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hughdogz

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Posts posted by hughdogz

    Turbo Intake Plenum

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    i dont know why staged compressor blades would . It seems that staged compressor blades would INCREASE efficiency and not reduce the efficiency?!

     

    I totally agree Prox, that was a typo on my part. I knew somone would prove me wrong :D I found a Wiki that explains pretty much the same thing you mentioned.

     

    Sorry Monzter, back on topic...I wonder if it would be worth looking at the swirl pattern having just one (or two) open at a time?

    hughdogz's 1982 280ZX-T

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    I think I have the idle air figured out now.:P

     

    Notice that I flipped the idle regulator 180 degrees. I think it fits much better now. You can see wires for the TPS, trigger, idle air and IAT sensors coming out of the harness are wrapped with friction tape. Also a better pic of the modified distributor cap:

     

    idle_air_remounted.jpg

     

    The hose feeds into a brass 90 degree fitting that I made another bung for. It is on the side of my intake charge pipe. If I had my wits about me when I made my IAT bung, I would have incorperated a 1/4" NPT tapped hole so it would all be hidden! Oh well, live and learn...but hey, no more Airflow meter!! :flamedevi

     

    idle_air_inlet.jpg

     

    Okay, back to work...I'm almost ready to see if the "green light" will come on. :willy_nil

    Heater Options?

    in Interior

    Posted

    Are you sure it is the core and not just the valve or one of the hoses? Gabe (WigenoutS30) said he used a Honda valve to replace his leaky one. Honda fans are a popular mod, heck maybe a Honda heater core will work too! :weird:

    Turbo Intake Plenum

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    For example.. turbo jet engines such as the CF6-6 engine in the DC-10-10 have 16 stages of compressor blades.. the more pressure on compressor section one.. the more the total output is after the 16th stage into the combustion chamber..

     

    I could be wrong here, but I seem to remember from my thermo class the bigger reason to used staged compressors is to reduce the total amount of entropy (and thus efficiency)

     

    i.e. The total entropy is less across sixteen stages than one stage assuming the overall pressure drop is the same.

     

    I'm sure there are many here that are WAY more knowledgeable than me, so if I'm proved wrong I won't be that surprised...:wink:

    OEM Idle Air Controller open or closed?

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

    Go to pdf on bottom of page. I forgot who posted this frist but it was one of the best reads for me. FI bible!

     

    Thanks for that link Worldson. That really helped me understand how the AAR works.

     

    Initially, I re-located mine so the in / out would remain the same. However, it fits much better now that I flipped it around. Since there isn't a check valve, I think I'm still safe flipping it around?

     

    I wish there was an easy way to retain the hookup for the coolant passage though...

    The bars under our names?

    in Site Support

    Posted

    I searched like MJ said and SuperDan said it is purely based on number of posts...I thought I read somewhere that it used to be the case but not anymore. Not that it really matters to me, as long as I don't get banned.:wink:

     

    Ok, starting with the titles under your member name.

    These are based on your post count, posts in the Non-Tech forum do not count towards your posts but here is the breakdown.

     

    Junior Member 0 to 29

    Member 30+

     

    The colored bars under your member name.

     

    The BLUE bar.

    Increases as your post count increases and scales from 0 to 10,000 posts, same rules above apply.

    There are 12 different steps and increments when your post count is equal to or greater than the following.

    1

    30

    100

    250

    500

    1000

    2500

    4000

    5500

    7000

    8500

    10000

     

    The YELLOW bar.

    This bar is given to members who donate to the board and increments based on the amount given.

     

     

    Dan

    Other Cars to Hybridize

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I found these recently on youtube. Hope they're not a repost...

     

    Opel Manta, a bit like this one:http://www.hilmersson-racing.com/start.asp?show=ea

     

     

     

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBd4zdsFMr8

     

     

     

    Subaru Brat with WRX/Sti driveline. I'm not sure if its possible without mutilating the Brat, but boy would that take people by surprise!

     

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enMDCVKVjUc <= Here it is!

     

    Maybe the 30-somethings can relate when I say that my favorite Stomper 4x4's were the Subaru brat and 280ZX :D

    How to connect wires?

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Now I have to throw in my $0.02 (even though I'm still an amature). :D

     

    I've used probably 20-30 weatherpacks so far. To crimp these correctly, you need a special crimping tool and the removal tool like Jerryb mentioned is really handy. Also, the terminals and seals come in 18-20ga, 14-16, 10-12, etc. Be careful what you order because the terminals cannot be re-used. As KTM said, use these in places where you might need to disconnect a sub-harness.

