hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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It had better not be fake!
I ordered a T3/T04E from Ken in early December. It has been at his powdercoaters since last year. I've called so many times on it, and it is always scheduled to ship out at the end of next week! Last Friday I called and he says it will ship out this Tuesday.
I'm not trying to say anything negative, in fact the guy is very knowledgeable really nice on the phone. I ordered a custom setup, which was a ceramic coated Ford 5-bolt turbine housing. I've been told the great powdercoater vendor is what is taking so long.
In all due respect, he told me to get ready for a wait...I didn't think would be nearly three months though. My advice is that if you're running into time constraints, skip powdercoating and get that done locally.
It has been mentioned before that as a rule of thumb, if your machinist or engine builder quotes and estimated time, you should double it (to be safe)!
I'm sure I'll be happy with the unit, I just wanted to give a "heads-up" as well for other HBZ members...
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ouch....
haha!
Ouch? I meant that I thought the title was being sarcastic. I'll shut up now.
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I thought "teh" was there on purpose, maybe it meant the the same as "pffff" = whatever. I thought it was part of the joke.
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So in the end what is the difference between a higher offset and a lower offset for a rim? Is one more appealing? Does one perform better? I am looking at 17 x 9.5 rims for the front and back. They offer them in low offset and a higher offset.
Offset is the distance from the centerline of the rim to the mounting surface. If the mounting surface was exactly at the rim centerline, then it would be zero offset. If the mounting surface is outward of of the centerline, it is positive offset. Negative offset is inward.
To quote from JohnCoffey, offset doesn't matter, offset doesn't matter, offset doesn't matter. It is overall width and backspacing you're concerned about. Offset only plays a role in how deep the "dish" is. Positive offset is less appealing to me than negative or zero in this regard, since there will be less dish.
Say that you have a 7 in rim with zero backspace. This gives you 7" width (inside to inside where the tire beads mount) + 1" for the thicknesses of tire mounting flange. The zero offset would put the backspace at 4 inches. Now, with an 8" rim +1" would give you 4.5" backspacing at zero offset. You can see that offset doesn't tell the whole picture.
If you have too much positive offset (in reality too much backspace) the inside of the rim will hit the strut tube (or the tire will hit the spring perch) when you mount the wheel. You can put the rim further out using a spacer to decrease the backspace.
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I used to be into those. It got to be too expensive and too much maintenance for me. Back in the early '90's I had a pretty high-tech setup...0-80 gallon wet/dry filter (still have it), 3-foot tall protein skimmer and an ozone generator (couldn't spring for the UV).
My favorites were the moray eels, volatin lionfish, porcupine puffer, sea bass, flame angels, bunch of different triggerfish (those are bad-ass), etc. Fun times except when they died once in awhile.
I tried to get a reef tank going, but they are even more $$$ than a vertebrate tank!
It was funny. One day I go to college and tell all my friends I got Crabs! lol!
There is a place in Oregon called classic aquariums that had chillers and the whole setup for cold marine. It would be cool to go diving and catch your own pets.
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Whats the story behind your title?
Are you talking about datsun40146 with his mac & cheese title? I don't get it either. I think "MRE Envy" would be more fitting!
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I agree that it could be more efficient with a fan shroud. But I haven't had any cooling issues yet, so I haven't really needed to address any problem. Even on 90+ degree days I can be in stop & go traffic idling away and my temp never goes above 5/8. I think the 22"x18" core Ron Davis radiator might have something to do with it.
It could be that a shrouded electric fan could actually reduce airflow through the radiator at speed if it's not running or is running full blast. It that is true, then having it totally open with a stock fan like I have isn't too bad in this regard.
If I get serious, I'll use a PWM controller like BJHines is doing. I think the trick will be finding the right size low-profile shrouded dual fan setup. I barely have four inches between the radiator and the water pump pulley and I'm sure the mounting bracket will take up space too. Plus, I don't have shroud mounts like the stock radiator, so I can't do a bracket setup like Zmanco's. Flex-a-lite sells a 21.5" x 17.5" but it may not work for me since it is a singe fan style.
