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hughdogz

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Posts posted by hughdogz

  1. Shanghai at night (Pearl Tower) and yes, that is a lot of smog!!

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    Cathedral of Notre Dame (France)

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    The Saints holding the heads signify they saw the Gillotine

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    I love these little Demons, Muhahaha!! :flamedevi

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    Parisian Street performer:

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    Mmmmm....French "fast food"

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    This was the World's tallest Sitka Spruce tree, located near the highway between Portland and the coast. It broke during a storm last winter. :cry2: I think the current tallest Sitka is now somewhere in the former Soviet Union.

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    Some cool pics along the Wilson River, located in the Coast Range hills. Also showing how much Spanish Moss grows everywhere in the PacNW!!

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    This was *I think* a base of a chimmeny (or fireplace) at one point in time:

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    Some intersting 'shrooms grownig in my backyard during the winter:

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    Some Grapes I had growing at my house:

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    Last but not least, a pic of an American LeMans car (Panoz Team) when the series appeared at PIR (Portland Int'l Raceway):

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  2. As for waiting for TTT stuff, its still going to be $200 for that set up. It's only going to me $60-70 to make a set. Don't get me wrong I'm sure the TTT stuff will be nice. I'm not going to wait and see if they make them only to find out that they aren't going to.

     

    Guy

     

    I totally respect and admire your initiative. I hope you will post up pics of your completed pieces!! :2thumbs:

  3. Yeah, that doesn't look to bad actually. I'd say go for it.

     

    But, what is up with the rust and cutout in the driver's inner door frame in pic #4?

     

    Also, the passenger rear around the taillight looks a bit funky...

     

    But in general, I think it is a good start for what you have planned Justin! :icon14:

  4. Do you know how it broke thou? Was it in a hard turn, auto cross, daily?

     

    He was just trying to keep up with our ZXT's in and around Anaheim. It's not like we were out rallying or terrorizing the neighborhoods, we were obeying the speed limits. Although he was getting pretty squirrelly around the corners following us...maybe he hit a pothole or something and his T/C rod finally gave up the ghost.

     

    It was a pretty clean 90 degree break, with kind of a thick line across the diameter. If it would have broken from torsion, it would have been a 45 degree break.

     

    I'm no failure analysis expert, but I'm guessing that it either fatigued from bending (cracks growing from opposite sides) or else snapped while buckling. If it would have broken from tension, I think I would have seen a cup and cone type of break.

  5. This is scary stuff to read. I got poly bushings, and have you seen the way the ls1 mounts are? They use that bolt on the end of the tie rod. Might have to pick up a set of those techno toy ones myself after hearing this.

     

    I'd get them ASAP if I were running poly bushings, and lowered suspension without any RCA's.

     

    You should have seen it. When the S130 came to a stop, the wheel seemed like it turned maybe 10-20 degrees because of the broken T/C rod!! :icon52: Nooooot good!

     

    I'm going to see about either using one poly and one rubber like Guy said, and / or drill out the poly's like the Dime quarterly article suggested.

  6. Hi Guy, Damn I wish I would have seen this post a week ago!

     

    Guess what? The same thing happened to a friend of ours at the Motorsport show. Only he drove from Arizona. Yes, he did have Poly bushings but no lowered suspension on his S130.

     

    I thought the 510'ers would fit, but I talked to Gabriel at TTT and he said that they won't fit. However, he said he should have the S130 T/C rods available in the next month or so.

     

    I know you can't wait that long, and you already sourced materials, but if you could somehow cancel the order, or return those materials, you could get some TTT ones semi-soon.

     

    Best regards, -Hugh

  7. Boost solonoid? Maybe you mean an electronic boost controller that uses a solonoid. The L28ET uses just a wastegate actuator sized at 7psi, so no external boost controller.

     

    A MBC inline between the compressor fitting and wastegate actuator should do fine, that's the way most of us set it up...

     

    What a MBC does is that it "intercepts" the boost signal from the compressor so that it will not let pressure through until a certain pressure is reached. Then it will let the boost signal through. Say that your wastegate actuator (stock) opens at 7psi. You can set the MBC to 9 psi, and the actuator will not see any signal until 9psi. It will now open at 9psi instead of 7psi.

