Would it be possible to get those last remaining bubbles of air out of the MC using a vacume type bleeder?

Anyone out there experienced with replacing a window regulator in a 72 240Z? My manuals do not explain the steps clearly. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Miles

Once the strut is out of the car and the spring is removed using a spring compresser, how do you get the old strut cartrage out of the strut? The nut has three holes on top. Do I need to buy a special tool to unscrew the nut? Thanks Miles