John Scott

Been running my Mallory 140 for 5 years in the stock pump location, bracket slightly modified. Its really pretty quiet, especially with the big lines. Why not change brands? John

First I'll state the best safety equipment is going to be common sense. Brakes, yes. Still not sure on the rollcage idea. Let's see, doors paper thin, rest of the car built like a beer can. Seems like a good idea, but I recall some posts stating a roll cage, unless designed by NASA was going cause more bodily harm than good, on the street. I probaly won't be wearing my helmet on the street. My old stock 72 body still seems pretty ridgid, jacking up the front left tire, raise the front right and drivers side left rear, three off the ground, and still easily open the doors. I have a good concrete trade coming for some welding work, but need a relaible plan for cage. I'm more concerned with a design to saving my bones than setting records at the autoX. John

Just throwing out an idea. I had a coil which caused an intermittent dying problem, loss of power. Good healthy spark sometimes, but eventually got bad enough to diagnose and replace. So rare to have a coil go I disregarded it at first since it would throw a good spark. After dying it would be really weak. Good luck, John

Next purchass is going to be headers. Last chance for someone to let me know what fits w/o the trial and error. BLKMGK, did you ever get the Rewarders on? Unless there's another model someone has had success with, that's the brand I'm going to use. John

Don't get up to 115, though we've been 100+ a few times last week. Never thought about the altitude thing on cap pressures. I'd guess 15 psi in a sealed radiator at sea level is 15 psi up here. Just less dense on the outside. The higher altitude also makes water boil at a lower temp, too, but again in a sealed system, maybe not an issue. Something to ponder as I crawl around under the Z today. Thanks nullbound Its ordered!! I'll be going with the extra cost of the 1.25. Embarassing when you blow your coolent at the drive through at Wendys. I'd rather go a little strong and pay more. When Griffin says "RACE ONLY" what does that mean for street use/daily driver? John

Time to get a radiator. Does anyone know if the Grifffin 19X24 can be ordered in a 1.25X2 row? Its damn hot here this summer and I don't want any problems. John

Streetstreetstreet There's ALWAYS a faster car at the track. Very few really fast cars on the road. Just saw a parade of just been to the drag- ricers with 15 second dial ins. HAhaha! Through the exhaust, street legal Viper-Wiper, for me! John

Note from Phantomgrip today. I mentioned there was no specific figures for block clearance, if any clearance but touching would be OK, and that mine had .7mm. Also asked if ls additive was needed or a specific fluid. Breakin recommendation? Also mentioned mine would be pushing a pretty healthy amount of hp. Reply was friendly and blunt. "Your clearance is fine, whatever fluid worked best for you in the past is fine to use now. Phantomgrip has been tested up to 600hp with great success." No mention of break-in procedure. Where are you guys getting the info? Was it from Pg? John

Procharger fits under the hood and need no air box for carb, just a low profile hat. Fits closer than most aircleaners. I think the big problem is finding room for the compressor (in the JTR position) since it ends up in the middle of the strut tower. We know they can fit in other engine positions, (Darius) or some of the new reverse rotation compressors might offer new mounting solutions. John

72, but the 200 rear is from a 78 I believe. I grabbed the 1/2s from the donor car and put them in mine, never measured them. Of the four I have they all compress to the same length +/- 1/8" Extended I have one, original 240 r180 that is about 1" longer than the rest. Apparently I've been using the same shorter(when extended) on both sides. On the removal topic, I'd guess I was trying to shortcut the r&r and should have pulled the wheel stub side as well. Since you remove the bolts alltogether, unlike the fixed studs on the stub side, it would probably drop out. Maybe I'll remember this next time, hahahahaha! John

So why is my driver's side 1/2 shaft impossible to remove. Fully compressed it wouldn't clear. Had to remove mustache bar and front mount. I have two sets of 1/2 shafts. They all seem to be about the same length. Is there a diff in length? How much? Long one on the drivers side? Don't remember this much trouble going in. John

So its in. Best to remove rear from car. Pop out stub axles. Remove ring gear. Note l/r and up/down position of side bearing caps. Remove differential unit. Drive out roll pin. Spider gear retaining pin should push out w/finger pressure, at least mine did. Find out Phantom grip is way too tight. I removed matierial from inside of blocks. I don't understand why Phantomgrip doesn't state a clearance. Maybe as long as it isn't metal to metal its cool. Mine has about .7mm between blocks. Found out we already have the strongest spring so don't bother asking about the spring tuning kit. Once the blocks are compressed, pull retainting clip pegs out a bit and use a good quaility small diam. hose clamp to keep the blocks together. as you release tension from your vise or press, keep tightening the clamps until snug. Once in the diff and spider retainting pin is placed, pop off clamps and don't forget to remove the pins. Directions are lame. With all the variables in rear clearances, I'd guess they have their butts covered with a good amount of spring tension. Anyway, now I can run my gas line w/o much in the way while I wait for rear cover gasket and needed axle seals. John

