Miles

Try the spring set from Arizona Z. They are 180 lb/in. front and 200 lb/in. rear and maintain the stock ride height. I have them in my 72 240Z with 350 SBC. The ride is a bit stiff, but I like it. The springs are shorter then stock, but because they are stiffer the car stays at stock height. Miles

Zline I am not familiar with the Z32. Is that a 280 or 280ZX code? Also, do you have to do any modifications to get those parts to work? THanks Miles

John Are you using the ZX MC and booster with stock calipers and drums? The reason I ask is I am planning on doing the toyata calipers and replacing the drum brakes with disk brakes on my 72 240Z. Since my MC needs replacing I thought that I would just put the 79 ZX MC and booster in now. I suspect that the pedal will have a stiffer feel until in get the brake upgrades done. Why does the ZX booster have to go in upside down? Any other mods? Thanks Miles

Here is a website with a step by step procedure for diagnosing low pedal brake problems. One of my 240Zs has this problem even after replacement of everything but the pipes. The procedure on the website calls for using line clamps on the brake lines. Can line clamps be used on SS lines without damaging them? http://www.winbrake.com/trainingmaterials/LowPedalDiagnosis.html This web site may be helpful to those who are pulling thier hair out trying to diagnose the cause of a low pedal. It gives a good description of the ever popular missing reaction disk problem. Thanks Miles

It does sound like a reaction disk problem, but I just installed a rebuilt power booster last week. How can you tell if the reaction disk has fallen out? There is a seal around the push rod. Does that seal pop out? Miles

I have completetly rebuilt my 72 240Z brakes over the last year. All parts are new and stock except for the hard lines. The MC is US built and installed three weeks ago. The MC was bench bled, bled on the car and all four corners have been bled using standard bleeding procdures and then using a power bleeder. The problem is I can not get a firm pedal with minimum travel before brakes start kicking in. The pedal doesn't seem to sink past a certain point and pumping doesn't improve the firmness. I just replaced the vacume booster and adjusted the push rod that goes into the MC cylinder. As measured from face of the spacer on the booster the length of the push rod is 9 mm. The depth of the stock 7/8 in. MC cylinder as measured from the face of the mounting flange is 10 mm leaving 1 mm space between the end of the push rod and the bottom of the hole it goes into. Still the pedal travels a good 2 inches before noticable braking action. While the brakes stop the car it takes increasing pressure to really get the car to slow down. I know there is something wrong because at one time the pedal was firm with a 1/4 in. of free travel and the brakes would put you up against the seat belt with just normal pedal pressure. It almost seems like the fronts are doing all of the braking. Should I increase the length of the push rod? From searching old posts this is a common complaint for both stock brakes and brake upgrades. I am about to rip out the stock stuff and do the complete vented rotor, 15/16 in. MC and rear disks. By contrast, I rebuilt the stock brakes on my son's V8 72 240Z almost two years ago. The brakes work well and I have not had to do anything to them since. Any help is appreaciated. Miles

For a stock 72 SBC with a points style distributor: I hooked up a hand vacume pump to the hose that goes to the vacume advance. I pumped up the vacume and watched for the plate that the points are attached to move. It didn't move. I also noticed that the plate was loose and wobbled around. I checked the timing with a timing light. The timing jumped around due to the plate being loose. I replaced the worn distributor with a rebuiilt unit which also included a new vacume advance. Now the engine runs smooth, starts easy and has better throttle response. Miles

Drax Which Tokico springs and what spring rates? I have seen them advertised in MSA as 25% stiffer then stock which would be about 125 lb/in. ??? I put the Arizona springs in my V8 240Z and it is a little stiff. The Arizona springs are shorter than stock but are stiff enough (180 front, 200 rear) that the ride height remains stock. Miles

I used a Hotronics quick flip master battery disconnect that has a hidden remote toggle switch that kills all power from the battery as a theft deterrent. The starter button is mounted in the cigarette lighter hole. One side of the button has a hot wire I pulled in and the other side is connected to the original starter wire that goes to the starter solinoid. You could just pull another wire between the button and the soloinoid. Now the only way the car can be started and ran is for the master disonnect switch to be toggled on. Hotronics: http://www.hotronicsproducts.com 714-971-8543 Miles

