Comrade_Charlie

Just traded my broke down 1990 maxima for this 1982 maxima, has the l24e crap. runs good but needs more power! Id love to just wait and fix the 280z, but I want to see this car go fast and I just love everything about it. Ive had the l28et in my 280z, getting ready for it to run, but the body needs a fair amount of rust repair and this maxima is rust free for the most part, runs and drives good, so it wont need a new gas tank or a bunch of new brake parts like my 280z, and its a pimp-mobile with my momo wheels on it. Any way it is a auto and it will remain a auto(it may hold the power, it probably wont), but untill I can dish out the money to get a t5 and a t5 driveshaft and the other auto>manual parts, it will be a auto. I have a auto from my orignal l28et from a 81 with only 100K miles on it, still in good shape as a back up, if the DS will spline into it. My main concern is that these are front sump, does the pickup just swap over from the l24e to the l28et, and all I have to do is add a oil drain in the l24e pan for the turbo? What is the usually oil pressure for a L-series engine, this at about 2000 rpms shows between 50-90 psi. I read that is was supposed to be between 10 and 30... Do these l24e's have good pumps or something? oh and pictarS. After the l28et swap, I plan on doing a auto trans oil cooler, and eibach 280zx springs. The front valance needs some work. I was surprised that a car this old still had a clean engine bay, this car has 128k on it. 4wheel disc its a clean car It says "SWAP ME"

Might give up on the 280z for now if I get the engine running good. im getting a maxima 1982 with a l24e in it, might just swap everything into it, lower it, throw my momo rims on it and call it a week LOL. That would give me time to work on the rust on the 280z, id hate to get the car running then not have it safe to drive..... if something is running im driving it

yup, I spaced my wheels out less than 10mm and needed longer studs, went with rear quest ones like you. work great http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147593

It wasnt showing to good of compression, but i had all the plugs out and was oiling up the cylinders and kept turn it over letting the oil come out if it needed to for a while then checked compression, if I get it running and warmed up, ill check it again

I got the rear and front because I didnt know which would work, I took my dial caliper from my machining class and checked the diamater of the knurl and the rear quest ones are about .015 smaller than the front 280z studs. So I used them and they worked perfect. Dont mind the paint, im about to strip it down and primer it. but got my momo rims on there, after I jacked it up, it stayed up pretty high so it looks retarded........... it need suspension

Dont waste your time taking a picture... I was just making sure it wasnt the same as the pictured one, those look funky. Im going to try quest ones, if those dont work, ill order those. Dont throw away lug nuts, ship em to me. I had like 25 spare nissan ones but I dont know where they are.... Oh and by the way, im real cheap.

It uses a maf, I already have it hooked up to the turbo on my 280z. People use z31 ecus on the l28 with the l28 CHTS with out problems, im just going the extra step and using the whole harness since the stock harness is all messed up... Ill just have to splice in the right conectors, I have a complete l28et 1981 harness, its cut in places but complete. Also planning on using a z31/maxima alternator...

Isnt nissan 12mmx1.25? I guess get Mitsubishi lug nuts, I think those are 1.5, Thanks Thats not a bad deal. Is the one in the picture the ones your using?

Im cheap, and thanks for the link... It seems that quest studs are pretty long, 45mm in rear or front, and 46mm in rear or front, im too lazy to look, compared to 32mm on the 280z front, that should be more than enough for a 10mm spacer. but im going to try that as it would only be about 10 bucks from autozone.

Just found this, I searched and found nothing, then posted, then searched on google and found this. Ill look into the quest/villager studs. but would still like to know where I could get some aftermarket ones. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1012581

Someone gave me a set of old 5star momo rims, I don't like wheel spacers but this 280 is kinda a budget/see-what-I-can-do-with-least-amount-of-money-car and I absolutely love these rims but need a 10mm spacer for the front, and might run the same spacer in the back but it is not needed. But where can i get longer wheel studs for the front and back. I know at autozone or advanced they can only look up parts for a specfic car and they are usually no help. Im probably just going to run a universal 4lug spacer off of ebay.

Its not close to being able to start, when i got this car it had no engine, trans, wiring harness... I was merely doing a compression check just to see if its worth throwing money at this engine. plus I was seeing if the oil pump was working since I took it off to put the 83 turbo shaft for the 83 turbo dist with the z31 CAS wheel in it, and I had heard that you need to prime the oil pump. I put in a good set of 300zx turbo fuel injectors in it already, and it has a known good z31 maf, I have a 84 300zx turbo ecu, and a 300zx turbo wiring harness waiting to go in it. If the engine is good I expect this thing to be stout, na engine, turbo, z31 fuel system.... I just need to check ignition timing, block off the egr port on the intake manifold, wire it up, get my fuel system up, put antifreeze in it, hook up a oil pressure gauge(all of the stock wiring harness is gone by the previous owner), im going to use a mechanical guage0-60 or 0-80psi, and try to crank it up. Ive never done wiring but it looks fairly strait forward with the the wiring diagrams of the z31 wiring harness from z31performance.com Im hoping to have it running in 2 weeks... to actually run I think I only need the dist wire, and the fuel injector wires. Atleast that is how it is on my z31, you can run that thing with 3 spark plugs, the dist wire, and 3 injector wires, its a trooper.

