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Tim240z

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Everything posted by Tim240z

  1. Tim240z
    The powdered metal connecting rods in your LT1 will give out way before your main caps begin to walk. Two bolt main caps, esp. if you get a set of ARP studs, will hold a goodly amount of stress. Other areas of the stock system are the weak points, not your mains. Tim
  2. Tim240z
    Looks like the directional tires are the wrong way around?
  3. Tim240z
    What you need is an 'anti-hijack immobiliser' What it does is, if within 30 seconds of starting the car a secret button isn't pushed, the engine will die. They are designed that way so that if you are 'car-jacked' at gun point, the thief will be quite a distance away from you before finding out that he's screwed. Do some searches for anti hijack immobilisers. Tim
  4. Tim240z
  5. Tim240z
    Replace: Ball joints ~$40/pair Tie Rod Ends ~$45/pair Inner control arm bushings TC rod bushings Steering coupler. That should all but completely get rid of it.
  6. Tim240z
    I am running 245/45-16s all around. Tim
  7. Tim240z
    I did finally get them, Kevin. I will shrink and post. Tim
  8. Tim240z
    What you gonna do now....spend the big $$$ for the LS1
  9. Tim240z
    I will absolutely agree with the budget and time factor. I figured my conversion would take 6 months and about $3grand. Both have been exceeded by 10 times that, without exageration!! It's not for the faint of heart!! Sure, you can do the conversion for under $3k, but it will be a pile of crap, not show quality for sure!!! Tim
  10. Tim240z
    I need to take a cold shower!!! Gorgeous!!!!
  11. Tim240z
    You were right!! Reprogramming as we speak....gotta love tunercat!!!! Thanks
  12. Tim240z
    Mike, I can't find that DTC in the tables, but if you say it's there, I will look again!
  13. Tim240z
    Can any of you really smart guys out there tell me this: What resistance (read resistor) is the vapor purge solenoid for the LT1? I keep getting DTC 26, which I am assuming is because I don't have the purge solenoid in place (don't have it anymore). So I thought that maybe I can just put a resistor in place, or series of resistors, but what values? Thanks, Tim
  14. Tim240z
    You could get a carb 'hat' and then use some ducting to a K&N cone style filter
  15. Tim240z
    That is one angry sounding engine!!!
  16. Tim240z
    nothing as of 09h58 Friday 13th. Which address are you sending to? tp2txh@earthlink.net?
  17. Tim240z
    Yup, looks like the site didn't like me linking their images. Bottom line: You want the mounts from teh 69-71 Chevy truck.
  18. Tim240z
    While I whole heartedly agree Davy, Many people, because of their wealth, feel that they are above the law. I'm sure it's the same up there, but here in LA, all you have to do is watch how the folks with $100K plus cars drive.....total disregard for others on the road!! A good motto to have: Don't wish for what you want, want what you have! Tim
  19. Tim240z
    Hey Van! Here are some basics: http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/148_0403_dual/ http://www.concentric.net/~Jjlee/boats/dualCarbProj.shtml http://www.concentric.net/~Jjlee/boats/DualCarbTuning.html http://web.tiscali.it/abosco/moto/carb/carbtune.html http://www.clubhotrod.com/t3789.html I'll bet grumpy has pages of advise though, hopefully he will chime in. Tim
  20. Tim240z
    I capped both outlets on the water pump. One goes to the heater, and one goes to the radiator hose. I will look at my Z28 in the morning and see if it's visible enough to take a picture. Tim
  21. Tim240z
    Goes to the radiator hose. The OEM hose has a molded 'T' in it. I just capped them both. Tim
  22. Tim240z
    Do they come from the Oil filter boss at the block and go forward towards the radiator?
  23. Tim240z
    There are other aftermarket LT1 heads out there, not sure how they flow compared to the LT4? Edelbrock and others have heads. I believe that the Comp, or Crane cams are better than the LT4 cam. Tim
  24. Tim240z
    AFAIK-Yes
  25. Tim240z
    nothing yet....as of 15h47
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