260DET

Its a bit strange if your tyres are wearing evenly yet you are getting significant understeer, usually the outer edge of the tyre will suffer if its a camber or caster problem. Anyway, radial R tyres need a fair bit of camber to work properly, 3.5 degrees front 1.5 rear works for me, see clicky pic.

Whats the experience with big springs on the HS130? Together with a full suspension renew/upgrade including two way adjustable shocks? Being a big spring, moderate anti sway bar advocate, plus the HS130 looks to have a much stiffer body than the S30, I'm thinking ~400 fronts. To drive on the road and do some circuit roundy stuff, mainly the latter. Any ideas as to a baseline for the fronts? The S30 avatar car has 250's and is fine on the road.

As others have indicated, the S30's suspension is basically sound, it just needs some careful modding. Look also at improving body stiffness, the more the body flexes the less the suspension is able to work as intended, a very important and much neglected consideration. As an example of possible suspension improvement, look at using S130 or even Z31 front struts. Various strut settings and angles were changed in both models eg scrub radius. If I was going to do more suspension mods to my S30 thats one area that would be looked at.

On mine the sphere only has a few small holes in it, you can't properly see the internals at all. Guess that makes it stronger, providing it lubes OK

What Jon said ^ For the rear, made a pair of adjustable wishbones for mine so camber and toe can be adjusted independantly. Alternatively, for camber purposes you could get the struts bent.

Increasing the front track 16mm in total won't cause any handling problems, what with the eccentric LCA camber adjusters mine has a lot more than that Not a bad idea to get the rear track out a bit though, if possible.

Neat idea, with the threaded rods I guess that small adjustments as to position would be easy.

That should do the job, Tony, nice work. What hubs did you end up with on the front?

Can't answer your query directly, but on a short nose R180 diff I had the clip in stub axles were slightly larger in diameter than those of an earlier long nose R180. The short nose stubs fitted a Subaru R180 LSD.

There is another way, use the stock suspension to get it approved. Then................ With me?

Hate that site, all that choice stuff but not for me

Aircraft hardware is the go, lightweight nuts and bolts, looks good too.

Consider no power steering so you may need all the diameter you can get, particularly with big tyres and a worked front end. Standard diameter suits me, personal preference. Like the style of that Grant wheel

Like the front spoiler.........

In the garage eh, and your address is ????? PS oh so nice wheels.

The diff place which installed the ATB and new bearings throughout suggested a 140 in our hotter climate. But after its done a bit more work it will probably be changed to a full synthetic 90 of some sort, particularly as a synthetic is more stable at higher temps. My Z does five lap sprints so gross overheating should not be a problem.

Its a while since I looked at injector sizes Dennis but basically you want a set that will flow the max power you are looking for at no more than 80% duty cycle. Do a Google, there are a couple of good injector sites around that have lots of info on specifics.

Someone here mentioned a bar joining the two tension rod chassis points a while ago, said it helped braking stability. So I did one for mine, car is nice and stable under high speed braking even over undulations. A good half cage certainly helps the rear end. Triangular bars which fit on to the door hinge bolts one end and then go forward, to the strut tops I think, seem popular. Anyone tried them?

Keeps you away from those street conrer durgs

The most important aspect is the choice of dyno tuner and what ECU he specialises in. You may have some choice in this, you may not, I don't know. Mine has a MoTec but I believe they are expensive in the US, it is an exquisite piece of equipment though, #1.

The S130 is one very neglected Z, for some reason. IMHO it has some advantages over the S30, particularly the coupe

Must agree with that, an ATB (Quaife type) diff is a revelation in power down through and out of corners. Not that the stock clutch type LSD is bad, its not, one of the Zed's strong points. On stock universal type half shafts, they do break even with a moderate power increase, mine tended to have the caps come loose, ended up welding them into the yoke. I bet yours, John, on the ROD were well maintained and inspected, the 280ZX CV type is more fit and forget. My 280ZX ones are part of a 300RWHP drivetrain, would not rely on the stock universal ones for that.

Edited my last post to make it clear that the 280ZX half shafts being talked about were the CV type.

When converting mine to 280ZX CV type rear half shafts, it seemed from a visual comparison that they would be considerable stronger than the stock cross type universal joints. Thats one of the reasons why the conversion was done IMHO Spicer brand universal joints are not as good as the OE Jap ones. EDIT first line