MidnightRider

So here is the current state of my '78 280Z: Gauges are all removed DZ push button start is installed Fuel pump runs Plugs have spark Engine cranks... but that's all it does. My car won't start. I'd appreciate any suggestions, I'm really scratching my head.

Send that question to: http://www.classicautoglassinnovations.com/contactus.php I wonder if anyone in the hotrod world would have knowledge on this?

As much time as many of us spend trying to modernize our cars, the window trim often gets overlooked. Blacking it out helps some, but the large trim around the windows is a huge stitch in the body lines of the s30. Flush fit windows are one of the small details that make a new car look sleek and modern. The bottom image is of a kit made by Classic Auto Glass Innovations who in an email said: "I am open to other models of cars, and have offered new glass lines to people that want them, if they are willing to invest in that particular line and market them.. So, if you want to generate a buzz to see who would be interested, along with interest potential, I would consider looking at this further.."

You'd probably have better luck under interior

Blacking out the chrome helps a lot, it brings the windows into the body visually and creates less of an outline around them. Especially if the car is a dark color.

I have had this problem, just kept refreshing

Make sure you're not collecting disability payments and when you're not actually disabled.

I'm watching this thread closely, you've put an engine in a car I didn't think it'd ever go in... in a 3rd of the time it took me to restore my dash, and half the time it took to rebuild my motor.

Just say the word "gun". Some guy is following me and I THINK I SAW THAT he has a gun. The cops will respond in minutes. He doesn't have a gun? Oh well, you thought you saw one. You learn these things in Memphis.

This is art.

PM sent!

That's what I plan on doing. It gets it at the same angle (which is what's important, a harness isn't going to do any good if it can whip up in the event of an accident) on an s30 so I don't see why a harness bar would be necessary on a street car.

I'm looking for pics to better understand how racing harnesses are installed in s30's. I want to use a strut bar instead of harness bar to keep the shoulder straps at the proper angle, because my car won't have a roll cage. This isn't a race car or autocross car but I still intend to run a safe set up even if it isn't the most ideal set up. By roll bar, I mean strut brace**. Can't figure out how to change the topic title.

CF heater/ac panel. Would sell well I think, anyone with CF door panels or CF anything in their interior would be interested.

It's magnetic so on top of the metal plate that has the defogger vents. I don't plan on running it onto the roof or anything unless I have issues.

Must be full. Guess we'll have to keep bumping this thread!

Bumping this thread.

I googled 280z rota rb earlier and found pics of my own car. So true.

You may not need the wider flares. I'm running 17x9/9.5 with intentions to put on regular ZG flares as soon as I finish my interior. I based my set up after this car: The difference is I'll be running coilovers, but this thread helped me out a lot when deciding what to get: http://forums.nicoclub.com/rota-rb-s-on-280z-t503159.html

They're 4" Speedhut gauges. You pick out what you want and they make it, pretty sweet deal.. but very expensive. They were exactly $495 for the set. I opted to spend the extra cash because I was able to keep my turn signal indicators, high beam indicator, and having a fuel level gauge built in solved the problem of where to put that. As for a bonus GPS speed signal makes calibration easy! When I saw they have a lifetime warranty standard I was sold knowing the nature of gauges in general. If anyone has any information on how to wire the tach up I'd appreciate it. I know Speedhut gauges have been done on s30's before but what I don't know is whether they used an aftermarket sensor or were wired up to the stock sensor somehow. The smaller gauges are 52mm Prosport Evo's: Water Temp, Volts, & Oil Pressure. They'll be wired up so that they're red in the day time, then blue at night to match the speedo and tach (which light up cobalt blue when backlit)

Not a lot to say on this write up, but I have a lot of pictures. The dash restoration was pretty straight forward, it just took me from spring break to graduation. I backed the cracks with tape, then filled them with gorilla glue. I also sealed up the smaller cracks with the clear type of gorilla glue. Next I used flexible UV activated Bondo all across the top of the dash. The UV Bondo was rubbery and not really that good so I used a better Bondo on all the little imperfections once I got the shape how I wanted it. Finally, sprayed the whole thing with some truck bed liner. I got everything I needed from NAPA. Next I'm doing a custom headliner. Expect to see more of my Z over this summer, trying to get a lot done before I go off to college. If anyone knows there I can find Rayven14 who sells the carbon fiber door pulls and fiberglass door panels at, I would really like to get those with my next paycheck.. now that I can work full time.

Are you selling any panels without speaker holes? I'd like to buy a set for use with the CF door pulls.

If you end up taking out the dash it might be worth while to restore it and ditch the dash cap, that's what I'm in the process of doing right now.

I'm doing a modernization of the interior in my 280z. Has anyone ever installed Autoloc Power Locks before? I know power/remote locks have been done on S30's before.. but I can't find any pictures of how they were installed and mounted to the door.

How did you know it needed to be rebuilt? Did it make a loud grinding noise?