Thanks for the feedback. I have replaced most of the brake parts except for the PV valve, brake switch and the hard pipes and the pedal travels too far before the brakes engage and then I have to push firmly to get the car to stop. The max vac holds vacume and the vacume line is hooked up right and I have bled and adjusted the rears. I think air may still be an issue, but I cant locate the leak. Miles

I am going to replace the master vac in my 72 240Z and spent some time researching parts suppliers for the best price. Quality is also a concern. I would appreciate your opinions/experience for the following rebuilt max vac units: Autozone: $82.00 ARI rebuilt or $99.00 Cordone rebuilt Carquest: $114.95 Cordone rebuilt Napa: $114.49 Cordone rebuilt MSA: $149.95 rebuilt by MSA supplier unkown Vicoria British: $129.95 supplier unkown Thanks Miles

I copied Dan's bracket design after my throttle cable broke twice due to imperfect alignment through the firewall. For the cable part I used a Lokar cable kit to connect from the bell crank to the carb. It works well and is very smooth. You have to modify the stock connection to the bell crank for it to receive the Lokar cable end. Miles

Re: 72 vs 73 240z master cylinder differences I have had trouble with a master cylinder that was installed on my 72 240z 1 year ago by a brake shop. I looked up the master cylinder in a Haynes and Chilton manual. Both manuals show the large reservoir towrds the front of the cylinder for the 70 - 72 model 240z. For the 70-72 MC the Haynes manual labeled the smaller reservoir near the max vac as the "drum brake" reservoir and the larger reeservoir at the front of the MC as "disk brake" reservoir. On 73- 78 MCs the reservoirs are shown to be reversed. On the 73 - 78 MCs the outlets are labeled "R" at the front of the MC and "F" near the max vac end of the MC. On the 73 -78 MCs the large reservoir is near the max vac end of the MC. Here is the rub. The MC installed on my 72 240Z looks like the 73 - 78 model MC. With the large (F) reservoir near the max vac end of the MC. Is this a problem or are the MCs interchangable and the reservoirs are just switched? Thanks Miles

I found the antenna at Kragan for about $50.00. It works good, but makes an anoying whiring sound after it is fully up/down. I had to make two brackets to stablize the lower portion of the antenna. Thanks Miles

Marcus I had the same problem that was caused by one of the side marker lights shorting out. It kept blowing a fuse that took out the instrument lights and the tail lights. Are your marker lights out too? Miles

I am installing a Sony stereo system in my 240Z and I want to replace the old stock antenna that is actuated by a switch under the dash with an antenna that can be raised/lowered by the stereo antenna control wires. Is there a universal power antenna that fits/works in the stock position? Thanks Miles

Does anyone know the color codes for the stock 72 240Z stereo wiring harness? I down loaded the color codes for a 300ZX and it has some of the same colors as the 240Z harness, but there must have been changes between the 240Z and the 300ZX. Thanks Miles

Yes it was for an 86 Camero T-5 BH chevy part number 10241153 for $7.94 back in 2001. Miles

I installed a 74 SBC with a 86 Camaro T5 trans using the tilted bell housing. I went to a chevy dealer and bought the shield and bolts for about $20.00 as I recall. All I had to do was to remove the starter to install the dust shield. Miles

When I step on the brakes in my stock 240Z I hear and feel a clunk from the brake pedal. Usually this happens just once when I first take off after being parked for awhile. I checked the front calipers and they are tight and normal. Any ideas? Thanks Miles edit The brake pedal also drops about a 1/2 inch when I hear the clunk.

You could own 2 Zs. I have a stock daily driver 240Z and a V8 240Z I built for my son for about $5,000.00. When I need an adrenalin rush I take the V8 out for awhile. Get the JTR book and read it 3 or 4 times before you start your project. Also, mine this forum using the search feature. Almost every question I had concerning the swap was answered here. Driving a V8 z is the second best feeling. Miles

Wayne Thanks for the info. I'll check all of this out next week when I have the axels out to replace the u-joints. Miles

I replaced all brake parts new about a year ago. I have to readjust the rear shoes about every two weeks. The adjusters on the wheel cylinders rotate freely. I have had this problem with stock Datsun shoes, Carquest shoes and now with shoes from KVR. When adjusted the brakes are good. Any ideas what I should look for? Thanks Miles

Use Japanese made products for your ignition. They just seem to be of better quality. Miles

Brad I sent you an email. Thanks Miles