Miles

Yes it was for an 86 Camero T-5 BH chevy part number 10241153 for $7.94 back in 2001. Miles

I installed a 74 SBC with a 86 Camaro T5 trans using the tilted bell housing. I went to a chevy dealer and bought the shield and bolts for about $20.00 as I recall. All I had to do was to remove the starter to install the dust shield. Miles

When I step on the brakes in my stock 240Z I hear and feel a clunk from the brake pedal. Usually this happens just once when I first take off after being parked for awhile. I checked the front calipers and they are tight and normal. Any ideas? Thanks Miles edit The brake pedal also drops about a 1/2 inch when I hear the clunk.

You could own 2 Zs. I have a stock daily driver 240Z and a V8 240Z I built for my son for about $5,000.00. When I need an adrenalin rush I take the V8 out for awhile. Get the JTR book and read it 3 or 4 times before you start your project. Also, mine this forum using the search feature. Almost every question I had concerning the swap was answered here. Driving a V8 z is the second best feeling. Miles

Wayne Thanks for the info. I'll check all of this out next week when I have the axels out to replace the u-joints. Miles

I replaced all brake parts new about a year ago. I have to readjust the rear shoes about every two weeks. The adjusters on the wheel cylinders rotate freely. I have had this problem with stock Datsun shoes, Carquest shoes and now with shoes from KVR. When adjusted the brakes are good. Any ideas what I should look for? Thanks Miles

Use Japanese made products for your ignition. They just seem to be of better quality. Miles

Brad I sent you an email. Thanks Miles

I could only find one wrecking yard in Sacramento that has a used R180. It is in bad shape and they want $250.00 for it. I just want a stock replacement. I found 3 R200 differentials at a Pick n Pull, but I don't want to do a conversion at this time. Thanks Miles

The R180 differential in my 72 240Z needs to be rebuilt. How much should I expect to pay for the rebuild and are there any reliable shops in the Sacramento area? Thanks Miles

Carquest also has these hoses: Top hose Dayco #70651 = Carquest 20710 had to trim 1 ft and use a 1 1/2 in. to 1 1/4 in. adaptor. Looks like a stock hose. Bottom hose Dayco #71217 = Carquest 21150 perfect fit I just switched back to the Camaro radiator after my aluminium Griffin sprung a leak. Miles

Will a 280z grill with the integral signal lights fit in a 72 240? If so what year 280z grill fits? Thanks Miles

Cab anyone explain this? To check the function of my Autometer gas gauge (for a Ford)I hooked up a new sending unit to the sensor and ground leads near the fuel tank using some long test leads. Sitting in the car and moving the float on the sensor up and down simulating a full or empty tank the Autometer gauge worked perfectly showing a full sweep from empty to full. But once I installed the sensor in the fuel tank the gauge just sat on empty with a full tank. I was able to get the fuel gauge needle to sweep through 1/4 to 3/4 marks on the gauge by using 27 ohm resister connected between the sensing wire at the gas tank and ground. Why would the gauge work with the fuel level sensor out of the car, but not after it was installed in the tank? Has anyone solved this? What values of R1 and R2 seem to work? Thanks Dog

Problem solved Number 6 exhaust valve was way out of adjustment. Also got rid of all old cheap ignition parts and installed a new OEM distributor, NGK plugs and wires followed by fine tuning the new Ztherapy carbs. Car now runs like it came out of the factory. Miles

I had this happen to my 240z. It would start and quit or quit on braking or hard turns. The wires that attach to the coil had connectors that were corroded and loose. I put new connectors on and the problem is fixed. Miles

I ran a compression test, adjusted the valves and hooked up a vacume guage. Compression: Cylinder/PSI 1/150 2/150 3/149 4/145 5/145 6/ 125 (190 with shot of oil) All cylinders held pressure. Vacume guage connected to the master vac connection on the balance tube shows a vibrating guage reading. The needle vibrates vigorously between 15 in. hg and 16.5 in. hg. I have noted that there is one tapet clacking and had a shop adjust the valves about 3 months ago. The valve continued to clack and there was a noticable drop in power. Yesterday I checked the valve clearances hot and cold using the appropriate valve clearances. They all were adjusted so tight that a feeler guage would not fit between the valve stem and the tappet. I readjusted the valves cold at 0.008 in. (intake) and 0.010 exhaust so that the gauge made a stiff sliding fit between the valve stem and the tappet. The clacking valve is still present and the engine still runs rough through all speeds. The misfire is most noticable at idle especially when cold. All of the ignition parts are new except for the coil. I am going to swap in a spare coil today to see if that helps. Since the compression on cylinder 6 was lower then the rest of the cylinders, could the head gasket have sprung a leak near cylinder 6? I have checked the usual places for vacum leaks using carb spray and water. The carb gaskets seemed to leak so I replaced them. The carbs are new rebuilt from Ztherapy. Anything in a new rebuilt carb that would cause the engine to misfire? What could cause the clacking valve if the valve clearances are ok? Thanks Miles

