hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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Hugh, We'll meet up this weekend.
Best Regards,
Justin Olson
I just want to say that Justin made good on his statement to me. I met up with Justin and received my flanges Memorial Day weekend.
Patience Grasshoppers (Thanks Justin, you are a good friend)
Best regards, -Hugh
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^^^ That is so true Tony. I tried to learn Japanese, but gave up...Spanish is much easier for me to learn.
I've seen my Mom "write" Kanji on her palm sometimes when conversing to another Japanese, just like you said.
What is really funny is when they catch themselves "palming" Kanji while they are talking on the phone!
What is really cool is that my Mom can still communicate with her Chinese doctor, when they both write in Kanji / Traditional Chinese.
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I've been getting really crappy gas mileage lately on the old 260Z, so I decided to lean out the fuel mixtures a bit.
I was getting a mere ~20 MPG, but since the gas formulation has changed to 9-10% ethanol I've been getting only 15-18 MPG
So, I had the 3-month de-carbonation ritual to do anyway, and thought it would be a perfect time to tune lean.
I tried to adjust the mixtures "by ear", turning each screw to get a good steady idle. But when I went to go drive it, something wasn't quite right. I seemed to have lost power.
I then decided to use an LM1 to find out my AFR's. Since I have a 6-1 header, I couldn't really weld in two bungs (one for each carb). So I quickly made a tailpipe clamp:
The LM1 is so accurate. I could see that one carb was rich, and one was lean. The AFR's went 14, 17, 14, 17, etc. very quickly. One mixture knob was turned out 3.5 turns and the other 4 turns.
I turned them both to 3 turns, and my AFR's were at 20 and there were no complaints from the engine running too lean at idle.
When I revved (with no load) to about 2000-3000 RPM, I would go to 14-14.5 AFR's.
I'm hoping I'll get at least 20-25 MPG's now. We'll see.
I also replaced all fuel hoses (some were cracking) with some new 5/16" FI hose I had laying around...
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Well, that didn't take long. Good job Bo!
So Calgary280zt is running fully sequential injection now? Way Cool!
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Very cool Paul!! ("cheating" or not
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Justin!... Justin!... Justin!...
Echo!... Echo!... Echo!..
Hey Man, are you busy this weekend? We can meet up at the Ship, and I'll buy you a beer in exchange for the flanges
I hope everything is going allright.
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I've been checking out Gabe's thread (and Austin's pics too) about porting the L28ET exhaust manifold: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133065
I have a P90A head and the exhaust ports line up perfectly to an OEM gasket.
I want to gasket match this exhaust manifold, but I'm wondering if this warp is normal or not, since it doesn't seem to line up.
I suppose I could gasket match port-centered versus gasket / head-centered?
I don't know what's going on, I'm hoping it will expand and line up after it reaches operataing temperature. I know there is quite a bit of allowable float on the flange...but this seems a bit excessive to me.
What do the experts say?
Thanks! -hughdogz
#1:
#2:
3 & 4:
#5:
#6:
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Remove the combination switch and try cleaning the contacts inside.
Hope this helps...
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sorry, XD im talking about the tunk door***
Rear hatch?? Sure, as long as you're not mixing 2+2 with a coupe.
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This car uses a flap door air flow meter.
Exactly.
That was the premise of my post. The "flapper" OEM AFM on the L28E's don't measure or take into account the air pressure, rather they measure the air velocity.
I'm probably talking over my head here. I need to bust out the FSM to know for sure.
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Only the front toe is adjustable on S130's.
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===========
Is this you? Print out the Inquiry Form, fill it out and send it to the Oregon Department of State Lands
Property Details: This asset has a cash value over $50.
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What the ?? I guess I'd better send it in to see what I get, LOL!
My ultimate dream would be a property with a giant barn full of Z's and vintage racers!
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It's not the pressure but the warmer air fooling the intake air temp sensor to skew things leaner..........since it was designed to report the temperature of the air just as it enters the intake tract and not after being compressed.
I think BradManQ45 hit the nail on the head. The AFM wasn't designed to measure compressed air.
Say that you add an intercooler that is 100% efficient (for sake of argument) so that temperature doesn't play any role.
