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RB26powered74zcar

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Everything posted by RB26powered74zcar

  1. That whole dam area isn't what it used to be... My parents moved us all there in the mid 60's, and it was a nice place to live/grow up then. I left there in '92 right after the riots, and wouldn't live there again if they gave me a new house. It's gone to hell.... I'd hate to think of having my car there now. I'd have to sleep in it.
  2. Which Z32 parts are you referring to? I have a new pair of the Z32 center bars if thats what your talking about. Since I'm part of the cause here, I'll give them to you if it helps in solving this bad nightmare...
  3. Exceptional job!! I have that flanel cover also, with one mirror pouch, but I have mirrors on both sides.... it still fits well, no prob. I wouldn't do with out it. It's a great fitting cover. Question about your quarter panel remarks... What exactly was done to them? I saw the pic of how the wheel arch's were treated with the brake line trick, but never saw anything done to the quarters lines. Did I just miss something? I can't see what you guy's are referring to... sorry. Maybe a little advice on the hatch straps: I think they may tend to vibrate, and even slap the lexan as you put the car to the test, so I'm thinking maybe apply a foam rubber tape (good quality) to the under side, that way you won't end up with marked up/ buffed marks on your rear window, and it may be quieter too.... just a thought. Got any close ups of under the hood? I bet it looks just as sweet...
  4. Here is a start. Click Here And Here Here 1 more
  5. So what is the hot side? T3, T4... A/R? Maybe I can buy a turbine housing from your shop?
  6. I thinking on switching to a GT35r I have new. Thing is, my Stec manifold is a T4, and I'm looking for a good deal to pop up on a T4 turbine housing for it. What exactly do you mean by fully custom gt3582r? Maybe you can help me understand a little about these particular turbos so I'll be sure to make the right choice on which turbine to get. I got mine with a T3 4 bolt exit and its a .84 or.86 a/r. Your motor looks so right in your engine bay. Everything is in its place, and looks very uncluttered.... kudos!!
  7. Did the DS give you a quote on the price for the new center bars?
  8. Way wicked design.... I'd dump my ccw's in a heartbeat for a set of those exact wheels. Love it!!!
  9. Be aware that there are several different bolt patterns depending what the R200 came in. Also, if you are swapping from a R180, I don't believe the input flanges are compatible. I don't mean to confuse the thread, so if I'm off base here, speak up and I'll delete/edit this post.
  10. Real nice piece there... Got a cost yet?
  11. Hi Leeroy. I know all that info is here for you to read. Check out the drive train section and look at the first threads called pinned, or stickys.... there should be a thread all about that exact subject.
  12. Happy B day Phil..... HAVE A DRINK ON ME
  13. I was in boot camp when I lost a family member. If the US Military understands, and lets you miss a couple days, I'm sure your school will... Do it, you won't regret it later in life, that you did...
  14. So you are going to run twin waste gates? I have a HKS 60mm race gate I wanted to use, but like you, running twin w/g's would take advantage of the divided turbine inlet.
  15. They raped me back when I was building my motor. They charged me $500 for a plain Nissan gasket set for my rb26. I will never buy from them, or recommend them after that...
  16. macr32, thank you very much for posting those pics of the Stec exh man fitment! This puts my mind at ease on weather it fit in our cars or not. The w/g dump pipe should be a easy fix.
  17. I'd like to let everyone know of the experience I had with a purchase from this member. I bought a pair of slightly used side skirts that were sent out packaged very well. I received them in perfect, as sent cond. azcarbum sent them fast, after receiving my payment, as he always has with other purchases I made from him. I give azcarbum a A+ seller rating!!
  18. Looking good!! You appear to have the hard work done. Did you build the mounts, and whats the trans your using? Keep the fresh pics flowing...
  19. I reconditioned both of mine myself. For the outside stainless with rubber, I removed them very carefully (not to kink them) and got a grinder disc, and removed the exposed part of the large thick staples, to where I had a semi smooth surface to attach the new rubber on. I'm sure you could find some rubber at hardware stores, though you may need to trim it to the proper width with a strait edge and a razor blade. I had a roll of 1" black flat rubber seal material I got from my job (used for bottom of shower door seal replacement) and cut to length, then I cleaned the stainless Z door strip real good with thinner so to get a good bond, then I used some good quality black urethane sealant to glue the new rubber onto the stainless door strip. They have held up and work perfectly for the past 8 years. The inside fuzzy strip was done pretty much the same way. I got a roll of fuzzy strip material from my work also. It is used on comercial storefront doors (like the entry doors at a 7 eleven, or most buisnesses) to seal the air from escaping, or entering where the pair of doors close against each other. It comes already the perfect width (aprox 1/4 to 3/8 wide) and has a semi firm clear plastic backing on the opoisite side of the fuzz, so it will accept the black urethane sealant to glue it to the door panel.
  20. Have you tried to determine the clearance with the control at ride position? I thought I read where the control arms are shorter while in the hanging position, thus, can't insert half shaft, but if you put a jack under it and raise till level with half shaft, there is more room. I don't know this to be fact, so maybe try it out if no one else confirms, or disputes...
  21. I drilled and tapped for the pressure sensor in my oil filter adapter (on top), and used a port already there for the temp sensor (bottom right).
  22. ^^^ Edit, posted same time as rturbo_930 There are no bolts. If you strip one, you just about have to use a pair of adj. locking vice grips to crack it loose. This is how I did the stripped screws I had.
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