Mines up in the air, no gas tank and pretty easy access to everything. Tomorrow has Z written all over it. My only experience comes from chevy, olds rears. Details, please. My dog ate my Z repair manual, really, he did. Looks like a previous post listed the side bearing cap spec @ 65-72 lb/ft. Ls additive? Burnouts required? How come the Phantomgrip website and my directions don't say anything about these? John

Let me know if its the 72-78 mount, the one I need, or the 70-71. John

Got my little white box from scca today. Can't find any info on the break in requirements. So what's the routine again? As Jwelch asked, do you need to remove the entire diff. for the installation? John

Jim, You've got mail! How 'bout sending it my way?John

Is the solid mount from msa that objectionable? John

From a good performance and easiest to install with no clearance issues, the 2100 hooker block hugger is hard to beat. Full length are always preferable, but have more clearance issues. Positioning in the Hooker,/scarab or JTR are also a consideration as to what headers will fit. You'll read of perfect length tuned headers, but the fact is unless you have them custom fabricated, some compromise will be in order fitting them in the Z chassis. Healthy 400+ hp w/ 3" single exhaust are using the 2100s. John

For a performance engine, long duration ect, check your vacuum in neutral if standard trans, in drive if auto. Use a power valve about 2#s lower than vacuum reading. Example if you have a reading of 8.5", go to a #6.5 power valve. For more of a stock engine the vacuum reading will be taken at a steady cruise speed. John

Beautiful, Pete!! A real lesson of what can be done with patience, persistance, and attention to detail. I can't imagine how you could keep the spark going for so long. Congratulations! Though my end result would make you cringe in its lack of refinement, I can't wait for our first outing. Up the Thompson canyon for dinner in Estes park. My wife even wants to drive it one way! John

Used to have a 600 dblpmpr w/ 700r4. As long as the placement of the hole is the right distance from center on the bellcrank, and tv adjusted correctly it worked perfectly for 5 years. Don't have all the measurements anymore. John

Sorry no dig cam. Tank venting is an issue discussed before. I don't have the evap. canister. How big of a hole in gas cap is necessary to keep vacuum from building in tank? Can't find the posts. I decided to peen all the vent tubes shut, except the one I'll use for return line, and epoxy ends. Maybe should have left the smallest one open and run a line down?? I used a one way check valve on my fuel regulator (mallory boost referenced) to keep a consistant pump pressure at 0- vacuum. I wonder if plumbing this into a vent line so air can be drawn into tank freely would work. Does the tank need to be vented for pressure relief? John

Still on jackstands for round two. 1/2" of dust on everything...but a 383 smallblock w/215 ported Pro1 heads, 250 something .600+ 108 lsa solid roller, victor jr, demon carb, 11:1...is just around the corner. One of the definitions of being married with children: What used to take a weekend, now takes a year or more. John

You have your transfer case in neutral...seriously, maybe your parking pawl? John

I noted the drain let out another 1/2 gallon after the pump was sucking air from the stock pick up. Let the tank air dry for a few days in the 100+ degree temps in the back yard. Stilled smelled stong fuel fumes, stuck the hose from a blower into the inlet, ran air until it smelled fresh. Real scientific, huh? Loaded the drain plug hole and drill bit with heavy grease and went REAL slow. The 3/8-18 tap recommended a 37/64 drill(yeah right, like you find one of those at the local true value Hardware) and took it real slow. Metal for the drain seemed real soft. Good. Ran in the tap also loaded with heavy grease. I'm not sure this was a safe method since I stilled smelled fumes, so I don't recommend anyone else doing this... I didn't blow myself to kingdom come, but still think getting it boiled out would be a safer way to go. Besides it's hard to drill with one foot on the tank, eyes shut, and a finger in your ear. Made a gasket from annealed copper, and the fittings are in. I used the 1/2" elbo with threads trimmed down to the height of the drain plug threads. Don't want it sticking up in the tank. Now just to run the lines to the filter, pump, regulator, and carb. Then replace my return of braided to the driver's side 1/2" fitting REAR of the tank. Plenty of flare fittings for few $$ from the local Home Depot. 25' of aluminum line. Phantom grip, and Nittos to arrive Friday. I really need a good weekend to get some work done. John