hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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Hmm...I haven't tried those.
The wall thickness seems decent enough to prevent them from collapsing under vacuum when they get hot (the first problem noticed with cheap silicone). Their ability to withstand high heat cycling (eventually getting hard and cracking) and chemical resistance may still be questionable...
[Edit: Okay, well he says that they have good chemical resistance...the price is still kind of high, no??]
Personally, I think those bright red hoses detract from the look of the engine bay. I don't notice the engine components much...all I notice are the hoses. But hey, that is just my opinion...
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sorry guys im new here im used too r31 skylines forum were everyone just talks in slang and just talks lots of crap, thank you for your replies and ill try hughdogz said thanks mate! oh and by the way the turbo is just the stock t3 that come with this engine
No worries Mate! Glad I could help.
I'm sure you'll be back to full boost in no time.
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Like the others said, type intelligibly and you'll get a better response.
That said, I think your friend is right. Unless the turbo is somehow shot it is probably the wastegate. From what I understand, there are hoses that come off the side of the compressor housing. When you build boost it pressurizes and sends the signal to the wastegate actuator. The actuators are sized so they will open the wastegate at a specific boost level to protect from over-boosting. Assuming you have an internal wastegate, there is a puck inside the housing that is basically a door that keeps the gasses flowing through the turbine wheel until the wastegate opened by the actuator to limit the boost ("wasting" the exhaust gasses instead of turning the turbine wheel).
You need a tensile load from the actuator to keep the wastegate door shut. Say that the wastegate hole has an area of 1 in^2. To be able to keep the pressure before the turbine to say 40 psi, you need up to 40 pounds of pulling force to keep the door shut since force=pressure*area. Of course it may be more or less than that from the rod depending on the lever arm of the puck...
It sounds like the wastegate isn't in the closed position to start with. If it were me, I would inspect the wastegate rod and check to see if the actuator is not keeping the puck in the closed position. You can remove the cotter pin and pull the rod just above puck pin to see if the puck can be held shut more by moving it's pin closer to the center section. You may need to either clock the bracket so it is in a better position, or else shorten the actuator rod.
Good luck and I hope I'm not wrong here...I had the same experience and this is how I solved it.
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I'd like to see how he has this set up...it looks and sounds pretty crazy!!
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Perhaps this question is more for TurboBlueStreak, but I heard that the CosmosWorks CFD in SolidWorks only handles laminar flow and not turbulent. I wonder if this is this true...
[Edit: I hope it didn't sound like I was saying that the analysis is not valid...in fact this is one of my all-time favorite threads and project. Keep posting more!!
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I know his brother Roger, so I'm sure I could get contact information at our next NW-Z meeting. I'll try to remember...
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^^ PM sent. Let me know what you think...
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what were seeing here is called a burnout, haha, but yeah that is pretty cool if you ask me
800 foot-pounds of torque at ZERO rpm?? Hell yeah!
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Have you guys seen Plasmaboy's "White Zombie" yet?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ6y9G5HRKc
I saw him this night @ PIR up against a Z06 when he blew the motor halfway down the track and still finished only ~1/2 sec behind!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKZvN0bh_FI&feature=related
I would love to get 50 miles per day if I could do 0-60 in 3 seconds...(didn't want to threadjack Cygnus' e-car post
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The Schroth DOT approved 4 point harness does the exact same thing by adding their ASM device to the inside shoulder harness. The ASM device allows that shoulder harness to stretch a bit more then the outside shoulder harness which twists the hips and keeps the torso from submarining.
Follow the harness manufacturer's installaiton instructions.
Whew! Thanks for posting that John. I was getting worried there...I have Schroth 4 point belts (with the ASM device) installed on Sparco Milano seats. I was beginning to think I'd submarine for sure.
I don't know if this is true, but I heard that the reason conventional latches aren't legal is that you need to be able to unlatch them with a single press of a button. Schroth was the only company I knew of that had this.
It wasn't hard to see that my Cusco strut tower bar would not work since it would have so much deflection and might even buckle because it isn't very thick tubing (and the way it's bolted).
So instead, I'm bolted to the nearest strut bolt using the optional bolt mount instead of a strap mount. I don't think it could shear but I haven't tested it yet.
This also minimized the length of belt which is good, but it also made it so there is not much angle drop from horizontal unfortunately, which can also cause submariningI retained the stock seatbelts, they're just tucked out of the way. So if I do get stopped I can always revert back to OEM instead of the po-po saying they'll have to tow my car!
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You mean RB20DET, there never was an SR20, or any 4 cyl., in the Z line, IIRC.
Thanks for the info. on the production runs.
D'oh Alexideways, you're totally right on (my mistake)!
I was thinking last night...wait a minute...does this mean they put a 4-cylinder in a Z?! That doesn't sound right!!
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Hugh,
I haven’t the foggiest ideer what you are talking about. Since I installed the latest Java and flash updates, my dreams are much clearer and don’t hang as often…
Wha?? You don't remember me visiting you one day and I said the same thing as Justin brought up..."Paul, I'm spending too much of my time on Hybrid...what's up with that...how do you deal with it??"
