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hughdogz

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Posts posted by hughdogz

    cheap boost controller (home depot)

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I also made my own MBC using a 1-way adjustable valve from Grainger / McMaster-Carr.

     

    Anyhoo, if I were to buy an MBC today, I'd go with one of these bad boys:

     

    BC-10.jpg

     

    Hallman! (clicky)

     

    [Edit: Like Mario said, drill the rivet on top just enough to pop the cover off. This way the cap will stay put when it is back on. You can get bigger washers and find a stiff spring from the hardware store and shim the valve shut. But you shouldn't be boosting more than ~9psi non-intercooled, I guess you can do ten but I'd be using hi-octane gas for sure.]

    How do I remove keyed gas cap without the key?

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    Good thing it isn't locked on there with no gas left in the tank! :mrgreen:

     

    I would take it to a locksmith to see if they can match it to your ignition key. Otherwise, you can buy another one from MSA (clicky) ($34) but then you might have three seperate keys to tote around...

     

    Which reminds me, I have to find my cap key. I had to buy a new cap from MSA one year since I forgot the cap at the pump somewhere between LA and San Diego. We're not allowed to pump our own gas in Oregon, so I was out of my element! :lmao:

    Admins, they are so clever!

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    dogZhuge. Yeup! Sure does. You wanna keep it or, go back to DogZhuge or something else?

     

    I LIKE it! :P Thanks BRAAP

     

    ...I was living up to the "Dumbest Smart Guy" name too much, bah. :bonk::lmao:

     

    DogZhuge was cool, but not everyone knows my best friend is a 130+ pound Akita...

    Still running rich, perhaps I missed something?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Is there any specific place I need to hook it? Also, what pressure range am I looking to be in?

     

    Try to get gauge mounted inline just before the fuel rail inlet.

     

    You're looking for 43 psi with the vacuum line detached (plug the detached hose). Depending upon how much vacuum you're pulling at idle, it will probably be around 36 psi at idle with the vacuum line attached (assuming 7 psi vacuum manifold gage pressure).

    Where's the Inhibitor Switch?

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    ...The location of the relay is disclosed, but the Inhibitor Switch location is not talked about.

     

    I need to locate, and bypass it. Does anyone know the location? ...

     

     

    Hi Mike,

     

    I believe the inhibitor switch itself is be bolted to the auto tranny externally, but I'm not sure.

     

    You should check with Ruel. He just got done doing nearly the same swap two weeks ago (although the swap was Auto to a T5, not a Nissan 5-speed).

     

    If you look in the Haynes manual, the inhibitor switch uses five wires. Ruel did the trial and error method to figure out which ones to jump together so it will start.

     

    Good luck! -Hugh

    Injectors vs. Ethanol issue

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    I believe the impetus behind this post is because in the PDX area, there has been a recent rash of injector failures on Z31's and Z32's.

     

    If a new ethanol formulation (in conventional pump gas) truly tears apart the inside of the rubber FI hoses, then the hoses must be replaced to a ethanol-tolerant type as well as having to replace or repair the injectors.

     

    I'm interested to know the answer too. Replacing all the hoses now would definately be cheaper (and easier) than having to replace the injectors again and again.

    600hp??????

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    ...some people will NEVER understand that craigslist is the last place to play the scheisty salesman. :rolleyesg

     

    Daeron, you wouldn't believe what has been going on in the PDX craigslist lately:

    • A guy tried selling an infant baby on CL and was quickly arrested
    • Two people burglarized someone's house and made a spoof CL posting that everything in the guy's house was free to take (to "cover" their tracks!, lol)

    hughdogz's 1982 280ZX-T

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    I've been busy but I don't seem to be getting very far. All I can think about is getting ready for the cruise to SoCal for MSA 2008!

     

    There has only been a few dry days in the past month or so for me to street tune. I still have a long way to go in troubleshooting / configuration / tuning before I'll be happy with going on a long road trip. I bet it would make it down there as-is, but it wouldn't be sipping the gas...

    • Tires are on order, hopefully I'll have the wheels mounted this week
    • Installing the LC1 didn't go too bad, except they forgot to include a 2.5mm patch cable, so I can't hook up to the LMA-3 yet. D'oh!
    • I connected a type-k quick response thermocouple to the LMA-3, but I haven't mounted it in the exhaust yet. I still have to figure out if I want to ditch my Autometer EGT gage and go with an Innovate XD-1 (expensive), or could I mount two probes when I install a spacer & the new turbo...hmm.
    • Silicone vacuum lines near the hot turbine / exhaust manifold have been covered in Taylor 1200 degree F sheathing
    • Bought a Garmin GPS navigation unit that will give me accurate highway speeds. I also have a 16GB SD flash memory card so I can play a few MP3's along the way

    Well, here are some pics so you know what I'm talking about...

