hughdogz
-
Posts
757 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by hughdogz
-
-
I'am soooo jealous!!! Thanks for tips, how much for the speedo? I'll bet that speed sensor is for crurise. Wonder if there is a mod so I can set the limit above 75mph?
There is a guy on ebay that has been selling the 130 MPH for years...clicky
I think you're right about the speedo sensor being used by the cruise control. Now that I think about it, the seatbelt sensors are in the seat and the latch...I'm not sure it has anything to do with the speed sensor.
Since my cruise control stopped working a couple years ago, and I removed the contollers, all I cared about was the voice warning.
-
Some like the voice warning system, some don't. It's saved me many times with the e-brake, doors and headlights!
It isn't hooked into the stock stereo or the fuel injection system or ignition system. I have a Blaupunkt CD player and a Wolf3D engine management and Betty is still bitchin.
I thought that the voice warning system used the center dash speaker, but I'm not 100% on that. You can replace the speaker and the VWS still works. It's on a circuit all it's own and the record player (seriously, you can hear it spin) is in the passenger rear strut tower.
-
It would be cool to see a convective heat transfer CFD on one like Clifton linked compared to a horizontal. If it isn't internally baffled the flow is really low for the first half of the tubes compared to the second half. Flow exponentially increases along the core length.
I like the vertical core with long end-tanks design for our Z's. Shorter length charge-pipe tubing to run, and less pressure drop for sure. I just don't know if it has comparable efficiency, or if it is more easily heat-soaked than a horizontal core.
Consider that a 24x12" horizontal core has 288 in^2 frontal area wheras the vertical core one posted has ~152 in^2 (22.5x6.75"). That's 90% more frontal area for the horizontal.
-
Hey, I appreciate the follow-up 83zed owner.
It sounds like you didn't keep the speed sensor then. On my '82, there are four electrical connections on the speedo, three of which go to the backside of the instrument cluster printed circuit board (PCB).
Red and green with black stripe wires are for the odometer sensor, and green and yellow with black stripe are for the speed sensor. These all connect to the PCB except for the green with black stripe, which goes into a bullet connector in the main harness.
I'm curious...does your voice warning system still work for the e-brake and doors at speed?
Someday I'll get autometer gages and make my own cluster like Guy did on his 80LT1.
-
Is it good? I think so, 3.5" thick bar and plate design, 1 psi pressure drop at 76.5 lb/min (1000 CFM).
I just don't think it would fit that easy. Just the core is 26" long and it is only 10.5" high.
Sparky said 26" is about the max length including end-tanks. I'd keep looking for something narrower with a 14" or 16" height.
[Edit: In general, height is more important than length for a horizontal core IC, and vice-versa for a vertical core. It's a balancing act of efficiency versus pressure drop.]
-
...but all i did just used the 130 speedo.
Did you use the '79 speed sensor and just extend the wires?
I always seem to do things the hard way.
-
I had to trace down some wires behind the instrument cluster for the coolant temp sensor and Tachometer. I got one of those "while I'm at it" to upgrade the speedometer.
First of all, it wasn't easy to remove the cluster. It wouldn't come out since the factory must have installed it before the vinyl glue for the dash was set. I just trimmed away at the seam until it came out.
Next you have to release the connectors from the PCB. After what seemed like hours, I figured out those latch-clips aren't doing any retaining. You just have to pull REALLY, REALLY hard in order to get those connectors off.
The '79 speedo is quite a bit different than the '82:
-The '82 has six digits for the odometer, while the '79 has only five.
-There is a micro-switch on the '82 that senses the odometer (maybe for a maintenance idiot light?) that the '79 doesn't have.
-The 0 MPH stop uses a "lever" at the top of housing on the '79, while the '82 uses a pin at 0 MPH on the gage face.
-The speed sensor on the '79 has a short pigtail and is mounted on the rear of the housing. The '82 speed sensor is mounted where the 0 MPH stop "lever" is at the top of the housing.
Here is how I made it work:
Since the '79 speed sensor may not work, and the pigtail is definitely too short, I used the '82 speed sensor. The '79 0 MPH stop and the '82 speed sensor cannot be mounted in the same place, so I removed the '79 stop and put the '82 speed sensor in it's place. Next, I drilled a 7/64 inch hole in the '79 face to accept the '82 stop pin.
