Challenger

Well my buddy crashed his BMX bike yesterday, we didnt expect it to be bad but when he didnt get up we knew something was wrong. he was out for about 5-10 seconds and was in sever pain. We was coming down a ramp and missed that last couple feet and went over the bars landing on his right shoulder and face. He went by ambulance to the hospital and it turns out he has a broken number 6 vertebrae. They just called and told me he went into ICU because they cant move his neck to where it needs to be, but I dont know all the details on that part. Ive known him my for nearly 12 years and is a really good friend. Hes only 18 and has his whole life ahead of him and could really use your guys prayers. Thanks guys.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127186 You didnt find it because some big tough guys got it shedded.

I would have done something different for a red car.

You just have to ask the admin to change.

I saw something mention he was going ~150 mph and the spring weighed about 800g.... Thats alot of energy...

Jay is that on a Z or ZX? I dont see that fitting well. When I was looking at mounting my DSM Bov I could only see putting it verticaly (on a ZX).

Cant model it after the stock dash or thats stealing from Nissan. Some people had mentioned making CF dash caps like the ones MSA sells, Id avoid something like that. Just go for the whole shebang.

You mentioned a few mm, is that the amount of difference between 1 and 6?

I tried that with my ZX and just found it impossibly to get under the car in the first place. (I guess our curb is quite small)

Use a pipe wrench.

At lowes. Its a Cobalt.

Same thing. As Mat mentioned theyll remove the head anyways to replace the cam which will make removing the bolt easier. Also what do you mean by MSA head? Header?

Yeah Im still trying to figure something out, I went to a few hardware stores and the stands I have are about the biggest you can get from the hardware store. But I did buy a new jack that is amazing compared to my old piece of junk I had. But the problem Im having now is my car is so low that I cant put the jack strait in from the front (even though the jack is designed to be low) so I have to go in from in front of the tire and again the car is so low I cant get it under the front cross member in the front (theres about a 1/8 inch plate in the very middle of the crossmember) so I have to jack from the side and then its all unstable till I put the jack stands in.

I am in the process of getting on with hagerty and my mom put down 8k for coverage without asking me... I told here HEYLL NAH! I think its at 12k now. It was only $30 more a year, why not.

Alright. Anyways, I put it all back together so I guess now is the time to gravity bleed it. Should I just attach hose to all the bleeders (open them) and then let it sit? Do I need to put the pedal to the floor and than gravity bleed it? I guess whats the best way to make sure all the lines are full of fluid.

Alright Ive been looking at some other pictures of s30's and see that I dont have the pressure switch. The pictures Ive seen along with my chiltons show a large metal body that looks similar to the prop valve. Mine is nothing like it and looks like this. It appears that it was already just T'd off.

The booster is fine, the reaction disk was in place. I went ahead and cleaned it up and repainted and its mounted again. (looks a milllion times better) So Im still trying to figure out the brake switch part... as well as the gravity bleed. With the brake pedal in the stationary position wont the master cylinder not provide any fluid to drain by gravity into all the lines?

Alright thanks. I just pulled off the MC and booster to rebleed the MC and check the reaction disk/clean the booster. I assume I gravity bleed it once the MC is back on the car. When you gravity bleed it you dont touch the pedal at all correct? Thanks

Well the rotors and calipers are new on the back, front calipers are new also. I did bench bleed it before putting it on but maybe it got some air in there upon installation. Its worth bleeding it again. I only found that its right under the master cylinder in the engine bay. Is this the right "switch"? So how do you gravity bleed it? Thanks for all the responses.

Cool project. Just wondering why are you working on the wiring when the engine isnt even mounted yet... Also I think your gonna have a really nose heavy buggy.

Also I just started the car to see if the booster would do anything but now there is NO pressure on the pedal at all. Turn the car off and its back to how it was. Thanks

Well little background. The car is a 78 280z, last summer I disassembled the brakes and suspension for an overhaul. I put on 83 280zx rear calipers (bleeeder at the top) and SS 240sx lines which are the the right connections just longer than stock. I left the master cylinder empty so we removed the MC and found the seals bad (dried out over the last year), so I got a refurbished one today. Bench bleed it, hooked it up and then I pumped the brakes a little. Theres a little pressure on the first 2/3 of the push and then at the bottom it looses any pressure and hits the floor. I go to bleed the back, hook up the vacume hand pump and build pressure, crack the bleeder and I just get bubbles and a little bit of brake fluid. It never goes completely to fluid and the brake pedal never changes. Weary that theres not even fluid going to the back brakes I pull the line off of the caliper and then pump the brakes to see if fluid comes out. Nothing, maybe just a little dribbling. Im not sure what to do now. This doesnt seem like a reaction disk problem but who knows. Could it be the 280zx calipers? The brakes worked fine before I pulled them apart and I need to get this thing on the road and brakes are important. Thanks

Ditto on the u joints/drive shaft. I had a similar issue with a vibration, shaking noise from inside the tranny tunnel. Turned out to be the driveshaft. Cant say anything about there being oil/grease. As for not dissassembling stuff, it is quite easy to just unbolt the 4 bolts from the driveshaft to the diff and slide off the driveshaft. You can then take it to a driveline shop to have them check it.

They arent electronics as far as I know. On the temp and fan speed sliders its just a system of levers, sliders, etc inside the dash. If I were you Id just pull on it hard.