Miles

I used Napa tie rod parts before. This time I will buy the OEM outter and inner tie rod assembly ($122 each side). Thanks Miles

I have replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured unit from the Steering Store. The steering rack came with new inner tie rods. I have replaced the outer tie rod ends and ball joints. The car was aligned after the the parts were replaced. There is still a clunk coming from the left inner tie rod where it connects to the steering rack when I have someone move the steering wheel back and fourth. The car still randomly pulls left. Sometimes it is a good tug to the left. I have rechecked the upper and lower steering shaft U-joints and they are tight. I placed my hand around the left inner tie rod connection and feel/hear a clunk when the steering wheel is turned right and left. Should there be any play at the inner tie rod connection? Thanks Miles

I have Eagle series 28 15 x 7 rims on my 240z. Has anyone mounted the MM Toyota 4x4 caliper kit for vented calipers with the Eagle series 28 rims? Currently I have the Toyota calipers for solid rotors on my car and there are no rubbing problems. There is about a 1 1/4 inch clearence between the outer face of the Toyota caliper and the back of the wheel and about 1 inch space between the side of the caliper and the inner rim. Are most rubbing issues with the back side of wheel or the side (inner rim) of the caliper with the vented set up? As long as the length and width difference between the solid caliper and the vented caliper is a inch or less there shouldn't be a problem. Thanks Miles

I'm going to do the MM vented rotor install so I'll leave the 79 280zx MC in place.

Daniel I have the Toyota 4 x 4 clipers with solid rotors and stock rear drums. With the stock master cylinder what is your pedal like? The reason I ask is with the 79 280zx MC braking requires more pedal pressure due to the larger piston, but my car hauls down fast. However, I can not lock the front brakes. I am planning on going to the MM vented set up soon so I am debating if I should keep the 79 zx MC or go back to the stock MC. Miles

For a solid rotor with Toyota brake install you can buy the calipers from Napa. Napa p/n: 442-6648 442-6640 They fit: 79-84 Toyota 4x4 pickup and 84-85 Toyota 4Runner Use KVR pads for the 84-85 4Runner You should replace your stock MC with a 79 280zx MC with this set up.

I wonder if I just remove the bolts that hold the column to the fire wall and under the dash there would be enough movement in the column to allow the shaft to be pulled from the front and just miss the frame rail. Miles

Terry Sounds like the shaft is two splined pieces where it goes up inside of the column so it will allow the steering shaft and column to collapse in a head-on. Good to know I don't have squeeze under the dash. Thanks Miles

I did several searches and found the same question with no answers and the person posting the question has not replaced his steeing shaft at this time. The upper u-joint on the steering shaft next to the coupler is worn. The u-joint is not replacable so I am ordering a used replacement from Z Barn. Question is how to remove the upper steering shaft. Can the shaft be slipped out of the steering column while still in the car or does the whole column have to be removed? Has anyone done this? Thanks Miles

5 Star I carry a 10mm tubing wrench with me when I am adjusting and testing the push rod length. When the brakes lock up from too much push rod you can releive the pressure in the brake lines by cracking open the MC bleed screws. I do my test drives near my house and this gets me home every time when the brakes lock up. Miles

Anyone ever buy a steering rack from: The Steering Store? Victoria British? Autozone? The Z Barn How would you rate the quality? THanks Miles

That u-joint next to the coupler appears to be an intregal part of the steering shaft. Seems like I will need to replace the upper section of the shaft with one that has a les worn u-joint. Miles

What all is envolved to remove the steering shaft. Looks like I will have to pull the entire steering column to get the shaft out. Once the column is out how do I remove the shaft from the outer column? Cir clip retainer, nut? While I have it apart I should replace the u-joint where the shaft connects to the rack. Is that lower u-joint available. What year 280 steering shaft fits the 240? Thanks Miles

Brian Did you find a replacement for the worn u-joint?

I found that the u-joint next to the steering coupler is very loose and will have to replaced. Are the u-joints on the steering shaft still available? Miles

Will it make any difference in pedal feel? I am planning do the same thing. Miles

The straight ends should work. No booster...just adjust the rod until it just touched the MC piston.

