hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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I don't know if JDM had the "Euro" split front indicators for an S130, but something else to watch out for.
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^^^ Saweeet! I'll take two sets please...
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I remember my buddy had this same sort of situation in his ~70 Chevy pickup. He tried for hours to put that clip back on, but it was like the steering column shortened?!
After watching his frustration for a little while, I went under the hood, pushed up on the steering linkage toward the cabin, and Voila! I told him "now that's thinking outside the box...er cabin!" lol.
He let the shaft slide down into the column just enough so the clip wouldn't go back on. I don't know if this will help you situation, but it is something to check out.
I just removed the steering wheel hub last weekend on my ZX. I'm soooo glad I resisted the urge to remove the spring because something was tempting me to do so.
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It would be cool if you could somehow find a low-priced Cusco LSD for the R200 in my '82 ZXT.
You probably would want to check it instead of carry-on though.
I know there are a couple guys here that want "Fairlady 280Z" badges for their restoration or just for the JDM bling...
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Interesting...I never realized they work along with the stock regulator. I heard it works great for some and not for others. Unless you could control the rate at which it rises, then it may be hard to control.
I hate to say it, but how to increase the fuel pressure on the stock FI has been discussed in detail many times, I found out about those tricks from searching HBZ!
There is a reason why so many of us have gone to megasquirt, etc. You may actually lose HP installing say a header or bigger cam if you don't address the fuel problem properly because of the way the Bosch L-jetronic EFI is limited in it's adjustability. Either that or you'll be so pig rich at idle and low engine loads, that you could have fouling problems...not to mention emissions and gas prices these days.
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i did just that i increased the amount of incoming air, and need the extra fuel
Ahhh...I see. You could try bumping up the static pressure of the stock FPR and that might get you where you want to be. Just take off the vac hose and get a big socket and tap the housing down to increase the preload on the valve spring inside (I'm pretty sure that's the side you want to modify).
But, getting more fuel by increasing the fuel pressure is not the same as going to bigger injectors or increasing the injector opening time. i.e. If you double the fuel pressure, that doesn't necessarily mean you will double the fuel injected.
You can also squirt more fuel using the stock FI by putting in a resistor, or better yet a potentiometer inline with the engine temp sensor, fooling the computer into thinking the engine is cold so it will inject more fuel...
Another way is to reset the teeth or adjust tension inside the airflow meter...
If the MSA one is the one I'm thinking of, it is a rising rate AFPR. It is different from a normal AFPR. Instead of 1 psi increase in fuel pressure for every increase in manifold pressure, it may do 2:1 (for instance) but it is more than 1:1.
As far as easy plumbing goes to tie into the stock fuel rail, you could stay with barbed (brass) fittings and still use high-pressure FI hose (5/16"). You would definitely want to install a gage as well. People usually install a billet fuel rail and use AN hoses and fittings to make the plumbing neater and bigger than 5/16".
Hope this helped...to be honest these tricks are kind of a "stop gap" (at best) and are not meant to be a substitute for a properly programmed ECU.
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The best performance? Not sure what you mean...either they adjust the fuel pressure according to manifold pressure or they don't.
To be honest, there isn't a regulator that will give you more power or performance more than the stock one would (all else being equal). They just give easier adjustability of the static fuel pressure. You can bump up the fuel pressure of the stock regulator too, but unless you increase the amount of incoming air, and need the extra fuel, why enrich the mixture and lose power?
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No worries!
Crazyturbo, when can we see some videos or more pictures of your racecar?
Thanks, -Hugh
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The fun has begun!
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is the taco output wire the pink one!?
Nah, the wolf's taco output is the dark-brown color "number two" ought gage!
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Measure the outer diameter of the compressor inlet. I'm pretty sure that stock is 2.25".
The inducer diameter of the compressor wheel will give you a rough idea of how much flow the turbo is capable of producing.
Wigen-OutS30 has a thread on comparing the stock turbo to a bigger turbo that also has a Nissan compressor housing.
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....The taco output from the wolf.
Now that's funny!
Humor aside, I appreciate the advice crazyturbo.
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I don't respond to any of the bad grammar/text style posts. If they can't present a question any better that that, why should I waste time trying to help them?
However, it makes the site look idiotic & ricer-ish, which is a very bad thing.
Ban them!!!!!
jt
I couldn't agree more. I say if they post in "IM text" ban them for a day, next offense a week, etc.
I get so turned off when I visit other Z forums...it reminds me of a high-school cafeteria! Yet another reason why I really enjoy hanging out at HBZ.
