surpip

Ok i see it now, looks like if you whanted to you could still make it work in a Z

Looks like your buring a little oil and to rich and need to back a degree or so timeing off but id do a pull with new plugs an see where your at.

I belive the gap is 1.0 to 1.1 mm (0.039 to 0.043) so .040 is fine

I would get a portable A/F gauge and do some street tuning. But I would first be more worried about why #6 is quite a bit richer that all the others, replace all plugs do a full throttle run down the highway for a bit pull them an see if they are all even. Before you mess with the AFM you want to make sure everything is mechanically sound with you motor first.

Hmm i guess the guy i took all my parts to was blowing smoke up my a$$? he did show me with a magnet gauge that the powder wasent much thicker than paint i guess it depends on how its applyed? I imagine you can varry the thickness just like you can do when painting.

A new 1'' is the way to go.

I forgot to add my Rube Goldberg throttle linkage (switched to cable later).

You know you have a Datsun when on a nice summer day when you have a choice of a sport bike or driving your Z you chose the latter and deal with sweating you’re a$$ off and a overheating motor.

I have the filling station at my shop, it works great I was tired of sticking bottles in my freezer you can always fill up other peoples bottles as well to recoup your costs.

Agreed, its cheap insurance.

How could they not bind as the suspention goes through travel? From the CAD pic i posted looks like an UCA would not be needed.

Might whant to look into some resonator http://www.velocityshop.com/product/vibrant-exhaust-resonator-2-5-inch-12-inch-long_548.html I think a resonator would be your best bet because finding a muffler that can do all that would be lardge and hard to fit. As for me, loud an proud kus loud pipes save lives! Thanks RBZ..dam you auto correct.

I'm thinking this is a little on the conservative side as well only 200 at the machine shop? An all the Mis stuff is going to be more than 200

Here is a diagram i found on C4 Suspention if you made a suffishient mount for it i dont think there would be a problem would be a lot of fab work tho Pic with C4 "mustashe bar" set up I'm not shure where the "slip" is in the halfshaft, but no way it acts as a UCA IMO Id be easyer to stick with the R-XXX setups

I was thinking about this as well but multiple launches on 440 HP with my 383 and no sighns of bending fatigue ect. Id say unless your pushing over 500HP (I'm shure you could do more) leaving the X-member stock is fine.

it depends on the spasing of the wheels. too much negative offset you run into problems with your flares too much positive offset you have to worry about your suspention depends on how much offset your running and what width wheels. Flares and coilovers will let you run pritty mutch the widest wheel you would what to on a Z. Offset explained at http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101

Yes NASCAR baised but used in circle track and lots of other motorsports as well, should be BA in a 3000# car eh? and shoot me a PM about the 383 thats in it now going to sell it if your interested. Picks on my build thread.

No love for the SB2 hu? I got refered to a guy that might have really good insight on SBC and SB2 cams Mike Jones Jones Cam Designs Denver, NC jonescams@bellsouth.net http://www.jonescams.com (704)489-2449 anyone heard of him?

Powdercoating is usually no thinker than paint. Any paint/powdercoat would be gone in a few miles if applyed to the grove anyways (powdercoating would last a lille longer).its easyer to just paint the grove and let the belt wear it off than masking the area off would be. And the paint that gets into the lower part of the grove where the belt dosent reach would protect that area as well.

Slider? I dont know what your talking about.

You can look at my build as i used Autometer's pro comp ultra lights installed in the dash. Inspiration came from: www.4moores.com/280z/index.html (twards the bottom on the second padge) This is a great write up on installing the guadges, i did it a little differently go get more of a stock apperance but basically the smae thing. the fuel gadge resistor will have to be added to get the gaudge right but that site covers it all enjoy! just use a T for the oil sensor and there is a plug in the manifild that i used to screw in my temp sensor.

I have PP 2ct on my CBR1000RR/R and the poor Michelin man's head is gone bless him, I am a total chicken when it comes to damp roads tho expechially in TX, lots of oil. Hows the rideing in Virgina? never been.

Beautiful i love these cars.

Could be a coolant temp sensor as well, or the ignition module starting to act up due to dryed out grease.

I just posed my project in the "build" section, id have to say ive changed at least 85% of mine do dont realize how much youve done till you accually think about it.