Danno74Z

The PCM (Computer) on the 95 LT1 engine part # 16188051 has four 32-pin connectors - Red, Black, Grey (Clear), and Blue. Below is a description of use, the wire color used by GM and pin locations. Not all of the pins “cavities†are used on each connector ("OMIT" by GM) and not all are needed to run the LT1 engine in a Datsun. Super280z and Tim240Z indicated the pinouts they are using to operate their engines and I can only assume all is fine with their advise. I have not gotten to this point yet in my conversion but gathering data at this point. Danno74Z RED CONNECTOR PIN # WIRE COLOR,,CKT,,,,,,,,,,,,,DESCRIPTION 2,,,,,,,,,blk/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,451,,,,,,,,,,,,,PCM Ground 3,,,,,,,,,blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1744,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #1 Control 4,,,,,,,,,lt blue/blk,,,,,,,,,,,844,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #4 Control 5,,,,,,,,,yel/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,846,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #6 Control 6,,,,,,,,,red/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,877,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #7 Control 7,,,,,,,,,dk grn/wht, ,,,,,,,,465,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Pump Relay Control 8,OMIT 9,,,,,,,,,gry,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,435,,,,,,,,,,,,,,EGR Vacuum Control Signal Solenoid Valve Control 10,,,,,,,,dk blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,473,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Coolant Fan Relay #2 and #3 Control 11,,,,,,,,dk grn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,335,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Coolant Fan Relay #1 Control 12,,,,,,,,tan/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,464,,,,,,,,,,,,,,EBTCM TP Sensor Signal 13,,,,,,,,wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,121,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Tach Output 14,,,,,,,,brn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,436,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Air Pump Relay Control 15,,,,,,,,dk blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1493,,,,,,,,,,,,,Performance Indicator Control 16,OMIT 17,OMIT 18,,,,,,,,,tan/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,551,,,,,,,,,,,,,PCM Ground 19,,,,,,,,,lt grn/blk,,,,,,,,,,,1745,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #2 Control 20,,,,,,,,,blk/wht ,,,,,,,,,,,,,845,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #5 Control 21,,,,,,,,,pnk/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1746,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #3 Control 22,,,,,,,,,dk blu/wht,,,,,,,,,878,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Injector #8 Control 23 ,,,,,,,,orn/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,463,,,,,,,,,,,,Traction Control System Spark Retard Request 24,OMIT 25,,,,,,,,,dk blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,229,,,,,,,,,,,,Fuel Enable Signal 26-30,OMIT 31,,,,,,,,ppl,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,401,,,,,,,,,,,VSS Ground 32,,,,,,,,yel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,400,,,,,,,,,,,VSS Signal BLACK CONNECTOR PIN # WIRE COLOR,,CKT,,,,,,,,,,,,,DESCRIPTION 1,,,,,,,,,dk grn/wht ,,,,,,,,,,762,,,,,,,,,,,,,,A/C Request 2,,,,,,,,,red/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,453,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Low Resolution Siginal 3,,,,,,,,,pnk/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,632,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Distributor Ref. Low Signal 4,OMIT 5,,,,,,,,,wht,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,423,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Ignition Control(IC) 6,,,,,,,,,blk,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,470,,,,,,,,,,,,,,TP Sensor, ECT Ground Reference 7,,,,,,,,,lt grn,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,1222,,,,,,,,,,,,1-2 Shift Solenoid Control 8,,,,,,,,,dk grn/wht,,,,,,,,,,817,,,,,,,,, ,,,,VSS Output (4000PPM) 9-11,OMIT 12,,,,,,,yel/blk,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,1223,,,,,,,,,,,,2-3 Shift Solenoid Control 13,,,,,,,gry,wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,587,687,,,,,,,Skip Shift Sol. Control, 3-2 Shift Sol. Ctrol. 14,,,,,,,red,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,631,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Distributor Ignition Feed 15,,,,,,,orn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,340,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Battery Feed 16,,,,,,,blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,452,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,IAT,MAP,A/C Refrig, A/C Evap Temp. Ground Ref. 17-18, OMIT 19,,,,,,,yel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,492,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,MAF Signal 20,,,,,,,ppl/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,430,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,High Resolution Signal 21,,,,,,,dk grn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,59,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,A/C Clutch Status 22-27,OMIT 28,,,,,,,gry,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,474,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,+5 Volts Reference 