hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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Thanks, and technically, It's not a classified ad. I'm just mearly stating what I'm bringing with me. "Z, Wife, 240Z upgrades, and a butt load of gas money, fricken prices are rediculous.
Any body else traveling as far as we are? 1200 miles.
Dave.
Are you referring to Gasoline prices or your products?
(j/k Dave). -
^^^ Man, I'm falling behind the times. I have no idea what the heck AWHFY BF???? means.
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Holy ****! That site you made is AWESOME Chris.
I'm going to have to do some serious reading tonight...Thanks!
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wierd...i'd think a 0 offset since it's in the middle...but good to know...thanks!
It's not in the middle since an 8" rim is 8" from inside to inside, where the tire mounts. But overall width is 9" when you include the thicknesses of the mounting lip (outside to outside).
(8"+1")/2 = 4.5 inches, this is the centerline of the wheel (going from the outside). It it was zero offset, then the backspace would be 4.5 inches.
Since they are -12 offset, the mounting face is inward 12mm (~1/2") from the centerline. That is how it is 4" backspacing.
I hope this helped...
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*Bump*
Okay, come on guys...I know there are a lot members who know much more about IC design than me that could contribute to the discussion.
I would like to know if any of my comments were wrong.
Anyone? *crickets chirping* -
yay!! happy birthday Big-Phil!!
1972 was a great year since we were both born then, lol.
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Okay, I think I know why I was so confused. When you create a thread in one of the "conventional" forums, even the the advanced edit capabilites are limited.
But, when you edit your project page thread, you have more options since you are kind of the admin to your project thread. i.e. delete post is an option
That's probably why I see the delete post option in the advanced options sometimes but not others.
Over a year has gone by of me being a member and I still haven't figured out all the in's and out's yet.
*you guys crack me up*
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Prox, don't tell me you haven't seen Monzter's exhaust manifold yet? I saw that (a year ago?) and realized this guy is MEGA serious!!
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Whoo hoo! Good sleuthing...congrats Lukaniuk!
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Another great post, but I don't get it, lol.
Is this result opposite to what was in Maximum Boost? Their plots showed maximum flowrate occured at the far end of the inlet end tank, where your lower velocities are. With your plots, high velocity should be high flowrate since mass flow rate = (density * velocity * area) assuming 20 psi across the entire end tank.
For a larger intercooler core pros, you have higher thermal capacity. This has the benefits of resistance to heat soak since it would take more heat to change the average temperature. Plus it has a larger frontal area for more cooling area to be available. Generally speaking of course...as you've just shown it also depends on the IC efficiency. I'm sure you already know a heat exchanger efficiency is a measure of the ability to change incoming air to ambient (and how little the pressure will drop).
The only thing I can come up with for cons are perhaps packaging and blocking cooling air to the radiator. I'm curious if there is generally a bigger pressure drop. Definitely more volume to pressurize, but I don't know if this will be noticeable in increased "turbo lag". Even with a bigger IC, mass flow rate is the same in or out.
If you can modify the end tank to straighten, distribute and direct the flow evenly, it seems you're increasing the flow and thus efficiency of the IC and getting the larger frontal area too! If you get a couple more psi drop you can crank up the boost to compensate, as long as you're not already maxing out the compressor efficiency.
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*snaps fingers* damn I missed it! (whatever happened) LOL!
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I have 14mm injectors with "stock size" pintle caps (n/a RX7's modified) and -6AN fuel lines to a 3/8" NPT fitting in the rail.
What is -8AN fuel rail stock? 8/16" bore? If so, I can just tap for 3/8" NPT (9/16")
I figured I might have to buy new injectors anyway according to the flange's injector bore style.
Keep us posted...thanks Justin!
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This is a really interesting thread (the S12 part wasn't a bad aside either).
I agree with a lot of what has been said here (and in other threads before). HBZ is a give-and-take atmosphere.
My approach is to help others the best I can, and never make an educated guess without saying you're guessing. At any point, you can only help others that know less than you already do. At the same time, you want to avoid spoon-feeding if it's either obvious that they didn't search at all, or if they are mostly takers and don't give back. I figure if I have a question, I don't feel as bad asking for advice when I know I've done my part in helping others that aren't as savvy yet. If everyone took this approach, we would learn more is less time (in a perfect world) and the takers would have to learn the hard way either through experience (like others before them) or hardcore searching.
However, I see nothing wrong with people who choose not to share some choice info. Especially if that information was gained at high expense in either time & money or both.
I might be totally off base here, but I think that information is analogous to a part. Just because you upgraded doesn't mean that the old part still isn't worth anything to you. It's almost the same with information...
There are some old parts that I would be happy to give away, but others may be worth a lot more to me and I would have a hard time just giving it away This is especially true if it was someone who couldn't fully appreciate the effort expended to gain it since to them it was "free"
...I hope you guys will still answer my posts after reading this.
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T3 compressor inlet is 2.25". I second jeffer949 on the rest.
If you're going with t-bolt clamps (which you should, they're only about $4 each) don't find out the hard way that a 3" t-bolt clamp won't fit a 3" coupler (since the coupler diameter is larger). A 3.5" t-bolt will fit a 3" coupler depending upon if you get 3-ply or 4-ply couplers and the manufacturer. 2" coupler uses 2.375" clamp, 2.625" clamp for a 2.25" coupler, etc. Results may vary, but you get the idea.
