260DET

Bloody hell, did you make that all yourself? Very schmick, Mr Fussy says he wants one too. 8)

The Aussie spec S15 turbo has a Quaife type LSD as standard. By all accounts they are excellent, the diff of choice.

There is also the Aussie Locker which seems to be something similar, a cam locking arrangement. But I'm saving up for a Quaife.

Any front conversion using the stock solid rotors is a waste of money IMHO. You need a larger, ventilated rotor to make a real difference. Better off making sure that the present setup is in good condition and saving up for a proper upgrade.

Thanks Pop, fresh search turned up heaps. Lets say for my application not suitable.

Couldn't find anything on search so has anyone used one of these lsd centers? Particularly in racing or other high speed going around corners thing? They are a bit vague about how it works, one thing bothered me was a mention of something tilting and locking the diff 100%. Might be a problem if that happened in a high speed corner........... Anyway, what is the go with this device http://www.phantomgrip.com/index.htm

The factory procedure as outlined by Johnc involves preload doesn't it? How else is the specified drag arrived at if not through preloading the bearings then?

Steve's explanation seems to make sense, except for the bit about the spacer being compressed. It looks too solid to be compressed by the forces involved IMHO, also, being reuseable it is not a crush type spacer anyway. The proper, ie Nissan spec, ball bearings would be designed to take some preload I think.

Similar suspension to a 510/1600 IIRC where squat is accompanied by increasing negative camber, not good. There are some worthwhile mods which can be done to greatly improve the situation but out of my area of experience. Try a 510 forum? Sounds like a good project.

That looks like it would be very effective 74, you have done a lot with the minimum amount of tubing. I like it, and you have a customer already. NB all: if you found the links not working go back now a couple of posts to the new single link there.

Yes Jon it does make a difference. My car is not stock in a number of ways, including weight distribution, so that qualification applies. But on the track with 275 lb springs all round, 22mm front anti sway bar, 20mm rear, 220 rwhp power down out of corners is significantly better. Just a touch of power oversteer to balance a touch of mid corner understeer, and the power can be applied much earlier. A few other things but that is the most noticeable, feels great, love it.

Neil, so you are coming up with a CV axle conversion kit? Could be interested.

Fairly straight forward. You may need to get some parts pressed off, one of the needle roller inner sleeves was very tight on mine. Helps if you lay everything out in order of dissembly and watch out for syncro springs popping out and getting lost. When assembling make sure that all internal threaded fasteners are very tight, consider Loctite. Have fun.

A certain person round here named any cage bar you could hit your head on a trauma bar. Apt description. Link fixed now? http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=64&pos=2

Hmm, is working for me, but try this-

The link below will take you to a series of pics concerning the half cage I designed, made and installed. There have been quite a few discussions here in the past about roll cages which have helped, note the avoidance of any trauma bars. Basically it all came about because the creaking in the back indicated significant body flex in that area. That plus it felt flexy on the track which I suspected wasn't helping the handling. Weather permitting it is due for a track run on Saturday so we'll see. http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&album=favpics&cat=0&pos=0

What a bunch of ricers. Err, how did you do that again?

So what exactly are you making, Douglas? I've been looking at making a front air dam with the part under the grille open to form an air intake plus a decent lip on the front edge for downforce.

Trying to design a strut suspension system into a tube chassis would be awkward to say the least too. Double A arms are much more compact and more compatible in that situation.

Yeh, it may be possible to get a shifter off another car. Getrag box isn't it? BMW for one. BTW, the RB25 turbo boxes are very strong, have a good rep.

Mine's a narrow fit fixed Sparco. I'm fairly tall, 6'2" in the old money, so the stock seat rails were too high, plus I like to sit low and close to the wheel. Ended up cutting through the stock mount member and having to make up a bolt in base. Had I know that in advance it would have been done better by welding in a new base and reinforcing the floor.

Hmmm, bit out of my bang for buck league. Speaking of value, the Performance Challenger are a good deal at ~ AU$200 each, up to ten inches wide though eights will do me. Paint the centers black and with the already polished rims look quite OK for road/track. See them at the bottom right http://www.performancewheels.com.au/classic.htm

Ahhh, sounded too good to be true at that price for a set. Nice looking wheels, oh well, looks like if you want something outside the square you have to pay for it. The Simmons OM 15 in 15x8" for AU$572 each (around US$420?) look like the final choice. Check them out http://www.simmonswheel.com.au/range.html#

Anyone using these? They have some decent styles that appear as if they might fit our cars, particularly the 340 series which comprises several styles, the 340 or 341 look to be light and brake cooling friendly. US$650, which I assume is for a set. Lots of sizes too including 15x8", no specific offset etc details although they mention that the 340 series is for older cars. Have a look at http://www.hrewheels.com/Wheels/