The mass flow rate of the air is the same regardless if it is still atmospheric, pressurized or even a higher temperature.
Say for instance, you are boosting at 14.7 psi. That is twice the atmospheric pressure (on the absolute scale). If the pressure is doubled, the velocity must be halved since mass flow rate is the same (assuming same diameter tubes).
Therefore, the AFM is only "seeing" half the flow in the pressurized pipe (versus the atmospheric location) . The ECU then adds only half the required fuel.
[Edit: This logic seems right to me, but I'm not 100% sure.]
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There's not that many S130 project pages to sift through, but here you go!
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133409
{Edit: Making your own Pantera-style hatch for the 2+, huh? Cool!
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if i were to do this. im not sure if it would be worth going efi on it, or building a surge tank for the su's and grinding a set of custom needles to follow the boost curve.
To use SU's wouldn't it have to be a draw-through setup? (versus a blow-through) Either that or you'd have to figure out a way to pressurize the SU's float chambers. I could be wrong though (it wouldn't be the first time
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i have an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator with my L28et....wat should the psi be when the car is at idle.???
If your regulator didn't come with instructions you can probably download it off the Aeromotive website.
That said, my Aeromotive instructions said to set the static pressue at 43 psi IIRC (that's without the vacuum reference, and the hose plugged).
When you plug the vacuum reference hose back on, you should drop to about 36 psi, assuming your engine is pulling 7 psi of vacuum.
I think this is a pretty general rule of thumb for EFI and has probably been covered MANY-o times before...
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As for the sticker, this is what it says....
Mmmm....intellesting. Thanks Globerunner!! I thought they were pretty decent wheels. Since Rocket Racing? went out of their way to get SFI spec approval back in the day, they are probably decently strong rims.
I know what you guys are going to say, just because it meets SFI spec, doesn't mean squat (in reality). Kind of like ISO 900x certification, it just means that the processes are well documented.
I really like your black finish. I second Woldson, I'm anxious to see how they look on your ride!! Cheers!
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I've been frustrated using Logworks2. I tried to create user charts to calculate corrected injector opening times based on current injector opening times, target AFR and Actual AFR.
My problem was, after I would create all the charts, enter the formulas, save settings, blah, blah, I couldn't figure out why my settings weren't saving! Ugh!
I went on Innovate's forum and discovered that they have a Logworks3 Beta_2 available for download. :-PI didn't even have to uninstall my Logworks2.
What I noticed first off is an enhanced user interface:
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Different skins
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Max / min markers on gauges
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Common commands are added as toolbuttons
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And get this, a Template Manager!!
Now I can finally save my user defined charts. I was using Logworks2, MS-Excel and the Wolf3D interface to tune my fuel map charts. Now at least I don't need Excel.
Here are some screen captures so you know what I'm talking about:
Template Manager:
Here are some of my user charts that use formulas to calculate other user charts (this is the actual AFR table shown):
What is really nice about the user-defined formulas (macros?) is that you can add a qualifer. Say that you only want calculations if the number of data points is greater than 20. This will ignore those "oddball" data points!!
I'm still pretty rough in my maps, but here are some chart examples:
(current inj open time when AFR's were recorded)
My target AFR map:
Corrected (automatically calculated by formula) injector open time:
Just for kicks, I wanted to see how far off I was in milliseconds for injector open time:
Here is the same chart as above, only in percentage difference:
Some other useful charts that you can create that haven't changed much from Logworks2:
There's still a few bugs in LW3 that I noticed (not all user defined formulas show up). In general, I like it MUCH better than LW2.
Cheers, -hughdogz
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Different skins
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I've been frustrated using Logworks2. I tried to create user charts to calculate corrected injector opening times based on current injector opening times, target AFR and Actual AFR.
My problem was, after I would create all the charts, enter the formulas, save settings, blah, blah, I couldn't figure out why my settings weren't saving! Ugh!
I went on Innovate's forum and discovered that they have a Logworks3 Beta_2 available for download. :-PI didn't even have to uninstall my Logworks2.
What I noticed first off is an enhanced user interface:
-
Different skins
-
Max / min markers on gauges
-
Common commands are added as toolbuttons
-
And get this, a Template Manager!!