     

    With a BOV, you want a signal from the intake manifold so that going from boost to vacuum by closing the throttle will open the BOV. If you take the signal from the compressor fitting, it is not under vacuum when the throttle closes.

     

    I've also heard that it is possible to connect a line from the manifold to the BOV, BOV to MBC, then to the wastegate actuator (and plug the compressor fitting). You can try hooking them up the other ways you mentioned too.

     

    However you choose to do it, make sure that the BOV will stay shut at idle. You don't want any unmetered (and not to mention unfiltered) air to enter the system.

     

    It is also a necessity to get a good boost gage to ensure you're not over-boosting (over ~9-10 psi no intercooler, some have run higher).

     

    Hope this helped...

     

    this is probably going to sound like a really stupid question, but i better ask so i dont screw something up, i have no clue what a boost solenoid is, i have a stock 83 zx-t and i have a mbc that i plan on putting on after i adjust my valves correctly, as far as i know, all i need to do is put it inline with the compressor and wastegate actuator, i dont know about removing any boost solenoids or anything, oh and another thing, for the lower nipple on my greddy type s bov, couldn't i T off from that line going from the compressor to the boost controller and put it there, i read somewhere thats what the lower nipple is for, to get a signal for under the diaphram? and you can get it from the line on the turbo compressor or wastegate actuator? please fill me in, lol
  8. All I know is that most 83 turbos had a p90a hydraulic head. From what Ive read SOME were p90a's with mechanical lifters. But Im not sure.

     

    Yes indeed. Some '82's had a P90A head with mechanical lifters (like mine) but as far as I know, there weren't ANY '83's with a 90A head and mechanical lifters from the factory. There's probably quite a few Timesert converted P90A heads around since hydro lifters are NLA. But maybe you're right, there could be some '83's with a P90A and factory mechanical lifters.

     

    I don't have concrete facts though...I could be totally wrong. Just because we haven't seen it in person, doesn't mean they don't exist. e.g. '82-'83's with slicktops.

    I will try to refrain from posting any more today...:beatdeadh

     

    I apologize for the off-topic chippo280Z

  9. AIRDAM FLARE SPOILER MOLDS 914 2002 Datsun Z - $100 -

     

    One of our members in NW-Z asked the seller about the S30 molds and here is what they had to say:

     

    "240Z: 3 different airdam molds, 280Z: 2 different airdam molds, 240-280Z: 3 different rear spoiler molds, 3 different sets of flare molds, Full IMSA wide body Fender Kit with G-Nose and airdam, 2 different hood molds."

     

    Best regards, -Hugh :icon29:

  10. FORTRAN rims, hehe. I used to write Finite Element code in Fortran...

     

    I think you can fit those, but i agree with lorenzo, they may look a teeny bit bulgy, but probably not balloon-like.

     

    It will also depend on the aspect ratio, or "series" of the tire.

     

    For your run-of-the mill 15" 225 tires (50 series), Kumho says they can fit on a rim size 6"-8". So a 7" rim is right in the middle: http://www.kumhousa.com/tires/passenger/high-performance.do (click on view printable spec sheet)

     

    However, they say the section width will be 9.2" on a 7" rim, so the tire would extend past the rim lip [9.2"-(7"+1")]/2 = 0.6" or about 5/8" which isn't too bad and may save your rims from a little unexpected curb rash while parallel parking...

     

    Hope this helped, -Hugh

     

    [Edit: In my opinion, looks are secondary. What you should really be concerned about is the tire rubbing against the strut tube (and excessive sidewall deflection from running too wide of a tire for the rim). If you don't have coilovers, a 4.5" (114.3 mm) is about the maximum backspacing you can safely run without any rubbing issues.

     

    I suggest that once you get your rims, test mount them before you get the tires mounted. I would want at least 1/2" (~13mm) of clearance between the tire and the strut tube (minimum 30mm between the rim and strut tube, just my guess). You will get sidewall deflection from lateral G-forces while cornering. If you don't have this much room, look into running a spacer (which I hope will not be needed) or else go with some 205 width tires like I did on my 7" width rims.]

