Miles

I am installing a MSD 8362 HEI on a GM crate engine. The MSD HEI distrbutor has a yellow tag that says to remove the stock oil bypass. How important is it to remove the oil bypass per MSD and will it have any negative consequnces if it is removed. Thanks Miles

I have the drilled & slotted rotors that came with Edan's kit, but prefer plane rotors so as not to eat up pads.

I purchased my kit from Edan about two months ago. I am going to order some non-drilled non-slotted rotors from Edan since my car will be a daily driver and I don't want to be eating up pads.

I have the same set up from Silvermine, but haven't installed yet. Do you see any problems with the installation yet? Also, will you be installing a proportioning valve?

I am getting my parts together to do the Wilwood PV install. I'll be removing the stock PV and tie into the lines that went to the stock PV just behind the tool boxes. The Wilwood PV will install in the passenger side tool box so I can reach it from inside. I bought two hard brake lines and two metric unions from Black Dragon and should get the NPT to metric adaptors tomorrow from Flyin Miata. The metric adaptors will make for a clean installation. This is in preparation for installing the Mustang rear brake kit sold here by Edan AKA Bajaracer. I called and emailed Wilwood suggesting that they stock these NPT to metric fittings. They basically brushed of the need to do so. Miles

1 Tuff Z I just ordered my brake kit from Edan. You mentioned that the e brake cables would have to be moved. Do you mean moving the e brake hanger springs to give more slack in the cable? Also, have you looked at how the e brake cable is connected to the caliper. Edan mentioned that there is a e brake bracket (?) that has to be reused/moved.

I found the Wilwood to metric adaptor at Flyin Miata. It is specifically made to fit the Wilwood proportioning valve: 1/8 -27 to 10mm x 1mm. p/n 14-76255 Link http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=&parentid=&stocknumber=14-76255

I am plumbing hard lines for a Wilwood proportioning valve (PV). The PV will be installed in the tool box behind the passenger seat. The easy way to connect the Datsun 10mm x 1mm brake line would be with a 1/8 NPT -27 to 10mm x 1mm adaptor that screws into the PV, but I can't find one here, Summit, local parts stores or local speed shops. The only solution seems to be going with a 1/8 NPT -27 to AN -3 male to AN -3 to 10mm x 1mm adaptor which results in an ugly stack up of parts. Does anyone make a 1/8 NPT -27 to 10mm x 1mm inverted flare adaptor?

Thanks for the links. I read the linked Hot Rod article and it ponts out that the pump doesn't work well for cold starts. So its back to the electric fuel pump as planned.

I came across a compact mechnical fuel pump for SBC that may work with the MSA engine mounting kit. It is made by Professional Products "Powerflow" product line. Anyone familiar with this pump? http://www.professional-products.com/ Part number 10730 Miles

Has anyone used the Dorman aluminum clutch slave cylinder for the T5? I have used a plastic Napa (UP 37821) T5 clutch slave, but was always concerned that it would melt from from it's proximity to the header. The Dorman is Summit part number DHB-CS37821 $49.95 http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&Ntt=cs37821&searchinresults=false&N=700+115&y=3&x=34 I'll use the McLeod clutch hose roll pin adaptor and a 24 or 26 inch -4 line to connect it to a Tilton 7/8" clutch master cylinder. Brain fart: I took apart an old T5 clutch hydraulic hose and removed the roll pin connector. It is just a hose barb pressed into the hose. Anyone ever make up a clutch hose using the T5 barbed roll pin connector from a wrecking yard? Miles

I'll use the original valve next to the heater. I was looking at my stock L24 heater lines and noticed that the bottom hose has a direction arrow indicating the inlet hose to the heater core. The outlet coming off of the SBC intake manifold is the the one that feeds the heater core and the heater return line connects to the nipple on the long sytle water pump. From what I have read it doesn't matter which hose gets the control valve. However, I would rather that I could cut off water flow into the interior since it gets plenty warm in there already. Thanks

I am looking for a water control valve that I can hook the original Datsun heater water control cable to.

