surpip

That 3M stuff in a can? never had good luck with that stuff always flaked away and never stopped rust POR15 undercoat and xylene is the way to go

Good luck let me know how it works out but keep in mind either way it has to be installed, as it the flare that seals it to the fitting.

Hey looking for some advice on some LG1's for my 280 Z looking at mico swede an as i am 6'2'' 220 lbs thinking about getting the wide version has anyone installed these seats with the sliders that Corbeau offers? also what harness did you use?

Wow that is disgusting! Looks great, so you’re running all that through the R200? What else do you have done to it? Can’t wait to see more pics

Any luck?

Im not shure how the kit you have now mounts the tranny but you will need to get rid of the stock mounts in the tranny tunnel. I have the T-56 in mine i witch should have the same shifter location as the T5 and it fits great. I belive the JTR kit was made for the T5 in the first place, along with all that dangerboy said but you would have to get a new driveshaft to swap out the 4 speed anyways.

Haha, yupp looks like i really hate procomp.

Any condition bumper/supports welcomed, Front an rear. Thanks!

it is just a filer to keep cotaminants out of the compressor the most important part is obviously the flare to make it seal another option would be to cut the screen off and find a replasement reciver/dryer with an internal filter and change the fittings to fit any true A/C shop should be able to help you get it working not just your local "complete" car care place. Also if its not crushed to badly you can use a pick and straiten it from the inside out use silver solder to fix any tears and some carb cleaner and it will be good as new another option is to look at pick an pull sometimes you will get lucky or evan ebay many options, good luck

love the pie cut look but you would think with all the flat angles inside would create turbulance that would inpede flow?

looking good gotta love when the adds say "rust free" hu? my 280 wasent as bad just the pass floor pan and part of the rail and small patches on the drivers side if i where you, while i have it all apart and needing a new clutch anyways id get the JTR mounts and find a junkyard T5 the gears in the 4 speed will suck and you be a lot better off with the JTR mount and a T5 just my .02 but looks like you got your work cut out eather way.. have fun

Make shure the end of the ring isnt bent or sticking out too bad if so hit it with a file that happens sometimes and as for instalation do as deja said except a tap with a 3lb sledge will send her home with no problem.

oh wow, im sorry haha the internet over here sucks

I would just get an msd6al box if my memory is correct, the white wire out of the msd will go to orange on dizy red will go to a switched on and black to ground i belive the hot wire for the 240z coil is blak with a white srtripe. you can use this for the dizy and the msd box. Those procomp dizzys are garbadge anyways, my best advise would be to toss it and get a msd unit i would guess that having it hooked up wrong fried the internals anyways.

I would just get an msd6al box if my memory is correct, the white wire out of the msd will go to orange on dizy red will go to a switched on and black to ground i belive the hot wire for the 240z coil is blak with a white srtripe. you can use this for the dizy and the msd box. Those procomp dizzys are garbadge anyways, my best advise would be to toss it and get a msd unit i would guess that having it hooked up wrong fried the internals anyways.

I would just get an msd6al box if my memory is correct, the white wire out of the msd will go to orange on dizy red will go to a switched on and black to ground i belive the hot wire for the 240z coil is blak with a white srtripe. you can use this for the dizy and the msd box. Those procomp dizzys are garbadge anyways, my best advise would be to toss it and get a msd unit i would guess that having it hooked up wrong fried the internals anyways.

I would just get an msd6al box if my memory is correct, the white wire out of the msd will go to orange on dizy red will go to a switched on and black to ground i belive the hot wire for the 240z coil is blak with a white srtripe. you can use this for the dizy and the msd box. Those procomp dizzys are garbadge anyways, my best advise would be to toss it and get a msd unit i would guess that having it hooked up wrong fried the internals anyways.

I would just get an msd6al box if my memory is correct, the white wire out of the msd will go to orange on dizy red will go to a switched on and black to ground i belive the hot wire for the 240z coil is blak with a white srtripe. you can use this for the dizy and the msd box. Those procomp dizzys are garbadge anyways, my best advise would be to toss it and get a msd unit i would guess that having it hooked up wrong fried the internals anyways.

I would just get an msd6al box if my memory is correct, the white wire out of the msd will go to orange on dizy red will go to a switched on and black to ground i belive the hot wire for the 240z coil is blak with a white srtripe. you can use this for the dizy and the msd box. Those procomp dizzys are garbadge anyways, my best advise would be to toss it and get a msd unit i would guess that having it hooked up wrong fried the internals anyways.

It seems like an ok deal but I can guarantee your going to spend a hell of a lot more than 8.9k if you where to build something similar yourself and im willing to bet you can find one for cheaper than that but, its all about what you want. But with the 350 trans not sure that it will like the freeway cruzing and that gets annoying.

how is your build going? seems like you got a great deal on the car duno about that 4 speed tho i bet the gear ratios are horrible. I have my 383 in the JTR position with an RPM Air gap with one of those triangle edlebrock filters and it cleares fine. if you havent alredy the JTR mount is the way to go good luck with rebuilding the Qjet its more of an art form than anything.. i used to tinker with them when i was younger rebuild dosens got pritty decent at it but i have a deamon on my car duno how that worked out but oh well bouth those dizzys are pritty good but if you whant to go cheap you can find a stock HEI in a junkyard for cheap replace the cap an rotor make shure evrything works an that would work well also. good luck!

No I'm saying cut off the end of the heim joint and find a pice of sleeve the same ID and cut to stock length same as the stock LCA, weld that to the end of the thread and use the poly bushings in that with the stock pin. if you use the T3 LCA you can still adjust it without haveing to unbolt it. i know it sounds like alot of effort but i would trust that more than the heim joint.

Yeah opps went back through my credit card statements and it was $2100 I spent at TTT sorry, so total was about 3500 so I confused my numbers I was going to go for the LCA form TTT but I was just trying to stay away from the heim joints because of my daily driver and I just don’t trust them I’m thinking about making some with the same design but using a sleeve instead of a heim joint so you can install the bushing in that and still have the adjustability

I have the stock a arms and ran into clearance problems myself, TTT has great customer service and about a half hour on the phone with them and I had a new front mount headed my way ( the diff was cocked but I think it was the mustache bar was drilled wrong because I ended up just drilling new holes in the front mount but it still is working great no clearance issues after all said and done I’m sure the conversion can be done for cheaper but where i got my 5K is TTT parts (everything for rear minus the LCA's) ran3.5K 2 R230's off eBay was 750 powder coating royal purple diff oil and poly bushings for the rear was about another 500 so roughly 5k but not too bad for Pease of mind. and as to Bowtiez there is an option to not cut into that frame rail but the high mount is really the way to go and as for the weight gain well, any sprung weight back there can’t hurt at all my lowest 60 so far is a 1.9 with radials so I will eventually go to slicks as well

That new composite intake form AFR might be something to look into as well I’ve heard good things about it more HP and lighter than Aluminum one, just a suggestion.