hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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I remember that one! Wasn't there a vid that showed the engine was still running? I'm 72.4% sure it's the real deal.
I wish there was a way to snopes.com a photo...
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I think it would look cool as hell. I remember seeing a photo of an S30 with T-tops from an S130. IIRC, the coupe T-tops will fit better than the longer 2+2 T-tops. The coupe T-tops are almost exactly the same length as the top of the S30 window frame, almost like Nissan meant for this modification to be possible!
My only concern would be that you should add reinforcement to account for less torsional rigidity, etc. of the unibody. [edit: naviathan beat me to it!]
[second edit: Okay, after reading the older thead on this, even if properly done, it will compromise the structural integrity of the unibody too much. It's not worth it IMHO. Sorry to be such a floppy-fish about it...]
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Whoo hoo! Second page...I was wondering when I would get here..
Just to let you know what I've been up to...the car drives smooth now around town and on the freeway, despite the fact that I've only corrected a small portion of the map. I used no boost controller except the stock wastegate since I knew it would stop at ~6.9 psi. I still have a long way to go to finish the map using the stock turbo.
I ended up using the tedious spreadsheet method to calculate the corrected injector opening time. Bo gave me some safe target AFR's for a few load ranges up to 15 psi boost. I have only tuned it to 4750 rpm at 7psi (8th-9th row of load cells?). This was a freeway pull in 4th gear, with cold ambient air temperature.
At zero to low load, I'm already maxing out to 1 ms minimum open time while my AFR's are still on the rich side (I hear this can be a common problem).
Also, I'm having trouble cold starting with less than 6-7 cranks. I tried increasing the starting injector opening time from 6 -> 7 ms, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference.
It is strange that the CHTS sensor still causes the CHT to climb to 101 C (sometimes). But it only stays there for a short time and cools back down once the thermostat opens. This only happens when I let it get to operating temperature idling. The coolant temp gauge is only 1/8 of the way up at this time. I don't think it has hurt anything so far...I wonder if it had this characteristic in stock form.
Now I think I'm brave enough to take it to ~5500 RPM. But first I'll try to tune the PWM boost controller aiming at 3psi to start. This approach should be pretty safe as long as I keep my foot out of it before I reach 7psi.
I'm planning to take it to the late night drags @ PIR this Saturday (weather permitting) to datalog heavier loads and higher RPM's. It's difficult to tune on the street with all the traffic and paranoia of cops...
I've been taking advantage of the rain by installing some new gages too. New boost / vac gage, and a Nordskog wideband AFR running from the LM1. The hardest part was wiring so that the LED lighting would be dim enough at night.
Otherwise, I think it is going relatively smooth. I believe I can have it tuned it in time for MSA. I don't want to break the bank buying too much fuel if I'm running rich. I need to configure the injector cutout a closed throttle above say 1700 rpm.
Thanks for reading this,
Best regards, -hughdogz
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I'm only running the stock seven PSI with the stock turbo. It is a F54 flat top with a ported P90 head and a Delta turbo cam, stock turbo EFI. Runs great.
Awesome! Looks really clean aarang, nice job!! You're right, that is a really clean way to route the vent tubes.
Did the ported head and turbo cam make a big difference in power? Do you recall the cam specs by chance?
I totally dig your S130T. I hope we can meet up someday!
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LOL! You had me going hook, line and sinker! PSYCHE! That was Awesome.
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Hi Monzter,
I apologize if this was explained already, but how are the offset runners being manufactured? I can see how the charge box can be CNC'ed, but I figured you were going to do a rapid prototypes, then get the pieces investment casted.
Cheers!
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Of course not! We ALL learned that in High School...
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Wouldn't it be easier to put a 90* elbow in there, screw the PCV valve into that and just get some extended hose and run it right into the normal spot on the block?
You can, but this may limit how much you can clock your compressor without interfering with the 90 degree fitting.
...For the block port, I used a catch can between the port and the inlet before the turbo. Same type 5/8" hose. I do have a custom pipe between the turbo and the AFM as I also have a recirc BOV, so it was easier for me than with the stock rubber inlet hose. You can get away without the catch can, and just go directly from the block breather to the hose between the AFM and the turbo, but it does get residual oil in it after a while. ...How much boost are you running? I found that there is a lot more blow-by at 12psi than say 9psi. Even if you have a catch-can, it may not seperate out all the oil. I'd rather not take any chances of losing efficiency by the compressor turbine blades getting all gummed up and fouling of the IC. Who knows, it may also damage exposed element air temperatire sensors. My stock throttle body plate was so nasty and gummed up, it had to be caused by years of blow-by recirculation.
Since you are probably running no more than 9psi, no IC and the stock IAT sensor (located in the AFM) it is working for you.
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Yeeeow! It looks like the Holset can suck in the entire T3 and spit it out without even coughing!
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I'm guessing it is a spoof.
See, I said that I'm guessing it is a spoof since I'm not 110% sure it is(although I'm 99.9% sure it is a spoof).
I thought a "blow through ignition" was B.S. but there really is such a thing...using depleted uranium nodules as Tony D pointed out in the blow through ignition thread
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"a super-native weinal sprocket..."
