260DET

Some use a R180 LSD. I'm fairly sure that the later Nissan R180's had slightly larger OD clip in axles than the earlier S30 ones. What Subaru use??????

Beautiful job, a real credit to you

This is of no help at all, sorry, but that engine setup is crying out for a good aftermarket programmable ECU

Do you work for Noltec, nitrO?

K-mac have a terrible reputation, I would not touch their stuff

Good message there, so you reinforced the body from the front strut bar pickup points back, how far? To the rear anti roll bar channel?

After fixing that LS1 of yours, get your priorities right there

Those rear lower control arms look good, I assume that two rod ends provide location and adjustment at the outer end? If so it should work well, similar to my design of a couple of years ago still on avatar car and doing the job

For this turbo setup here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103601 Other than fitting them, which seems doable if difficult, is the spray pattern and any other relevant characteristics suitable? Can get them at a good price, apparently the real flow rate is more like 500cc rather than the claimed rated of 550cc so that part suits my application.

Why the disco spud? Several reasons - I know SFA about turbos, the price was right, it produces a wide spread of torque, conflicting advice re alternatives, don't want more than 300rwhp so as to preserve the transmission......... No comparison between it and the former hi-flow TO3 Pic of donk here.

Yeh TC, you are going about it the right way. I'd stick, and have stuck, with a stock 22mmm front sway bar and a custom 18mm rear. A lot of people go too heavy on their bars IMHO. Shocks particulary affect transitional handling, which coincidentially is when you are likely to lose the arse end when pushing a powerful Z

For anyone interested, the latest dyno tune produced 272rwhp @6250 rpm before the injectors maxed out. Boost is presently 1.2bar, looking at ~1.5bar when bigger injectors are fitted. What seemed unusual was that it appeared that the engine would make power up to ~7500rpm, not that it will be run that high The usual turbo mods, IC, 3" exhaust. ECU is a MoTec M4, custom valve timing, ported head, stock S12 inlet and exhaust manifolds, 65mm throttle body. Engine internals are stock, except for forged Wiseco pistons and larger bigend bolts. Avatar car is a combined road/track car, not a dyno queen, lots of midrange punch to get out of the corners in a hurry

Mmmmm, like those boxed guards

Yeh, Ken at Accurate is the man

You may find that some shock inserts are too big in diameter to fit in to the early strut tubes. Have you decided on what inserts you are going to use? Also, what anti sway bars are you proposing to use? Shocks, springs, bars are all interdependant. Shocks are particularly important, minimum for your use would be revalved Koni Yellow. There is a shop in Brisbane that knows all about Z suspension, he can revalve Konis correctly for your use.

According to Ray Hutton's book The Z-series Datsuns, the Z31 rear end pivot points were inclined inwards to promote negative camber through most of the suspension travel. The semi-trailing arms were inclined at 18 degrees to the wheel axis, instead of the 23 degrees of the 280ZX. Apparently the rear end was borrowed for the Z31 from the then current Silvia.

The brakes are in a low air pressure area, to be effective air has to be ducted in from a high pressure area, eg the front of the car. So rather than instal a scoop that is not going to do much at all, you are better off removing things like backing plates so as to better expose the bits that get hot.

Sorry, its a nowhere idea. Better off getting rid of the front plate entirely, drill holes in the back one.

Mine is a '77 260Z, which I guess in the US would have the same body etc as a 280Z, originally fitted with a R180. Just bolted the R200 conversion bits straight up, never had a problem with 220rwhp, the completely original tailshaft is still in use today. Except that with the stock front mount the diff wanted to jump around a bit when giving it a bit of stick

For the fronts? Its not rocket science, you get suitable coilover sized threaded tube welded over the strut tube. Plus the nuts that go over the thread and your choice of springs from, say, the Kings range. All available from any competition specialist suspension shop.