Danno74Z

Out of all the articles I've read about the T56 tranny and its unique "pull" type of engagement the SPEC clutch is something to look into:2thumbs:. Here is a link to several sites - goodluck. Danno74Z http://www.performanceunlimitedusa.com/SPEC/chevycamaro.htm An article about SPEC clutches: http://www.darkhorseracing.net/toppage3.htm SPEC has a website but it is not up and running. http://www.speclutches.com

I'm in the process of doing the LT1/T56 6 spd conversion. I have research this issue a lot and here is what I found. Either direction whether it be the aftermarket such as March or Street And Performance you are going to spend a $$TON$$ of money and I have yet to see these brackets used on a 350 Z conversion project. Figure on spending about 1K and I don't know if this accessory layout would even fit the Z engine bay. Corvette method: This system would most likely fit the Z, but again I have not seen it done. I call several wreaking yards that part-out late model Vettes and many would not sell me just the accessories and brackets. Apparently, finding a late model blown Vette engine is about as difficult as finding a LSD. If you do find one you need EVERYTHING from the vette motor not just the bracket. The crank pulley, alternator, AC compressor and naturally the bracket that holds all this stuff are unique to this setup. I guess you can do what Tim did to the power steering pump (unique) with the Vette serpentine system and use it as an idler pulley. I tried to piece this altogether - a little from one place some from another and again money and availability became an issue. Try pricing a AC compressor for a vette! $400-$500 bucks right there. The LT1 is a great engine and since I already have it I have to make it work, but it does have its challenges. Who said this was going to be easy – right. I have an idea to make the engine with the current accessories fit but I’m working on that. If it looks like things fit I will let you know. Danno74Z LT1/T56 conversion http://www.marchperf.com/ http://www.tunedport.com/index_nodynamichtml.html

Hi Pete, Now that your Z is back on the road how does it ride i.e. harsh, stiff, or too soft? If you had to change the spring rate would you? What would you do different with the struts etc.? Some basic question but your knowledge and opinions are most welcomed. Have a Happy New Year! Danno74Z

Here is another company that sells the T56 tranny. http://www.ddperformance.com/driveline.htm I don't know anything about them except they advertise in Chevy High Performance - can't be bad. Danno74Z LT1/T56

There are three numbers depending on the year of the MR-2; 85-86 BZ1086, 87-89 BZ3099 and 90-95 BZ3126. Looks like the 87-89 MR2 is the one to use based on BZ3099 mentioned. Danno74Z

Tomahawk, I forgot to mention I have an early 74 260Z car I'm working on. This uses the same strut carts. that the 240Z uses. I will not be using camber plates as this will be a daily driven car and the plates yield a rough ride IMO. Having said that, I want to use the OEM solid rubber hats (somehow) but use coil over springs. I already have the coilover's from GC and the REAR Tokico Illumina Struts #BZ3016. I thought I made a big mistake but luck was with me. As it turns out, the only difference between the fronts struts #BZ3015 and the rears #BZ3016 is the spacer that comes with the rears. This spacer comes in the box already attached to strut - just pushed on to the little pad at the bottom of the strut tube and easily removed or modified. I called GC and asked them about this and they said the spacer is the only difference between the two. Just passing on that information.

Tomahawk, Like I said I did do some digging in the archives but really found no concrete information. Boy, would it be nice if detailed strut data was available and not this hit or miss stuff. I will let you know what I find out. Danno74Z

I search for about an hour through the archives and I can’t find the “recommended†Tokico Illumina rear strut when used in the front of the Z with sectioned struts. There are three numbers depending on the year of the MR-2; 85-86 BZ1086, 87-89 BZ3099 and 90-95 BZ3126. Any help would be appreciative. Danno74Z

That new Holden(AKA GTO)looks like a FORD MUSTANG!! Can't beat-um join-um I guess:malebitchslap:

FYI: You can own the first one!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852747075#specs

Update: The banjo bolts and washers that I ordered from Nissan fit perfectly. Danno74Z

I will add a little to what Trevor said. The stock 280Z rotors will not very easily bolt up to the 300ZX rotor at all. These are all two piece type rotors and the rotor part bolts to the hub from the backside. the 280Z uses 4 bolts (not lug nuts) to mate it to the hub and the 300ZX (5 lug) uses 5 bolts. The hole diameter is also different between the 2 models. Again, the 280Z has a much larger diameter opening (the part that slips over the rear part of the hub) then the 300ZX. You would have to do some machining work for sure and in addition drill new holes in the rotor. The offset is very different between the 2 hubs - 3/4" difference. So whatever wheels you are going to use take that into consideration. Danno74Z

FYI: I too have Ross's rear brake conversion kit. Beautiful. To complete the conversion my calipers needed the banjo bolts and washers to mount the ss lines. I went to Nissan today and ordered them up. If others need the hardware, here are the # and prices. Washers (called gasket) 46237-A4600 $.44 each (4 needed) Bolt (hose) 46356-0E000 $4.09 (2 needed)

