Miles

I broke a stub axle in my 240Z while making a normal slow take off from a stop sign. There was a loud bang and some clicking noise. I drove the car for about a week not realizing what had happened until I checked the clicking noise. I could move the right side half shaft and flange with a screw driver from side to side. So I pulled the half shaft and the flange and stub axle nut came off with it. The stub axle broke right at the bottom of the nut that holds the shaft on (typical). The only thing holding the stub axle in was the bearing. It was amazing that the half shaft and flange remained in place without making noise other than the clicks. I replaced both half shafts. Miles

Another tip on adjusting the push rod. You don't have to remove the MC to adjust the push rod. There is enough flex in the hard pipes that connect to the MC that you can just remove the nuts from the MC mount, pull it forward and gently push it aside to allow access to the push rod adjustment. When I swaped in a 280ZX MC into my 72 240Z I used this technique to fine tune the length of the push rod. There is also an adjustment on the break pedel under the dash you can adjust to get less or more pedel throw. Miles

Per the Haynes manual it is 3.5mm - 4mm from the face of the mounting flange. Turn the adjuster out until the tip of the push rod is 3.5mm - 4mm from the face of the flange. Don't extend the push rod adjustment out too far or you will lock your brakes up. The MC piston has to return far enough to allow fluid in the MC to drain out through a relief port inside the MC. Long story, but there are threads on this issue in the brake section. If you should lock your brakes up by over extending the push rod simply open the bleed screws on the MC with a 10mm wrench to relieve the pressure and limp home. And then back off the rod adjustment in small increments until no more lock up. Miles

My 15 inch Eagle wheels and a new set of 15 inch Ansen Sprint slotted wheels both fit over the 240SxX calipers with room to spare.

Stuck drum If you don't want to keep the drums, carefully drill the drum around the hub overlapping each drill hole until you go full circle. I did this on my first 240Z with stuck drums and was careful not to run the drill into the hub or to drill too deep. Once I drilled all the way around the hub I whacked the drum from the back side with a 5lb hammer and the drum came off. There was no damage to the hub. I also tried all of the other techniques for stuck drum removal, but this was the only way to get the drum off without taking the whole strut to a machine shop. I just did the 240sx rear breaks after screwing with drum brake maintenance for 7 years. Free at last. No more drum maintenance. The 240SX rear upgrade is not a great performance upgrade IMO. The car stops about the same, just less maintenance. Miles

got one

I'll pm you with phone number.

Wanted: clean undamaged 77-78 280Z hood vents with mounting studs intact. Sacramento Carmichael area Thanks Miles

I have the same brake set up using MM Toyota calipers and 300zx vented rotors front and 240sx calipers and 300zx solid rotors in the back. KVR pads in front and back. Also, a proportioning valve and a 280ZX MC. The rear 240sx brakes aren't doing much even with the P Valve full open for the rears. Has anyone else tried the Porterfield R4S pads on the front with KVR pads on the rear to help adjust front to rear bias?

The 240sx caliper slides on two guide pins. After installing the calipers I noticed that the right side caliper had some play in the guide pins. I could move the right caliper up and down slightly. The left caliper is tight and can not be moved up, down or side to side. So I went back to NAPA and exchanged the right side caliper for a new one. After installing the new caliper it also has the slight up and down movement. Is this a problem or normal for floating calipers? Thanks Miles

Here are some pictures of the modified E-Brake bracket installed. The cable fits perfect. Pulling the E-Brake handle up locks up both calipers.

Homes Please do post some pics. Thanks Miles

Homes Any signs that the driver's side hose rubs on the frame? Also, did you clamp the passenger side hose to the frame? Thanks Miles

I haven't hooked up the cables yet, but they do look about 1/4" short. I could make a slightly longer adaptor if the caliper becomes too preloaded. I am running into a lot of little problems I didn't expect such as the driver's side flex line looks like it will rub on the frame (see picture). Also, my cam arm where the e-brake connects is just a hook (see picture). I have an old set of 240SX calipers that has the correct cam arm that I plan on swapping the cam arm to my new calipers (see picture). Miles

The 240Z E-Brake cable has a smaller diameter then the hole in the 240SX E-Brake cable bracket (Hanger). The 240SX bracket is also thicker than the 240Z bracket making difficult to use the the retaining clips in a reliable way. So I had a shop weld the 240Z E-Brake bracket to the 240SX bracket as seen in the attached pictures. This should result in a more reliable (stock) mounting for the E-Brake cable.

