hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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I am using a '82 280ZXT distributor's optical sensor as the CAS for the Wolf. It requires that you create a slit after one of the six slits to signal two complete crank revolutions.
I found that you can have your trigger sync hole too close to the reference slit.
I couldn't figure out why my WolfV500 would report trigger sync errors above 4500 RPM (lower right corner):
I got another wheel with the hole further away and it worked!!! I can now rev to 6k easily, without any errors.
The wheel on the left actually worked fine up to ~4500 RPM. The wheel on the right is the one drilled with a 0.100" hole a fair distance away by comparison:
The sync hole in the right wheel didn't start out that large and elongated. I originally had drilled a 1/16" (0.0625") size hole approximately 1 "slit-width" away (which also worked to ~4500 RPM). I guess that was too close.
Now I have to figure out how to set the rev limiter!
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whoa whoa whoa. What is this CNG you speak of?
I may be wrong, but CNG sounds like Compressed Natural Gas (Methane = CH4). The stuff that is piped into some houses (like mine).
It is different than say LP (Liquid Propane) that you see at the filling stations for your barbeque or RV.
The Methane molecule = 1 carbon atom + four hydrogen atoms whereas the Propane molecule = 3 carbon atoms + eight hydrogen atoms. Plus the states are different (gas versus liquid)
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you cant put a BOV after the throttle body on the intake manifold, it defeats the purpose of it being a BOV, the reason a blow off valve is there is to vent the pressurized air elsewhere when your throttle plate closes, if you dont have a BOV inline between ur turbo and throttle body, then the air is gonna bounce right back to your turbo
You're right, you have to put the BOV before the throttle plate.
However, if you are running ITB's or a blow-through setup, you can to put a BOV on the surge tank (intake manifold was my bad choice of words) since it is before the throttle plates.
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Hugh, Im buying what appears to be a V500 v1 and I will be installing an LC-1. In fact, Bo will be helping (doing!) the install next month. Is the upgrade to v2 a hardware or software upgrade?
I believe it requires both. The V500 v1 was marketed under the premise that it had wideband datalogging, etc. capabilities. I guess they couldn't get all the bugs worked out before it shipped.
So, now that Wolf has finalized the wideband they will honor v1 customers with a v2 (which now includes a "standalone" wideband unit). The catch is that you have to pay for shipping to AUS, which from the U.S. can be $100(?).
I'm not 100% on the details, but I'm guessing there is a (minor) hardware change, firmware change, plus you get the new O2 hardware. I'm not sure if there is a PC software update.
For me, since I already have an Innovate system running, I opted not to update to v2.
Hope this helped, -Hugh
[Edit: Edited my post to correct the mis-information about the shipping to AUS]
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Bo's using the new V500 v2, version 1's wideband input doesn't work quite right from what I understand. It would be worth a try though...
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Cool! I actually liked the music a lot too. It seemed to fit pretty well at certain points.
Was that you playing Gollum?
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Where does the vacuum hose for the cam cover lead to? Maybe a catch-can and then to the exhaust...hmmm.
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I wonder if $600 would be worth just those old-school JDM Hoshino rims and fender mirrors.
It has been listed forever...they make take less by now.
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Notice in the first picture of the whole car the wrecking ball swinging towards it....
Nah, that's just the perfect guy wire to make a 240ZG gallows, lol. (now that would be a shame for sure!)
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i like the defi gauges, what other manufactures are there for gauges other than defi and autometer?
Those are prosport gauges in the link, not actual Defi ones. Defi gauges are not cheap...the cheapest one is at least $200+ and then you need to also buy the control unit (from what I understand). http://www.jscspeed.com/universal/gauges/defi_bfseries_imp.htm
As far as gauges go, there are PLENTY more than Autometer and Defi, although those are some of the more popular ones. Just off the top of my head there is also VDO, Cyberdyne, ISSPRO, AEM, APEXi, Greddy, HKS, Innovate, etc...
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Oh yeah, that's mine (just kidding)
Here are some more pics of the same car (I'm 98.3% confident it is the same one):
It's been one of my Favorites for many years now!!
[Edit: Hey, 280ZForce ...aren't these your B.A.M.F. ZG flares in the back?! Drool!! ]
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I'm sure you'd like to have as big as you can get. Check out Guy80LT1's project page. He did a real nice job on installing Autometer gauges for the instrument and center clusters.
Interior...
*Autometer Phantom Series 5" Speedo and Tach
*Autometer Phantom Series 2 1/6" A/F ratio and Fuel leve gauges
*Autometer Phantom Series 2 5/8" Oil Pressure' date=' Voltmeter, and Water Temp gauges
*Customized cluster for the gauges with blue LED lights for turn signals and check engine linghts!
[/quote']
You can also fit 2 1/16" gages in the center cluster (or in a early RX7 gauge pod on the A-pillar). I replaced the OEM boost gauge with a Nordskod digital AFR. The stock gauge hole diameter is almost exactly 2 1/16". I just trimmed the bottom part of the factory hole to make it fit.
Hope this helped...
Later, -hughdogz
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Plus the FPR for SU carbs is REALLY big compared to the stock FI regulator, I think you would have noticed.
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Sweet! Sounds pretty bada$$ to me.
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I know you're going to kill me for asking this, but did you put a carburated engine fuel pressure regulator on there? It sounds like that is what's happening. Either that or you put the gauge in the return instead of the inlet, but that doesn't sound right either since you said it IS in the inlet.
Well, it won't be running too rich now!
Huh...wierd. Somone will reply with more knowledge than me. -
More wise comments Gollum!