"...a drawn reciprocation dingle-arm"
"...$59 billion dollars"
"...electro-technicher schtatascher donna-blitzer"
I'm guessing it is a spoof.
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LOL! Thanks John, that made my day.
I have a spare Encabulator for sale in case anyone is interested...only 56 billion $ (j/k)
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If you decide to keep the idle regulator, here is a good relocation point if you've already deleted the A/C:
For the inlet, I just tied into the charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body (inlet shown plugged). Basically you just have to route the inlet / outlet before and after the throttle plate.
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I think it is best to keep the PCV valve. Reason being is that with just a filter on the crankcase vent tube, it is not really sucking the bad gasses out. The gasses may slip through a filter, but eventually the filter will get clogged with oil and then you have no crankcase ventilation.
Also, the cam cover vent will need to be hooked back up as well. Mine currently has a breather filter on now, but it really should get vacuumed out post turbine (with a check valve).
I see what you're dealing with. The stock ZXT intake has the PCV valve forward of the compressor outlet. The N42 has the PCV valve right above the compressor outlet.
You have two choices, either use that 90 degree fitting (I think that is what is in your pic) and mount the PCV horizontally to clear the compressor outlet, or you can plug the stock hole and drill and tap a new hole (I'm pretty certain it is 1/4" NPT) forward enough to clear the compressor outlet (2" should be enough).
I'm also using an oil catch-can between the crankcase vent tube and the relocated PCV valve.
Hope this helped milez...
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Ah, ok, I see what you mean now.
Here's a parts list. if you scroll down to nissan they have all the model numbers for what they replace for what car/year/etc
I saw that too, but S130's aren't in the list. It probably won't just bolt in.
I guess I'm not the only one looking at this auction. I didn't notice that deja has looked at the same LSD in his thread. I agree with him that a 2-way may be too aggresive for the street.
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Right on. Thanks for your time guys!
I'll keep looking and researching more. Quaife, Cusco, KAAZ, Precision Gear, Power Brute, etc...they must make one that would work specifically for my Z!
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAAZ-...spagenameZWDVW
Hi Guys,
It has 29 spline output. I searched and searched and I couldn't find what size shafts my CV axles have.
If I can get it for under $500 it seems like a good deal. Having a 2-way LSD should still be street-able?
Thanks for any info. -Hugh
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The U.S. still hasn't built any new refineries in the past 25 years, so even if production of crude does go up (and the price of crude drops), we will still have the refinery bottleneck and prices won't be dropping any time soon...
The price for diesel fuel went waaaay up since the reformulation to low-sulfur.
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I could be wrong, but that looks like the Kaminari (NOT Kameari) airdam, side skirts, rear valance. MSA used to sell them but they may be NLA.
Those are 006's (not 007's my mistake, 007's don't even exist!) I wonder what the + offset is on those: http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/sportmax_006.shtml
It doesn't look like they give you an offset choice...
Sportmax 006's in 17x7" fronts and 17x9" rears would look great on my ZX but the lip is smaller than I'm looking for. Plus, I really want to get away from wheel adapters (spacers).
If Rota ever makes a RB-R 17x 7.5" in the -4 offset I'll go with those in a staggered fitment along with some 8.5 inch'ers in the rear . Otherwise, I'm going to save up for some CCW's.
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Whoa! My suspicion was actually correct for once!
Your "low-tech" tool is quite ingenious Roger!
Glad you got it sorted out!
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Dang!! Awesome link.
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Didn't 240Hoke have his exhaust mani and DP wrapped? Maybe coated + wrapped is a bad idea?!
I was planning on coating and wrapping my DP and possibly my exhaust manifold...so you guys are saying this is a "no-no"?
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Philbertz,
This is posted in the wrong forum. This is for Electramotive engine management.
For a lot of the boots (injectors, TPS) you can simply use shrink tubing of the proper size. Harbor Freight has a kit with all different sizes that say they are good to 250 degrees F.
[Edit: If you're talking about the connectors themselves, you can get them off ebay or del city has those EV1 connectors cheap! If you want better ones than stock, go with the GM style ones where you don't have to pick at a clip]
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Hi MJ,
I believe the nut that holds the strut in the tube is called a "gland nut".
Have you tried using a pipe wrench to remove it yet? First give it a good spray with some liquid wrench or some other penetrant. Then lay the strut on the ground and hold it down with your foot and use a ~24" (at least) pipe wrench.
I would be really surprised if you cannot remove it using this technique. Maybe you already tried this though...
HTH, -hughdogz
[Edit: vvv John is right. Sorry...Forget what I said!
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Smilies sometimes change after posting? not always WYSIWYG?
in Site Support
Posted
Is it just me?
This seems to be happening more often lately. When I do a preview post, the correct smiley is shown, but after I submit it, the smiley changes.
E.g.:
1) The yellow face with the winking eye ";)" changes to the blue smiley with a winking eye ":wink:"
2) The Blue face eek smiley ":eek:" changes to the yellow face eek ":eek:" smiley
I think the "icon ID" mapping may not be correct. I thought it might just be my Mozilla Firefox on Linux, but it happens with my IE7 on WinXP also.
Not really a big deal, but thanks for any help!
Cheers, -Hugh