With the Toyota 4 x 4 claipers and 79 280zx MC in place, properly bled, and pushrod adjusted you have to push a little harder on the pedal , not much, but it is noticable. The Toyota 4 x 4 calipers eliminated the brake fade I used to experience making just one hard stop, such as, a red light or car stopped in front of me with no warning. It used to get scary. Fade is much less in those situations. I noticed that when applying the brakes the first time that the car slowed down faster and the nose of the car pitched down like the brakes were working like they were supposed to. The rear brakes have never seemed to do much even with all new parts. You will notice that the pedal travels more, even with the ZX MC extra volume, but that results in a feeling of more modulation. In emergency stops the car nose plows down hard and stops where I want it to even though the pedal feels like it has more travel. To some degree the push rod adjustment will take out some of the long pedal action, but you have to be carefull not to adjust it out too far or the brakes will lock up due to fluid being trapped in the system (long story do a search). I just adjusted the rod out, test drove the car in front of my house , and the brakes locked meaning the rod was out too far. If the brakes lock up you simply take a 10mm wrench and open the MC bleeder screws to relieve the pressure and then carefully drive home. Keep readjusting and test driving in a safe place until you get the pedal feel you want. The push rod can be adjusted with the MC hardlines in place, just unbolt the MC and push it out of the way. The push rod adjusting nut is 7mm and you will need vicegrips to hold the rod while you adjust the nut. You can bend the Datsun hard bridge tubes to fit the Toyota calipers. It was the most time consuming part of the install because you have to be careful not to kink the hard line. You can get longer steel braided lines and eliminate the bridge tubes. DO NOT use banjo fittings on the Toyota calipers as the spot they mount to are not milled for bajo fittings and they will leak. Instead, get stainless lines that screw into the caliper like the original Datsun bridge tubes. Get stainless lines with a 90 deg angle fitting where it goes into the caliper. The toyota calipers are available at Napa p/n 442-6648 and 442-6649 loaded about $300 including core charge. To make this swap work properly bench bleed the ZX MC and the system after installing the Toyota calipers. After years of frustration bleeding Datsun brakes I bought a power bleeder for this job and it worked well. Be sure your booster works and the push rod is adjusted to where it just touches the MC piston. There is an excellent wright up in the Brakes section with photos and measurements for the push rod adjustment. Miles

No you don't need the 15/16 MC unless you are planning on installing the toyota 4x4 calipers or you want to pay less for a new MC ($90.00 vs $140.00). I installed the 15/16 280zx MC before I switched to the Toyota setup. With the stock calipers it will take a little more foot pressure on the brake. You will also have to adjust the master vac push rod out a little longer since the 280zx MC is deeper where the push rod contacts the piston in the MC. There are several write ups you can search for here in the brake section explaining the pros and cons of installing a 1979 280zx MC in a 240z. Miles

Tires are 7inch and rims are 0 offset. I have had the tires and rims for about a year and didn't experience the wandering which came on just recently. I'll try adjusting the preload.

Steering rack sounds expensive. DANG IT. Thanks Miles

Given: 72 240z with all bushings replaced with poly U throughout 4 months ago, toyota 4x4 S12 calipers installed a year ago, rear brake cylinders replaced two years ago, new rear shoes 3 months ago, ball joints and outer tie rod ends replaced 6 months ago, Arizona Z springs and Tokico blues installed a year ago. Three weeks ago I replaced the right stub axle and inner and outer bearings. Had two mechanics check out the steering and all suspension for looseness and alignment. All was ok. I have go under the car and checked everysuspension part and everything is tight and functional. Car has 16 inch rims. Recently, the car will pull left, streighten out and then pull right, streighten out and then be ok for a mile and then repeat the wandering. I do get some slop when turning the steering wheel back and fourth and can hear some clunking as the steering moves and takes up the slack in the steering rack and other steering components. It feels like an invisable hand is pushing the steering wheel left then right and it is worse on rough roads. The car stops well, will pull left or right slightly at random times. The only thing I have done about the same time as the wandering started was to adjust the master vac push rod out a little to take up some slack in pedal travel. I know that adjusting the push rod out too far can lock up the brakes. The wheels spin free and the brakes don't drag. Could this be caused from adjusting the MC push rod out or sticky brake calipers? Miles

Dave The 280z booster is out as I don't want to redrill the firewall. Thanks Miles

I did a search, but didn't find an exact yes or no to the question: Are the brake booster firewall bolt patterns the same for the 72 240Z 7 inch dia booster the 75 280z 8 1/2 inch dia booster? I believe that the MC bolt patterns are the same. I have a manual transmission so the larger 280Z 10 inch booster will definately not fit. The reason I ask is that I have the 79 280zx MC with Toyota 4x4 front calipers and since I am replacing the booster I might try the larger 8 1/2 inch 280z booster for a little more assist when braking.

Mark I bought two cardone boosters. Before I put them on the car I checked if there was a reaction disk. There was no reation disk in either booster. I am going to install original factory boosters on both of my 240s. Miles