I'm not sure, but I'm guessing that the speed sensor is only used for a seat belt warning light, or "Bitchin Betty" to notice that the "Parking Brake is ON"
Anyhoo, I searched and didn't find any how-to info, so I thought this might help another non-1979 S130 owner doing the swap.
Please correct me if I'm wrong or if you can vouch for this method.
Thanks, -hughdogz
-
Isn't that what we do for hours when we drop the timing chain into the front cover??
-
Oh, I see I have garnered an "official site moniker"!
Better than what it could have been, I suppose...LOL
Wonder when that changed. Man, I'm oblivious to stuff sometimes.
Wha? You didn't know you were the legendary "Wiki D"?
-
I bet a glass tire would mount on easily.
-
I don't know how to use coil and loft yet (mainly because I have felt that my time is better spent learning solidworks...). I just haven't gotten into it. I will draw up something nice now...
Ouch! hehe...
(sorry I'm biased)Dan, you sure picked up the photoworks fast!! Do you guys get CosmosWorks student edition easily? We could do some CFD on our designs too.
-
Its nice though! I can't express how hard it was to learn how to make the turbines in inventor. I can do it now, more easily, but it still isn't that great.
You could use the Coil feature if the profile is constant, otherwise use Loft for the "through curves".
As for the loading, I loaded mine like "shock loading" taking off in the 1/4 mile.
LOL! So no problems with the ANSYS FEA in Inventor? Guess who is (pretty much) the sole QA Engineer for that program??
Have you tried Dynamic Simulation yet? It is a really powerful tool, but a really steep learning curve with regard to the UI.
Sorry for the off-topic Boost Man Dan....
-
MJ, it should be really easy to move. In fact, there should be almost no resistance.
An easy check is to unbolt the (five ?) bolts that hold the internal wastegate housing to the turbine housing. Fair warning about maybe having to replace the gasket (if there is one) though...
It could be full of carbon or coke if it had an oil bearing failure. How easy is it to spin the impeller / turbine wheel? Is there a lot of play in the axial direction?
HTH...
-
Fortunately I made a wheel paper for my manufacturing process class in where I designed a 17x10 or 17x11 wheel I like quite a lot... Don't ask me about the stress analysis. I never ran it and I am too afraid to.
I was working on a turbine shaped wheel, but never finished... maybe I will finish it.
Just added 17x10 turbine. If only some one would or could make it.
That is awsomoe Man! What CAD program did you use? (looks like my Inventor background)
-
I made this model years ago...
Playing around using Stress Analysis with a 1E4 N tangential bearing loads on the lugs:
FEA mesh:
-
hughdogz, don't worry. 400hp is a lot and will certainly entertain you. Should be able run a very low twelve or even a high eleven 1/4 mile if traction is good enough.
I feel you can make your 375 rwhp goal (430 crank hp) with a msa stage 1 turbo cam and 22 psi of boost. Otherwise, the stock cam would need 24 psi to make 330 rwhp.
Sweet! I have plans to eventually use an MSA stage II cam and do some head work too (unshroud valves, smooth runners, 5-angle valve job). I could also port the exhaust manifold too. These should really help me with my goal.
If jgkurz's calculations are right, even 340 RWHP should be a fun ride.
As some others pointed out, I might be tempting fate by using the ultimate in an S130. It is 1 3/8" thicker than a stock wastegate housing, so I have even less room for a 3" DP.
I hope I won't have interference issues with the DP and firewall. If a 3" CLR donut won't fit I'm screwed!
-
Hey thanks for the info SuperDan!
It sounds like you're already aware of it. It's really not a big deal, I was mainly wondering if it was just me.
Cheers, -Hugh
-
^^^ Me too. Today I looked and all the sudden I have messages from two days ago!
Very funny Mopar69...err...Challenger. Lol!
-
Hi Admins,
It seems like after the server was upgraded, when you go to post / reply it takes forever to come back (I've had it "hang" a couple times). I ended up hitting post reply again and boom - double post. It seems like there are a lot of other members lately that have double-posted.
