hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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For the rail, the turbo doesn't have a cold start injector...
As for the color:
Nissan 280ZX
Year/Model/CC/ Impedence/Part#/ColorTurbo / 265 / BrownNon Turbo / 188 /Notes:
Early 280Z white/tan body injector. 0-280-150-104
Later 280Z green body injector
280ZX Turbo brown body injector.
...Also the turbo manifold has a safety pop valve near the EGR
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You might have set the choke cables too tight so that it has the butterfly valves cracked open too much.
The pistons are supposed to fall back down...if the pistons are really stuck you might have a bent needle or more likely the tops aren't centered. Try tightening the tops after ensuring that the piston moves up and down freely.
You should also add a little bit of ATF so the dampers have some juice. You don't want to fill the tubes all the way up, or else the fluid will just leak out.
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Has anyone near Menlo Park, California checked out this place yet? There seems to be some great tools and machines available.
Overview:
http://www.techshop.ws/index.html
Equipment:
http://www.techshop.ws/equipment.html
Locations:
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as far as the cross drilled not being good then why would a company like brembo make them. the gas escapes between the rotors (front of and back of) middle section. see link
You are totally right plexus, my bad. With vented rotors, the gasses can escape the hole behind the pad. However, our ZX's have non-vented rotors in the rears, so I still think slotted would be better in that case.
Shoot, I thought it was a choice between bolt-on slotted or cross-drilled. If you really want a sweet setup and have ~$2000 USD to spare, go with the AZC six piston, billet calipers with the 13" rotors. HOT DAMN!!
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Heat soaking of the fuel rail / injectors? Do you have a heat shield on the intake manifold, or a thermal coating on the exhaust manifold?
My l28ET has lean running problems and high idle if I start it maybe 5-20 minutes it after it has been run hard.
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My Power Slots have lasted a LONG time. I'm not sure, but they might just buy Brembo rotors and slot them.
I've heard that cross drilled aren't that great by comparison. They tend to crack more than slotted. Plus, with slotted, the gasses can escape while the slot is behind the bad. With cross-drilled the gasses can escape into the hole, but cannot escape out of the hole until after the hole leaves from behind the pad.
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An Autometer pod for early RX7's works great (single or dual).
I agree with Guy, that one looks like a hybrid of one dual and one single.
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I would like to know too. It would be great if I could use an Autometer mechanical speedo in place of the stock one, using the stock speedo cable.
I wonder how Guy80LT1 did his...hmm.
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Not sure if this will help, but my friend had the same problem with his old-school HKS BOV. It would be halfway open at idle, so it really messed with the stock FI.
There are sometimes two vacuum ports on BOV or re-circulation valves. We ended up teeing them and the valve stayed shut at idle.
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The road trip went pretty well overall. I had no real problems with the ZXT.
We caravan-ed back with a new Hyundai Accent rental that a friend had, and the ZXT mileage was almost on par! (e.g. I would burn through twelve gallons while they would burn through eleven).
I used about 2.5 tanks of gas to get from PDX to LAX. Some things worth mentioning that happened, or that I need to change:
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The 130 MPH speedometer I purchased from Ebay, installed in place of the 85 MPH isn't working well. The needle would bounce all over the place after ~80 MPH
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The Autometer EGT gauge failed. At one point, I pegged it over 1600 degrees F and it never came back! It is supposed to re-zero when it's power turned off, then back on. It does that but immediately pegs to 1600 again.
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The wideband sensor overheated when we spent over an hour idling in LA traffic Sunday afternoon. I thought I burned up another sensor, but it magically started working again the next day. I think one reason is that I'm still using the stock downpipe (the bung location is too close to the turbo exhaust housing). I used one of Innovate's heat sink bung extenders, but I probably should have also used a copper heat shield as well.
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You guys were right. I had heat soak problems in the fuel rail / intake manifold at low load after startup (due to not running heat shields). I get high AFR's until I increase the load. The heat soak problem disappears after a few minutes of cruising.
No brake caliper bolt fell out this year for me, but one fell out of my buddie's ZXT as soon as we arrived in Anaheim. The LA freeways tend to shake apart our Z's.
Future plans for the next year:
Mechanical:
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Start designing and piecing together a 3" exhaust system, with an electronically controlled cutout
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T3/T04E turbo & ATP internal wastegate (and port the wastegate outlet too?)
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Gasket match the intake and exhaust manifolds (and port the exhaust)
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Get manifolds, downpipe, etc. thermal coated
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Figure out how to get my KAAZ 1.5-way LSD installed
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Head work (unshroud valves, gasket match, radius intake runners, 5-angle valve job and cam install from Rusch Motorsports)
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oil cooler from a SAAB
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Centerforce clutch
Exterior:
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Design a belly-pan and possibly a splitter
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Beta Motorsports carbon fiber hood
- Rear diffuser or at least fix the "scoop" in the rear valance
Of course there is also tuning the Wolf V500 EMS. I still haven't figured out the PWM boost controller, my fuel map is still incomplete and rough in some places. I haven't even started touching the timing map yet. (thanks again Bo for the base maps, they are working great!!)
It was excellent to finally meet and talk to some of you Guys at the events!!
I really enjoyed meeting Bo (KTM), Frank280ZX, Tony D, X64V, John Coffey, Brian Blake, Jeff P, etc. just to mention a few.
What an awesome weekend!!
