KunoZ

Thats not a relay bypass. Thats a fuse somebody wired in place of a fusible link. Since fusible links are kinda hard to come by (not sure if they even make them anymore). Shouldnt cause any problems, just would make sure they have the correct amperage for the fuse.

Sweet! Sounds awesome then! I'll have to be on the look out for some then! And also I have to highly agree that they look mighty comfy too! Thanks!

Welcome to HybridZ!! Yeah you could buy new injectors if you want for the same model car, but also if you want you can upgrade injectors but more than likely something is going to have to be modified depending on what your goals are and what injectors you get thats if your injectors themselves are actually leaking that is. Sounds like to me that your seals/insulators are leaking for your injectors. Should be able to pick them up fairly cheap at your local auto parts store or you can order them online through here http://www.statracing.com/replacement/nissan/fuelinjectorseal.asp. Your part number for the upper insulator is C1010-17633 and the lower is C1010-17634 per injector. If I were you I would replace them all just in case one starts leaking again and since your gonna have it torn down anyways (12 seals total, 6 upper and 6 lower). The lower injectors seals/insulators are the only ones that seal the fuel from leaking so if you want to you can get the lower ones only, but thats your call. If you dont feel comfortable replacing the injector seals or dont really have much knowledge on working on cars I would just have somebody else do it. Shouldnt cost to much to have done considering its not really a complicated or time consuming task. Hoped I helped.

Any fitment issues?? Thinkin of puttin in some myself, just wondering.

Dunno myself to be honest. Mine has the same thing but has never worked, so I never concerned myself with it. Im pretty sure its some type of automated indicator light that does differtent kinds of indications. Could look in my service manual if you REALLY want to know unless somebody else finds out.

Heres my 83' 280ZX turbo not daily driven, garage kept, fresh flat black/metallic paint, retrofitted 280Z performnce MSA exhaust (2.5" to dual 1.5" pipes and no cat), custom made 2.5" down pipe, t3/t4 turbo with saab intercooler, pallnet fuel rail w/new stock injectors, 60mm KA24DE(240SX) throttle body, and retrofitted 84' 300ZX turbo ecu and MAF. Oh and CANT forget the custom batman emblem on the hood too!! Ha Ha Ha!!

Computer can run with out the tps unplug it and see if it helps. Most def. check your timing too. And as for fuel pressure are you getting enough?? If Im correct I think you have to have about 34psi. And one more thing. How well is it running at idle?? Is it a smooth idle??

Had the EXACT same problem with my car. And I mean exact. It puzzled me for a few days. Brakes slowly locked up as the car warmed up and what do you know pulled the line from the brake booster to releave the vacuum in it and BAM!! the brakes released. First I thought it may have been the check valve myself but the check valve only goes one way and lets in vacuum and holds it for the booster to allow more stopping power and figured if it was inop. at first before I thought that but if it was the check vavle it would actually just release my brakes after the engine was off. So what is left?? Something internally was wrong with the brake booster. I think it may have been becuase my master cylinder was leaking and just leaked into the booster and may have destroyed the diaphram in it but not 100% sure. May have just busted/jammed with age, but my point is to solving my problem is that I replaced my brake booster and NEVER had it happen again. I would also check your master cylinder too at the back, where the push rod engages the cylinder to see if it is leaking and consider a replacement, besides a reman unit is pretty cheap. Hope I helped.

Its been a long time since Ive posted but slownrusty where in the world did you get either one of those manifolds???? I know of some that are custom made, but dunno where to get my hands on one. Thanks!

They are kind of common. You can usually find one on ebay no problem. As a matter of fact their is one on there now. They normally sell around a $100 (U.S. currency). Their is only one type I know of in the U.S. and it can bolt up to, as far as I know, any L series engine. It can be found on the 280ZX turbo models 81-83 or L28ET engines. Matt

We are talkin about another manifold he has posted on ebay. Here it is http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160012187613&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_ReBay_Pr4_PcY_BID_IT

I dont know alot about the 7MGTE aftermarket injectors but im pretty sure they would work becuase if the aftermarket ones were made to fit the 7MGTE intake manifold than it should fit the L28 intake manifold besides the O-ring part. I got my fuel rail off his web site. His prices are awsome and he's got the O-ring style fuel rail you want. Here it is http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/

I agree 100% with bleachzee. If you dont know much about wiring as it is you should definitly stick with the stock ecu set up it is much easier, but if your looking for more power you should go with megasquirt. I would only recomend installing it only if you or somebody you know, knows what they are doing. Otherwise, I would just stick with the stocker.

They do the same thing on the Caterpillar C15 ACERT engine. Basically one small turbo driving another larger turbo with only one wastegate on the first small turbo.