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Although it may not be the preferred method, but I heard you can weld Aluminized steel to stainless steel without too much hassle.
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A narrow band O2 is soooo different than wideband. A wideband can detect a wide range of AFR's maybe 7-20 AFR.
A narrow band is nearly a "binary" sensor since the voltage versus AFR function is nearly vertical around 14.7 AFR.
Basically, a narrow band can tell you if you are rich or lean, but not by how much.
[Edit: I meant voltage versus AFR, not voltage versus time...]
Would it be possible to just use the stock narrowband sensor in the 280zx along with a multimeter. One of the sites listed above states that the output of a narrowband should be 0.5 volts at 14.7:1.I was thinking about adding some connections to the o2 sensor and wiring it into the cab of the car. That way when I make any changes to the engine (boost, porting, whatever) I can connect a multimeter to my test points inside the car and make sure that I am still getting enough fuel. Just looking for a cheap way to read out some AFR information, and this method is free.
Eventually I could just build my own meter for the narrowband using LED's. But for now a multimeter seems like it would work just as well.
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Hi Bo,
Maybe I'm reading your reply wrong (or vice-versa)....
I'm hoping to use Innovate as the only data logger, and not get into any Wolf data logging. Plus, I didn't upgrade to the newer V500 that supports better datalogging, etc. (we know Wolf datalogging is weak, but the EMS control is incredible)
I'm going to try to follow in your footsteps :hail:and use the spreadsheet method (or maybe Logworks2) to determine the new injector opening time based on lambda AFR.
I really appreciate all your guys' support!
I'm getting so close (yet I'm still so far) that it hurts! lol.
Hugh, before you expend too much energy in this endeavor, I would seriously look at Wolf's logging capabilties for their input channels. I tried logging my knock sensor as well as AFR voltage from my O2 sensor and Wolf could log the individual channels. I could never get it to show me the data. -
Too bad it won't work for us S130 Turbo guys. They used to sell one that will fit an S130 with a Nissan 5-speed, but will not fit with a Borg-Warner T5.
I can't believe these used to sell for $300!
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Master Ron, thanks for the advice!
I have an LMA-3 I can use as an external MAP. It shouldn't be too difficult to figure out how to correlate the two MAP sensors.
I just need to install the LMA-3 and tee the manifold pressure signal.
Good times!
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I want to use a Wolf output to output the MAP signal so that it can be datalogged.
Is there a way through either Wolf's General purpose output or the multi-controller output to output a 0-5V signal that can be used by an Innovate datalogger?
I'm planning on using an LM-1 and an LMA-2 rpm converter hooked up to the Wolf to do my initial tuning, and install a more robust, permanent data logging setup (sensors and gages) at a later time...
At minimum, I need to log load% (MAP), RPM and AFR.
Thanks, -hughdogz
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And the more obvious:
1) Says 280ZX_Turbo on the fenders emblems instead of 280ZX
2) It has an Turbo emblem on the rear hatch above the lights
3) The turbo will have a factory boost gage in the center pod
4) They came with 15" snowflake rims (I belive all turbo years came that way)
5) Has to be an '81-'83 and the '81's were all A/T
6) Only the Turbos in '81 had the Naca duct on the hood
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only vinyl i would even consider is the nismo vinyl package that is on the s-tune and r-tune nismo cars
I agree, some graphics can be tastefully done, especially if they are factory (or psudo-factory). The Nismo graphics look pretty stylish to me since they are pretty subtle. Also ZXR or 280z Zzzap! are pleasing.
But come on, an Asian dragon on a domestic Hemi?? I don't get it. It seems like a kung-fu fighting superhero's car. Unless you are a superhero, I wouldn't be rocking those graphics, lol...
Racing stripes would be cool though...I don't know exactly the history behind racing stripes...do they make your car easier to see for the other drivers?
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Nooooooo!!!!! Just say No to rice (please).
Hybridz is for extreme performance! Stickers, vinyl graphics, spinners, fake BOV sounds, etc. are pretty much shunned around here.
Sorry, I don't mean to be rude but it is the truth...if you want a better response you might have better luck at zeecardawtcom.
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^^ Anyone know what kind of wheels those are in the second pic? Are they sportmax 007's?
Output internal MAP to be used by Innovate datalogger?
in Wolf3D
Posted
:lmao:Haha! Good one Careless. You got me...I looked back at my post and you're right racecar was spelled backwards!
My favorite is "Mad Dog" spelled backwards. Every time I took a slug off our shoplifted Mad Dog 20 / 20's in high school, I'd say the name backwards, lol.