And then you make some funny remark like "HA" for Hybridz Anonymous? You know, like "AA" for Alcoholics Anonymous? It cracked me up!
Oh well...I guess I can start the group if Justin wants to join. It looks like you're fine with your "latest service pack updates" LOL!
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I remember asking BRAAP about this and he didn't know of any local HA support groups!
It's true enough for me...I'm guilty.
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Hi MJ, in general Nissan has treated the American market differently than the "rest of the world" market.
I think "Datsun" was only used here in the USDM from '58-'83. In the rest of the world, the S130 is dubbed the "280Z" not the 280ZX. In Europe, there never was a S30 280Z, it was still called the 260Z from '74 up to '78 I believe...have you also noticed that in Europe, most of the S130's are 2+2's (or 2by2) it is really wierd.
So along those lines, due to probably emissions and crash protection restrictions that the US federal government allowed for imports, the JDM had a lot more engine (and body) configurations for the Z31 than we had here in the states. I don't know why my magazine calls it the "2000ZR" instead of the 200ZR, but the ZR was available with an SR20DET engine...I thought there were other engine configurations for the Z31 besides the SR20 and VG...
The reason that in Japan they made a lot of 2 litre engines is for tax purposes. As long as the engine displacement stayed at 2L or below, either the manufacturer or the consumer didn't have to pay a high "luxury tax" like they would for a bigger displacement engine. That is why you see an L20ET engine once in awhile instead of an L28ET.
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I'm still not finished with the easy part of the install, but I've made some
progress. I want to be sure everything is hooked up correctly before I start securing all the wiring, so a lot of it is still loose or not connected yet. I also finished modifying the trigger optical wheel in the distributor and connecting it.
I haven't removed the stock FI harness, coil and igniter yet, but I installed a new fuel rail, harness and injectors:
It looks like it has a Mohawk now!
Other side:
CHTS:
Electronic Boost Controller:
Power breaker and ground block:
What a mess!! I can tuck the wiring up out of the way later...I'm not sure I'd do it this way again.
Where the Wolf connects behind the glovebox (another mess, I could have done better with a lot less connectors, LOL!:
The Wolf fits in the glovebox nicely:
Sensor and controller wiring for the driver side. I still haven't figured out how to wire up the tach and adapter yet. I'll have plenty of room to mount another computer once the stock ECU is out of the way
:I may have to rethink the way I did this...D'oh! It's always something...
I still have a long way to go.
Of course I could have done a lot better job knowing what I know now...but as long as it works and it's safe, then I'm happy.If anyone sees anything unsafe, please PM me and let me know...
Thanks for looking!
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I suppose the "soft glass" idea is not impossible, I see Jeeps all the time with thick vinyl rear side windows on their soft tops. Don't the early Miatas have a vinyl rear window (I don't think they're glass). Even then it may only last a few years in the elements without deteriorating...
As far as I can tell, the OEM glass has curvature in only one direction. So maybe you can borrow one and "mold" a plexiglass one from it if you can find a big enough oven (do you know anyone that works at a pizza joint?) I'm not sure if you can heat and bend Lexan as easily...
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Now, before any of you get started,
Okay, now you've done it! You're just begging for it, lol.
I searched and searched and could not find an answer. I have a 83 turbo engine in my 78 Datsun and looking to upgrade the turbo, among other things. Do any of you know about any bolt on upgrade, if there is such an animal. I plan to run Supra 440 injector and maybe the Megasquirt system.
Any info would be helpful.
Thanks
Hey milesz, I know where you're coming from because I'm going down the same road of upgrading.
It's taken me a well over a year of "searching" here to find "the answer" and there isn't one.
No one can really tell you what the best upgrades are for your particular situation since we all have different goals, starting points, skills, access to equipment, time and $$$.Like 510Six said, what are your goals? And also keep in mind that once you buy a component, you're kind of stuck with it. If you use 440 CC injectors, there you go...that pretty much limits as much HP as you can reliably make (maybe around 300-400 HP).
I think the absolute best way is to do it in STAGES, so that you can enjoy and appreciate each upgrade, learn as you go while not breaking the bank!
There is a post that was recently tool-shedded that has a lot of good info about where and how to start a turbo build and hopefully finish! (if there is such a thing). Since you've already searched, you should be familiar with that one!
The only "bolt-on" I know of is an HKS IC setup from MSA, but it is expensive IMO and IC core may be too small for you HP goals. So I guess the answer is NO for the most part...there are no "eazy to install" bolt-ons (especially cheap ones
). It is unfortunate, but there is almost no forced induction aftermarket support for an L28ET like there is for an SR20 or Supra or Mustang.Do you have a "bone-stock" Turbo engine? (you never mentioned what you've done so far but I remember your posts about installing one)
What I would recommend is the way I ended up doing the upgrades:
1) Manual boost controller. This way you can run 2-4 psi more boost and all you have to do is plumb in a little valve. Hallman's are good, or you can make the wastegate actuator preload adjustable by threading the rod. You also need to install a boost gage to know where you're at. This might add 20-30 HP...and in a light car, it is a really noticeable difference
2) Intercooler and bypass valve. This is where it can expensive and takes a great deal more planning. After this, you can really crank up the boost still using the stock EFI.
