MidnightRider

"Seems legit.."

As in the filter gasket, beermanpete's suggestion was good, I'm going to check that next.

Ok maybe I didn't put it very clear, Old motor - oil came out of ever where but not the filter Rebuild motor - Everything is perfect, no leaks. Rebuild motor after first oil change - Leaks oil at the filter, tested several filters. I tested the check ball, seems fine to me but maybe something is clogging it at certain times or at high RPMs.

It's gotta be the check ball, the spring must be jammed and that build pressure in the filter before blowing the filter gasket. Does anyone know anything about taking a check ball out of an L28? A few general tips maybe?

I don't think it's the sealing surface. One thing I noticed is the pressure went up up a little from it's normal operating range before it started dropping/leaking. So I'm not sure what that could mean..

That's the thing though, the filter I had before this ran fine with no leaks or no problems. Before the rebuild I had all kinds of oil leaks believe me, the car was a slinger.. but no problems at the filter, that was probably the only clean looking thing in the engine bay.

Is PH8A what you're running?

I just did the first oil change on my rebuilt L28E. It's a stock block with an N42 head, schnieder street cam. The car started leaking oil at the filter the first time I took it out, the seal on the oil filter wasn't flat so I figured it was a defective filter. Put on another one in the garage, spewed oil everywhere. Put on another one, from autozone, reccomended size, the surface was clean. No the old seal was not there. Yes I put a little oil on the seal. Yes I tightened it enough. Drove it again.... same problem. Not only did I miss my exams but when I fired it up it was so low on oil that the engine was literally griding metal and moaning until the oil I added circulated. Am I using the wrong size filter? The ones I got from autozone were FRAM Tough Gaurd TG8A

Just put Rota RB's on my car this weekend, 17x9 and 17x9.5 http://www.racinglab.com/rota-rb-280z.html

Update: So I just tapped them, and spent 6 hours x 4 days getting the wheel adapters off my car. These stupid aluminum spacers had the bolts in them so tight you couldn't get half of them out. The studs got in the way of the cutting wheel, and I don't have a grinder. So instead I went through 4 or 5 hole saws, 4 drill bits, and burnt out a drill to get them off. But those wheels sure do look good. Now I have new problems to come up with solutions for and then solve later! There's a small squeak in my front wheel unless I'm on the brakes, the car had to be forced into gear Saturday then worked fine, and my rear end sometimes gets bumpy/clunky when I shift. Loose drive shaft?

There's already a thread here that deals with draining them to do this.

Do the V8, if you're gonna do it go big. You can always just drive slower and pretend it's an inline 6.

That's sick, wish I could afford them.

This just keeps getting better: Edit: I also realized the typos I made now, "lugs nuts". I think it was auto-correct though.

nuff said.

I really think smaller "tuner" lugs nuts would be best, I have to order a set of lugs nuts anyway because the ones I had only fit the spacers. The RB's scratch soo easily, the lower the risk the better.

Thanks for the help, buying one sets you suggested tomorrow, probably the titeks. http://titekusa.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=76 Size 1.25 or 1.50?

THIS SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME! The car had these ancient hard-as-a-rock battery cables so I replaced them, I didn't realize they held the battery in in place. I was driving car home from school, first time driving the car around town, ready for a big Friday night date. Sent the wiring harness up in flames, right down the street from my school in front of all my classmates driving by. The car was off the street for a month and the entire wiring harness had to be removed and replaced. That thing was frieddd.

I'm not worried about my wheels getting stolen, not in the part of town I live in at least. Nobody is going to do much with 4 lug over sized wheels anyway. The lugs nuts breaking is what I'm most worried about. That would SUCK. *or boring out.

I'm running a Schneider Stage II with 180 miles on a rebuild, guess it's time to go synthetic with the first oil change.

Now that I'm paranoid of getting something that will either not fit or fail.. what should I get?

Coilovers it is. I can't wait, just gotta wrap up this film project I'm working on and then I'll have some spare cash.

That's badass, I'm jellin'. How did they fit under the flares? Suspension? Off topic but exactly what I want to run. My lugs looked identical to those only red. They're getting refunded and returned (if the seller even wants them, probably cost .50 to make). I haven't made a decision on new lug nuts yet. I'm afraid of what I'll get now, so still open to options. Maybe yours were higher quality? Mine were only $50