I've done some experimenting and preview post is fine, but it seems like after the post / reply is submitted, the browser just doesn't bring you back to the thread.
Is it just me? Am I going crazy again?! I'm using Mozilla Firefox 1.5.0.7 on Linux Freespire O/S.
Thanks, -hughdogz
-
Time for another update.
I've been removing the stock FI harness now that I know the Wolf is up and running. I got the main harness to come out without cutting a single wire!!
I still have a couple more circuits to remove, but I want to wait and make sure all gages and lights are still functional when driving it before I do any more removing, and I still need to hook up the Tach and engine temp gage.
Next is installing the LMA-3 datalogger. Innovate says it has to be mounted within 3 degrees of horizontal for the accelerometer to function properly. I was planning on mounting it vertically where the old ECU used to be, but that doesn't sound like an option anymore.
There is no place that I've found so far under the passenger dash for it either. So it looks as though I may have to mount it in the glovebox! What a pain because I'm already wired up where the OEM ECU used to be.
As soon as I have that figured out and wired up, I'll do another "sanity check" with the timing, fuel pressure, and finding the correct current to drive the injectors. They are low-impedance RX-7 (Bosch) units, so I think they should be taking less current than 4 A open and 1 A hold.
Bo (KTM) gave me so much help and advice with learning how to tune!! He answered a LOT of my questions (and explained even more) on how to use the Innovate system and the Wolf (thanks Bo!!
). When I become more familiar with Logworks2, I'll be able to set up the parameters, start driving and collecting data for tuning.Man, it has been a fun ride so far. I'll post another vid soon...I've even had a request or two.
Later!
-
Awesome news Gabe!
I knew you'd get it going in time for the DNI.
-
I shouldn't have replied so soon.
All I'm gonna say is that I didn't have the greatest experience with the custom work done.
I think I'd be doing a dis-service to my fellow HBZ members if I said otherwise or kept my mouth shut.
You can PM me if you have questions.
Sorry for the confusion, -hughdogz
-
Some OEM's already run them, but they are used only for the beverage cooler. IGLOO has had these on the market for years as a 12V plugin to the cigarette lighter.
I'm not sure what the power consuption is, but these won't cool down a beverage, rather they can keep an already cool can cool.
Just like you said, you can reverse the polarity by flip the plug over, and it becomes a warmer.
I've played around with these peltier devices a little. If you heat one side and cool the other, you can generate a small current.
I've even thought of making a "storm-trooper" suit using many of these devices. MEMS technology is already ahead of the peltier technology in this regard since peltiers aren't very efficient.
-
It seems almost impractical with just one unit if they pull 545 Watts. On a 12V system, that means it will pull ~45.4 Ampres. A ZX alternator max output is 60A.
Of course you would also need to bond some heat transfer fins to pull the heat out of the air.
Those peltier devices also generate heat on the other side, so you would also have to figure a way of rejecting the heat generated outside of the cabin, just like an A/C condenser does.
It would probably work really well for a beer chiller though (j/k).
MSnS + MSD + Stock Tach
in MegaSquirt
Posted
I just went through this with the Wolf EMS and my '82 ZXT.
As mentioned before, there are two types of factory Tachs:
-The 240z tachs are current controlled and get their signal from the (+) side of the coil.
-Post-240Z's uses a voltage-controlled tach signal off of the (-) coil terminal.
There are three types of MSD tach adapters:
8910: Voltage-controlled tach adapter
8910EIS: Current-controlled tach adapter
8920: Can be either voltage or current controlled (depending upon how you hook it up)
Tach manuals clicky
If an MSD is not used, you must go with an 8920. If an MSD is used, you can use an 8910 or 8910EIS depending on the application.
For a 280ZX, the blue coil (-) wire that feeds the factory tach actually changes to a light green with white stripe after a resistor. I tied into the the light green with white stripe wire right behind the instrument cluster where it comes out of the circular connector block (pin 20). Connect this wire to the output signal of the 8920.
You should be able to get away with using an 8910 instead of an 8920 since I could run the factory Tach and FI using and MSD6AL and 8910 tach adapter. The 8910's are ~$35 and the 8920's are ~$55.
Hope this helped...