You can make a 3" coupler fit the 3.2" AFM if you really stretch it. You can use a an ordinary hose clamp instead of a 3.5-3.75" t-bolt for the AFM since it will never be pressurized above atmospheric.
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NO offense, but I'm glad to see the bling bling wheels goin bye-bye. Nice choice for the upgrades.
Hehe...absolutely no offense taken. In fact, I wish I could burn those Enkei's to the ground. They are so HEAVY and the bling got old fast (~four years ago). I'm sure I can offload them onto craigslist soon. I wouldn't want to pollute our for sale forum with them.
You've seemed to be lucky enough to find a good tire match for height in your size wheels, so go w/ that, although the dims you mention are not that big of a difference, very minimal.Excellent! +1 more expert opinon and we're are all in agreement!
Thanks 280ZForce!
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Hey thanks for the replies Six_Shooter and Evan Purple!!
I'm going with the same size tire diameters / height. It's great to get advice from those that have been there, done that.
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[edit] When I go into "super edit mode" it just enables the advanced mode. I don't see any options for deleting an individual post.
I know the mod functions with vbulletin shows a "delete post" button when you click edit, or you can check next to the post and go to the bottom of the page and select "delete post" in the drop down menu.. But I see neither option in this super edit mode. Maybe I'm just used to the easy way, lol.
This is bizzare. Now I tried to delete one of my last 24 hour posts and I can't see the delete post option under advanced mode (or super-edit ;oP)
If someone replies or views your thread, you cannot delete it anymore?
Meh...I feel like a donkey now, LOL!
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I can't answer the Megasquirt aspect, but if you think the engine might not be getting enough air to start, is it able to start if you crack open the throttle a tiny bit while you're cranking? Can you open up the idle adjustment screw on the TB?
Do you still have an idle air regulator hooked up with "key-on" power? It is seperate from the EFI system.
HTH, -hughdogz
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You never cease to AMAZE Monzter!!
41% more flow is quite an impressive improvement.
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^^^ +1 It sounds like you're dealing with a reputable shop.
It's great they will fix it, but a bummer that it happened in the first place.
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I couldn't find this subject has been covered much through searching.
I'm trying to figure out the "best" tire combination to go with my 7" and 8" wide rims.
I'm thinking of going with some Kumho Ecsta SPT's. 205-50-R17 in front for the 7" wide rim, and 225-45-R17's for the 8" rears. I think these sizes might fit the best going by their spec chart...but I could be wrong.
Using different profiles (50 front and 45 rear) will be 25" and 25.1" diameter tire, respectively. This will give me roughly equal tire / wheel heights.
If I go with the 45 series on both, (but 215 instead of 205 on the front) it would be 24.6" front and 25.1" rear diameters. This is closer to the stock diameter in front, but then the tire / wheel heights will be 1/2" different.
What do our resident experts recommend? Am I making this into a bigger deal than it needs to be?
Here are the rims: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=874333&postcount=23
Any input is appreciated...
Thanks! -hughdogz
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Okay gang, here we go with some test fitment pics!
This is what the P.O. had installed on the Z. Enkei 17x7.5" (+38? offset). They have 5.75" backspacing so that is why they needed 1.25" (32mm) wheel adapters. The tires are Falken Ziex 512's 215-50-R17. They come within about 1/4->3/8" from hitting the strut tube and it looks like the tire has rubbed some on the strut tube already.
So with the adapters, the Enkei's are 4.5" backspacing and mounting face to outside is 4".
Now the Volks in front are 7" with +44 offset. That would give them (7"+1")/2 +44mm - 32mm adapter => 4" + 12 mm => ~4.5" backspace. From mounting face to outside is 3.5". That makes it stick out 1/2 inch less than my current setup. The same holds true for the rear.
Hmm...I could go with a 1.75" (44 mm) adapters, but I'm not going to sweat it for now.
Test mounted:
Cheers, -hughdogz
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Hi Guys,
I'm not sure if this has been covered before, but I thought I'd share...
Once in awhile I see members asking the admins (or admins asking the member) to edit the title of their thread.
It is possible to edit your own title, delete your message, or add smileys by going into what I call Super - edit mode.
You can edit your post within 24 hours of the post and:
- After pressing the edit button, you can only edit the message text
- Press the edit button again (the second edit button) and voila! There are a lot more options.
Later! -hughdogz
ps: if this is old news, I know how to delete it! LOL...
- After pressing the edit button, you can only edit the message text
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Well I finally did it. I found a deal that I couldn't pass up! I'll be sportin' these new wheels soon.
No more Honda rims for me!
They barely fit in front, there is maybe a 1/4" space between the inside edge of the rim to the strut tube. I need to be careful selecting tire section widths to minimize any rubbing issues.
I would like to have a stiff sidewall, but not a stretched look. I would like as wide of a tread as possible, but minimze sidewall deflection or rubbing in front.
I'm thinking of going with some Kumho Ecsta SPT's. 205-50-R17 in front for the 7" wide rim, and 225-45-R17's for the 8" rears. I think these sizes might fit the best going by their spec chart...but I could be wrong. Using different profiles will give 25" and 25.1" diameter wheels. If I go with the 45 series on both, it would be 24.6" and 25".
Here is a cool little Youtube about their manufacturing process.
(j/k Dave).
Anyone? *crickets chirping*
Is this a member?
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
I remember back in my myspace days, that guy was my buddie Stevosupremo. He has two sic Z's...