29,,,,,,,gry,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,416,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,+5 Volts Reference 30,,,,,,,pnk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,439,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Ignition Feed 31,,,,,,,orn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,340,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Battery Feed 32,OMIT GREY/CLR CONNECTOR PIN # WIRE COLOR,,CKT,,,,,,,,,,,,,DESCRIPTION 1,,,,,,,,,lt blu/wht,,,,,,,,,,,1747,,,,,,,,,,,,,IAC Coil “A†High 2,,,,,,,,,lt blu/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,1748,,,,,,,,,,,,,IAC Coil “A†Low 3,4,OMIT 5,,,,,,,,,lt grn/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,444,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,IAC Coil “B†Low 6,,,,,,,,,lt grn/wht,,,,,,,,,,1749,,,,,,,,,,,,,,IAC Coil “B†High 7,,,,,,,,,tan,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1667,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Bank #2 HO2S Low 8,,,,,,,,,ppl,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1666,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Bank #2 HO2S High 9-10, OMIT 11,,,,,,,lt blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,832,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Traction Control System Active 12, OMIT 13,,,,,,,lt blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,553,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Performance Mode Input 14,,,,,,,lt blu/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,583,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Brake Signal 15,,,,,,,orn/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,434,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PNP Signal 16,,,,,,,red/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1228,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pressure Control Solenoid 17-18,OMIT 19,,,,,,,tan/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1653,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Bank #1 HO2S Low 20,,,,,,,ppl/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1665,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Bank #1 HO2S High 21,,,,,,,tan,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,472,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,IAT Signal 22,,,,,,,dk blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,417,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,TP Sensor Signal 23,,,,,,,lt grn,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,432,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,MAP Signal 24,OMIT 25,,,,,,,yel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,410,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ECT Signal 26-27,OMIT 28,,,,,,,pnk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1224,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Range Signal “A†29,,,,,,,dk blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1225,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Range Signal “B†30,,,,,,,red,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1226,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Range Signal “C†31,OMIT 32,,,,,,,blk/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,451,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PCM Ground BLUE CONNECTOR PIN # WIRE COLOR,,CKT,,,,,,,,,,,,,DESCRIPTION 1,,,,,,,,,tan/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,551,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,PCM Ground 2,,,,,,,,,lt blu/wht,,,,,,,,,,,1229,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Pressure Control Solenoid Low 3,,,,,,,,,pnk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,439,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Ignition Feed 4-5,OMIT 6,,,,,,,,,lt grn, brn,,,,,,,,,,,1652,418,,,,,,Rev. Lockout Solenoid Contr., TCC PWN Sole. Cont. 7,OMIT8,,,,,,,,,dk grn/wht,,,,,,,,,459,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,A/C Clutch Relay Control 9,,,,,,,,,brn/wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,419,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,MIL (Service Engine Lignt) Indicator Control 10,,,,,,,dk grn/wht,,,,,,,,,428,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Control 11,,,,,,,tan,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,422,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,TCC Solenoid Control 12,,,,,,,red/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,380,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Signal 13-14,OMIT 15,,,,,,,wht,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,375,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Skip Shift Indicator Control 16-19,OMIT 20,,,,,,,wht/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,448,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Output/Field Service Enable Terminal 21,OMIT 22,,,,,,,dk blu,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,496,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Knock Sensor Signal 23,OMIT 24,,,,,,,dk blue,,,,,,,,,,,,,,732,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,A/C Temperature Sensor Signal 25-27,OMIT 28,,,,,,,yel/blk,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1227,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor Signal 29,OMIT 30,,,,,,,tan,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,800,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Serial Data 31-32,OMIT