I was chasing overheating issues with the JTR radiator. Did all of the things most people do to resolve the problem except for controlling water flow. Finally I bought a set of Moroso water outlet flow restrictors. I removed the thermostat and installed the middle sized Moroso outlet flow restrictor. My engine used to run 240 + deg. Now it runs 180 - 185 deg on 100 deg days.

I just installed a MM 240sx brake kit on my 240Z. There are two issues 1. Driver's Side Flex Line: I installed the 20" hard line that goes from the T block on the passenger side to the driver's side and used the SS flex line that came with the MM kit. The geometry and length of the flex line makes it fit very close to the frame and will most likely cause it to rub on the frame. I am thinking about getting another flex line the same length as the passenger side that Ross supplied in his kit. A longer line should allow it to droop below the frame, but not so long as to hit the half-shaft. From my search of the archives I see others have had this same problem and have just installed a flex line all the way to the T block. 2. E-Brake Arm on the 240SX Caliper: I bought 1994 remanufactured 240zx calipers. The problem is that the e-brake actuator lever that connects to the E-brake cable is completly different than the pictures I have seen here. On mine the lever has just a hook at the end. It looks like the letter "J". there is no way it will capture the fork on the end of the E-brake cable. I do have an old set of calipers I bought for core charge. See attached pictures. The new caliper is black. Miles

I found the source of the problem. There is a stop adjustment on the front and rear sides of the Hurst T5 shifter body to prevent over-shifting. The rear aduster had backed out and was allowing the the shifter to go too far aft when shifting into 4th gear. All is well now.

I replaced the Hurst shifter with the stock Camaro shifter and it shifts pefectly. I'll drive it this way for awhile to see if it locks up again. Anyone have problems with the Hurst shifter? Thanks Miles

Application: 350 SBC and Camaro T5 transmission with Hurst shifter in 72 240Z. Used Dexron fluid in the transmission 500 miles on new SBC and rebuilt Camaro transmission Up until today transmission shifted perfectly Problem: After coming to a stop the transmission locks up in 4th gear. It has to be forced out of 4th gear into neutral and it grinds doing this. Sitting and idling in neutral and attempting to shift into 4th grinds the gears. All other gears are perfect. Nothing is binding the shifter. I am going to check the shifter now. Thanks Miles

I am using teh JTR radiator with a Flex-A-Lite 180 electric fan and a high flow water pump. The radiator and fan fit together tight with no air gaps. Looks stock. Average engine temp is 185 to 210 in traffic. On days over 100 the temp has gotten up to 220. Miles

Rod I recently did another 350 SBC T5 combo. I used the Tilton 7/8" MC and a Napa brand Camaro slave. This is my second SBC T5 swap into a 240Z and the clutch was perfect in both cars. Bleeding and push rod adjustment are the keys to getting it to work just right. Here is what I did: Threaded the 240Z clutch fork to fit the Tilton MC per JTR. To bleed the MC just open the bleed screw on the slave enough to get good flow and let the fluid ooze out over about 15 or 20 minutes with a pan under the slave. Be patient. As the MC gets low add more fluid. Don't pump the MC. Make sure that the hose going to the slave has no bends that can trap air. The hose should be vertical. Close the slave bleed screw. Try the clutch. On the second pump my clutch came alive. If not repeat the drip method. Once you have a firm pedal, adjust the push rod under the dash to get optimum piston travel. I adjusted the rod out so there is about a 3/8" of thread showing. Don't over adjust it or it will bottom out the piston in the MC. There is also an adjustable rubber stop for the clutch pedal arm as it swings back to the resting position. You may need to adjust the rubber stop to get full return travel for the piston. Miles

My ad thread tools window does not have the delete function as requested by the rules below: 12. After your item/s have sold, please delete your ad. Miles

My ads do not have a delete function. Miles

There is no option to delete my ads in the thread tools window. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150057&highlight=engine http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150840&highlight=engine Please delete them or tell me how to proceed. Thanks Miles