Challenger

Awesome! A cummins fixes anything. haha

Well I decided Ill probably just get Derek's setup. From what Ive seen the fact that the outer pulley is cut off wont affect it... or will it? His instructions said the only place his trigger wheel and hub touch are at the face where the bolt goes in, it doesnt touch cocentrically. Can anyone confirm this? If so Ill just go have the edge where I cut it trued up to look nice.

Cool. Thanks for the picture. Doesnt look like it needs much... when I mocked it up I thought it would take more than a half an inch but it looks like yours is just half an inch. Im going to see if I can get a t3 spacer cut out at school on the plasma cutter as well as check on longer studs and an adaptor fitting for the oil feed line. Also, I noticed the original oil drain line fits on the holset. Looks like Ill need to just cut it down and run a longer tube. That is after I rotate the housing 90 degrees.

Picked up a Hx35w for free from member "mastermechanic", thanks again Josh! Anyways, Ive been reading on how to use it on my car and had a few questions. Regarding the split housing, is it basically only beneficial with the use of a proper manifold? Is using the stock manifold just not utilizing its full potential or will there be adverse effects? The housing hits the manifold so ill just need to use a spacer correct? It appears that the top two holes on the exhaust turbo housing bolts are threaded while the bottom two are not. I drilled them out and it slides on now (without intake housing). As for the spacer will just any T3 to T3 flange work? Ill be switching over the wastegate from my stock turbo to the HX35w so I can keep the boost down where I want it. Thanks!

Well, all of the wiring is basically done so no real point in getting the full harness now. As long as it works, and it looks good as is, Ill be happy. As for the trigger wheel. I went to check on getting it turned down so it could be pressed on and was quoted less than $60. I talked to the machinist for awhile about engineering and he threw it on the lathe to make sure he could get it lined up correctly. He was really nice. Anyways I went home and was going to cut off the front pulley in order for it to take less time for him on the lathe, save a little money. Well, somehow I had remembered the pictures above with the trigger wheel right up flush against the inside pulley, so I was going to have him machine of the front lip (part I cut off) and then machine down the next lip on the outer pulley so I could slip on the trigger wheel. Well, obviously that isnt the way to do it. Its mounted all the way forward the front lip. With it flush up against the front of the inside pulley the sensor cant be mounted where its directly on top of the teeth how its supposed to be... So basically I ruined my 78 pulley.... I have my 81 pulley that I can machine the front lip down like I was supposed to but its going to be alot further forward which will make the VR sensor mount prone to flexing and moving/rubbing on the trigger wheel. Oh well, learned something. I hopefully be able to find one at a JY or on an engine in town I might pick up for the head. (JDM e88) Softopz, I might consider Derek's. Nice stuff but I think it will be fun to make it. I might even design it on solid works and see if I can make it at school...

Well, all of the wiring is basically done so no real point in getting the full harness now. As long as it works, and it looks good as is, Ill be happy. As for the trigger wheel. I went to check on getting it turned down so it could be pressed on and was quoted less than $60. I talked to the machinist for awhile about engineering and he threw it on the lathe to make sure he could get it lined up correctly. He was really nice. Anyways I went home and was going to cut off the front pulley in order for it to take less time for him on the lathe, save a little money. Well, somehow I had remembered the pictures above with the trigger wheel right up flush against the inside pulley, so I was going to have him machine of the front lip (part I cut off) and then machine down the next lip on the outer pulley so I could slip on the trigger wheel. Well, obviously that isnt the way to do it. Its mounted all the way forward the front lip. With it flush up against the front of the inside pulley the sensor cant be mounted where its directly on top of the teeth how its supposed to be... So basically I ruined my 78 pulley.... I have my 81 pulley that I can machine the front lip down like I was supposed to but its going to be alot further forward which will make the VR sensor mount prone to flexing and moving/rubbing on the trigger wheel. Oh well, learned something. I hopefully be able to find one at a JY or on an engine in town I might pick up for the head. (JDM e88) Softopz, I might consider Derek's. Nice stuff but I think it will be fun to make it. I might even design it on solid works and see if I can make it at school...

Ended up just using another switch that Ill flip as I crank the car. I figured I could use a second relay which would ground the original fuel pump relay triggered by a crank signal but now my car will be impossible to steal. haha Anyways heres the new wiring. Fuel_Pump_Wiring.bmp

Did you try contacting him earlier?

Looks great. I wish someone would make a business card you could just slip under someones wiper. Maybe a spot where you can right "my username is ___" I saw a 280z parked and I had to write a ugly note and put it under his wiper. haha

Another question... I ended up just using the stock fuel pump relay with a toggle switch ran to power all the time. So I can run my fuel pump as long as the battery is plugged in. I still want to hook up the oil pressure cut off switch which is simply a ground when their is oil pressure. How I have it now. Picture attached. So any ideas on I can incorporate the stock oil pressure sender and utilize its ground to cut power to the fuel pump in the event of lost oil pressure/crash? This would work fine with the holley unit but I dont want to spend the money for it. So is there a different datsun relay that would perform this task in a similar of manner? Ill check my ZX when I get home to see how each of them work. Thanks Fuel Pump Wiring.bmp

That was added. haha

Front lip. Doesnt go all the way up the fender but I thought this covers a large portion of the upper cross section of the tire. Might redirect the air up enough to not hit the upper part of the tire as much.