I pulled each plug wire off at the distributor cap and there was no rpm drop on number 3 cylinder. Then I pulled the plug wires off at the the plugs and there was no rpm drop at the number 3 cylinder. On all of the cylinders other then number 3 there was a rpm drop when a plug wire was removed. Could this be a burnt or out of adjustment valve? Thanks Miles

I installed rebuilt SUs from Z Therapy about 2 months ago to fix a rough, misfiring L24. It ran well for about 2 1/2 months and then started running rough like a bad plug or ignition problem. It also seemed to be losing power. I checked the ignition for misfiring clues even though all of the parts are new. The ignition seems to be working as it should. Then I checked for intake leaks. The carb gaskets leaked when I shot them with carb cleaner so I replaced them. The car still misses and idles rough especially when it's cold. The misfire improves as the car warms up. The engine does not have the power it used to have. Up until now it pulled hard and I could spin the tires in 1st and 2ed gear. The car sounds like: rrrrrrrrrrrrr blump rrrr blump blump rrrrrrrrrrr blump blump blump rrrrrr blump ................... I did have the valves adjusted just before I installed the rebuilt carbs. Could this be a burnt valve? What would the symptoms be if a valve is bad? Thanks Miles

I just bought some new shoes for my 240Z from KVR and the drums won't fit over them. The adjusters are turned all the way in. I ended up reinstalling the old shoes so I could use the car. The old shoes fit good. Do the new shoes need to be arced. Thanks Miles

Drax I advanced the distributor as far as the set screw would allow and under a timing light the timing mark is right at TDC. With the no. 1 cylinder at TDC center the rotor is pointing a few degrees past the no. 1 connector on the distributor cap. I tried moving the rotor by loosening the distributer, lifting it, and repositioning the rotor to line up with the number one connector in the cap. When I drop the distributor back in it either wont go in due to the rotor position or it will only drop into place if the rotor is back to its' original position. It seems that when the distributor is lifted and the rotor turned it will only go back in one way. I am assuming that the drive is slotted in a way that only allows it to be installed one way. Using a timing light I can turn the distributor clockwise and retard the spark alot, but can't get much advance going the other way. Thanks Miles

Just doesn't sound like it would work. The reason this came up is that my engine lacks throttle response since I installed new Ztherapy SUs. After tuning the carbs I dailed in max advance, but the timing light shows that I am dead on TDC at idle. Throttle response is a little better, but not like with my old carbs. Thanks Miles

A friend just told me that I could maximize the advanced timing of my L24 by flipping the rotor 180 degrees. Is that true? Seems like it would result in severe misfiring. Miles

I just bought a set of 240Z brake shoes from KVR. The person I talked to at KVR said I would need to chamfer the leading and trailing edges of the shoes before I Installed them. I have never heard of this before. If true, how much of the edge needs to be chamfered? Thanks Miles

Jeff If you don't watch the driveliveline phasing you may end up bolting the trans mount too high or too low which will result in driveline vibration. Don't just measure 5 1/2 in. from the output shaft to the tunnel. Remember driveline phasing is an issue when doing the hybrid setup. I first measured the angle of the differential input shaft using an angle finder and then figured the angle of the trans output shaft needed to get everything in phase. Then I bolted the transmission mount to the transmission tailstock and then held an angle finder on the end of the output shaft while my son slowly jacked the transmission and mount up towards the tunnel. When the output shaft was about 5 1/2 in. from the tunnel I watched the angle finder until I had the angle I needed to get the trans and rearend properly aligned. With some fine up/down adjustments I was able to dial-in the correct angle before I bolted the mount to the driveline tunnel. Once in place lock up your jack so it won't move and go to the hole finding and drilling step inside of the car. Hole drilling step: The other tricky part is drilling the holes for the mount. There is no room under the car so you will have to drill from topside. Just use a very small drill to find the holes in the mount by eyeballing the location of each mount hole and then try to hit the hole with the small drill bit from inside of the car. You may have to drill 2 or 3 small holes until you hit the center of the mount hole. I usually got it on thre 2ed try. Once located drill your bolt hole and install a bolt and nut to hold things in place. Repeat until done. It is easier to do then to explain. My driveline phaing is perfect with no vibrations. MIles

I used the MSA kit to install my 350 sbc and T5 trans/bellhouing. The shifter comes right up in the hole and using a B&M shifter corrects the bellhousing 15 deg. offset. You can see photos of the mounts at my web site below. Miles