Miles

I just finished installing a SBC 350 in my 240Z. It is consuming gas such that a 18 mile round trip to work used about 1/2 tanks of gas. Data: Engine: GM Goodwrench 350/290 HP crate engine Cam: .450"/.460 lift, 222deg/222deg duration Carb: Edelbrock 1406 performer electric choke Distributor: MSD HEI Timing: 8 deg TDC Temp: runs about 185 deg using JTR radiator and electric fan Transmission: Camaro T5 rebuilt Differential: R200 3.54 Fuel pump: Edelbrock EDL-1791 Fuel pressure: 6 psi Idles ragged Off idle throttle is a little slow. Driving around town the fuel gage goes down fast. Any ideas. Thanks Miles

Given: recent install of SBC in a 240Z, MSD HEI distirbutor, using B/W wire with heavey black sleeve to power the HEI. All was working until today. I have been resolving over heating problems and would set the timing and lock down the distributor. The engine idled in the driveway at 180 deg, but as soon as I drove about a mile it would overheat and start dying at idle and eventually become impossible to start. After several episodes of this I noticed that each time the distributor was coming loose and would retard the spark. I think that this is what was causing the overheating. I put a lockwasher on the distributor hold down bolt and wrenched it tight, but it came loose again and ther car became impossible to start and was over heated. Now I have a new problem. The B/W ignition wire w/the big black sleeve has no power. All fuses are good. If I connect another source of B+ to the HEI Batt terminal I get no spark at all. 1. Did my MSD HEI die? Even with B+ to it it doesn't work. 2. Any ideas as to the loss of power on the B/W wire? Is there a hidden fuse? Thanks Miles

Does anyone have any ideas as to why a stock 240Z tack is working with an HEI distributor? The only wire hooked to the HEI is the black and white Datsun ignition wire. Per JTR the 240Z should not work.

Electric Choke Shorted on Edelbrock 1406 Carb? During the electrical check out before firing the recently installed SBC in my 240Z I noticed that the electric choke was almost too hot to touch. The engine had not been run. The choke is correctly wired with the red + wire hooked to a 12 volt source. The black wire on the choke is attached to ground. I am assuming that there must be a short inside the choke. Any ideas? Thanks Miles

Dan I swapped the Tilton push rod for the Datsun push rod and have it adjusted all the way out. So I'll check the total travel. Per Tilton the 7/8 the travel should be 1.1 inch. I didn't bench bleed the MC so I'll do that too. Thanks

Given: 72 240Z SBC swap done per JTR. Using MSD HEI distributor Per JTR the 240Z tach is not supposed to work with an HEI distributor. I just ran the engine for the first time and noticed that the stock 240Z tach is working perfectly with the HEI. I used the black and white wire with the black plastic sleave to power the HEI. The other non-sleeved black and white wire is not connected to anything. I connected the green and white wire to the output side of the oil pressure switch to power the fuel pump during starting. Everything works perfectly. ??? Miles

Yep 1 inch and we'll call it good. Also, there is some ATF leaking from around the output shaft seal and it is a rebuilt trans. New problem is that the Tilton 7/8 clutch MC and camaro slave are not moving the TO arm far enough. I have the push rod adjusted all the way to the end and have bled. This is a common problem as I have read a number of similar posts here. I will try more bleeding. Thanks Miles

Given: 240z SBC swap with Camaro T5 5 speed trans I measured the drive shaft length after inserting it into the trans and then backing it out 3/4 inch. The measurement from adaptor eye to input yoke eye center was 19 3/4 inches. The machine shop cut it to 19 1/2 inches. Will this be a problem and should I have it lengthened to 19 3/4 inches? Thanks Miles

I bought a rebuilt T5 WC for my 240Z engine install. The T5 is now bolted to the engine and on a hoist ready to install. When I had the T5 on the bench I noticed that it was difficult to shift gears. I could shift it through the gears and neutral , but it took some effort. I called the builder and was told that that was normal and once the trans is mounted in the car, and the engine turning the trans, that the trans would shift normally. Now that the trans is bolted to the engine I can't get it to shift into neutral. Is this because the gears just need to be spinning or something else. I don't want to complete the install and then have to pull it all out again. Thanks

I am separating the engine wires from the harness that runs along the passenger side of the 240Z in prepartion for the SBC install. The black wire in question originally bolted to the back of the alternator. On page 9-2 of the JTR book (7th ed) it says to "cut the black wire (ground) where it attaches to the thick 12 ga black wire" The book doesn't say what to do with the thick 12 ga black wire. I assume that the thick 12 ga wire is a ground. Should the thick 12 ga black wire be grounded (bolted) to the body of the car? Thanks Miles

