surpip

Could also be a bad water pump take the T-stat out agin put it in a pan of water on the stove and crank it up an see if it opens good luck

i cant see the add but as long as the CH, pin dia and weight are roughly the same you will be good. You will have to get the motor re balanced tho but that isnt bad. 11:1 is almost in the range of haveing to use a higher octane gas just keep your ears open for ping.

I think when you order custom seats, as I was looking into this alredy, you can have them raise that as well the chair im sitting in now from my butt to my shoulders come in at 25 inches i see the seat is 36 inches tall so itl be close but i think all be good. Really good info thanks alot!

If you ever want to sell your RT when you’re done with it let me know! Awesome build so far giving me lots of inspiration.

Yeah seems kinda fishy but IMHO if im going to get a motor from a donor car anyways (for that prise) id at least freshen it up with new sensors pull the pan check the bearings easy stuff like that seemed like a good deal but if your looking for something plug an play i woulda passed too.

Has anyone dont the second gen skyline implant? i whanted to do this but i imagine finding a good set would be imposible these days

Looks like a pain to fit these in a zx at least the Z has the cross bars that can be cut down if needed, thanks for the post nice interior!

Being that the wide seats are only 1.5'' wider, there only has to be an extra inch on each side from what you have (accounting for carpet) appreciate the help!

When i pulled mine i whent for 2 exhaust bolts and a tranny boltin back then just looped chain around the crank pully worked fine but if you truely dont care about the head the cam tower will work.

Thinking about any port/polish work to the head while its apart?

Thought yall might like some pics of the beast.

Yeah I figured I’m not going to chance this one my 383 I put together myself but I think a monkey can throw together a SBC all let a engine shop do this one for me plus I don’t have a bore gauge or any engine tools like I said earlier I’m thinking mid to low 11's for CR as for the 3.875 I think that would be short enough to push me in the realm of being able to rev in the 7k range? So do you think the cam will be fine as is? I don’t have any specks on it but I imagine revving lower an lowering the CR would have effects on the ideal cam profile.

lol yeah I wonder if he ever figured it out? I hate when people leave and don’t update you on suggestions you gave them. But yeah that does look like the evap to the tank also should check his vacuum to the controls.

Looks awsome, I would love to come down form Killeen/Ft Hood area to see it when its done!

I am looking to trade out my 383 for a 421 SB2 set up, bought the motor for 11k here is what the add said. Professionally built 421c.i SB2 Engine Dart Aluminium block, 4.155x3.875, 14:1CR, 50mm cam ,Chevy Aluminium SB2 heads(211), titanium del west valves Jesel shaft rocker system all Crower rotating assembly, best parts engine is set up for dry sump oiling system and comes with custom aluminium dry sump oil tank and lines and filter, aluminium valve covers with oiling system , never blown and not abused and very little run time since new drop in and your ready dyno reading 869hp and 715fpt @8800 , very smooth and Very Powerful engine with over 20K invested , NO JUNK great engine my loss your gain kinda thing I'm thinking the numbers are overrated but shure am interrested in getting 700HP@7500k im thinking with the short stroke should be happy in the upper RPM range. Waiting for picks of the bottom end to varify components. Obviously i cant run 14:1 on the street all the time so i will need new pistons to lower it down around 11/11.5:1 but what kind of cam profile do they like? I have some Try-y's for it (hope they will fit) so im thinking a 4/7 swap will be in order but does anyone have expirence with these motors? Any tips to make them more streetable?

I’m assuming since you want the mechanical pump you are going with the carb set up? if you go with a stock 280 pump you will need a regulator with a bypass to keep the pump cool but you would probably be better off with a holly blue or something similar with a deadhead regulator. but as hero said i belive on the 240 Pass side there is a mounting spot an i think the wireing is there too, but it would be under the carpet, Green wire i think?

ive got a 280Z rad in good condition laying around from my JTR conversion but only thing is i whont be back until late march

Thanks for the reply yeah that cadge and seats look great in there would you mind measuring how much side to side room you have? i am in Afghanistan now so cant really hop in my car and take a look. the wide seat is 22'' opposed to 20.5 but isnt any taller being 5'10'' how much head room do you have? i apprishiate your help car looks great

If your tank is full of crud it fills up and restricts the filter almost imidiatly. I know because my 78 280 did the same thing, that's what it sounds like to me. i dropped my tank and used that coating you can get off of ebay. it worked great if i remember correctly if you have spark you should have injector pulse because they run off the same signal.

i have a 78 280Z

There are numerous solutions available form Modern Motorsports and Tecno Toy Tuning, just a matter of how much power your putting down and how much your willing to spend.

I would almost guarantee its something as simple as the filer being clogged, but as stated ^ check all connections more importantly the ones to the temp sensor's and AFM, and check fuel pressure even if you do it just buy your fingernail on the shredder valve while turning it over to make sure you have pressure. But I’d be willing to bet it’s your filter

i heard CTP in kempner does awsome work as well

Try searching for vg30dett or vg30de

I belive tail/marker/dash lights all run from the same source off the switch, dont remember the wire coulor off the top of my head but run a test lamp to various wires off the headlight swich and make shure you are getting power out of the switch. Not shure how much you work on cars but a power probe will pay for itself if you use it more than once and for anyone with older cars it is an awsome tool