Now I can finally save my user defined charts. I was using Logworks2, MS-Excel and the Wolf3D interface to tune my fuel map charts. Now at least I don't need Excel.
Here are some screen captures so you know what I'm talking about:
Template Manager:
Here are some of my user charts that use formulas to calculate other user charts (this is the actual AFR table shown):
What is really nice about the user-defined formulas (macros?) is that you can add a qualifer. Say that you only want calculations if the number of data points is greater than 20. This will ignore those "oddball" data points!!
I'm still pretty rough in my maps, but here are some chart examples:
(current inj open time when AFR's were recorded)
My target AFR map:
Corrected (automatically calculated by formula) injector open time:
Just for kicks, I wanted to see how far off I was in milliseconds for injector open time:
Here is the same chart as above, only in percentage difference:
Some other useful charts that you can create that haven't changed much from Logworks2 (3D surface plot):
There's still a few bugs in LW3 that I noticed (not all user defined formulas show up). In general, I like it MUCH better than LW2.
Just thought I'd let you guys know about the improvements. Sorry if this was a repost.
Cheers, -hughdogz
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Different skins
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Wow! Now that is an awesome job there!!
Yasin, I noticed your pyrometer is pegged at 1600F. That's what happened to mine on the trip to MSA and never came back.
It used to be when I turned the key off, it would stay at that reading. Then when I would turn the key back on, it would reset to zero. Now it resets to 1600 F.
I'm thinking of sending it back to Autometer to see if they can fix it.
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in the far upper right hand corner, lies an button, a magical button, it tells the answers to your questions, and you dont have to sell your soul... its the search button
Haha! Very true...well, actually you only have to sell half your soul, because you'll be addicted to the search button in no-time.
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I just got a set of 4 victoracer tires (205/55/14 about 50% worn?) that are going on some 14X7 turbine style wheels i got with them. For $120 i can't complain.
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And just for kicks, what I did to the wheels I got
I think this is the first time I've seen the EXACT same wheels that came on my 260Z!
There are many variants on this style, most of which are less appealing to me.Check it out:
Do you know who makes them? I only have the front two center caps, and those have a sticker that says "Rocket Racing Wheels". I notice you have a sticker on the rim, what does it say?
And those DORAL tires were hard as rocks!! I have some low-end Toyo Proxies on now and it made a world of difference. I never thought a semi-generic cigarrette company would make tires.
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...there's no port to run a line from the J-pipe to the air regulator. I guess you'd have to T-off the spot on the pipe for the blow-off?
Not necessarily, you could get ahold of a throttle body like a vintage Weber that has provisions to connect pre and post (two places) throttle plate. Then you wouldn't even have to mess with the J-Pipe.
Although I think it would be pretty simple to spotface part of the BAE emboss (where the material is thickest) then tap in a fitting...
This might sound stupid but what is a j-pipe for?It's the pipe that routes the compressed air from the turbo into the throttle body. It is in the shape of a "J", thus the name.
It is fine for low boost levels where the compressed air isn't heated much. But at higher boost levels, an intercooler is usually needed between the compressor and TB to return the heated air back to ambient temperature as much as possible.
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http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/673460333.html
http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa301/MunichM/GT2%20280Z/
There must be $50k worth of parts here! I should buy it just for the investment!
But it's Waaaay out of my league for now...
It's better that it gets back on the track soon.
)
}
There are many variants on this style, most of which are less appealing to me.
It's better that it gets back on the track soon.
Toybo 4x4 truck (I've gone to the Dark Side!)
in Other vehicles
Posted
This is my 1986 Toyota 4x4 "Toybo" project. OEM 22RTE engine with CT20 turbo (it's tiny
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Mods already done:
This RTE has seen some miles!
CT20...the wastegate actuator is the size of my thumb!
But check out the size of this (steering) idler arm. BEEF!!
I had to do something about small-ish turbo size, so I got a hold of this exhaust manifold with a T3 flange:
It needed porting:
The brakes were terrible when I got it, so I got new pads, rotors and rebuilt Toyota 4-piston S12-8 calipers are stock...
I was able to pass DEQ by installing a new catalytic converter. Max Hyrdocarbon is 200 and it got 14! Max COx was ~14% and it got 0.14% or something crazy like that.
Future mods:
That's about it for now...