Miles

Thanks for the checklist. I'll get under the car this weekend and go through the list. Miles

Buy the rebuild kit from Ztherapy as it has an improved needle valve assembly to prevent overfilling the float chamber which may flood the carb. The stock and cheap rebuild valves can cause flooding and a fire. I also recommend buying the Ztherapy SU video. Miles

I had this same problem on my 240z. It was due to a loose/corroded wire going from the bias resistor to the coil. I knew it was this particular to look for because each time the engine quit the tach would go to zero instantly indicating it had been cut out of the circuit. I replaced the connector and no more cutting out. Check your ignituion wiring. Miles

While at freeway speed today I noticed that my stock 240Z was vibrating. I could feel the vibration through my seat and through the shifter. The vibration seems to go away when coasting with the clutch in. I feel the vibration just sitting with the car running at different RPMs. The engine runs really good and I recently just installed a set of rebuilt SU carbs from Ztherapy. Any ideas or things I should check for? Thanks Miles

What year rotors and calipers are used and will I have to swap out the 240z MC for a zx MC? I haven't seen this swap on the forum before. It appears to be easier then the Toyota swap. Thanks Miles

I just came across a break upgrade for 240z using 300zx rotors and 280 zx calipers for at zandzxparts.com. Has any one here tried this combination on a 240z? The web site claims a 50% improvement in brake performance based on a $600 kit. Seems pricy for what you get. Miles

I mounted a Wilwood pv in the tool box behind the passenger seat and plumbed it to the the lines that went to the stock pv also just behind the passenger tool box. I used braided SS brake lines and some metric to standard adapters I got from a local off-road vehicle shop. I can adjust the pv easily from the driver's seat and the pv is protected from getting knocked out of adjustment. Prior to installing the pv the rears would lock up. Then I added some KVR pads up front and the V8 Z now stops without rear lock up or fading. Someone here has pic on this pv set up. Miles

I just bought a set of slotted mags with new tires for $150. I had them balenced and mounted on my72 240Z and one or more of the tires appeared out of balence. So I returned to the place that balanced and mounted the mags only to end up having them tell me the problem is that the bolt holes have become worn. They snapped off three studs on the left rear wheel trying to get it off so I could put my old rims back on. I went to another tire shop and repeated what I had been told and the guy told me that older mags can develop worn bolt holes and cause the lugs to become seized up on the studs. So what to do? Is there a solution or am I out $150. ??? Thanks Miles

I am located in Sacramento. It gets hot here. Miles

Yes the 22" x 19" Griffin will work. I have one in my 240Z and the sbc 350 runs at 180 degrees on all but the hottest days. No boil overs in 14 months of operation. There is a gap on each side of the radiator. I bought the 22" beacause I mis-measured the distance between the frame rails (it was dark). The Griffin will need to be rubber mounted top and bottom. I am also using a Black Magic electric fan that works well, but does draw a lot of amps making starting a bit slow when the starter gets heat soaked. This weekend I am installing a gear reduction starter and a high amp battery to help with the starter heat soak problem. Miles

Having trouble posting and searching. Can you fix? Thanks Miles

Mike With the MSA mounts there is no room to mount a stock mechanical fuel pump. I bought a Holly from Tognotti's. I haven't got around to installing a oil pressure cut switch. There is not much room between the distributor and the fire wall so I have been investigateing using a hole that is plugged off next to where the oil filter screws to the 74 SBC block. I heard somewhere that you can install a pressure tranducer in that unused plugged hole. If anyone knows what that plugged hole is for let me know. It is right next to the oil filter on my 74 SBC. Let me know how your project is going. Miles

Email, including phone number, me today and I'll take for a ride here in Sacramento. Or post your phone number here. Note car may be sold Saturday. snafu23@prodigy.net Miles

Just put a rebuilt starter on a 350 sbc three weeks ago. Worked great until tonight when hitting the starter button resulted in nothing happening. Hit the button two more times and the main fuse blew. Replaced the fuse after letting the car sit awhile and it started. There is a dead short somewhere. Could it be the rebuilt starter soliniod? Thanks Miles

I think it is time to replace the Sus on my stock 72 240Z. Engine idle is very ragged and the engine surges at low speed. The problem has been getting worse over the last month or so. No amount of mixture adjustment improves the problem. I can turn the mixture knob all of the way to max lean and the engine rpm doesn't change and there is no off throttle backfire. The engine bay and exhaust smell like raw gas. I am going to spring for the $600.00 and buy a pair SUs from Ztherapy. Hope this cures the problem. Miles