Those look like a set of 510 wheels that I wanted at one time.

Yea its a 76, I think im going to cut the hoses to get it out, since its worthless to try to save them, im sure they are all nasty too. Ill take a picture of what is coming out of the tank, looks like hardened lava HAHA. Im sure thats not good. And yea there are 255 inlines which will be more than I need for a stock turbo and 260cc injectors. Although im going to find the cheapest inline I can, probabaly a stock pump or something that works. a inline 255 is more money.

I had actually seen that 5spd video a while back. Ive heard that 5th gears in datsuns went out a lot. My buddy in a modded z31 blew out his 5th gear. You think it would go faster with a welded diff or lsd?

Yea there has been oil(atf) in the cylinders for a while before I started doing this, because i thought there was water in the intake and I didnt want it to rust the cylinders if they wernt already.

I know this is an old thread, but I searched for it and found it...... To swap in the z31 turbo 4bolt axles, you have to have the modern motorsport conversion stuff? There is no other way? http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=32_53&products_id=46 I remember seeing a thread on it but could not find it. I have 2 turbo axles laying around and a 3.7 diff waiting to be welded...... trying to overbuild this car with free crap I have, haha.

Nice. You have low compression engine or no? Got any more videos of your car. What clutch are you running? What gear fluid should I run in my 4spd(dont care about what it costs, redline shockproof? I have a 78 4spd out of a 2+2 car in my 76 so it has the bigger clutch(turbo or z31 one). Hopefully it will hold up for a while.

The other day I threw a batter in my Z, the wiring harness is pretty much gone for that, so I rigged a push button up to the starter, and got it spinning. The good news is it has good compression(78 na engine). I got close to 190psi on all cylinders if I did the compression test right, dont think yuo can mess it up, except for not having it at WOT. but I had the oil pressure sending unit out to see if oil was coming out, it did after turning it over a lot. and with the valve cover off I could see the cam was getting oil, and oil was running to the back of the head and draining. all good signs I think. What im wondering is about the oil pump. I took it off when I had the engine out, just to replace the gasket on it. and didnt prime it or nothing but also didnt let the oil drain out of it. and put it back on. since oil is going everywhere does that mean I dont need to. or do I need to hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and see what its doing, would it show any psi just from spinning with the starter? I was turning this engine over for a good 30 minutes to a hour off and on with all the spark plugs out. Oh and this engine is sposed to have like 110,000 miles on it, and hasnt ran in 10 years someone told me. I want to get it running in the next 2 weeks, not driving, just running. just got a z31 harness.

nissan automatics suck in general. The front end is smashed, I got the 98 pathy for 300 bucks, the rad was smashed but didnt leak, but the plastic end tanks finally cracked and was leaking... I put a rx7 radiator in there, it fits and works. I want to evntuall use it for towing, ill spend the cash for a good trans cooler. I have a 5spd for this but really dont feel like wrenching on this thing much. I just know in my maxima that was auto, I put the trans cooler after the radiator got the bulk of the heat out... im putting it in a big open spot in the front end. the frame isnt dmg, but the rad support is bent up enough to not fit a path radiator or condensor. but I dont have the cash to fix it, and cant bring myself to part it out. Im using a trans cooler from an explorer from a junkyard, I was thinking about using 2, side by side, not front and behind, so they both can get cold air. I really cant afford any thing over 10-20 bucks since im trying to get my 300zx back on the road.

My auto rad got bad, so I installed a 5spd one without a trans cooler thingy built in. Is it safe to install that and just a normal trans cooler? Would I run the chance of burning up my transmission? By the way this is a 1998 pathfinder, I know its not a Z but this is the most knowledgeable site there is!

turbos have a different driver mount, its moved forward, just like the mounting point on the crossmember. if it was me, id turbo and sc it LOL

me, my cousin, and all my friends say ken bell, but a bunch of camaro guys told us it was kenny bell, who knows.

Just a quick and probably stupid question, but I say it as "ken bell" and people tell me its "kenny bell". Which one is it? I just dont want to be saying the wrong thing and look stupid, about as stupid as I look making this thread LOL.

I have a 76 280z that hasnt ran in over I think 10 years. I took the drain plug out of the tank and nothing came out, then I stuck a screw driver up in it, and it poked a hole through like a quarter inch of black gunk or gripe, I dont think the tank has rust or anything, but this thing had to have like 3 or 4 gallons of 10 year old gas, it was nasty. What should I do, pull the tank out? can you even get into the tank like a 300zx tank with a intake fuel pump, or do you need to cut it open then welded shut again? I really dont want to buy another tank if I can clean this one out. Is it easy to upgrade to a inline walbro 255 pump? As mine wont come on, probably gummed up, I didnt exspect it to work.