260DET

If you would like more negative camber then move the inner point, up and out. If not, try some 'bump steer' spacers. Either will put the roll center back somewhere near where it should be too, although that seems to be a bit of a contentious point. It does not look too bad from the pic although the angle may be a bit deceiving, some bump steer and the Z go together

How good is the Wilwood caliper as far as flex goes? That is damm important for brake modulation and ultimate performance. I've never used them but they are not very popular among the racing crowd I know, despite being well priced, AP or Brembo being preferred. The PBR job is a simple well designed caliper that performs better than the sum of its parts. Which between Wilwood and PBR is 'better'? Don't think there is a definitive answer to that question.

If its a local pickup you will need to say specifically where from in NZ. Which sort of limits who may be able to do it. Alternatively contact the seller, he may be glad to send it to you if the price is right and he has no other offers. Best of luck anyway

Its a matter of finding the right car, someone in California is looking. Its for a project, V6 turbo, a few suspension tricks................ Know anyone in Oz who sells spoilers for the ZX? There was someone on Oz Ebay selling front spoilers a while back.

Another vote for the Toyo RA-1 for the application described. Like all R tyres they will perform in the wet best with a full tread, in the dry with a near slick tread, nothing can be done about that. Try to avoid full on track use on a warm day with a full tread.

The chassis/body work on mine was done years ago, before I realised how important a stiff body was and how to get it. The only really good thing done to mine was to run RHS along and under the sill/rocker panels, tieing it into the front tension rod points. That plus the tied in half roll cage which is a beauty. Several people in this forum have done some good chassis work, Mike Kelly for one, try a search because there has been a lot of discussion.

Try a friendly sheet metal shop to get some flanged channel made up. And if they are for your GT35R powermeister how about extending them right through to the back, beware the S30 chassis flex.

That should be made a sticky or something, invaluable info. My setup is similar to John's West Coast model but even with a big torque turbo engine I have no power oversteer problems, now. The other day the car was being driven hard through a 4th gear sweeping turn. A bit too hard apparently because the tyres suddenly stopped their warning rumbling noise, chirped, and the whole car slid sideways just a touch and then continued on line as if nothing had happened A couple of comments on the rest. One, helical (Quaife type) diffs are brilliant, make the rear end so constantly controllable. Two, any front bar over ~22mm needs the stock mounts retaining setup strengthened, see my gallery for one way to do this and a recent discussion on this forum.

Unless someone is very familiar with Z cars, how are they even going to know that the work has been done? Unless its obvious of course, unoriginal looking, not painted like the rest....................

Thanks all, will give them a go.

C'mon John C, tell us what setup characteristics you found fastest with the ROD. Not the nuts and bolts, the handling characteristics you found fastest. That info is surely declassified by now

Never seen a 2+2 with flares nor pics of one, your'e a pioneer mate On the two seater you don't have to cut the guards to fit them although on mine the front guards were cut to fit the wheels I use. The guards have to be drilled of course to attach them.

In my limited experience the Z does tend to understeer but if it turns in push may not be such a problem. One of the good things about a Z is you can get great drive out of corners, that may be associated with understeer in some situations. I was out at the track today trying a 24mm front sway bar, up from 23mm. The car did tend to understeer, particularly in slower corners, but it was bloody quick out and down the straights

What are your wheel alignment settings and what tyres do you use? Anyway, for radial R tyres, on the front try ~3.5 neg camber, 2-3mm toe out.

The DBA site lists rotor weights http://www.dba.com.au/default.asp

Seems like you know more about them than most of us would Those big power VQ's, what durability mods do they require. I've heard that the stock cylinder liners are a problem have have to be replaced with a 'one piece per side' arrangement. As for demand, I guess if there is a demand for that sort of engine and the product is good and competitively priced.......... Maybe the V8 forums here would be the place to ask that question.

That should work Alf, my priority is to strengthen the chassis between the front and rear suspension points, there is no one way to do that of course. Strut bars would be included, as part of the half cage at the back and a U brace back to the firewall at the front. If you don't get much response here you may like to try z31 com here http://www.z31.com/ Have been some recent on topic discussions there with pics.

Organising the purchase of a 280ZX two seat coupe to be shipped from California to Australia and need a spoiler each end for it. Motorsport have a pair of suitable ones, 50-1426 and 50-1574, but they seem to have a unreliable reputation. So I'm wondering if there is some other place between southern LA and San Deigo that sells the same items, I'd like to get them put inside the car because they are so bulky and expensive to send separately. Here is a link to the front one, 50-1426 http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-1426&Category_Code=7FAD

I like the Modern Motorsport setup as a value for money high performance option. From my experience it would only be in extreme competition circumstances that anything bigger and better would be worth while for the S30, certainly for road use the MM setup would be more than ever is likely to be needed. Now, where is my kickback

This is of interest to me too, the next project will be a 280ZX coupe which is very similar structurally to the Z31. Other than repairing/strengthening any damaged existing structural parts, I'm thinking of adding an additional underbody rail from front to back under each sill/rocker panel. Extending as far foward as practical by angling in towards the front X member. Together with this there would be a half roll cage, a good thing to have with a hatchback body design. By way of additional parts, the idea is to tie all the extras in with the existing structural components and suspension points. Eg, two of the half cage floor mounting points would tie in with the proposed sill rails. I love this sort of stuff, what ideas do you have Alf?

Would doubt it, because with the 280ZX on the tension rods were run forward, not back. Could be something off a 240K or 300C if you have access to those.

If it is a two seater you had better look after it, are you RHD there? In Australia there are heaps of cheap 2+2's which are the same as the two seater from the windscreen forward. Maybe you could buy one of them as a parts car.

Nothing to do with what oil is in the gearbox? I suspect that Nissan syncros are a bit particular in the oil department, you can beat them if you shift too fast and/or the engine revs are not well matched when shifting at high RPM. Just starting to look at this, drained the full synthetic Castrol Syntrax out and have replaced it with non synth Shell 80W gearbox oil. See if that makes a difference. I know that the Skyline boys swear by Redline Shockproof in their boxes.

I'm a real fan of the single cam VG, as you say MTC, so light and compact. In the end the choice will probably boil down to economics and whats available in what condition. So a VG33 is a possibility except I'm not sure if it could be economically boosted without VG30ET manifolds. Getting turbo manifolds etc fabricated for a V6 would not be cheap.