260DET

I would have no problem with using the trailer hubs and I bet my car pulls more G's than yours ever will

I know of someone who adapted the DBA Subaru two piece rotor package to the front, used Z32 capilers which had 'dog bone' brackets made to fit. He likes it, works well.

Fitting VT rotors to the hubs outer face would require machining of the rotors, just what is involved I would not know. Check the DBA site for VT rotor specs, see if its feasible. Alternatively DBA now make a small range of two piece rotors, maybe one of them could be adapted. One thing I do know is that for big front brakes there is no easy solution when adapting other parts to fit.

Hate to say this but the hub may be loose on the crankshaft ie the fit of the pulley on the crankshaft may not be tight enough. Loctite both may help in the short term.

Some vague recollection of someone using Commodore VT rotors bolted on the hub front, might be worth a look, ~300mm x 28 IIRC

Ah, so they do fit eh. What bearings? Ford or Holden hubs? IMHO the wheel studs look more than adequate, providing they are long enough.

Looks like the VQ is a light engine too, according to one source the VQ35DE is 16kg lighter than the VG33E which itself is no heavyweight.

Thanks again mtc, whats your opinion of the single cam VG30, compared with the twin cam VG's and the VQ? Modified to get 400rwhp. I like their relative simplicity and minimumilist approach, plus I suspect they are a bit lighter than their twin cam brothers, particularly up top.

Neat, bit more expensive than pins though

Thanks, that does help. So roller rockers are not required? What max RPM do you reckon with the forged rods? Going to use a sequential injection MoTec ECU, they are a lot cheaper here than in the US I believe

Got a limited slip diff? If not with that power you need one, as you probably don't need me to tell you Make sure that the fuel tank is full, sticky tyres will help too. With that power its not unusual to get significant dyno roller slip, the back of the car may need to be tied down as well. Nice problem to have though, if the clutch is not at fault.

Mine has been good in use, no diagonals that interfere with rear view, helps stop stuff in the back sliding forward, unobtrusive and its stiffening effect definately made a difference to the way the car drives. The extra mounting point at the rear juncture of the transmission tunnel provides additional support for the hoop at the crucial top bends. Excuse my raving, its just that it is about the first thing on the car that has turned out better than hoped for

As Jon said, plus it can be done on an electronic wheel alignment machine as we checked it. To do it properly you would want to be able to fix the suspension height at various points throughout the normal range of suspension movement. Then you just read the toe setting off the aligner's screen at each point. We just bounced the car up and down to get a rough idea. Forgot to mention that no extra noise or harshness from the front suspension was noticed with the spherical bearings, fitted in place of the stock rubber items. Another pleasant surprise

We checked the bump steer on avatar car while getting a wheel alignment done today, on bump the toe change is towards toe in from a static 3mm toe out. On the plus side this should tend to improve braking stability but won't help turn in where turn in coincides with some braking. Correct? May try to minimumise turn in braking if that is the case. Anyway, we'll see how it goes at the track on Saturday, with the new front spherical (monoball) inner bearings replacing the stock items and the steering arm mods aimed at gaining some Ackermann in turns. Driving back after the alignment at ~100kph the car felt quite stable with the 3mm toe out, a little tendancy to wander but quite acceptable. This was a pleasant surprise, all going well at the track it will stay at that toe setting

If its not the fuel pressure regulator than there are big difficult to isolate problems, not that I am a EFI expert

Of course if you are going to change the track and still retain stock components there will be changes to steering feel, reaction, etc. Depends entirely on what you want from the car, what it is going to be used for. Personally I like a bit more scrub radius, gives better feel which can be good when ultimate handling is the goal. Plus a wider track gives better roll stability. But you don't get something for nothing in that regard. As for changing track or whatever, manufacturers do it, just look at the factory ZG changes done to improve ultimate handling. The important thing is, know what you are doing and what changes you may expect. Having said all that, by increasing the track I have never experienced any significant problems on the road. Steering effort at low speeds increases though, that is for sure. Consider also wheel alignment, its all tied in together.

OK, the high performance versions of the Aussie Ford Falcon certainly do have twin plate clutches and from all reports are fine to drive. Can't be so specific with other makes, but some do, perhaps certain Ferraris and Porsches? The roughness of some twin plate clutches seems to be associated with racing type clutch plates, not the usual road type sprung centre fully lined ones.

Hmmm, there is a limit to what can be done with the stock configuration single plate job due to the clamping pressure required. The clutch gets just too heavy, with attendant short life of the actuating components. I was under the impression that a twin plate clutch was fine for road use and required less clamping pressure. In fact I think there are a few high performance cars fitted with them by the factory aren't there? I'll ask around and admit my sins if wrong .

Be interesting to see one in place, sounds good but I can't quite work out what goes where. Here is a link to the gallery referred to http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7978

Yes, it would want to be tested in a controlled environment before use. Rotate it all shielded and mounted on a flywheel and see if it can take the revs

Sounds good to me Most twin plate clutches require their own special flywheel though don't they? The question in my mind is - can a twin plate as you describe be secured sufficiently to the stock flywheel?

Needs a replacement shell doesn't it? Those rear quarters are a bitch to fix, have to be cut and shut IIRC, in which case given the other damage it needs a shell, plus.......... What a bastard of a thing to happen

Coming along nicely there ezzzzz, can see what you mean about the boots giving more anti roll bar end clearance. Mine is close but it does clear, no sign of contact with the boots.

<<< But JohnC may be able to knock one up for you? I'll send him my address for the licencing fee payment

Mounting them on rubber insulators helps too, in fact don't they sell some sort of quiet kit which includes such insulators?