I'm probably going to stick with my recirculation setup for the new Turbo. I hope it still works well.
I'm still foggy on how the HKS surge tanks work (and Monzter's holy grail project) with regard to having the BOV attached to it venting to atmosphere. I believe you need either ITB's or tripples...I'm guessing it keeps the turbo spooled as much as possible and bleeds off the unnecessary charge.
I wanted to have the BOV attached to the intake manifold that I plan to make, but I'm pretty sure you would need throttle plates after the manifold in order for it to work.
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Also, in my experience the stock recirc (found on the #4 intake runner) was good for 10psi until I added the intercooler and piping. I started getting what sounded like surge, I think it couldn't vent all the extra volume of air in the piping.Well there is a stock bypass, and some have said it's good to 10PSI... but I'd be very cautious at that point. It's really only designed to handle the 5-7psi that stock delivers. 10PSI is a LOT more air, especially if you have an intercooler like mario talked about.
You have to consider how short the stock piping is. If you venture beyond the capability of the stock bypass then the air has NOWHERE to go. It's not hard to put excess pressure on the turbo and start destroying it.
Ahh…I get it now. Thanks for explaining this guys. I seem to remember the stock bypass valve connection openings on the J-Pipe and 4th intake runner couldn’t be much bigger than ½”-3/4” (~12-18mm). That (maybe also the type of valve) would definitely be a bottleneck considering most BOV / recirculation valve are perhaps 38mm+.
I'd also like to know what your A/F ratios were on your dynos. The L28ET goes lean on top almost no matter what' date=' I think it has to do with the stock fuel curve. So don't expect it to hold a 10.5 or 11:1 ratio. Odds are it'll run really rich at the bottom and then lean out. [/quote']I’ll have to dig out that old dyno graph from Torque Freaks…it was probably five years ago.
well the engine has a stock pop off valve, which is not the same thing, the pop off valve is on the back of the intake manifold, close to the egr valve, its only purpose is to keep the engine from over boosting incase say your hose on your wastegate came undone, it would let all the potential pressure from ur turbo get into the engine, and 14 psi is dangerous w/o an intercooler or blow off valve, so it opens to let the excess pressure out. a blow off valve is inline between the throttle body and the air outlet of your turbo, i.e. your intake piping. when the throttle closes, the turbo is still spinning, thus still producing air, when the throttle plate closes that air has nowhere to go, so it rebounds back to the turbo, causing it to slow, or in extreme cases stop or spin backwards, very bad for it, and the more psi you have the more risk you have of damaging your turbo this way, so the blow off valve lets that excess air out so it doesn't damage anything, and keeps your turbo spooled upYes, you are right that there is a difference between a safety pop valve and a Blow-off / recirculation valve. The stock L28ET does employ a sort of bypass valve which is what I was wondering about, not the safety pop valve. Good summary of why you need a good BOV / recirc valve ‘83!
So, this leads me to a new question of whether or not I should run my HKS recirc valve as recirculating or vent to atmosphere after I install my T3/T04E this summer. I need to reseach more. Cheers Guys!
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Yasin, I look up to you for taking the correct action and not losing your cool (I know you were steamed, but you witheld from getting physical).
So, now that we're telling war stories, lol...
I grew up in a suburb outside Chicago and my friend "Dennis the menace" was bragging about hitting cars passing in front of his house with get this...FROZEN ORANGES!! Well, one guy he hit got out of his car. Dennis went inside the house to hide. The guy KICKS IN the locked front door! Dennis said he hid behind the couch and the guy couldn't find him.
Gaaah! The crazy stupid, disrespectful things we do as kids...
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Yeup, been posted here at least 2 other times I’m aware of.
Very pleasant and easy to talk with, local to the Portland area. He has been to the Canby Datsun meet, watched him run at PIR one night. His brother Roger is into Z cars and has a few nice 240’s, one of which we just delivered a flattop L-28 with an MN-47 head for with Triple Webers. In fact, Rogers engine is the example I used in the pictures for the degreeing camshaft thread.
Oh man, Paul when you showed me how aggressive the cam for Roger's engine was, my jaw dropped open! I've never seen a lobe undercut the main shaft before.
I wonder when Roger will get it installed. Is he still waiting on eye-browing the pistons? (Sorry the the thread jack)
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Or perhaps because that's the way you said it a couple posts back I didn’t notice that either as I just cut and pasted “assuming†that quote is exactly what he wanted.
All is better now,
What the...?!
You guys are right! Oops! BAD typo, Bad typo. Maybe I should get dumbest smart guy title back (just kidding Paul).
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Hi Gollum, I don't doubt anything you and Mario said about being able to boost to 10psi. Those are good points you make about making sure your AFR's don't go too lean.
When my bone stock L28ET was at the dyno I was running lean above say 4750 RPM.
Also, doesn't the stock L28ET manifold have a built-in bypass valve (to protect against surging) for when the throttle valve shuts? Why is a BOV so important with regard to boosting above 7psi if the stock bypass valve is working as it should?
I'm not trying to argue with you guys, and you're probably more on spot than me, but I just want some more insight into your reasonings.
Thanks and Best regards, -Hugh
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I know this won't help any, but congratulations on getting the MegaSquirt up and running!!
Good Job Lukaniuk!
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I think your O2 sensor is fine.
If you can display the AFR ratio, you can test it by breathing on it compared to free air.
Huh...wierd. Somone will reply with more knowledge than me.
Importance of trigger sync hole location for the CAS
in Wolf3D
Posted
I finally solved my trigger sync error problem!
The sync reference hole was drilled too close.
See the details in my project page post:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=881505&postcount=27
Cheers, -hughdogz