Challenger

Haha, yeah nitrogen dioxide might not do as much to help engine performance, and its slightly toxic.

Yeah if it is a true turbo block youve pretty much got everything you need. If your able to find another block, turbo or non turbo you can easily swap all the parts, oil pan, oil tee fitting for the turbo, etc. The biggest difference I can think of would be the difference in the distance from the top of the piston to the first compression ring, which I believe is smaller on NA engines.

I lost $30 when I turned 18 at a black jack computer/table. I was up for awhile then lost it all. I was pissed.

Google wheel offset and read about the difference in fwd and rwd offsets. Notice that there is very little lip on those wheels compared to say the rotas posted above which have a few inches of lip.

The 280zx MC has them face the engine not the fender, its alot nicer. Also is that a crack free dash??

You know it could have been worse, any combo of the penis shape and the items you mentioned above would be awkward.

I actually got it to be reasonablly firm. Itll go about 2 inches and then stop. You can pump it forever and it never gets rock hard like my ZX will. Would this have anything to do with the stainless steel brake lines I have, maybe their the wrong size (to large?) and its not getting the same pressure? The other thing is would I have to modify the brake proportion valve in order to get more pressure to the back? I remember reading it somewhere, disks do require more line pressure than drums correct?

You didnt eat the cookie did you....

Well I was pretty set that the last MC I got was bad, it made a terrible gurgle noise. I "bench bled" (the wrong way) my new 15/16 one and it didnt have that sound once I installed it. Luckily I was able to take it back my original 7/8 one and get my money back. Drove to shucks and picked up a 15/16 and I was back in business. Now off to bleed the brakes hopefully one last time! And then Ill crack the MC bleeders again just for good luck.

Alright, you just put the MC on brand new, let it run fluid out the bleeder and then just bleed the brakes at the calipers. Sounds about where Im at. I guess Ill just go bleed them one more time to see what happens. Thanks for the help, Im starting to think there was always just a little air in the MC, I was bleeding from the wrong spot.

Those four bolts below the heat shield that go into the head dont "hold" the manifold on they just "hold" it on. If you remove the 4 bolts on the top of the manifold, two in the middle one on each end, make sure all the fuel lines and vacume lines are detached the manifold will pull strait up off the engine. The bolts you mentioned only wedge the manifold onto the engine, loosening only makes it easier to pull off. It will feel like its impossible to pull off but it is possible. I actually used an engine hoist an a junkyard to pull it off it was on there so tight.

Yeah, I have always thought the same thing. I was asking my dad last night, "so we pump the fluid down and some of the bubbles move along, then they just rise back to where they were." Didnt ever sound like a good method. And I took it for a drive and the brakes barely work. Again enough to keep me from moving if I let out the clutch or from rolling down the driveway. But, when I got back I got some hose put them on the side bleeders and "bench bleed" the master. A good amount of air came out and the pedal is ALOT firmer. I imagine I will need to bleed the whole system again but do I need to pull the master and actually bench bleed it off the car, or was what I did sufficient? Oops- Just noticed that the past tense of bleed is actually spelled, "bled" not "bleed". I think I used that word about a million times, the next million times Ill spell it correctly.

Save the money you would spend on storage. Put it into the car later, and as mentioned, do research so your ready when you start.

Its not that bad. Do you have a chiltons?

Well as for the coating and wrapping, I believe it was hughdogz that did this and he cracked his manifold it got so hot. Ill search for the post to confirm my memory. Also those protrusions can be ground smooth, I cant see any reason it would harm performance and the screw hole doesnt break through.

Ok, hold on... The instructions I had for bench bleeding included with the Master from what I understood said to put the plastic fittings in the bottom of the master cylinder where the normal brake lines hook up. Then proceed to bench bleed it till there is no air left. Now you say you need to bench bleed with the bleeders on the side of the master cylinder? Ive always bleed it using the bottom ports but never the sides, can there still be air in it that you miss using the bottoms?

Yeah, minor headwork.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132254&highlight=reinforcing+xenon+air+dam Heres what I did. Wow, its weird seeing those old photos of my old ugly wheels and suspension...

Looks very eighties but cool. Those belong on a s130 race car in my opinion. Also, you ever decide how much youd sell that 2+2 IMSA spoiler for?

From the pictures it looks like it was smashed by something or sat out in the sun for awhile. Just force it on to where youd like it and drill the holes. Then just let the car sit for awhile and it will soften up and its relaxed position will be how it fits on the car. Other option is to smash it (imagine putting it in a huge c clamp length wise) to make it closer to the original shape. Im sure you can figure something out. Overall, just mount it, it will be fine. Urethane is soft.

Guess you didnt get my hint. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115824

What does "wat" mean? Yes its supposed to have the crease in the middle. Its there to follow the body line up the hood. My airdam is mounted with those tabs on the inside.

Pictures are quite helpful. Also what style do you have?

Ahahahahah! No idea what he said. Oh know, is "ahahahaha" a word??? Oops!!! I used to many question marks and exclamation points.... Oops, 1 to many periods!

I went and switched my MC out for an 79-81 15/16 master cylinder. Im thinking the first was defective and that a MC meant for all disks might work better for all disks. Hopefully this will fix the issue. Im eating a burrito and then will go put it on. Xnke, I dont think it hit the floor, was really close though. (may be mistaken) Im running 83 280zx calipers, arent they very similar to the SXs?