I searched for this, but couldn't find an answer. I want to be able to control the flow of hot water off to the heater core after I do the V8 swap in my 240z. Three questions: 1. The flow of water to the heater core is from the outlet on the intake-correct? 2. The heater return line connects to the nipple on the SBC long style water pump-correct? 3. What heater water control valve works best with the engine swap? Any pictures? Thanks Miles

See the MSA mounts on my picture site below. Easy to install. Easy to set driveline angle. Starting my second 240z V8 swap using the MSA kit.

I am starting another 240 V8 swap. Is there any difference between the JTR and the MSA hood latch bracket design? I heard somewhere that the MSA hood latch moves it towards the driver's side. True/false? In my research I see that one member simply moved his stock bracket towards the driver's side a few inches. It looks like a good approach and would save some money too. With this approach I would try to move the latch about 1 inch more. Thanks Miles

see my thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126175 Miles

where did you get the rear floor mat with the z emblem? The PO of my son's v8 240Z made it. When we sold the v8 Z I kept the rear mat. Any upholstry shop could add a Z to a rear deck mat. Miles

Check out my strut bar and shoulder harness install. The bar is very stout. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=126175 Miles

Terry I bought three sets of rear bushings one from VB, another one from Summit and finally a set from MSA. I had new strut pins from Nissan so I measured each set and also test fitted the sleeves over the strut pin. Thet were all very loose. I also complained to ES and they said that the sleeve ID was too big and that it was a known problem to them so they sent me a new set of sleeves. The ID of the new sleeves was also too large and they were sloppy on the strut pin as well. All of the sleeve IDs were too large so I eneded up picking the tightest sleeves from my expanding bag of rear urethene bushings. I am now considering finding another manufacturer of urethane bushings and just replace all of the rear bushings again. Vendors: Prothane, Energy Suspension any others that make bushings for 240Zs? I want to get this finalized so I can move on to rear disk brake swap and, finally, move on to my next V8 swap. Thanks Miles

Jason I'll try the Locktight. Thanks Miles

72 240Z: Approximately 6 months ago I replaced the stock rear control arm bushings with MSA urethane bushings because the outer passenger side pivit was clunking when shifting and going over bumps. The clunking went away with the new urethane bushings. Now the rear passenger control arm is clunking again when shifting. At least I think that I have narrowed it down to the control arm bushings. Last weekend I installed a tight 3.54 R200 with urethane mustache bushings, checked the U-joints and tightened all of the suspension bolts during re-assembly. And still I get a loud clunk from the passenger side. I also checked the stub axle flange and it is tight. The stub axles are new Nissan parts installed two years ago. What would cause new urethane bushings to act like the old stock worn out rubber bushings? Could the metal sleeves be defective? Could the sleeve ID too big allowing movement about the pivit pin? From searching the forum I know that the sleeves become locked in place once they are tightened down and the the bushing rotates around the sleeve, but it seems that if there was slop between the sleeve and the pivit pin the sleeve could move. Thanks Miles

I have found that pipe wrenches don't grip the gland nut very well and they do not apply enough twisting force to budge a stuck gland nut. I have looked at buying a $100 dollar spanner from Snap-On, but found a cheaper home garage approach that works: If you can get a good bite on the stuck gland nut, place the gland nut in a vice and twist the strut housing. This gives allows a better grip on the gland nut and more twisting leverage. I have removed both front and rear stuck gland nuts this way. With some help I removed the rear strut with the control arm attached and placed the gland nut in a vice and cranked it down real hard. Then using the control arm as a lever, twisted the strut assembly. The gland nut released its grip with very little effort. It is all about getting a good grip on the gland nut and leverage. With the front strut I used the spindle and a pipe as a leverage point. Be careful not to dent the threaded end of the strut tube which I did do when trying to remove a stuck gland nut with a pipe wrench. Miles

Lowdown I had the same problem on my first R200 install. I had the front mount flipped around. Are you using the stock 240Z half shafts? I am asking because I did this same swap 6 years ago in my son's 240Z v8 and had no problems, but recently became aware that the 240Z driver's side half shaft is too long to work well with the R200 and may bind the suspension. I also bought a R200 and a matching set of 78 280Z half shafts with the understanding that the left shaft is shorter to allow for the side bulge in the R200. Not so. I measured both left and right shafts fully collapsed and they are of equal length. Thanks Miles

Jon Sounds easy. Thanks Miles