RB26powered74zcar

I drill four holes and tap them for the wheel, so I would think it could be done for the pully add on....

Another thing I wonder, is has everyone that has the Tec2 wheel on their damper, had it ballanced? This dosen't get brought up to much in this discussion

Well I'm game for a better fix. Please post the info where to buy a damper to solve this problem, please... I'd buy it in a split second..

hmm... I suspect folks with the damper/trigger wheel set up like mine, (almost 3/16" of metal taken off the backside so that the wheel will not contact the timing cover) are having or going to face the same fate as mine, because by removing that much material off the damper, I belive it's no longer ballanced, and more importantly, not as much rubber/metal is left to hold these peices together as when un-cut.

Looks like I solved my problem without affecting what it's ment to do. Great! , now, what about a ballance issue? Like I said, the Tec wheel was put on the backside before by a shop, chough, TopEnd, cough, and I don't think it was ballanced. And everytime I changed dampers, I didn't either.... is this a no no?? thanks for the info... joel

If I remember corectly, My SPEC clutch set came with the collar on the t/o bearing. I bought the 240mm carbon sprung hub set, and it holds it...

So whats the verdict on what I did to my damper to try and solve my sheering the rubber problem? That was the question I was hopeing to get answered...

I myself don't know that much about the VLSD, but I would think this is the same part that came in the 88 SE Turbo Z. I think there were only Viscious type and clutch type period. The differnce being with the Vis Z vrs. 240sx is I think the case and the ring and pinion. The diff itself is the same between the 88SE Z and the 240sx. If one of us were to buy this, we would need the special half shafts to get the diff side of them for modding.. Disclaimer This is only how I understand this to be

I loaded a few pic's from the install this weekend. The Pic's are in my personal photo gallery here. It's all finished and up and running. I took it out and put the boost to it, and to make a long story short.... I like it, I like it. I really haven't been able to do a good wot run yet safely, but I have noticed it spools way sooner, and I love the exh. tone. I will post more info as I aquire it...

I hope it works out for ya... I got mine all back together this weekend and so far the pully appears to be spinning...

Sorry....... but is this some type of question ?? I'd like to try and help you out here if possible but I don't get it. repost please...

John, your right about the clearance "changing" on you once the lock nut is tightened. I have found that it takes a little practice, and mostly luck, but if you leave the clearance a little loose before thighting the lock nut, and holding the pivot while tighting the lock nut, it usally ends up right on for me I don't think there is a magical way to acomplish this task..... just practice....... joel

umm, let's see...... around 0-7300 rpm....

I guess I really don't understand the harmonics stuff to well All I can say is, the pully still is suported by the rubber, and it still can rotate back and forth (very little though). All I have done is stake a pin in the solid part, allowing the pully to stay as it would normally be, but not be able to sheer the rubber. The pins do not touch the suspended pully, unless it was to twist quite abit... THANKS FOR ALL THE IDEAS Does this make any more scense ??

It was modified already, with the metal shaved off the backside, then the Electamotive Tec2 ign. wheel put on it. To be honest I never really worried about that. Maybe this is why I have so much trouble with dampers Should I try and find a place to spin ballance just the damper??

Getting back to the original problem I'm having... I have took the sugestion of a fellow HybridZ'r with this fix. It allows the pully mounted in rubber to still flex as it should, but not allow it to spin. I drilled all the way thru with a 13/64 bit, then used a couple sizes bigger bit to drill only thru the pully portion. Then I tapped the 13/64th hole for a bolt to run down inside it, then ground it off in the v groove. This allows like I said, for the pully to still move and float as before... I will try this out and hopefully, it will be the end of the spinning alt/wp pully on the solid part of the " DAMPER "

Well, it's finally ready for me to tackle the install. I just got it back from JetHot with their 2000 deg ceramic coating. I will try and do the install this weekend and post some pic's...

James, that is a work of art. No way in the world with that design, will you have to worry about cracking issues.

The spacers are 1 1/4" two peice 5 lug style. Although I have 200lb spring coilovers, they DO touch every now and then.

That header has made the rounds. It was on zcar last week for $300.00 I have been in email contact with the owner before, and the guy seems to be a very nice guy to deal with. If I could make use of it, I'd think of buying it. Although, if this makes any differnce, I belive the header is for a "Right Hand Drive" z car.... BTW, if it's the same guy, he had two other SS L6 headers he might sell.

I don't know what pully set up your refering to here. Mines not attached to a floating pully where it can move around... It's attached to the back of the pully on the part of it thats solid. There is no way this trigger wheel can move. It's screwed to the peice that the large crank bolt goes thru. I think the best set up would be to not have to take any material off the backside, but to attach the wheel on the front of the pully, like TimZ stated he did. I can't use the single groove pully because I MUST have my air-con

I sure would like to see some pic's of the way you guys have yours set up.

What I would do with this idea is, NOT bolt these pullys together per say. If you were to drill say a 1/8 hole all the way thru the floater and the solid, then drill in the same hole, a 3/16 hole but only go thru the floater pully, then you could press a 1/8 pin thru the 3/16 hole and this way would not bind them together... The pin would have a press fit in the solid pully but allow the floater to still "float" but not spin.. Whata ya think ??

I like yours too....... BTW, you will have to crimp the ends on the new boots with the metal caseing. I just put the CV in a vise loosely, then started re-crimping the new one little by little, with a chisel till it was all done. Good luck!! joel

Thanks Jeff for the info... I received a personal email from a guy on this issue, and this was his suggestion for a fix that impressed me as a damm good solution. I think I will give this a shot untill we can come up with a good new part... thanks again guys...