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The 130 MPH speedometer I purchased from Ebay, installed in place of the 85 MPH isn't working well. The needle would bounce all over the place after ~80 MPH
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I'm leaving early tomorrow morning (~6:15). My buddie Bryan is taking his ZXT too!
We will try to meet up with some more Z-heads at Z-Therapy in Salem at 7am.I just finished fixing a MAJOR oil leak at the turbo oil feed line banjo bolt. I thought I wasn't going to be able go after all!
I hope that we make it to SoCal in one piece (and no mechanical troubles) and still have some spending money when I get there, lol!
My Fuel map is still fairly of rich in a few places, we'll see just how much the fuel will cost me.
I'm thinking gas will only get more expensive the further south we go.
Filler up!!
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I wonder if that is an AQP exhaust cutout. I didn't see mention of it. I wonder why he chose to put it at the end of the exhaust instead of pre-cat.
Love this pic, I was planning on adding air horns (velocity stacks?) using a RonTyler / JustinOlson plenum base.
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Sweet, that means I bought a HybridZ. '73 240 with '81 to '82 280ZX engine.
You got me on that one Six_Shooter. Good point.
The different displacement L-Series is kind of a borderline to me. I was thinking more like RB, VH, VQ, VG, SR, KA, MN etc. swap in a Z.
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I see the point that the term "Hybrid" has changed quite a bit with the introduction of the Prius, etc. The difference is Hybrid car versus Hybrid power sourced engine.
I agree with Challenger, Hybrid encompasses a lot more than just cars. Hybrid corn has been around since the 1930's for instance.
Even if a Nissan / Datsun has an engine from a different Nissan, I still consider it a hybrid even though it is not even from a different car manufacturer.
My 280ZXT has the original L28ET engine, yet it has a Wolf EMS, RX7 injectors, Audi A6 air temp sensor, Chevy truck coils, Porsche fuel pump, etc. I consider it as a Hybrid too.
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Happy Birthday SuperDan!!
Thanks for hosting Hybridz too.
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Very cool, and interesting news Bo!
I wonder if there is a hysteresis setting you can tweak...
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lol, you're in washington. the precipitation capital of the US. but yeah, that's kinda ridiculous. at least in memphis, if we don't like the weather we can just wait it out for ten minutes. then, it completely changes.
Actually, there are cities in Texas that get more yearly rainfall amounts than Seattle does. You guys get it all at once, we just have a constant mist, so to speak.
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I agree. Rain, hail and sleet takes most of the fun out of street and highway tuning...
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Those Rota RB's in 17x7.5" +4 should be out soon from what I understand. Those will look killer on Aziza with the royal hyper black centers (or just gloss black).
If you want, call Kim at Rota or 18Racing to get an updated ETA. I couldn't stand waiting any longer for the +4 7.5" RB's and got some Volks instead...
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The thread title says "crank". Is this really a crank sensor? Looks more like one from an optical distributor.
Z-Ya, you're right it is not a crank angle sensor in the traditional sense (i.e. missing tooth type). I knew I might get called on the lack of correct terminology...maybe one of the admins can change the title to optical or timing sensor, if necessary.
I would still argue that crank angle sensor is more descriptive than optical sensor since it is the angle of the crank that determines the event timing. Whether the sensor is placed on the crank itself, the harmonic damper, camshaft, timing chain sprocket, oil pump / distributor shaft...it's all doing the same thing basically.
We strive to be 110% correct on HBZ, but I'd rather not get hung up on semantics unless I'm completely off base.
You make a good point Z-Ya, and I know you're an EMS Guru, so I hold your comment in very high regard.
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Gentlemen,
I have some questions.....most relate to dimensioning and clearances.
1. I am looking for the dimension of the two constraining vertical planes....
the flange (cylinder head mating surface side) to the Turbo flange (Turbo mating surface side).
Those two planes aren't parallel. The turbo flange angles down maybe 30 degrees from vertical. The 3"x5" flange is centered on the runner #5. The perpendicular dimension from the head flange to the bottom of the turbo flange is 3", and to the top is 4"
I suspected you might be an engineer with the replies you've given.
If what I said didn't make sense, I can probably mock up a quick CAD model in Inventor.
-Hugh
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Wow. I had no idea there were so many failures
Doesn't Chris (Big Phil's friend) have an SST turbo too?Bo, I know the feeling of not knowing if you'll be ready in time for MSA.
I cringed when I read this post a couple days ago. Unbelievable the number of trials you've had to overcome. It doesn't seem fair.
You'll get 'er done!
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I think you may need to design in a more vertical section of the elbow. Just thinking of filling up and fluid possibly spurting out. Or, if you're parked on a hill with a full tank (or accelerating hard), would the cap seal it enough to prevent leaking?
I would also measure the CLR of an actual pump nozzle and throw it into SW (or which ever modeler you're using) to make sure it will slide in / out just right.
Otherwise, looks good Justin.
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Ron, I was hoping you would add some good comments to the thread. Thanks again for all your help!
I used about 2.5 tanks of gas to get from PDX to LAX. 
We will try to meet up with some more Z-heads at Z-Therapy in Salem at 7am.
'73 240 with '81 to '82 280ZX engine. 
Anyway to Identify Turbo Intake/ Injectors and Fuel Rail
in Fuel Delivery
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No worries Challenger!
I'm glad there is a sticky I can quote, because I have a hard time keeping that stuff in my head, lol.