I need the dust shield that attaches between the bellhousing and engine for an 89 WC T5. The GM p/n is 10241153, but is NLA. It listed new for $7.94. PM me. Miles Sacramento

David The rotors I received from Edan were also drilled for a Mustang. I called Edan and he echanged them with rotors drilled for the 240z lugs. It bothers me a little that the rotors are not hub centric. Miles

David Have you installed the Silvermine kit yet? I'd like to get your comments on the install. I have been busy getting ready to do the v8 swap into my 240Z and so have put the brake upgrade on the back burner for now. Miles

I am installing a MSD 8362 HEI on a GM crate engine. The MSD HEI distrbutor has a yellow tag that says to remove the stock oil bypass. How important is it to remove the oil bypass per MSD and will it have any negative consequnces if it is removed. Thanks Miles

I have the drilled & slotted rotors that came with Edan's kit, but prefer plane rotors so as not to eat up pads.

I purchased my kit from Edan about two months ago. I am going to order some non-drilled non-slotted rotors from Edan since my car will be a daily driver and I don't want to be eating up pads.

I have the same set up from Silvermine, but haven't installed yet. Do you see any problems with the installation yet? Also, will you be installing a proportioning valve?

I am getting my parts together to do the Wilwood PV install. I'll be removing the stock PV and tie into the lines that went to the stock PV just behind the tool boxes. The Wilwood PV will install in the passenger side tool box so I can reach it from inside. I bought two hard brake lines and two metric unions from Black Dragon and should get the NPT to metric adaptors tomorrow from Flyin Miata. The metric adaptors will make for a clean installation. This is in preparation for installing the Mustang rear brake kit sold here by Edan AKA Bajaracer. I called and emailed Wilwood suggesting that they stock these NPT to metric fittings. They basically brushed of the need to do so. Miles

1 Tuff Z I just ordered my brake kit from Edan. You mentioned that the e brake cables would have to be moved. Do you mean moving the e brake hanger springs to give more slack in the cable? Also, have you looked at how the e brake cable is connected to the caliper. Edan mentioned that there is a e brake bracket (?) that has to be reused/moved.

I found the Wilwood to metric adaptor at Flyin Miata. It is specifically made to fit the Wilwood proportioning valve: 1/8 -27 to 10mm x 1mm. p/n 14-76255 Link http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=&parentid=&stocknumber=14-76255

I am plumbing hard lines for a Wilwood proportioning valve (PV). The PV will be installed in the tool box behind the passenger seat. The easy way to connect the Datsun 10mm x 1mm brake line would be with a 1/8 NPT -27 to 10mm x 1mm adaptor that screws into the PV, but I can't find one here, Summit, local parts stores or local speed shops. The only solution seems to be going with a 1/8 NPT -27 to AN -3 male to AN -3 to 10mm x 1mm adaptor which results in an ugly stack up of parts. Does anyone make a 1/8 NPT -27 to 10mm x 1mm inverted flare adaptor?

Thanks for the links. I read the linked Hot Rod article and it ponts out that the pump doesn't work well for cold starts. So its back to the electric fuel pump as planned.

I came across a compact mechnical fuel pump for SBC that may work with the MSA engine mounting kit. It is made by Professional Products "Powerflow" product line. Anyone familiar with this pump? http://www.professional-products.com/ Part number 10730 Miles

Has anyone used the Dorman aluminum clutch slave cylinder for the T5? I have used a plastic Napa (UP 37821) T5 clutch slave, but was always concerned that it would melt from from it's proximity to the header. The Dorman is Summit part number DHB-CS37821 $49.95 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=cs37821&searchinresults=false&N=700+115&y=3&x=34 I'll use the McLeod clutch hose roll pin adaptor and a 24 or 26 inch -4 line to connect it to a Tilton 7/8" clutch master cylinder. Brain fart: I took apart an old T5 clutch hydraulic hose and removed the roll pin connector. It is just a hose barb pressed into the hose. Anyone ever make up a clutch hose using the T5 barbed roll pin connector from a wrecking yard? Miles

I'll use the original valve next to the heater. I was looking at my stock L24 heater lines and noticed that the bottom hose has a direction arrow indicating the inlet hose to the heater core. The outlet coming off of the SBC intake manifold is the the one that feeds the heater core and the heater return line connects to the nipple on the long sytle water pump. From what I have read it doesn't matter which hose gets the control valve. However, I would rather that I could cut off water flow into the interior since it gets plenty warm in there already. Thanks