Pilgrim brings up a good point about upgrading the alternator. 280ZX's only have a 60 amp alternator (unless you can get one from an '82 turbo, that one is 70 amps). The average-sized electric fan draws ~20 amps!! You can buy plug & play alternators that are either 105 or 120 amps. I pasted a link in BigPhil's thread about ebay alternators.
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eh, I dont mind
I know what it was like being a student strapped for cash. There were a couple of semesters when I could only afford to eat Top Ramen and Krusteaz pancakes! I attended as many society meetings as I could for their free pizza.
My donation expires in March. Since I use HBZ more and more each year, I was thinking 1st year $20, next year $40...
I wonder if instead of donating $40 next year, I could donate $20 for me, $20 for you. In the end, I'd still be donating $40 to HBZ, lol.
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thanks well am gonna be going to the west coast nationals, but what am comfused about is what day are they really there??friday, saturday, or on sunday???
Sunday at the show is when the vendors show up. It is in Oak Canyon park. There are events Friday, Saturday at various other places.
I don't think they bring loads and loads of these things. I believe I bought their only set one year and a friend of mine bought their only set the previous year (at least the turbo ones).
It would be great if you could somehow contact them and make sure they bring the ones you're looking for. Datsun Freeway website scroll halfway down the page and you'll see they attended. Bunch of cools pics of the show too.
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Damn. I guess you're stuck with Baaa....aaa....aaa for now
[Edit: I just realized it is a nickel a day for $20 donation. I'm getting a bargain!]
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$5 buys you a gallon and a half of gas these days. How can you afford to drive?
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jdizzy, those Sakuras on the S130 in your sig look HOT!!
Damn! I really want some CCW's or Sakuras but they are $$$
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Logged in this morning and saw my new title! Thanks Braap and Ron.
I feel like Steve Martin the the Jerk Movie:
I'm in PRINT!! I'm in PRINT!!!
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:rockon:Zmanco Rocks!!
See, this wasn't a "worthless thread" IMHO.
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Since it's a turbo, switching to electrics will gain you the space to run a charge pipe between the rad and motor should you decide to run an intercooler. Just some more food for thought...
m1ghtymaxXx, I agree an electric fan will make it much easier, but it is totally possible to do with the stock fan still in place (old pic for contrast):
Granted I'm using 2.25" tube, but it seems to me like squeezing in a 3-incher wouldn't be that much wider at all. 2.25" has just a little over half the cross-sectional area as a 3" would, so that's half the volume to pressurize (at the expense of increased drag though). ...Now i'm really getting off topic!
I think you can get different fan clutches and blades. This one may sit more forward than others to clear the additional power steering and A/C belts.
Electric fans are great, especially if you can get a variable speed controlled one. I noticed that when you mount them with fasteners through the radiator fins (I think most of us have done it this way) instead of a bracket, each time the fan cycles on/off you're going to get a pretty good torque. This stretches out the holes more and more over time, but I think a variable speed might eliminate some of that.
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I can't remember for sure but $30-45 each wouldn't surprise me.
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Nice! '81 was a great year for Z's and ZX's since we could finally get a factory Turbo!
Are you going to keep it A/T or go for a 5-speed? Looks great Man.
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We have COMMUNICATION!!
I borrowed a different laptop from the graphics lab at work and sure enough, COM1 worked and so did COM4 with the adapter.
My engine temp, and air temp both seem to be registering...just a bit high at 20 and 22 Celsius respectively (68 & 72 F) when it is really in the 50's. The TPS % does move when I go through the range, but 0-20% is all I get even after a little tweaking. So far, so good I guess.
Also, I got the fuel rail to completely stop leaking too!
