260DET

Don't some of the high end car makers like BMW already use a spray in foam? There are set procedures when repairing the bodies of such cars which cope with the presence of the foam IIRC.

Thanks Tyson, para 1 has been edited to clarify its meaning. Had a look at that site, interesting, not the detail I'm after unfortunately

What I've learnt(?) so far is that the stronger VG30DETT crank and rods will fit while the basic single cam engine itself was improved in several ways from April '87. The oil pump of the VG30ET has 25% more capacity. Good cams are available and the heads can be ported but thats about all I've heard about the top end. I'm looking at using a turbocharged VG30 in a project, mainly because its a simple engine, is light and compact. Around 400 rwhp would be the aim. Anyone have any idea as to what head mods would be required? Rockers? Lifters? Plenum? Am also looking at the VQ engine but for 400rwhp don't believe twin cams and four valves are necessary. The bulkier heads would also be a space problem. I've found plenty of passing references to hot single cam VG's but nothing much in detail. EDIT para 1

Yeh, the outer boots on mine go very close to the custom (home made ) sway bar ends. It looks like they will clear in use OK, if not, the bar can be redone.

Have a look at the Holden hubs, I've been told that they go on, not sure whether the bearings have to be changed or not.

Thanks, looking forward to seeing pics of your job, it should be a bit more durable than mine. But mine will only have to handle ~280 rwhp

Went for a run around the block a few times, seems to be smooth as. See how she goes at the sprints next Saturday

It does, but I'd prefer to return warm fuel straight back to the tank if the pickup could cope.

All finished, this is what went in, double end modified 280ZX half shafts with modified internal springs at each end to keep the axle firmly centered. You can see the modified spring retaining plate at the end nearest the camera, the other end didn't have such a plate, it bolted straight up to the diff stub axle flange. This is it all installed. Axle end float is ~25mm which is plenty, no axle shortening required. Hope it all drives OK

When you are going for such a close fit it really is best to measure your own clearances. Check what backspace can be be run and go from there, its not hard to do and you can then be sure what will fit your car. Its risky to advise someone on this subject unless you have recent exact experience. Because variations from car to car can occur. For example, a friend of mine has a 260Z the same year as mine yet what wheels could fit our cars were different. Then he told me that his struts had been bent to gain some negative camber. Which of course changed measurements relevant to wheel fit That same 260Z has just been fitted with the recently released eight spoke Wantanabe look alike Performance wheels in 8x15. The guards were rolled and he has coilovers, tight but neat fit on the front, a bit more room at the rear.

Go for a twin plate clutch, a bit of expense now saves a lot of effing around later, nice to drive in traffic, effective on the track. R200 clutch type diff (KAAZ?) or ATB (Quaife?) type should be ok, unless you are going to side slip it. The stock CV half shafts should be OK, unless, see above.

Going to post this idea for a while. If you have access to an oxy torch setup and a stick welder its not hard to make your own anti sway bars. Round spring steel is available from spring makers but I got some from a maker of truck tailgate return springs, offcuts, cheap as. Bend to shape with the oxy torch, weld on you custom made end brackets using an appropriate rod. In Oz thats Weldall, a stainless steel rod, beautiful. This particular rear bar did a round trip of 2600 km on bumpy roads with stiff suspension, no problem. No heat treatment or otherwise except as described, beauty

Thanks Strotter, it sounds like to some degree that the G forces would allow the pickup feet to follow the fuel. Anyway, whatever, thanks very much for the info.

There you are then if the loss of 34% of the mass will not be a problem brake temperature wise, give it a go and let us know.

Hmmm, what sort of 'racing' do you do with stock 14" wheels?

The Holley setup looks interesting but they don't explain how its installed, particularly how the pickup feet are fixed to the tank floor, or otherwise installed. A sort of shallow sump system looks to be most suitable, using an external pickup pipe from it will enable the Holley red to get a much better fuel flow path, which they seem to need.

You may want to check the legality of a non glass windsdreen, scratch easy which can make night driving vision hazardous. A general plastics fabricator made my rear plastic 'glass', used the stock glass to form the new one over. There are marine windscreen makers who do this sort of work too.

Keep it coming Ben, its sure to be of interest.

You could remove any of the grease from the CV joint that has dirt in it, clean the bits that fell on the ground, add more grease and then reassemble. In principle different greases should not be mixed but in practice with what you've got............... Go to the trouble to get proper CV joint grease though.

Having problems in extreme situations with fuel pickup for the fuel injection system. Use a Holley Red pickup pump to a surge pot to the Bosch fuel injection pump, which all works perfectly except after some high G cornering. Keep the main tank level a half or more and no problem, under that and the problem can arise. Its all been dyno tuned, no problem at all at full power, only in the situation described above. I notice that some use a small sump in the tank but I'm concerned about it getting hit, being so low. More baffles in the stock tank may work but would be difficult to get done. So what simple arrangement have others used to improve pickup? If the topic has been well discussed before then kindly send me to it, a search did not come up with much of use

Great pics John Similar attitude here ........ http://www.osella.com.au/wayne/2005-sprints-28-5-05/pages/Ose_7963.htm http://www.osella.com.au/wayne/2005-sprints-28-5-05/pages/Ose_7920.htm Keen eyes will have noted the tyre distortion, should go up a few pounds it looks like.

Here is a K case R180, this particular one is a 3.9 ratio and came from a Skyline of some sort. Its four pinion center has been replaced with a ATB center, the stub axles are ex Datsun 720 4x4 used to suit the center and the modified 280ZX CV half shafts. Its all about to go into the part time racing S30

Why do you think that would be in your case? Given that you don't have a rear bar to add to the weight transfer load there.

With circuit racing its often the outside front tyre which wears the most on a S30 from what I've seen, mine is presently wearing the outside rear the most, followed by the outside front and then the two insides about the same. Seeing that I did my best lap time ever just the other day by quite a margin with a 18mm rear bar I'm happy