What can I do if fuel is boiling in the bowels? Thanks Miles

Jaime I went to my local off road vehicle shop (Teegarden Motorsports Specialties) here in Sacramento and bought some stainless steel flex lines and -3 male to 10 mm x 1 to adaptor fittings and then mounted the Wilwood proportioning valve in the passenger side tool box. I then drilled two holes in the back of the tool box near the stock proportioning valve to route the flex lines to the where the stock PV is located. After removing the stock proportioning valve I connected the stainless flex lines to the brake lines where they connected to the stock valve using the metric to standard adaptors I bought at the off road shop. The PV keeps the stock rear brakes from locking up due to the lack of weight in the back end of my son's 240z. My plan was to eventually put toyota calipers and 300zx rotors on the front, but my son is now thinking about selling the car. For now we are just using stock front rotors with KVR pads. The brakes IMO are just average and would benefit more from the toyota/300zx upgrade. The PV does not allow you to completely turn off the rear brakes. Someone else in the forum did the same mount as I did except he used hard lines instead of flex lines. Miles

I am going with the ZT carbs. MSA is a PITA too often. Thanks Miles

Z Therapy and MSA both sell rebuilt SU carbs for my 72 Z for about the same price. Has anyone bought SU carbs from either company and were there any problems? Thanks Miles

I have three problems with an Edelbrock performer 1406 carb that have me strumped. 1. Throttle response off-idle is good until the engine gets good and hot. Once running for about 20 minutes the off-idle response becomes sluggish (not a bog). Advancing the timing helps a little, but I don't think that is the problem. 2. Engine quits sometimes after about five miles. Let it sit a few minutes and then it starts up, goes about a mile and then quits. I took the top off of the carb and found the float bowels about half full when it quit last time. 3. Engine quits after hitting a bump, on hard turns and hard stops. One Hybrid member suggested that I install an Edelbrock spring loaded needle valve kit which worked for him. I am going to do this next week. I have rebuilt the carb once and cleaned it three times. On the first cleaning I did find small bits of rubber in the needle valve screens. Thanks Miles

74 SBC with T5 trans: The starter motor cast iron casing that bolts to the engine and fits inside of the bell housing cracked and split causing the drive gear to bind. It was a used starter. What would cause the casing to receive that much stress? Could too much advanced timing or backfiring while the starter is engaged cause the casing to fail. I was playing with the timing a while back and had a lot of advance cranked causing the engine to be hard starting. I am installing a new starter and don't want to waste $$$ if it might break again Thanks

I checked with a speed shop last year here in Sacramento. The guy told me he could make a -3 line with roll pin connectors. I can recheck this and provide a contact if you are interested. Miles

Hickl Here are my part numbers. Verify these p/n 's with Lee/parts strore: F150 Clutch MC - NAPA p/n 39560 (don't recall which year F150) Camaro Clutch Slave - NAPA p/n 37821 ( mine was for an 89 Camaro BH) Hydrualic Hose - Ford Dealer p/n E3TZ - 7A512 - A Tube Assembly Kit The only problem I had with this set up was where the MC push rod connectes to the clutch pedal. The Ford MC has an "eye" at the end of the push rod instead of a fork as on the Datsun. I had to use a clevis pin through the "eye" to connect the push rod to the clutch pedal. After about a year the "eye" in the push rod wore and started binding so I had to install a bushing in the "eye . This may not be a problem for you as the previous owner of my son's Z had butchered the clutch pedal MC attachment point when he fabbed up an old GM brake MC for use as a clutch MC. The geometry of the push rod and clutch pedal was not right so I replaced the clutch pedal with good one from a wrecking yard. It works fine now. I think a 7/8 in. bore Tilton MC and a custom -3 stainless hose with roll pin connectors would also work with the Camaro clutch slave unit. Have fun! Miles

Hickl I also did the Ford F150 set up for my 89 Camaro T5 trans and BH. I'll go check my part numbers and repost here later today. Note that the MC does not just pop into the fire wall. You may have to grind the hole in the firewall a little larger and the bolt holes on mine did not mach the studs on Ford MC so I had to redrill the bottom hole as I recall. Once it was in and bled it works very smooth. On my next project I am going to use a Tilton MC and have a -3 stainless hose made up with the roll pin connectors instead of modifying the Camaro slave cylinder per JTR. You can see the Ford set on my son's web site below. Miles

Things just got worse. Went to start the engine and two puffs of smoke shot out of the carb followed by the starter grinding and struggling to turn the engine over. Now the engine won't turn over and the starter just makes a grinding noise. Could this be a slipped or broken timing chain or loose cam drive gear? This all came on a week or so ago and has slowly gotten worse to the point of engine lockup. Should I pull the timing chain cover or just junk the engine? Thanks Miles