Pete, Thanks again for the advice. I don't have the front springs yet, but I probably will go with 175's. Very interesting about the front rear frequencies as I did not consider or even think about that possibility. Danno74Z

dmyntti, Ron Tyler, built up a LT1 V8 Conversion a few years back and here is a quote on what he did in regards to the knock sensor. "I am using Hooker ceramic street rod headers. The pass. side flange lands on the knock sensor. I moved the knock sensor to the engine set-back plates (mounts). This gives metal-on-metal contact to the block and works well." I'm going to try this with my setup once I get to that point. Dewzenol, I found this up on the S&S Page: 5205 SB 1-3/4 Chevy Headers SB 1-3/4' Long Hugger 1927-34/ 1935-48 Fat Fenders with Rack & Pinion /1962-67 Nova with Rack & Pinion Steering/Straight or Angle Plugs/240/260 Z Datsun with Small Block Chevy -Raw Price $276.75 Other currencies FYI: I thought it was interesting they mentioned the Datsun Z with the Chevy engine. Also, in one of the links above it mentioned that these header's hung very low and were a B%^&* to install. Danno74Z

Ross, Thank you for the input on the springs. I will give them a try and like I said, see how they feel. If I don't like the ride, I can always change the springs out - that is the beauty of coilovers. Danno74Z PS. I used the tool I bought from Dan to remove the Transverse Link Pin and one side came out just fine. The other side was a different story. I ruined part of the tool trying to get it out! After much frustration and agony, I finally said $%^& it and cut the TLP at two points with my Sawzall. Once I had the strut section separated from the control arm, I used my 15-ton harbor freight press to force that pin out and even with the press it was hard to remove! That sucker was rusted in there and the press kind of jumped as I applied pressure to the pin. Right to the limit! In hindsight, I think if I had heated the center section where the pin was rusted, perhaps it might of come out with Dan's tool. The only drawback to this is then your dealing with burning hot steel while trying to use that tool - I did not want to burn myself. Dealing with rusted parts just sucks! I just got thinking I was applying 30,000 psi to that pin with my press!!!

BlueovalZ, I just saw your reply- cool - a lot of brainpower on board! So, in your opinion a 200 lb/in spring is just too stiff for a road car? Perhaps an occasional autocross run but this will be a streetcar 99% of the time. Danno74Z

Jeremy, I will just try out the 200lb springs and see how they work. If you say they are too stiff they probably are. GC made the recommendation and I went wit it. Because I'm going to add 200lbs to the front of the Z over the inline 6, would it make sense to use those springs up front? Perhaps use 150 lbs in the rear? Would this work or would it just mess up everything? Pete, Sorry, about asking a suspension question in the announcement forum and thanks for moving it over. Yes the bolt and the rod ends are a very good fit. Not as tight as the spindle pin - thank God (I think Datsun put those pins in liquid nitrogen to contract them) but a 1-2 thousand clearance, perhaps less. I don't feel and lateral movement in this assembly. Good info on the spring! It might be a little too stiff according to Jeremy. What are your thoughts about putting the stiffer springs up front? As usual both you guy's are awesome! Danno74Z

Rick, I'm in the middle of doing a total rebuild on my rear suspension and I'm very interested in the way you modified and installed the rear sway bar. Do you have any pictures of the setup you could share? Thanks, Danno74Z

Mark, Welcome to HybridZ. I bought my LT1 engine and T56 tranny from High Performance Salvage outside of San Antonio, TX (200 miles from Houston)and had the whole package shipped to CO. Mark Whitley, is the Proprietor of HPS and is an excellent source of information on the LT1 and LS1 engine swaps. Here is his website http://www.hpsalvage.com/ In addition, he has a lot of links and good information on putting these engines into older vehicles. Here are a few other sites for you - ENJOY! http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4955/camaro1.html http://lt1powered85z.cz28.com/custom.html http://home.tir.com/~steveher/lt4.html http://www.vetteworksonline.com/LT1%20conversion.htm The above sites should get you going and THIS site has a wealth of knowledge too just do a search and I guarantee you will find what your looking for. Danno74Z