Thanks Ross and Mike for putting this together for us. Danno74Z

Scottie, Not a harebrain:bonk:idea at all I hope. I believe I am the only person on HybridZ who has done a complete cut and re-weld of the front hubs – let me explain. I purchased custom 5 lug wheels prior to doing my front brake conversion which was a very bad mistake. I could not return the rims for a refund and I did not want to eat the cost for another set of rims so I was in a real quandary. The five lug 300ZX hubs push the track outwards about 1†on a side and I did not know this! I took the 5 lug hubs to my machinest/weldor friend and explained the situation to him. After a few days he came up with this. He parted the flange part of the hub (the area that lugs bolts are located) from where the bearings sit (the bearings still sit in their original location). He machined a pair of matching seats on both parts and then welded both together – very, very carefully as this is a high grade of cast iron which requires a special welding technique. After letting the parts cool for a few days he machined both front and back surfaces of the flange. This was to remove any welding irregularities and now the 5 lug hub flange is at the same offset as the original 4 lug and the rims fit within the wheel well. Wow - I hope this explanation makes sense to you. I realize it is not quite what you want to do but it possible to weld the hubs with care. I like your idea of machining basically concentric circles together vs. parting the flange from the hub like I did. I can always try this method at a later date if needed. Lesson learned. Don’t order rims until one does all brake and suspension work first! I just read that a Chevy hub may work on the Datsun spindle. That is very interesting and I was always curious about the interchangeability of hubs from manufacture to manufacturer. Just be careful that the Chevy hub mounting flange is at the correct offset that you need for your application and current rims or you will be in my situation. Danno74Z

Mike, What is the status of the Ebrake Adaptor? Danno74Z

John, "one pair of 88-94 240SX rear calipers complete with hangers (similar to late 280zx calipers but different offset, pad size is 25% larger than early 280zx calipers)" I quoted this from Ross's site so you "should" have the correct caliper since they are brand new. Even rebuilt the price for this caliper is very high like over $200 each! I think the parts person pulled the wrong parts for you. MTC Danno74Z

I will help you out a little on some of your questions but I'm a little short on time myself today. I will talk about the items I know about and I’m sure other members will fill in the holes. JTR Method? If your short on time GO THE JTR ROUTE the whole way as it truly the best method to install a small block Chevy engine fast. Since you are using a LT1 Vette engine all the accessories are on the drivers side which should make for an easier install for you verses the LT1 out of the Camaro etc. The JTR tranny mount will work with the T56 but some modifications are needed on the transmission tunnel. What about VATS? Needs to be deleted from the computer so the engine will start. You can send the ECM out for reprogramming or do it yourself through a program called LT1 Edit. Does standalone mean no ECM? No it doesn’t. Your ECM runs the engine only with a standalone engine harness that you build or have built from a vender. A standalone engine could theoretically could be dropped into any host car. Don’t forget your state emissions policy. What exhaust manifolds or header? If I’m not mistaken those are center dump on a vette engine so you “should†be ok if they tuck in close to the block. A trial fit with the engine in the bay and in the correct setback position is the only way to tell if your going to have interference problems. Well I need to run but some food for thought. Danno74Z LT1/T56

This probably should be down in the For Sale area but a dealer in Chevy parts has 25 new opti spark distributors for sale. At $205 that is very good deal for a brand new distributor. If the LT1 has an weak point this part is it. FYI Danno74Z

Whenever I read replies like the ones above, I can't wait to get very serious on my LT1 V8 conversion. I have the complete 95’ engine and T56 tranny to use. I have been busy with the suspension and brakes and a million other things around the house and work But you guys keep me inspired through this forum. THANKS Danno74Z

Go to this site for a very detailed look at the differences between the two engines. http://home.tir.com/~steveher/lt4.html Danno74Z

The center hole is 81mm or 3.189 inches. Danno74z

A friend sent this link to me today. You got to love neighbors like this! Enjoy! Danno74Z Great Neighbors... Read this and view the pictures... Gets better as you go... http://www.knology.net/~carlos/redneck.htm

Mike, I did a little checking for you on the rotors and SCCA and Blueovalz are correct. Here are the actual dimensions for that rotor. 300ZX Turbo 1984-89 SOLID 290mm Dia. 47mm Ht. 10(9)mm thick 68mm center hole 5lug All in mm solid rotor 290mm = 11.4173" Dia. 47mm = 1.85" total width height Danno74Z

I emailed Phantom Grip late last week. Below is their response back to me - looks like an alternative carrier to the Quaife is possible. DAN, YES PART # 908 WILL WORK FINE FOR YOU. THANK YOU PHANTOM GRIP!