  11. Since this is the z-car I drive the most, and my only other driver I thought I'd share some pics and descriptions.

     

    I decided to get this Z when my 1981 280ZX 2+2 wouldn't pass emissions. I lost interest in the 2+ (since I now had the S130 turbo coupe). Plus, the 260Z was way cooler in my opinion anyway, lol.

     

    It has four-screw round-top SU's, and the bumpers were already gone when the P.O. sold me her. It also had the "Hurricane-Dukes-of-Hazzard" wheels, and an air dam, along with a two-tone paint job (black but dark metallic blue across the top). The bondo was already falling off when I purchased the car, but oh well, for $1400 it wasn't too bad. It also came with a Hooker muffler :lmao:that was about to fall off since part of the pipe is paper-thin from rust. It patched up pretty well, and I kind of like the loud exhaust to be honest.

     

    The strangest things were on the car when I got it. There was a mini RC plane carburetor on the balance tube, and it had an ignition coil setup hooked up to a "pushbutton starter" as the theft deterrent system, lol.

     

    Since then, I added an Autopower roll bar, Toyo tires, and an electric fan. I have a new radiator that I bought at the MSA garage sale for $40, so that will do wonders. Also I have a 105 amp alternator and that made a BIG difference in how it performed. Also new hatch seals were mandatory, cough, cough...

     

    I tried those Vortek generators at one point in time, but couldn't tell that they made any difference, especially since I'm rockin' those cheezy pop-up moon roofs, and I have no wing or spoiler.

     

    These are some pretty old pics, it has been through some parking lot damage, dog damage, tow truck damage, etc. but it still goes and goes and has never really stranded me yet.

     

    My future plans are implanting an L28ET, Nissan 5-speed and R200 courtesy of my 2+parts car.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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    ...I made the Z-Freak sticker from a Torque Freaks sticker (now defunct). :icon45:

     

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    Yeee!!! Haaaawwww!!!!

     

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    I removed one of the rear bumper shocks, but I'm too lazy to drop the gas tank to remove the other one just yet. Some people have asked if it is another tailpipe!

     

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    A couple more driveway shots:

     

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    Rally Dreaming / Camping:

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    Of course I call it Maku's car. He can climb right over the harness bar and stays on a 2" thick piece of rubber that is an anti-fatigue material used for machine operators. I cut it to shape, and it really cut down on the road noise too! (I'll post pics of that later).

     

    He loves just hopping in and sitting in the car, and rides with me everywhere in it. It is cool because since he is well over 100 pounds, he can provide good rear-wheel traction, especially when the the conditions are wet. :lmao: I can definately tell the difference when he's not there.

     

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    I also have an 11/1970 240Z that is in such bad shape, it is worthy of making a mull movie. I think I wanted the biggest project I could possibly make for myself, but that is another story altogether.

     

    Later, -Hugh

  12. that is horrid, but not at all uncommon. i used to have an sw20 like that and would always see the same thing being done. ouch. funny, they all seemed to be hispanic, too. then they'd throw all the little stupid neon bells and whitsles on it from 'that aisle' in vato zone, pardon me, auto zone. ick.

     

    I really mean no offense by this, but I hope we can refrain from any more derogatory comments such as this one. I think we can all share opinions on the build, but let's try to keep ethnicity out of it...

     

    I hope I'm not stepping on any toes, or crossing the line here, but I thought this was something I should say since I started the thread.

     

    Cheers, -Hugh :icon14:

  13. ^^^ I agree 100%. S130's are becoming popular again. You should have seen how many 280ZX's were at the MSA show this year. There was probably twice as many compared to previous years.

     

    I think it is because the S130's are over 25 years old, and have the less restrictive emissions requirements now (at least in California).

     

    Does this set up require and changes in the brake system,

    like proportioning valve, change in rear set up, or master cylinder?

     

    I'm not sure about the m/c, but I would think you'd need a brake proportioning valve. I think Dave? at AZC could tell us for sure.

     

    Even though the 13" rotors and billet calipers will definately give better braking (and bragging rights, lol) I'm not sure that the increased unsprung weight will be worth it.

     

    Also, I saw a set of the fronts go on ebay for ~$500 last week. The guy said that these won't work with the new suspension setup he's using. Does that mean you cannot run these with coilovers? Maybe he did a 5-lug conversion or something...hmm.

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