But when I went to put the EV1 connector(s) on, it wedged in between the rail and the injector causing the o-ring to lose it's seal. All I have to do is notch out the rail a little, install new o-rings and I think I'm good for fuel.Man 'o Man...I'm so relieved and happy now. I was beginning to think that I wouldn't make it this far. Who knows, maybe I'll have it running again soon and the tuning fun can begin!
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are you talking about the west coast nationals??
Yes Sir. I found that Datsun Freeway has a website, but it is still under construction. They have been at the MSA W.C.N. for the last 4-5 years. They had a vendor booth last year. Previous years you could catch them lugging around their mechandise on a airport luggage roller-rack thing.
Save your duckets. I'm sure they'll be back again this year!
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http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/31?osCsid=1a8c066c167c56fdbae298603eee4753
I bought two of the 105 amps (one for my 260 and one for my ZXT). I used to replace my Optima battery once a year. I've never had one fail yet with one of these babies.
They already have the correct bushing for the adjuster and the correct pulley.
Knowing you BigPhil, you would want the 120 amp model.
I know it is a little spendy, but it is totally plug-n-play!
HTH, -hughdogz
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Since you posted in the S130 forum, I assume you're looking for 2nd gen "period correct" FairladyZ emblems.
I know they sell them since I bought a set about four years ago from a vendor at the MSA show. I believe they were from the "Datsun Freeway" company. IIRC, they visit from Japan just for the show.
I only have the ones for the front fenders "FairladyZ Turbo"...I don't think they had them for the rear deck.
You can almost make it out here:
HTH, -Hugh
[Edit: the S130 n/a would use "Fairlady 280Z"
Here is a real Fairlady 280Z for the location:
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Well I finally got the Wolf to power on!!
I still have some minor leaking issues on the fuel rail to deal with (not around the injectors, but the fittings). It still just barely leaks at the threads of a 3/8" NPT fitting. Maybe it is just residue...I'll check again tomorrow. So far I've spent two days trying to get the rail to stop leaking. I've even gone as far as trimming the ends so I don't run out of threads on the fitting. I might have to try a new fitting since I threaded the fitting in so far that it started cutting a new thread.
Before I trimmed the ends the sucker was dribbling like it had an STD. The reason why is that it was originally set up for brass barbed fittings and not NPT => AN.Also, for some reason the Com1 port on my laptop from work isn't functioning. I have a USB->Com port adapter but it doesn't work either. I'll have to go to Fry's tomorrow and see if I can get a hold of one that will. Until I can figure out the communication issue, I can't sequence the trigger / spark yet or see if sensors are functioning properly.
If I have to, I'll get a new 14mm o-ring rail and bigger injectors. I have my eyes on some from racetronix . I would like to get some like these 65lb/hr (MSD / Holley) - Low-Z FM or even bigger. But before I do that I need to figure out how big I can go without running into too rich of an AFR at idle. I read that after I buy them, I can have them sent to Motor Man to get import pintle caps installed so they'll fit my N42 intake. I'll probably just give Motor Man a call to see how his prices for reconditioned units compare to the racetronix new ones.
Sorry for my rambling...after breathing gas fumes all day and running into more roadblocks that I made for myself, I needed somewhere to vent!!
I hope I don't still smell like gas when I go to work tommorrow.
Laterz, -Hugh
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Before I trimmed the ends the sucker was dribbling like it had an STD. The reason why is that it was originally set up for brass barbed fittings and not NPT => AN.
FYI on http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net
in Non Tech Board
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Maybe I'm confusing everyone here. CheapTurbos = Ken = PHX turbos. Same company / owner.
JSM, I didn't take it that you were knocking him. In fact you confirmed that he sells genuine products.
Aux, I think the guy from Tial would know for sure if CheapTurbos was not an authentic Tial reseller. (at first I though you were saying that I emailed him with my posting reply!
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It's all good. I really like the CheapTurbo prices, quality and Knowledge of their products.