Mike, I'm definitely not an expert in this area but and I'm sure other will chime in. If you do this swap your new lift values will be 536/544 and you have to make sure your valve springs are up to the task without binding. I also read that more lift makes more horsepower and torque (some obvious physical constraints) but one drawback to a lot of lift is that it tends to make a torque curve peaky, i.e. increase midrange while hurting upper and low rpm. Like everything with engine mods it's a balancing act. Danno74Z

I found a site that may help you with the install of your CSI pump. This fellow installed a Meziere Pump, but the process should be exactly the same. I would heed his recommendation on using a relay with your WP. http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.asp Danno74Z

Mudge, I own a 95 LT1 engine and it's going into my 74 260Z. This engine is a major improvement (some might not agree) over the original Datsun engine that I am ready to extract! My only complaint is that with just a little more engineering work in the optispark area it could have been better package – short or long term. The Optispark ignition is definitely the Achilles Heel of the LT1 engine and I will have to learn to live with it. Maybe one day, I will trash the entire system and put an Electromotive Tech3 system on – who knows. Through my research I now understand how the system works and hopefully others learned a little too. Danno74Z 95 LT1 /T56

Well, I got it figured out after some study. The OptiSpark (OS) is much more then your run-of-the-mill distributor. Too bad it's located under the water pump assembly. Before I forget, the LT1 is a sequential fuel injected system. The Ignition Control system comprises of the (2) CAMSHAFT position sensor (CPS), ignition coil, ignition coil module and PCM. The CPS is part of the OS distributor. (A dowel pin off of the front of the camshaft drives the Optispark.) The OS contains 5 circuits: Low resolution signal reference, high-resolution signal reference, distributor reference low signal, distributor ignition feed, and IC (ignition coil). Briefly, in order. LRSR - provides the PCM with reference signals, firing order, and CAMSHAFT position information (this was the key information I was looking for). HRSR- Provides PCM with detailed reference signals and CRANKSHAFT position information. DRLS - A redundant ground for the distributor. DIF - Provides power to the distributor. IC - This circuit controls the ignition coil on and off time. The Optispark contains not one but two optical camshaft position (CMP) sensor assemblies that provide signals to the PCM for timing control. One CMP senses 360 equally spaced slots to provide 720 signals per camshaft revolution for high-resolution timing control. The other CMP sensor senses eight disk slots of variable length, providing a low-resolution signal that tells the PCM which spark plug is being fired. Well there you have the low-down on the OptiSpark Distributor System. It's too bad that GM did not use a distributor-less system that was used on the 3.4L engine or at least use hall–effect sensors within the Optispark. I think 90% of the issues with the OS would have been eliminated. Optical sensors on an engine – crazy, it probably worked great in the lab! Danno74Z

I'm trying to figure out and understand how the 93-96 LT1 engines can run the fuel injection system sequentially without a cam sensor. I know all about the Optispark (nothing more then an optical distributor) and its functions, but I'm at a loss on how the computer knows when to "squirt" the individual injectors. Many FIS systems are bank to bank or phased type FI but true sequential requires precision timing with the cam - correct? Thanks, Danno74Z

VRjoe, I agree with you! I'm far from endorsing this product, as I cannot see any true improvements over the original Optispark unit. In does come in four different anodize colors so one can coordinate their sparkplug wires to it . Just some food for thought. Danno74Z

I just found this site/company that builds from scratch optispark replacement units. However, the price is a little steep at $595. I believe one can find an OEM unit for around $300 so this guy costs twice as much. Does one get twice the value and performance - that is hard to answer. "Each distributor is assembled and blueprinted in house using genuine GM electronic components and all receive thorough testing before they leave our facility to insure proper function. Absolute precision and care is executed by our professional staff in assembling and blueprinting each unit to exacting tolerances, so that the product you receive will deliver the performance we promise" http://www.dynotech-eng.com/dynaspark.htm Danno74Z