     

    As far as juction resistance goes, I don't think there is much difference between soldered versus crimped, as long as they are both good quality. Not sure if this is true, but I heard they don't allow soldered joints on aircrafts. I believe what it really comes down to is how strong the connection is (and how well it is sealed to protect against corrosion). You want try to avoid 90 degree soldered junctions. If you do solder, double wall shrink tubing is really good. It will stiffen the wires and the junction keep movement to a minimum.

     

    Uninsulated butt connectors used with double wall shrink tubing has much better strain relief than insulated butt connectors. Ring terminal connections are less prone to vibration and less likely to get pulled out than push-on spade terminals. I'm also guessing that with a butt connector, you can crimp a really good compressive stress in the terminals and it would have a little less resistance than between pushed-on terminals.

     

    Other great tools are those screwdriver-looking continuity testers and 12V testers.

     

    Hope this helped...

     

    [Edit: There is also "friction tape" that is much better than regular electrical tape. It doesn't have adhesive, you stretch it on and it holds and is even semi-reuseable.]

    coast to coast in an s30

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    After re-reading my post it sounded pretty funny. I heard you're supposed to vary the rpms when breaking in an enginge and thought that applied...

     

    I really miss my cruise control. It went out, or I somehow did something to not let it work. It would be great if I could hook it up again. I only want it for the drive down to SoCal for the MSA show...

    coast to coast in an s30

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    One thing I noticed in my ZXT is that after about 10 hours or so, my cabin gets completely heat soaked!!

     

    I would also like to know the reasoning behind varying the speed too. I try to keep a constanst speed for better milage, but I suppose it could wear a lip into the cylinders walls? Thats all I can come up with...

    New MSA catalog........

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    I think vertical doors has been a vendor at the MSA shows for a couple years now. Vertical doors started making them for either the 350Z or Z32 first.

     

    If a Z33 or Z32 is already completely "pimped out" then sure, why not add Lambo doors. The vertical door units seemed pretty beefy looking at the demo. The cool think about the vertical doors brand is that you can swing them out like stock or get the vertical bling action going in case you encouter a REAL Lamborghini. :lmao:

     

    I know most all of us on HBZ are bling allergic or at least quickly realizing the ridiculousness of F'nF bling bug through osmosis!

     

    I think there is a healthy balance of performance versus bling. The cool part is, most of the time you build it for performance, the "bling" naturally falls out (and it isn't artificial bling either). But in the case of $1500 door hinges, I think I'd rather spend that money somewhere else...

     

    Now if you really want to discuss the fine line of bling versus performance, what about the $200 reuse-able oil filter?? I would think it would be a PITA to have to clean it, and does it really filter that much better than a conventional filter? Say that you change your $5 oil filter every three months. That equates to a 10-year break even point. Is the "performance" worth it? I dunno...

    hughdogz's 1982 280ZX-T

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    I finally got around to making an Intake Air Temp sensor bung and idle regulator bracket.

    IAT_regulator_mounts2.jpg

    Air temp sensor is a Bosch unit that has an o-ring seal. If I keep it away from the manifolds, it will be less likely to get heat soak.

     

    The IAT will mount on the underside of the tube after the intercooler exit.

    IAT.jpg

    (I know...no one likes my welding..;) )

     

    Inside:

    inside.jpg

     

    The Idle air mounts to the block where the A/C used to be:

    regulator_installed.jpg

    As you can see, it is plugged for now but will be replaced with a filter...I still have my doubts if this one will work or not. [Edit: I found out a filter will not work...it needs to remain a closed system (thanks Ron!)}

     

    Maxima 3-wire TPS painted and new mounting holes:

    TPS.jpg

     

    Wrinkle painted the trigger cover (formerly known as a distributor cap :-)):

    engine.jpg

     

    I extended the intake pipe since I removed the airflow meter. I'll take more pics later...

    OEM Idle Air Controller open or closed?

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    I've searched around and couldn't come up with a straight answer so...

     

    I want to use the stock idle air controller (air regulator) with an aftermarket EMS to control the cold idle speed.

     

    With my stock one, the valve is open with no signal going to it. This would make my idle really high since it has almost no restriction. I tested it with a 9V battery and it didn't seem to close it at all.

     

    Is it broken? It seemed to work fine when I had it hooked up last.

     

    I have a different one from a VW / Audi / Volvo and it is closed with no voltage. I would rather not use it since I have to make (another) bracket for it and it has a bigger openings than the OEM one.

     

    I read someone said the 240SX is a good one to use...if I didn't have a bracket for the stock one already made, I'd probably go for the 240SX.

     

    What are you guys using?

     

    Thanks for your time reading this. -hughdogz

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