     

    LC1 installed:

    LC1_installed.jpg

     

    Here is a switch (with LED indicator) I assembled used for triggering a free air calibration of the Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband O2 sensor:

    reset_led.jpg

     

    Here are my sensor connectors that I have disconnected. Normally, they are hidden behind all the intercooler piping.

    sensor_harness.jpg

    (Clockwise from bottom left: Intake air temp sensor, throttle position sensor, crank angle sensor, coolant temp (dash gage), idle air controller.

     

    Here's that high temp Taylor sheathing I had to use since the silicone might melt if the turbo gets red-hot:

    1200_sheath1.jpg

     

    See what I mean?

    1200_sheath2.jpg

     

    I'm also still having trouble with noise in the crank angle sensor above 4500 RPM. I already tried shielding the wires, drilling a new chopper wheel for the hall-effect optical sensor, but no improvement. Maybe I'll have to try better shielding than aluminum foil and a jumper wire! :lol:

     

    There's a ton more wiring now behind the glove box, since I added the LC1 without an XD-1. I'll take more pics later when I get my hands on a patch cable to finish the job! :P:rolleyesg:icon50:

     

    -hughdogz

    Wolf V500 EMS Installation Guide

    in Wolf3D

    Posted

    Has anyone found a solution to this problem?

     

    I got my cardboard V500 box, and I can't seem to find the wolf in it.

     

    I used a sawzall as suggested, but all I see in there now are what looks to be wire clippings and random connectors used as packaging material, and two nice red metalic measuring cups. one with a small barb fitting, possibly for easy gravity sipping of orange juice.

     

    help? :oops:

     

    Ahhh...yeah, that's what happened to me too (the first time). So I got another Wolf V500 unit. I found a new method to get it out of the cardboard box:

    Important steps:

    • Bake the box (as recieved) in an oven at 550 degrees F for approximately 24-48 hours.
    • Have a bucket of ~28 degrees F ice water nearby (use generous amounts of salt to decrease the melting point)
    • After removing from the oven, IMMEDIATELY quench the box and contents below the surface of the water. Use bricks as necessary to keep it below the surface. (You may witness large amounts of steam and "crackling noises" coming from inside the box, this is normal)

    • Let the box soak in the salt water for 2-3 days (The cardboard should fall right off after the 3rd day)
    • Apply generous amounts of di-electric grease to the connector pins ensuring you get plenty of contact resistance, if the salt didn't coat the pins adequately

    If this doesn't work, contact your authorized Wolf dealer and ask for a free replacement. :weird:

     

    Good Luck! -hughdogz

    Will fuel injection hose work as an oil line? (and a rambling unimportant update)

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    To convert to an, you can retap the block to NPT and run a standard brass t.... many people will disagree with me here but I've done it several times and it works great. Just run a NPT into the BSP hole, the NPT will seal.

     

    Or you can weld a AN fitting on top of the factory steel t if you have a welder

     

    or you can run an adapter

     

    or you can..

     

    Whoo Hoo!! Thanks Austin, this gives us a lot of options. Cheers! -hughdogz

    Will fuel injection hose work as an oil line? (and a rambling unimportant update)

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Thanks MJ!

     

    I'll have to check that out myself. I haven't done too much research in this area yet.

     

    I'm assuming that the stock oil restrictor is housed in the Tee for the oil pressure sending unit. Since the stock oil line uses a compression fitting, it is probably not NPT treads, so a 1/8" (or 1/4") NPT to -3 or -4 AN fitting may not work with the stock tee.

     

    To use an AN oil line, I think it would be easiset to get a different tee fitting that can accomodate 1/8" (or 1/4") NPT's. Am I totally off base? Ehh...I probably just have to search archives to find out for sure. :lol:

     

    Thanks again, -Hugh

     

    [Edit: I meant to say flare nut fitting, not compression fitting. I need to use the correct terminology, right? Sorry about that...]

    Will fuel injection hose work as an oil line? (and a rambling unimportant update)

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Use Braided -3 or -4 AN line for for feed. Its worth the effort and makes for a clean install, however dont forget to add an oil restrictor if you go this route. I prefer to use silicon hose for the dump tube, it seems to hold up very well and isnt a pain in the a55 like a huge an line would be in that cramped space. ATP sells 5/8" silicon for this purpose.

     

    Hi Austin, I'm going to have to go the AN route soon myself.

     

    So the reason being for the oil restrictor is so that you don't "rob" the engine of oil, diverting too much of it to the turbo?

     

    I'll check if ATP sells these oil restrictors...Thanks! -hughdogz

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