Go to this site for a further explanation of the different PCM's used. http://www.fuelinjection.com/portinj.html Powertrain Control Module (PCM) The PCM is a programmable computer and does not contain a EPROM or calibrator as did its predecessor. The PCM contains a Electronically Eraseable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM). This unit must be programed before being placed in service. These Units can be re- programed for any engine / transmission combination. All of these units are Sequential Port Fuel Injection (SEFI). PCM Model Year GMpartNo Engine BF 1994-1995 16188051 5.7L LT1 Y 1994-1995 16181333 5.7L LT1/LT4 F,Y 1996 16214399 5.7L LT1 F 1997 16242921 5.7L LT1 F,Y 1997-1998 16238212 5.7L LS1 The Y model is your vette and 16181333 is the PCM# With the correct cable you "should" be able to program the unit just like the Camaro (F) body PCM (16188051) that I have. I also found this poking around: "The 1333 is the corvette variant. It is actually a 16188051 with an extra chip to run the OBD-II bus for a link to the corvette Central control module. It can be reprogrammed for the F and B body's." In addition, write to Andrew at AKM as he can most likely answer all your questions on programming the PCM and the different flavors that GM used. andrew@akmcables.com Danno74Z

Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/index.html Danno74z

What we need is a HybridZ Tool Loan Program. Rick you have some email. Danno74Z

Here is a picture of the tool to remove the pins and a link to its use. Larry, I will post some pics in a few days and again thanks for all your help on the struts!! http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001206 Danno74Z

Guy, Those stub axle nuts and the rear lower control arm nuts have got to be the hardest ones to remove on the Z car. On mine, I invited a buddy over to the house who use to work for the railroad (maintenance department) and showed him the nuts I wanted removed and he just smile and said piece-of-cake. The next day he brought over this wrench that was 48" inches long and socket set that was huge. I could barely lift the damn thing. Anyway, with a good tug and a screech from the nut it came right off. Danno74Z

Question. I have custom rims that are 5 lugs with 1/2" diameter lug boltholes and conical/tapered seats. 1/2" = 12.7mm and our Datsun lugs are 12mm so I'm shy .7mm or ~ 1/32" on each hole. Since these new rims have a tapered seat for the lug bolts to tighten up and center against, I don't think I have to go to the hassle or expense to drill out all the holes to put in the slightly larger 1/2" studs. What do you all think? Thanks, Danno74Z

Here is what the fuel pressure regulator looks like on the LT1 engine. To my knowledge all years look like this. The item at the top of the picture that looks like a vacuum advance on a distributor is the fuel pressure regulator. Danno74Z LT1 Conversion

DS, Soon nothing will be free on the Internet. I'm convinced one day we will all pay for every email we send!!! Like making a telephone call today. Once, local calls were free but in many municipalities you pay for local calls now. I can see in a few years, 10-20 cents being charged for every email sent – I hope I’m wrong but I don’t thing so. People are so use to using the Internet and sending emails (we are hooked –an addiction) that the powers-that-be can charge anything and we will pay for it. Imagine going back to regular snail mail to converse! I can’t. Nothing stays free – ever. Forgot to mention good luck on changing the spacers. Once you do that I bet your headers will fit. If you still need to move the steering shaft John Scott (hybridZ member) has done it and it came out GREAT. Danno74Z

DS, I tried to look at you photos but I keep on getting this message (below). What is going on? Danno74Z Sorry, this free account is in the process of being phased out and the viewing privileges for this account are now restricted. Photos in this particular account can no longer be viewed as a visitor, they can only be viewed by logging into the members area of this account. To restore full viewing privileges for this account, the member must log into the members area and upgrade it to the Premium level. Once the account is upgraded, visitors (non-members) will be able to view photos in this account once again. To upgrade this account please CLICK HERE

GaryZ For someone who has not done the swap already (like me!), a nice website or table presenting all of this in a matrix-format would be great in that there is a lot of material to digest! Here is a good resource for the swap. "Swapping the R180 for an R200 In A 240Z" http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm Take your time! Danno74Z