3) Downpipe. Get rid of the stock cast iron DP and use smooth mandrel bends. There is a thread on here to get a DP flange for the stock turbo. Any exhaust shop can do welding... makes for faster spoolup, increases max flow, etc.
4) Upgrade from the stock EFI. From what I've seen and read, this is the truth.
You can't trick the OEM computer (or adjust the fuel pressure) enough to control the bigger the injectors properly. You might be supplying enough fuel at high load, but maybe you'll supply too much at low load. Plus at a higher HP, it is more crucial that you have precise control over the fuel and spark timing. I don't think there are many Z's out there that run a bigger turbo using the stock EFI. One exception I know of is this guy:
It is incredible what he did, but but I don't think it was "bolt-on" either
5) Headwork to flow better. The stock head is pretty restrictive.
6) Bigger turbo and injectors. The stock turbo is already pretty good to maybe 250+ HP, but runs out of steam at ~12 psi.
You could also add a cam, nitrous, methanol injection, forged pistons, steel head gasket, exhaust bypass, yada, yada. But going for it all at once I think is really tricky!
Even with the stock turbo @ 12psi and an IC, it was almost scary driving my car. I can't imagine what it will be like if I get to 300 or even 400 HP.
I hope this helped (and I hope it didn't sound like I was preaching or anything, just my opinions mostly). I used to think "hey I'll just buy a bunch of expensive parts and my car will go fast, what do I buy?" but I couldn't be further from the truth. I still need to search and learn more!
lol.BTW, are you the same Miles from AZ that knows Ron and Max??
Good luck Man!
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My solution was to get some clear, flexible PVC or vinyl "pockets" made that will slip over the window frame to keep the wind out. Does this sound reasonable?
Maybe I'm misunderstanding you, but I'd go with a new (used) window for sure.
Unless you create a lot of positive pressure inside the cabin, those are going to flap and vibrate so much at speed no matter how hard you stretch it...
I've had to tape up a broken window before with visqueen(sp?) and duct tape. It would flap like mad unless I closed all the windows and cranked the fan on high. It was a brand-new car so it was sealed nice and tight and when you'd turn the control to recirculate instead of fresh, you'd the the insanely loud flapping back.
I didn't want to say it, but I think that "window-condoms" are a no-no...
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I have a "Z-file" magazine from Japan that has the history from the Fairlady on up...
I can't read Japanese, but from what I can tell:
-9/83 the Z31 entered the market with a 300ZX and 2000ZG (2l or 3l SOHC V6)
-1985 came the RB20DET and the 2 seater 2000ZR-I and 2000ZR-II with a T-bar roof
-1986->1988 was the 300ZR or 300ZX (2l or 3l DOHC V6 with a VG30DE(?))
-and somewhere in there is a VG30ET
I could be totally wrong but it looks like only 1985?!
Man! We got left out here in the States for the 3rd gen.
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...and other unpleasant anti-theft devices.
Indulge us Cygnus!!
...and please don't say you've trained attack mice!
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That is too cool Cygnus!
On my 260, I have a metal push-button "start" where the ignition lock used to be. It is hooked up to an ignition coil. If you think it is a push-button start, you'll get a real nice shock...especially if you're touching something else metal!!
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Hi Ron,
If you post up a drawing (or sketch) of the bracket and the loading conditions, I can create a solid model and run it through an ANSYS FEA solver I have here at work.
...if you're interested I can vary the thickness and give you the results respectively.
Cheers, -Hugh
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...oooooohhhh you are playing with fire there MJ!!
You must know by now these admins don't mess around. And to be honest, it really doesn't matter what *you think*
It is thier site and they will run it as they see best...And what happened to NWS or NSFW?? I should have known from title...duh:icon56:
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This also minimized the length of belt which is good, but it also made it so there is not much angle drop from horizontal unfortunately, which can also cause submarining
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Of course I could have done a lot better job knowing what I know now...but as long as it works and it's safe, then I'm happy.
No one can really tell you what the best upgrades are for your particular situation since we all have different goals, starting points, skills, access to equipment, time and $$$.
You can't trick the OEM computer (or adjust the fuel pressure) enough to control the bigger the injectors properly. You might be supplying enough fuel at high load, but maybe you'll supply too much at low load. Plus at a higher HP, it is more crucial that you have precise control over the fuel and spark timing. I don't think there are many Z's out there that run a bigger turbo using the stock EFI. One exception I know of is this guy:
Wheel Show! Post your pics of you wheels
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
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Bolt pattern on those say 4x4.25 not 4x4.5