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I was wondering if there is a simple way to make this part straight again. i don't know what it is called but it is circled in white. anyone have any tips on what to do. Thanks

Hey guys, I just started installing my Eibach ProKit springs on my 240z. I brainlessly painted over the part numbers on the springs so I had to do a lot of research to figure out which one was which. The longer non-progressive spring is 6305.001 and goes in the front, I believe, and the progressive shorter spring is 6305.202 and goes in the rear. This is correct yes? I installed the longer non-progressive spring (what I believe to be 6305.001) on one of the front struts last night and the spring looks to be slightly bent out sideways -- i.e. it's not straight up and down. You can also see that it's not straight because the piston rod is not visibly centered within the spring. I'm not sure if it's just not seated properly or what. I did notice the spring coil ends are in the little groves in the strut cap and strut base. See the pictures below and see what you think.

So I came across a hell of a deal on an s13 rear sub frame and ended up picking it up for $10 ! I've seen a few threads on this topic so don't think I haven't done my research it's just that they were all older threads and I didn't feel like resurrecting it from its hibernation. Now a few of my buddies told me that it should bolt in with little to no modification/fabricating. I know also then you could run more recent brakes (Z32 all day baby) and also have an easier platform to a 5 lug swap and better differentials. Some insight on if this will work and if it will the steps it would take. Thanks guys! - Grayson

Hi, I'm looking for a used msa victory or retro spec downforce spoiler for my 280z. Fiberglass is acceptable. Looking at all tall spoilers but not the whale tail style. If you have one you are interested in letting go please PM me or comment below. Thank you

I would like to purchase a decent condition rear hatch for Datsun s30 coupe. I hope that the part has minimal rust. Glass is not needed. Please send your offers with pictures to my private message or by e-mail make114@gmail.com

Hello im Will and this is my first post in the weld and fab area. About a month or so ago I started looking at rear strut tower braces for my 280Z, and found that they were a little pricey. So I set off to build my own and this is what I was able to come up with. Materials 0.875” cold roll steel bar for center bar , 3/8 rod ends with weld bungs and cone spacers from QS Components for adjustability , 0.115” steel plate for mount , 3/8 grade 8 mounting hardware , black plasitdip for center bar, and black wrinkle paint for mount. The build. The whole thing started with piece of steel bar and some cardboard and I idea of “ ya I can do this “ . strut bar? mounting plates cardboard version traced on to plate and cutting out cut and then cleaned drilled& test fitting more strengeth was needed so I made the chioce to add some gussets to the sides. The rod end kit i got is made to work 3/4 dom tubeing and I wanted somthing a bit more stout so I used 0.875" cold roll steel bar drilled out to have a 5/8" wide 3/4" deep hole in the end to perfectly fit the weld bungs for the rod ends. This gave me a wall thickness of 0.130" much better then the 0.058" wall the bung was made to fit. Test fit before weld of bung and gussett All welded up and ready for clean up and paint. All painted and test installed ( no rear struts in car ) Over all came out good I think, and for the total price of $18.00 I am very happy. please feel free to leave any tips or pointers for my next adventure in welding and fab. Prints by HWvigo

Hello HybridZ, I have been in the process of rebuilding an L28 engine with mild cam i picked up for $250 with a 5 speed. The block is a F54 with N47 head and has P79 pistons. The previous owner said "it only needs new valve seals to run right"... So I hot tanked the block, installed new rings, valve seals, some bolts here and there, all gaskets, and seals...and some more parts (cant remember at the moment: nothing major though) Now that i am assembling the new engine, the rear main seal is of incorrect size. I originally ordered an aftermarket one off motorsport auto, but it does not match the one out of the block. I took it back, and tried my luck with black dragon's rear main seal...but that did not work either. So i spent all of today scouring the internet for the origin of this seal from my block. The original seal is labeled "NDK - angus", as well as "SGL2 80 100 13 si". Even searching the measurements did nothing for me. The guy who helped me at motorsport auto (i forget his name unfortunately) told me that all L6 motors from L24 through L28 turbo blocks use the size they offer, but it does not seem to fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will post pictures shortly. - Wes

Wanted to buy two 280Z stub axles, mine are damaged. Let me know what you have and how much you want for them shipped to Wisconsin - Thanks

Does anyone know the difference between Back Hatch Seal and Deck Lid Seal? They look the same to me, but one is $6 per foot, and the other is $12 per foot. http://www.metrommp.com/ > Online Catalogue > 1971 > Nissan > 240z (I cannot copy the address) Thanks.