PM your address and Ill send you a set.

Header wrap and a blanket would be a little different. Id bet on the header wrap trapping alot more heat than the blanket. I removed the heat shield on my n42 intake and was going to do header wrap since Ive seen it do wonders on other cars but Im thinking about just putting the heat shield back with a turbo blanket.

Double post.

Is the clutch on your subaru stock?

Little planning. Ill have a 240z bumper and a 280z grill blocked off from the back.

200K miles! If it runs good $800 is a pretty good deal.

Great looking car. Although I cant believe the oil pan and motor mounts that were put on it..

Also I think the stock cablep pulley on the 240sx Tb is made to where the throttle opening doesnt open at a linear rate. I dont have one to look at but If I recall from when I had one the first small section of pulling the cable opens it slowly and as you pull on the cable more the faster it opens. It helps with light throttle application, the throttle wont be as on/off. This problem would be amplified with the stock linkage. Youd have to figure it out, but as an example you might have the equivalent of the original full throttle when the 60mm is opened only 3/4 of the way. Which means youve really only given yourself a shorter push on the throttle for the same power, which doesnt seem beneficial.

If you think about it, your runners and ports will only flow so much air. Just like water in a hose it will only flow as much as the highest restriction will.

Yeah if I had a nickel for everytime someone says 2.8 liter v6. haha He sounded like he knew very little about the engine but as mentioned for $350, you can scrap the car for a couple hundred and youd have a cheap engine. Pull off the head and pan and see what its got. It would have been a garunteed profit, although I probably would have just set it on the engine stand for when I blow my turbo engine. haha Only problem would have been getting it home, probably would have had to buy the truck and yank the engine out. I could scrap the car down in kennewick and haul the engine back home. (kennewicks 2 hours away from me)

So Ive been planning my modifications to the front end of my car.. Car is lowered a couple inches, fyi. Heres the plan - Enclose radiator opening, seal the airdam to the bottom of the intercooler, etc Old setup Now I have an intercooler so Ill need to redo it. - Seal the bottom edge of the air dam to the bottom of the core support. Like this... I can attach directly to my supports. Extend it up the sides a bit enough to cover my wheels -Make some sort of panel to direct air away from the front of the tires. See thread.. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86261-front-of-wheels-aero/ Its not a good picture but imagine something like this (bottom left of screen) but larger and closer to the ground. Im thinking about using some sort of plastic, imagine something like the garden edging stuff so it could actually scrape the road. It would be flexible enough to not snap off but stiff enough to actually redirect air. It would go all the way across the car in a arc, wheel to wheel with the middle further forward. - I originally planned on just having a filter direcly on my holset but im thinking of incorporating an intake duct that will scoop up cold air from under the car. If you can imagine the area behind the radiator and in front of the sway bar, thats where the duct would be. Id get alot cooler air and a little bit of a "ram" affect. Should be good for 50hp, assuming the ducting is chrome as well. haha - Lasty it comes to my primary question, regarding venting the engine bay. I relocated my battery so now both areas under the inspection lids are open. I have a vented hood already and was considering modifying my inspection lids to have a vent. Im not sure how much venting it takes to avoid air going out of the bottom of the engine bay but I suppose too much isnt bad. haha Given that, I was looking into how Id setup fender vents. There are a few factors that come into play. I dont have fender liners so the battery tray area is directly open to the fender well. If I just install a vent on each side of the engine bay where it just vents to the fender *WELL* would that be effective? With my other modifications wouldnt the fender wells likely be a lower pressure area? Second option is to actually vent from the engine bay through a closed duct and actually out the fender, completely bypass the fender well and vent air to the outside of the car. I was even thinking about the possibility of running two small fans in the ducts to help evacuate air even at low speeds. See this thread for more pics and discussion. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/61219-fender-vents/page__p__563492__hl__%2Bfender+%2Bvents__fromsearch__1#entry563492 Of course all of this will be paired with equal attention to the back although I havent considered what Ill do as much. For now its just VG, and hopefully a SDI 5.25 inch spoiler. Any comments and discussion is appreciated. I think this stuff is super cool, hopefully Ill be able to apply some of the what I learn in fluids this semester.

http://kpr.craigslist.org/cto/1884658206.html Guy put it into an s10. Apparently... "No there was almost nothing stock on the motor it was built from bottom up. Crank rods pistons heads valves turbo injectors everything" Who knows how much was true, still had the stock fuel rail so they were still barbed injectors but man to bad I was to late, it already sold! Grr! It really intrigued me that he mentioned crank. I wonder if it was a stroker or if hes just full of BS, which I wouldnt be suprised, it was on craigslist.

The TPS in the picture looks like a stock one. You need a 240sx TPS. To be honest, If your looking for performance you might as well save your money for something else. If just for the clean look of the 240sx TB, go for it.